beating rust/ Body job

[RBphoto]

Hi guys,
I have to do a body job on my car. Some places that got hit in the past, then got minor after bunx are starting to rust. Now I want to repaint my car, fix the rust and renew all the body rubbers. Questions:

1) I want to do a full strip to repaint (right down to shell, remove engine and thing) is it really worth it and would that help fight off corrosion for another say 10 years provided I do a full undercoat? Is there anything I can install to prevent the rust that is so prevalent in the rear fender of most nissans (or basically anywhere there is a lip where salt can accumulate)

2) Do you have to strip to bare metal or down to primer?

3) When you have to put back on components like the suspension and motor, don't you run the risk of marring the paint, with bolts and all being tightened?

4) Is it better/ cheaper to buy new doors/fenders than to bang out and paste?

5) If I am fixing my car by a place, would they charge for the chassis diagnostics? (that running about 5 gran some places, think I need my chassis pulled)

Just a few questions i hope to get some answers to. I considering Bhola's for the job and want some oppinions before I ask them to estimate the work. This is the first time I going to th ebody shop and nobody bunx me so help me out nah. Car is a U14 bluebird.

[Nick29]

If the car has never been repainted already then I wouldn't recommend stripping down to bare metal.
If the paint is allowed to dry properly (preferably in a heated paint booth) and you mix the paint in the correct ratios then bolts shouldn't be "married" to the paint.
If you can afford to replace the doors or any other panels with new ones that would be better than putting filler on the old ones.The degree of damage to the doors or panels will determine if it will be cheaper to replace them or not.You should let someone with experience determine which panels to change because some may be more difficult to fix than you think,especially on seams.
If your car has never been in any major accident then the chassis wouldn't need pulling.
Bhola's GOOD LUCK WITH THE BILL.

[cinco]

bholas???
hope u have more money than the car worth to spend in that
they do dam good work like sherriff but you pay for what u get

[hydroep]

1) I want to do a full strip to repaint (right down to shell, remove engine and thing) is it really worth it and would that help fight off corrosion for another say 10 years provided I do a full undercoat? Is there anything I can install to prevent the rust that is so prevalent in the rear fender of most nissans (or basically anywhere there is a lip where salt can accumulate)

Depends on who is doing the job. Shops would look at the age of the car and it's condition before talking about a guarantee. Most rust proofing systems are guaranteed for 3-5 years anyway.

As regards the rear fender, a good undercoat/sealer with periodic washing is your best bet IMO.

2) Do you have to strip to bare metal or down to primer?

I'd recommend bare metal since rust may have begun to form below the present coat. This can happen with aged coats that appear to be fine, but which in fact have become porous.

3) When you have to put back on components like the suspension and motor, don't you run the risk of marring the paint, with bolts and all being tightened?

Yes, so the body tech. has to be careful. They must also touch up any areas that have been damaged during the reassembly.

4) Is it better/ cheaper to buy new doors/fenders than to bang out and paste?

Depends. Sometimes it's cheaper to fix the doors. A good shop can repair a door and you'd never know the difference. Some years ago a guy did a marvelous job with the rear door on our Laser. No high tech equipment ...just pure skill. Pity that for other reasons (......) I don't go by him anymore.

5) If I am fixing my car by a place, would they charge for the chassis diagnostics? (that running about 5 gran some places, think I need my chassis pulled)

Yep they can...not sure of the price tho'.

Just a few questions i hope to get some answers to. I considering Bhola's for the job and want some oppinions before I ask them to estimate the work. This is the first time I going to th ebody shop and nobody bunx me so help me out nah. Car is a U14 bluebird.

LOL...said shop was one of the reasons I went the DIY route. Some years ago I took the Laser to them. The guy just looked at the car and said "$ 10,000.00, no guarantee."...

Told me that there was no guarantee because the car was old and the metal was "tired"....

It have some real skull men out there. Good luck.

[FugiTECH]

Im Currently working on the the Underneath of my car for myself , Scraping and sandpapering down to metal , Redoxide then Industrial Paint.

[cinco]

honestly if its a u14 bluebird
the body on the newer cars are pretty strong as they use a form of galvanised steal
it may not harm to go down to baremetal if you expect to keep the car for a while
but any spots that you see will need to be replaced dont let them filler your car excessively
remember proper preparation will cause the paint to last longer its a big difference with a paint work lasting 3 years and 10 years
if you really insist on keeping the car for 10+years
the paint job should cost you at least 10 grand

remember cheep ting no good especially where it comes to paint

[Nick29]

You might want to get those rust spots sand blasted!

[crazybalhead]

Or, you may also want to use a dremel with a wire brush attachment to remove rust and get it down to bare metal. Sandpaper is good, but the dremel is very precise and fast.

[RBphoto]

With the price of new cars, i looking to do a propper job on the car and keep it till the wheels fall off, maby 10 years again. I gonna replace front bumper (which has been plastic welded more times now than a new one is worth). The car was rear ended bad, and after a subsequent hit, some of the filler separate and is causing rust. I want to do a full comprehensive job on the body, so i guess the strip to metal is an option on certain parts. The alignment is a lil off because my left wheel caster and camber is off, and I am told I have to pull the chassis to fix that (Probably from a rub down i get from a left side overtake a while ago) The Front left side door contacts the front fender when it closes.

Another few questions for you guys:

1) I hear bhola is the best, and I willing to spend the money to get a proper job, anyone know of any other places I could/ should check?

2) What are the mechanical capabilities of these shops? Do they have the knowitall to drop your engine, suspension, interfere with your electrical and get it working back propper? Would they be able to repair any mechanical/ electrical problems if shite happens during re-assembly, or all they know about is paint and filler?

[SNIPER 3000]

If you planning to keep the car for over three years then do a body job, if not cut your lost now and used the same money and the sale of your car and get some thing original!
Cuz after three years it will start showing signs of needing a next body job.

[Sanctifier]

Car is a U14 bluebird...
Some places that got hit in the past... are starting to rust...
...I want to do a full strip to repaint (right down to shell, remove engine and thing)...
is it really worth it and would that help fight off corrosion for another say 10 years...
...Do you have to strip to bare metal or down to primer?...
...buy new doors/fenders...
... think I need my chassis pulled...
... alignment is off on left side...

is it really worth it... Sorry... but NOPE! Too much $$$... Too much damage.
I paid $13k for a custom paint job on an original rwd Lancer GSR with NO accident damage...
little body-work to do.... and almost NO rust. Shell went almost to bare metal etc. etc.
That was almost TEN years ago. IMHO you'll NEVER get any shop to give you "10-year quality"
for all that work unless you spent at least $25-30k (+ parts extra)... maybe MUCH MORE!
If you pay less, the shop owner is either a family member or YOU GOIN' TO GET PREGNANT!

IMHO sell it... buy something in MUCH better condition... and spend the extra "body & paint"
money on the "new" ride. If done correctly, that might last for 10 years.

My $0.02¢