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God Bless the Black Top*
PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 3:49 pm 
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hey guys,

i keep busting my rear engine mount (transmission mount) and thought it was time to polyurethane the beyotch.


hope this will come as some help to noobs like me.
you can get polyurethane at laughlin and de gannes for $52 a tube (3M),
or at matura auto supplies in st. james (got this info from ninja boost).
i would've prefered the mixture, as packing the polyurethane in was hard as ass without a gun.

Image

step 1 : wash the mount rubber with some soft detergent (i.e. squeezy), to get all the dirt, dust and grime that would cause unsticking.

Image

step 2 : After i left it to dry, i used a blow dryer to get out any left over wet spots.

Image

step 3 : I used a rough edged drill bit to make the side walls and rubber bits course so that the polyurethane will adhese better. you can also use heavy sandpaper, so a drill isn't necessary.

Image

step 4 : After using the drill (or sandpaper whatever you choose) to get out all those loose bits of rubber and roughen the inside, it looked like this.

Image

step 5 : Cut out round shapes from the cardboard to cover the ends of the mount. i layered it with scotch tape (use parcel tape, much much easier) so that it wouldn't stick to the polyurethane when i pull it off.

Image

figure 1. it should look something like this when you're done


Image

figure 2. different angle


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Image

Image


step 6 : i didn't get a shot in after i packed it polyurethane, cos my hands were covered in it, so i have some reference shots here, of the mixture after being poured in the mount as well as how you should use the cardboard.

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step 7 : after packing the mount, seal both sides and leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours. this is what mine looked like. i would recommend using the duct tape instead, as it holds better and makes easier clean up.

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figure 3.

Image

don't forget to wear gloves or something for better clean up, this sheit is not coming off anytime soon.


Image

Image

FINISHED!! now go and drink a beer, you've wasted too much time on your car!


Last edited by God Bless the Black Top* on Tue Nov 15, 2005 1:47 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Polydor
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 5:20 pm 
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Great except use card board to make initial pattern

then heat in oven for 25-35 mins.....@ 275-350 F

scrape off original rubber.......


NOW USING TEMPLATE.....apply the 3M to the mount followin procedure above..


let dry and TADA........



Polydor 8)


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ninjaboost
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 6:49 pm 
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...boy your hands go be dutty for some days to come... :lol: ...you should have done the other mounts one time jed, gearbox mount is the second weakest...
...yuh cudda also ask me fuh a gun borrow...

...make sure yuh give it enough time to dry also... as the outer parts may seem dry while the inside wet like the drag strip on Sunday... :roll:


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ZORT
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 9:19 pm 
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What was the name of the 3m product? 3m window weld?


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God Bless the Black Top*
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 10:55 pm 
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ninjaboost wrote:
...boy your hands go be dutty for some days to come... :lol: ...you should have done the other mounts one time jed, gearbox mount is the second weakest...
...yuh cudda also ask me fuh a gun borrow...

...make sure yuh give it enough time to dry also... as the outer parts may seem dry while the inside wet like the drag strip on Sunday... :roll:


what is the weakest mount? not the front left :? geeeddd..... i'm leaving it for at least 36 hrs. pm me your number man, i lost it with my old cell phone.


<b>polydor</b> you heat the tube itself? would that mean all the extra would just haveta throw away?


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cdx2k1
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 11:55 pm 
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U can get some cheap disposable gloves for a buck in a pharmacy :mrgreen: What advantages to polyurethane mounts/bushings have over stock ones?


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bleedingfreak
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 7:31 am 
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^^^ Think Rotoplastic water tank material as opposed to rubber.

Lasts longer... but more squeaking... right?


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BLUE_CP9A
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 8:23 am 
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How bout a sticky for this excellent post


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bleedingfreak
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 8:28 am 
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Agreed... a really good post there fella :)

Good pics, good instructions!


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Rudman
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 8:50 am 
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Great post GBTBT, I herd of people doing this but was confused by what they meant when they said that they using the 3M product.

So I guess U will end up with a solid mount with this procedure.

Quote:
Great except use card board to make initial pattern

then heat in oven for 25-35 mins.....@ 275-350 F

scrape off original rubber.......


Polydor, I am a bit confused when U say use cardboard to make the initial pattern. U mean the gaps in the original mount, to allow for some flexing? and what U heating for 25-35min?


