Boost guys, where can I get this locally?

cinco · Postby **cinco** » June 2nd, 2015, 9:42 pm

Hook wrote:Same day ting or leave it and come back next week?

Call tomorrow if dey eh busy u might be able to wait for it

belalegosi · Postby **belalegosi** » June 5th, 2015, 1:20 pm

Hook wrote:Nah, that's the factory vacuum port to the a/c idle-up that I had to repair. I had no say in the design.

You're saying I should probably just use a 2.75" silicone hose instead though?

Ohhh gotcha.
I thought you were tapping in a vacuum port for something else. Do the Corollas have an external valve for the AC idle up? I've been looking into options for my cold start idle up on the fun car.

Hook wrote:I decided to go with piping. It's stronger and I figure the intake air is passing through too fast to be significantly warmed up, annnd the airbox over the ITBs is metal too and gets hella hot, so any heat soak reduction measures are moot anyway.

Correct, when the RPMs start climbing the air would be moving to fast to be noticeably heat soaked. But try sitting in traffic or any low speed driving on a really hot day and you can watch your intake temps climb. This isn't that big of a problem for most but under the right conditions its a huge pain.

X_Factor · Postby **X_Factor** » June 5th, 2015, 8:45 pm

hook, u ever thought about a material like bakelite between the itb's and the head to reduce the heat transfer onto the itbs?
lotec sells it, maybe 1/4" thickness or less should be fine

we used it to make an adapter plate for a webber carb years ago and it worked well

Postby **Hook** » June 5th, 2015, 8:57 pm

Not a concern. The 4A-GE 20Valve engine comes with that stock.

belalegosi · Postby **belalegosi** » June 6th, 2015, 3:41 am

Now more importantly, give me your itbs

Postby **Hook** » June 6th, 2015, 4:56 am

Hahahaha...newp

Postby **Hook** » June 26th, 2015, 10:35 am

So, it's done 8-)

Lemme show you how.

First, gather your materials.

You'll need:
1, 45* bend, 2.75" O.D. aluminum pipe (I could only get 3")
1, 1/4" vacuum barb
1, 3/8" vacuum barb
2, silicone couplings - one straight, one 45* (if using 3" pipe you'll need 2.75"- 3" reducer couplings)
4, pipe clamps for the pipe (and smaller ones for the vacuum barbs as deemed necessary)
Primer and paint/clear to finish as desired.

: I didn't get 2.75" pipe, so I used 3". you'll need to tap a 1/4" vacuum barb on the outside of the bend for the a/c idle-up and a 3/8" vacuum barb on the inside of the bend for the PCV system.

: Silicone couplings and clamps.

: Got two, 3/8" NPT bungs made and welded in by Abdool's Machine Shop - in Malabar, Arima.

: I didn't like the bare metal finish, so I used this primer after measuring, cutting, test-fitting, measuring again, cutting again, test-fitting again...

: Pipe-imus Primed

: This is the intended finish. I like the shimmer. I think I'm gonna do my air-box cover and spark plug cover in this to match.

: About 25mins after priming, two coats of the shimmer were applied, about 25mins apart, then two coats of satin clear, also 25mins apart.

: Installed. Now with all the time to prime and paint and clear coat, I ended up installing after dark, so excuse the bad light.

: Now, the angle is actually a tad off, and the back coupling is on a bit of a strain, even tho the intake is now completely airtight. What I should have done was order one straight coupling for the AFM side and one 45* coupling for the airbox side. I'll do that soon.

Big Z · Postby **Big Z** » June 26th, 2015, 10:55 am

Low end torque reduced now?

Postby **Hook** » June 26th, 2015, 11:30 am

Big Z wrote:Low end torque reduced now?

Not according to ye olde butt-dyno. Why would it be? It's the same length and I.D. as the corrugated factory hose.

I believe it actually works better now without a cracked up rubber intake hose. Unmetered air can seriously lean out an air-fuel mixture. And my a/c idle-up doesn't stutter anymore.