Fuse getting hot and melting.

[Sundar]

280c headlights changed to four hi/lo beam lights. Wired it so hi works on separate relay from lo. Same supply for the #30 pin. Battery to fuse, fuse to #30 on each relay. #30 to each light from the seperate relays accordingly. Problem is the fuse heating up and melting. Assistance?

[rmrunner]

too much current draw. What wire size are you using from the battery?

[trini iceman]

Double check you grounds could be little loose and causing arcing.

[Sundar]

too much current draw. What wire size are you using from the battery?

12gauge I think. Should I seperate the supply for left and right? That's how the oem had it.

[Sundar]

Double check you grounds could be little loose and causing arcing.

I'll do that as well thanks

[rmrunner]

too much current draw. What wire size are you using from the battery?

12gauge I think. Should I seperate the supply for left and right? That's how the oem had it.

Since its off the same supply, the total current for everything will be pulling from this wire. Feel the wire also that is leaving the battery is that wire getting hot also? A clamp on Multi meter would be the best instrument to verify the inrush current when the lights are switched on and in operation.

12AWG is rated for 20Amp.

In my opinion you should try using a 10AWG piece from the battery with a 30Amp fuse. Also the current rating on your relays should match the 30A. Headlights do draw alot of current. Also make sure your ground connections are on bare metal and not on painted surfaces. If all that fails, its a problem with your circuit wiring. If you can post a pic of the circuit, we may be able to assist better.

[Sundar]

Yea was supposed to purchase another multimeter.... sigh. The wire gets a little warm. Maybe it to much on one fuse. I'll use the 10 Guage for the supply. Thanks

[Sundar]

Btw any recommendations for good electrical tape. Even the 3m tape gets loose and brittle.

[Hibrydsoul]

Try not to rely on electrical tape alone. There are heat shrinks and rubber tape that are better suited for wires that are located in heated areas such as the engine bay.

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[D March Guy]

The connection in the fuse box maybe slack so take a precision flathead screwdriver and close in the gap so the fuse will fit tight, this used to happen to my brother c32 and that was the problem

[Sundar]

The connection in the fuse box maybe slack so take a precision flathead screwdriver and close in the gap so the fuse will fit tight, this used to happen to my brother c32 and that was the problem

I did over the whole light circuit except the park light. Separate two way switch to two relays. However same supply used for bright and dip. Haven't done anything on my brother's car yet. I'll update when I can.

[Sundar]

Try not to rely on electrical tape alone. There are heat shrinks and rubber tape that are better suited for wires that are located in heated areas such as the engine bay.

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Thanks I'll look for this.

[make meh care]

sundar use an inline fuse holder (the one used for music) with a 30 amp glass fuse with a 10g or 8g power wire for the input to the fuse. If that does not work try the ANL fuse holder instead. That would not melt.