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Polydor
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 9:10 am 
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Sorry for the late response....

You are heating the old mount just to make taking off the original rubber a little easier......

As for the cardboard it was for the little space for some flexing .....but it's up to the DIYer ....if you are ok with the vibration.....I say full that sucker totally....but if you're looking for some more comfort then some space for flexing is necessary.....it does not have to be exact but use, say a soda plastic bottle masked to form a small oval shape.....apply the 3M as before ....and TADA.....


My mistake for not fullly explaining...
Polydor. 8)


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ninjaboost
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 9:24 am 
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3M makes two polyurethane based products with very similar properties that I have seen people use with the same results....
Auto Glass Windshield Urethane and Window Weld

...my advice is to fill it completely as I have done ....the vibration is not even noticable on my application...


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Dave
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 9:32 am 
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i have done this am still would not make a mount back from scratch with this
i would get a fairly good mount and fill the spaces ensuring that all the air bubbles are gotten out cause mount would not firm up
i used the window weld but is kinda scarce down here but the window sealant works equally well just not as rigid
keroscene and gas really helps in getting it off your hands :lol:


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Rudman
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 9:36 am 
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Thanks Polydor. O.K, so the million dollar question...... how durable are mounts made this way?


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Rudman
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 9:42 am 
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Dave wrote:
i have done this am still would not make a mount back from scratch with this


Please explain........ you would not recommend making a mount out of this 3M stuff??


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solo
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 9:43 am 
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very good thread fellas...


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Dave
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 9:47 am 
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Quote:
Please explain........ you would not recommend making a mount out of this 3M stuff??

it takes alot of r&d to make a mount from a mold and ensuring that the distance from the centre shaft to the external perimeter is maintained according to spec
how u know that u have it properly aligned and ensuring that all variables are maintained when curing?
this is what your engine is resting on and being supported by, i sorry i am very much diy inclined and this is one aspect i would never try for myself


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Slayer
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 11:13 am 
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i filled the spaces in all my mounts with the 3M windshield urethane about a year and a half ago for 2 reasons, to decrease engine movement and to extend the life of the mounts.

i'm pleased with the results so far, the increase in vibration felt or heard inside the car is negligible. good cheap mod.

i was advised that i should do all the mounts, packing only one with polyurethane will transfer more stress to the unpacked mounts, don't know if that's true but i did all anyway. one tube did all easily.


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TriniGT
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 12:13 pm 
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Good job man, keep it up. Someone sticky this.


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bleedingfreak
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 3:53 pm 
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As much as it sounds great, I am seeing Dave's point on this... but i think it's just like any other DIY modification that you put in your car - it's a chance you're taking and trusting yourself to do it right...

To each his own 8)


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assassin
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 9:53 pm 
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great info here 8)


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solo
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2005 6:23 am 
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bleedingfreak wrote:
As much as it sounds great, I am seeing Dave's point on this... but i think it's just like any other DIY modification that you put in your car - it's a chance you're taking and trusting yourself to do it right...

To each his own 8)



That's why Dave said he used mounts in good condition to do this and not busted mounts..... Makes sense...


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zodiaque
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2005 11:52 am 
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Nice project there! Is this strong enough for suspension application too? or is it too weak?


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Clerique
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2005 1:10 am 
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Oh great, my tranny mount buss on me too yes. And I was goin and order the Mount kit $300.00 US plus :shock:


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halfbreed
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 6:06 pm 
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bump for a good thread.

i thinkin of using this on my stabiliser link bars.

how effective is this on suspension parts?


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Rx
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 6:54 pm 
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great thread !!!!



excellent work with the pics and explanation :)


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TurboDrive
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 7:10 pm 
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Would the vibration be as bad as a solid mount that you get from sasco rethreads ?


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MG Man
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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2006 9:29 am 
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how does the 3M material stand up to heat? as in if the mount will be surrounded by the primaries of a race tuned stainless steel manifold?


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venum
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 1:35 pm 
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Good Info, great post Nick

how bout this

with aftermarket mounts, how about filling some of teh space with the polyurethane and leaving some space to allow flex

this would result in a strenghtened mount that still allows some flex

after all the manufacturer designed the engine to flex onteh mount to reduct vibration for a reason


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gt4tified
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 3:02 pm 
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venum.....yuh doh need no room to flex when yuh runnin Copper clutch meng! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :twisted:


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