This was taken from

http://d-series.org/forums/naturally-as ... sting.html

It was a great help to me so i hope it helps others here on tuner..

Im starting this thread because we just get way to many of the same threads about this part or that part. Im going to lay out basic info on what you want to start with in building your basic N/A D motor and what parts work and what dont.

Headers- Unless you go with a high end like HyTech, Bisimoto or
SMSP your going to basically going to see the same gains no matter what brand. Ebay/DC headers are fine for a basic bolt on motor but once you get in depth with your build with headwork, high compression and a big cam you will want to modify your DC style header or go with one of the high end pieces.

Exhaust- This is where alot of people screw up they use the wrong exhaust for their setup.
For low end usable power for driving around town you will want to stick with a 2in. setup. This will help your low end power and make it more usable around town and such.

For a little more mid to upper power you want to use a 2 1/4in, or if you have raised your compression or upgraded your cam you also want to use something like this size

For top end power 2.5 is the next. If you have an automatic car or want to keep any kind of mid or low range power DO NOT get an exhaust this size.

As for brands, any name brand company is a good choice. Ebay exhausts you may have fitment issues with and also the quality is usually not the same as a reputable company, really they are hit or miss. If you want something louder than an n1 style is what you want. This will give you the loudest sound and also probably the most rasp. Next would be a system that has the canister type muffler but also has a resonator that will quiet it down and take the edge off. Than comes your turbo muffler systems, they tend to be the quietest while still offering improved flow. Another option is custom made and than you can pick and choose your setup. This tends to be the most cost efficient

Air Intakes There is plenty of debate over this as to which is better. ill lay out the options and the benefits/downfalls of each
Cold Air- This is going to make the most usable power of the different air intakes. 2.5 is all that you need to do. There are no gains from anything over that. I can personally attest that it has a very decent advantage over a short ram. I gained .3 in the quarter mile switching to a Cold Air from a short ram. The downfall is the chance of hydro lock and it may take longer to heat the engine up on cold days.

Short Ram- This intake will show the most power on the dyno however as soon as the under hood temps rise, you will see a drop in power. The advantage to this intake is its price, ease of install and the fact there is no chance of hurting your engine. The "whale penis" intakes are classified as short ram also but they have a power level/curve more along the lines of the true cold air.

Ice Box style- This intake is a little different than the two above. It looks like a stock intake but almost is like a ram air. There also is the Mugen intake which is baller status but you gotta pay for it too. You also can do a DIY which ill be doing a write up on shortly

Brand wise any will do just fine really alls you pay for is the name. Bent tubing is bent tubing

Intake Manifolds- Honda makes a pretty stout intake manifold and they rarely need to be upgraded. However if you do choose to upgrade these are the options.

Stock-This is your standard option as the factory piece can support alot of power both in N/A form and boosted form. Now if you hae a non-vtec motor the best thing to do is to upgrade to a Vtec manifold from either the Z6 or the Y8 motors.

Skunk 2- This is probably the best aftermarket manifold for the money. How ever there isn't much R&D into this piece. its basically a b-series plenum with D series runners. This manifold can actually loose power over a stock one on a bolt on/stock engine, as with any aftermarket piece. Now im sure i'll get opinions on this but this is mine based on research i've done.

Edelbrock- This manifold is probably the best manifold on the market. But for N/A motors its not the best choice unless you have the engine built for it. This is more of a boosted manifold.

Blox- This basically is a Skunk2 copy. While its a decent starting place for starting, the best thing to do is to cut open the plenum and blend the runners together much like you would do on a stock modified one. A decent manifold for the money

OBX- This is a junk manifold plain and simple. Your going to have fitment issues with things and the design is very poor. The only thing this manifold is good for is making ITB's.

Modded Stock- For the money this option can't be beat. What you need to do is cut open the plenum and do some work there. Here is a link to me doing a Z6
Porting a Stock manifold


Cams This thread is for basic N/A setups so im only going to cover basic cams.
Non-VtecIf your running a B7, your first choice is the D16A6 cam obv with a D16Y7/Y8 cam gear. Next would be your re-grinds from either Exospeed SR909 or Bisi Level 1&2 to name a few. As of now the only new core cams are old Crane cams if you can find them. For the D16Y7 you are only limited to re-grinds.
VtecAgain you can go with a re-grind from exospeed SV909 or bisimoto level 1&2. However bisi is now doing fresh billet cores. There also is the Zex/Comp 59100/59300 for the z6 and 105100/105300 for the Y8 and the crower stg.1&2. All of these are good choices to use but you must build your engine around them.

Throttle Boddies For our little D motor you dont need any more than your stock TB with basic bolt ons. Now if you don wanna upgrade, only go to a B-Series 60mm, you dont need anymore than that. If you go bigger you can kill your low end power and hurt overall performance

Misc. This is for any other little things.

Msd igniton- Not wroth it. Honda OE ignition is proven to over 400hp so there is no need to waste your money on it.

