Grounding Your Car

V2NR 3.0 · Postby **V2NR 3.0** » January 26th, 2011, 5:48 pm

^^^

http://www.amazon.com/Buddy-Club-BC04-R ... 469&sr=8-1

TrinbagoMan · Postby **TrinbagoMan** » July 19th, 2011, 12:07 pm

Is it necessary to solder the lugs to the wires, or can i just crimp it properly?

neocyst · Postby **neocyst** » July 19th, 2011, 9:11 pm

Soldering provides for a better electrical an physical connection.

Postby **Hook** » July 20th, 2011, 1:05 am

^^^ yup...90W soldering iron and you're good to go

GoS · Postby **GoS** » July 20th, 2011, 11:08 pm

where locally can u get ah grounding kit like this

Postby **Hook** » July 21st, 2011, 10:06 am

GoS wrote:where locally can u get ah grounding kit like this

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=379937&hilit=grounding

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=354624&hilit=grounding

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=330591&hilit=grounding

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=370671&hilit=grounding

fras · Postby **fras** » April 21st, 2012, 7:08 pm

Does it make a difference if ur battery is in the trunk?

X_Factor · Postby **X_Factor** » April 21st, 2012, 9:22 pm

it shouldnt, once its done properly...u know, good ground contact, correct size wire from front to back etc...

THE SYNDICATE · Postby **THE SYNDICATE** » April 22nd, 2012, 6:33 am

fras wrote:Does it make a difference if ur battery is in the trunk?

where did u ground ur battery or to what? if u don't mind me asking. i grounded mine on the bolt that holds the bumper reinforcement! is this a good spot? or do u have to use another?

fras · Postby **fras** » April 22nd, 2012, 6:36 am

The battery is still in the engine bay... But I wanna relocate to the trunk soon...

THE SYNDICATE · Postby **THE SYNDICATE** » April 22nd, 2012, 6:40 am

oh ok. if ur wheel well bolt in the middle is good,u can use it for ground.mine wasn't and i got alot of alternator whining noise. i moved it and the noise eased up a bit,but didn't go away!

jus sharing my experience,should incase u end up with a similar problem!

fras · Postby **fras** » April 22nd, 2012, 7:42 pm

thanks man

fras · Postby **fras** » April 23rd, 2012, 11:54 am

What does this audiopipe grounding box look like?
Dunno if thats the correct name, but cant seem to find a pic online

Is 4 gauge an overkill?
I see some aftermarket kits using different gauges (hks 8 gauge and nrg 12 gauge)

Is the starter to battery, a good grounding point to add/upgrade?

Ted_v2 · Postby **Ted_v2** » April 23rd, 2012, 11:24 pm

question

lets say when i rev slightly my lights get brighter
can a grounding kit help this problem?

Postby **Hook** » April 24th, 2012, 12:14 am

^^^ only if that's the cause of your problem...it may well be that your alternator is on the way out tho, but inspect your ground first for faults and/or voltage drops

3stagevtec · Postby **3stagevtec** » April 24th, 2012, 2:08 am

THE SYNDICATE wrote:
fras wrote:Does it make a difference if ur battery is in the trunk?

where did u ground ur battery or to what? if u don't mind me asking. i grounded mine on the bolt that holds the bumper reinforcement! is this a good spot? or do u have to use another?

THE SYNDICATE wrote:oh ok. if ur wheel well bolt in the middle is good,u can use it for ground.mine wasn't and i got alot of alternator whining noise. i moved it and the noise eased up a bit,but didn't go away!

jus sharing my experience,should incase u end up with a similar problem!

fras wrote:What does this audiopipe grounding box look like?
Dunno if thats the correct name, but cant seem to find a pic online

Is 4 gauge an overkill?
I see some aftermarket kits using different gauges (hks 8 gauge and nrg 12 gauge)

Is the starter to battery, a good grounding point to add/upgrade?

The true ground point in your vehicle is the alternator casing. You need to connect the alternator casing to the battery negative terminal to complete the circuit. When upgrading the grounding in your vehicle, you are basically upgrading the connection between the alternator casing and the battery negative.

The body of your vehicle acts as a large conductor and that is used to make the connection between the batt and alt, and also all the various electronics in the vehicle. Since the alternator is bolted directly to the engine, the entire engine block can now be considered the true ground.

Remember the engine is connected to the body via rubber mounts, which stop vibration (and unfortunately current flow). That is why the engine block to vehicle chassis wire connection is so important. If your battery is placed in the back, it must be grounded off to any bare metal part on the vehicle chassis.

Do not connect it to any suspension components etc that would have rubber mounts in them. Sand the paint on the body to see bare metal and make your connection there. It is VERY important you see bare metal at all connection points.

4 gauge is good for vehicles with powerful car audio / electronic systems.
8 gauge is good for everyone else.
12 gauge I will not recommend.

The 'audiopipe grounding box' will most likely be a simple distribution block, used to make connections easier. They look like these..

Most car audio shops will have these + wire + end terminals.. So you can easily DIY a grounding kit..

3stagevtec · Postby **3stagevtec** » April 24th, 2012, 2:15 am

sound boy 64 wrote:question

lets say when i rev slightly my lights get brighter
can a grounding kit help this problem?

Possibly, it depends on how bad your factory wiring is. Your engine idle rpm could also influence this. e.g. if the engine needs a 'tune up' and is idling lower than it should, the alternator will not be spinning fast enough to maintain the correct voltage.

If your idle speed if good, check the system voltage with the headlight on / off.. If it falls in the 12.xV range with the headlights on, the alt may need a service.. but as Hook said, check wiring 1st..

Ted_v2 · Postby **Ted_v2** » April 24th, 2012, 6:30 am

^ engine was a conversion sooo

when i check this morning i only seeing 2 wires grounding the engine to the body

one on the trottle body and one on the head

both around 8g

i think thats my problem

fras · Postby **fras** » April 24th, 2012, 10:29 am

Much thanks 3stagevtec

THE SYNDICATE · Postby **THE SYNDICATE** » April 24th, 2012, 6:03 pm

3stagevtec,i need some advice... can u PM me ur no.?

or call 771-6489. i'm really at a lost here and i need some help! thanks..

3stagevtec · Postby **3stagevtec** » April 25th, 2012, 2:41 am

THE SYNDICATE wrote:3stagevtec,i need some advice... can u PM me ur no.?

or call 771-6489. i'm really at a lost here and i need some help! thanks..

Now seeing this.. You can reach me at 330-6630..

3stagevtec · Postby **3stagevtec** » April 25th, 2012, 2:45 am

sound boy 64 wrote:^ engine was a conversion sooo

when i check this morning i only seeing 2 wires grounding the engine to the body

one on the trottle body and one on the head both around 8g

i think thats my problem

That's not so bad.. two runs of 8 gauge is plenty actually..

Check the points where the two wires connect to the body, make sure they are touching bare metal. Also make sure the body to battery negative connection is sound as well..

I'd recommend removing the wires, cleaning the locations, spray a lil CRC 2-26 and reconnect.

THE SYNDICATE · Postby **THE SYNDICATE** » April 26th, 2012, 4:43 pm

3stagevtec wrote:
THE SYNDICATE wrote:3stagevtec,i need some advice... can u PM me ur no.?

or call 771-6489. i'm really at a lost here and i need some help! thanks..

Now seeing this.. You can reach me at 330-6630..

thanks man... shout me up when u get a chance nah! 8-)