D15b stutter problem - PROBLEM SOLVED

[10-01]

So i jus bought a Vti hatch , the previous owner sold me the car with a stutter i was informed about the problem b4 i purchased the car .
His mechanic changed the following
Plug wires
plugs
module
coil
fuel pump
service injectors
service throttle body
adjust the valves
tranny oil
oxygen sensor
basically he was trouble shooting at the owners expense , after all those parts wher changed problem still ther
it only stutters between 2000- 3000 rpm when the car is in DRIVE , when in neutral the rpm goes up normal no stutter
His mechanic told him its the valves , the valves has to be grinned to seat and seal properly at a cost of $4500 additional to what he spent already to solve the stutter bills posted below
my opinion - the car revs normal when in neutral so its not the valves ,car doesn't smoke or burn oil engine is fairly good 134 xxx kms could it be the tranny filter causing this stutter ? after all those stuff above was changed ?
what u guys think ?

bills from the previuos owner from the said mechanic below

[hatch is best]

This is interesting

[10-01]

This is interesting

very

[hondamadness]

i am also having a similar problem, i have a d15b 3-stage vtech setup with the cvt tranny, the engine idles normally and if you accelerate in park the engine sounds really healthy but when you put it in drive and accelerate there is a noticeable reduction in power between 2000-3500rpm. i am planning to do a complete service in a couple of weeks but from the research that i have done and also from talking to fellow honda drivers who have experienced or are experiencing the same problem, my gut feeling is it's the tranny filter and oil needs changing, i am looking around for the filter so as soon as i complete the service i will let you guys know what were the results.

[red_dragon]

..................

[10-01]

i am also having a similar problem, i have a d15b 3-stage vtech setup with the cvt tranny, the engine idles normally and if you accelerate in park the engine sounds really healthy but when you put it in drive and accelerate there is a noticeable reduction in power between 2000-3500rpm. i am planning to do a complete service in a couple of weeks but from the research that i have done and also from talking to fellow honda drivers who have experienced or are experiencing the same problem, my gut feeling is it's the tranny filter and oil needs changing, i am looking around for the filter so as soon as i complete the service i will let you guys know what were the results.

i had no reduction in power , the said car did a complete service if u look at the bill they even changed the fuel fuel pump and even the coil , we put back the old coil they changed same problem and the coil was good no need for it to be changed , i checked a few places they don't have the tranny filter im going to order the filter if u need one pm me , we took the car on a run made about 180 in sports mode car pulls great / strong no loss of power ,if it was the valves not sealing ther would be a big power losss , im going to order the filter and change the oil again , but if u rev from idle straight up to 5000 rpm no stutter so im 99% sure its the tranny.

The said mechanic really sucked the life out of the previous owners pocket and the sad part is he is well known in the HONDA world and a few people well recommended him to the guy , really sad , all that money spent including the cost for the valve job ( $9979.00 ) , the owner could of bought a used d15b and cvt tranny and mayb still have change to buy a set of rims
guys be careful who you carry your car to service by

had the same problem last month

after 3500 would drive like normal again ? if Yes
remove the ECU from the stock position and remove all the jack and sung back all the pins for all the jacks.
lay the ecu on the mat and take a test drive.
If that work... reason for your problem.
Person foot mashes the harness and causes a short on the pins and ecu.
If that fails check your MAP and TPS sensors....
let me know how it goes

its not a ecu problem we swapped that out already .... if it was a short i will think u will get the stutter all the way thru the power band , MAP and TPS is good no check lights but i will check it over again to illuminate that from the non checked list , basically everything to be checked engine wise was checked

[1UZFE]

Check Fareed in Preysal for the filter. He sell original honda parts..
I changed my oil n cleaned the filter, but nex cycle im goin n get d filter new.