*TB spacers dont work, dont bother

*NGK/OEM plug wires are really the only wires worth using, not the Knology Hotwires or crap like that

*Stock injectors are fine unless its a fully built motor with high compression and such

Cam gears dont add HP. They allow you to adjust your cam timing to get teh most power. Only get one if your dyno tuning


The most important thing you can do is a GOOD Tune, not some VAFC/Piggy back thing unless thats all you are able to do.
Any thing anyone would like added, please let me know and ill add it. Thanks for read. This basically is spoon feeding basic info that is always asked

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Soichiro Honda - "Success is 99% failure"

hmmmmmmmmmmmmm....gd stuff

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B-TORF wrote: Hint: Who was de last N/A SR King??? Honda Hoe wrote:wrong fella
u referring to keegan NO VTEC, NO PUSSI

Too Bad H series are exceptions to I/H/E for decent gains rule

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Im a noob and thanks for the info. really helpful. One Question. What about Tuning? any Recommendations?

i think he means stand alone vs piggy back computers
personally i saw a big difference when i installed the s300.....

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Handle every Stressful situation like a dog.

If you can't eat it or play with it, Pee on it and walk away!

bump

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Soichiro Honda - "Success is 99% failure"

nice info

bump.....Probably a sticky?

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Soichiro Honda - "Success is 99% failure"

bess info breeds

Msd igniton- Not wroth it. Honda OE ignition is proven to over 400hp so there is no need to waste your money on it.







how many of allyuh running aftermarket ignitions and NOT even crossing 200hp

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http://www.dls.se/en/car/index.html
http://www.iasca.com/

DLS Trinidad and IASCA Caribbean

^ stock Dizzy and Ngk blue wire FTW

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what worse a bad report or knowing the union man is the child father..... haha A$$

But what about the internal coil. Does the MSD blaster coil provide a bigger spark?

_________________
Soichiro Honda - "Success is 99% failure"

would an adjustable fuel pressure regulator be needed with a I/H/E upgrade?

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It's not leaking oil, it's sweating power!

^nope. Unless for an H maybe.
SR said it right. Real oem parts get ditched for the sake of 'moifying', when in fact the oem parts hold their own VERY well. I hooked an oem fuel pump up to a battery and dip it in a cup of kerosine. It shot it up atleast 15 feet.
How much fuel psi you really need if you didn't touch the ignition system or tune.
Open for correction though

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Coilovers + CD Playing = Jack Warner.

No required

but when the time come

DO NOT BUY the B&M regulator WASTE OF MONEY

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what worse a bad report or knowing the union man is the child father..... haha A$$

^^ explain..

_________________
Soichiro Honda - "Success is 99% failure"

the B&M is a Bling regulator .. really for Stock bling applications

the B&M is not a full regulator is a modifier for your stock regulator

for a Stock application you do not need any .. your fuel pressure is supposed to be bout 38psi

I/H/E not gonna require any raise in fuel

when you start to replace parts in the block or head then you will need it

from my personal experience with my B20

Stock everything the Stock injectors would max out at 1/2 throttle

raising the fuel pressure to 45psi did not help

when I addeded a Walbro 255 the B&M stopped regulating anything was just stuck at 45psi ... doh matter how u adjust or what spring you used in it

changed

to a AEM regulator and locked back at 38psi with 310cc injectors Max duty cycle 80% at WOT


and note

Injectors are also designed to work at a certain PSI

I had injectors locking up with to high or to low fuel pressure

BTW injector were all new and RC eng

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what worse a bad report or knowing the union man is the child father..... haha A$$

nice info guys!

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TRULY BLESSED

with a free flow intake and exhaust, wouldn't that change the fuel to air mix ratio in the engine? and shouldn't small adjustments in fuel pressure compensate for that? say, like going from 38psi to 40psi max..

i know your MAF sensor will pick up the change in air entering the engine, but would that be enough?

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It's not leaking oil, it's sweating power!

^ some may say yes

but I did that any was not required

tested with a wideband

went with

stock B16 , stock ecu

2 1/4 exhaust and Aem CAI .. no need to raise fuel

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what worse a bad report or knowing the union man is the child father..... haha A$$

^ thanks for the info!

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It's not leaking oil, it's sweating power!

thanks for the info.

just wanted to add an input kind of a noob myself I.H.E made a big difference for me i have the nology hot wires an the msd wires butt i found that the nology wires worked best got a good pull wen i put the on the car was felling more responsive than the msd changed the oil HG an changed the sparkplugs too car feels great.

question the cam on bisi site which can work for a d15z4 engine?? also piston higher compression ones??

several ways to make power from n/a although it is limited

challenge is to get more air in to the cylinder at high efficiency .some basic methods to get more air in(and out)
u can add cams , bigger valves, port and polish, which will increase VE volumetric efficiency
increase displacement
revving higher,
raising compression,
most important step is engine management to fine tune the fuel and get the most ignition timing possible from ur set up , a rolling road session will show u where needs tuning .

i do hondata or crome tuning if interested

nice information guys

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seo expert in west delhi