[red_dragon]

had the same problem last month

after 3500 would drive like normal again ? if Yes
remove the ECU from the stock position and remove all the jack and sung back all the pins for all the jacks.
lay the ecu on the mat and take a test drive.
If that work... reason for your problem.
Person foot mashes the harness and causes a short on the pins and ecu.
If that fails check your MAP and TPS sensors....
let me know how it goes

its not a ecu problem we swapped that out already .... if it was a short i will think u will get the stutter all the way thru the power band , MAP and TPS is good no check lights but i will check it over again to illuminate that from the non checked list , basically everything to be checked engine wise was checked [/quote]




Never said was a faulty ECU .

I just posted what I did to resolve a similar issue.

The check light does not come on until the part has completely failed or is not connected.

Timing correct ?
Dizzy condition ?

If you cannot solve drop in the K

[10-01]

had the same problem last month

after 3500 would drive like normal again ? if Yes
remove the ECU from the stock position and remove all the jack and sung back all the pins for all the jacks.
lay the ecu on the mat and take a test drive.
If that work... reason for your problem.
Person foot mashes the harness and causes a short on the pins and ecu.
If that fails check your MAP and TPS sensors....
let me know how it goes

its not a ecu problem we swapped that out already .... if it was a short i will think u will get the stutter all the way thru the power band , MAP and TPS is good no check lights but i will check it over again to illuminate that from the non checked list , basically everything to be checked engine wise was checked

Never said was a faulty ECU .

I just posted what I did to resolve a similar issue.

The check light does not come on until the part has completely failed or is not connected.

Timing correct ?
Dizzy condition ?

If you cannot solve drop in the K[quote]


timing good , dizzy in good condition .

K in a timing ........ we dealing with D first

[10-01]

Check Fareed in Preysal for the filter. He sell original honda parts..
I changed my oil n cleaned the filter, but nex cycle im goin n get d filter new.

yep did that already

[1UZFE]

Did d problem get fixed? How much was d filter??

[10-01]

Did d problem get fixed? How much was d filter??

na didnt carry the car to change the filter yet mayb thurs im a bit bz ATM

[1UZFE]

Scene.. Update when finished. Remember u wud need alot of cvt fluid..

[10-01]

Scene.. Update when finished. Remember u wud need alot of cvt fluid..

btw do you know the price of CVT fluid i think it retails for $88 a qrt ? because in the bills posted above the Mechanic charged $345 for 5 qrts which is $69 a qrt and i dont want to believe that they put Normal tranny fliud in the car

that makes things even worse

[10-01]

Scene.. Update when finished. Remember u wud need alot of cvt fluid..

btw do you know the price of CVT fluid i think it retails for $88 a qrt ? because in the bills posted above the Mechanic charged $345 for 5 qrts which is $69 a qrt and i dont want to believe that they put Normal tranny fliud in the car

that makes things even worse

[1UZFE]

Dat price in dat bill good. My ppl sells me it for $70 a quart. U wud need abt 10 quarts tho..

[10-01]

Problem was solved today -
went by my mechanic we first , chnaged ->

TPS -> problem still ther

MAP semsor -> problem stil ther

Distributor-> Problem Gone but wat we did was use OEM plug wires with d distributor , so when we came back from the test run we decided to use back the plug wires i had in b4 , problem start back , we took out the NEW plugs the previous mechanic installed and replaced it with the OEM wires .
NO STUTTER

AS shown in the bill above the previous mechanic changed the wires and it costed $460

so after spending all that money at the owners expense to trouble a problem , the problem was fixed with a set of used OEM plug wires for $150

Compared to $5479.00

[1UZFE]

Who is the mech? Location and number wud update d Honda mech thread..

[10-01]

Who is the mech? Location and number wud update d Honda mech thread..

which mechanic the previous owner or mines ?

[1UZFE]

the mech that fixed the problem....

[Kerrons101]

Anyone have a number for Fareed in Preysal????

[10-01]

Anyone have a number for Fareed in Preysal????

747 4202