my car care tips and info

[Anil_Sooknanan]

well it may not be true but from what i think this is what i have to offer .
dealing with cars are simple all you have to do is understand the basic stuff and your brain should do the rest

i know some tuners might not agree with me so pls feel free to do so these things i'm saying is from research and doing ah lil thing

please fell free to add your ideas too
1) thermostart - some say take it out some say leave it it's their for a reason ( reach and keep opperating temperture lever to working condition) from what i know
1 after a long period of time it sticks and stops water flow
2 if you have a leak it makes it easier to overheat and does it faster

i only take it off 4 cylinder cars not all 6 can work without it such as some of the toyota , nissan engines they never reach operating temperture because they use clutch fans so they are always being cooled

oil leaks ....
normally comes from a faulty gasket or seal or bent part
start with the front and back crank shaft seal, rocker cover ,slump pan, oil filter, drain screw, alternator (deisel), rings
and let me tell you all some thing oil treatment is crap


some response from tuners on that

[Dragsta]

^^Agree...but everyone has their own Opinion

Like Some oil treatments are proven to work, but if u say Fuel treatments is Crap, i will Agree with u

[Anil_Sooknanan]

oil treatment does not really make you engine lubrication better so tell all them foolish mechanics out their do do this thing by guest and play crack shot because oil treatment only makes the oil thicker if thats the case just use thicker oil lets all they does tell yuh is that it does make the engine more quiet but they are fools what you have to do is look at from a molecule perspective smaller molecules mean thinner oil ( when your oil gets thin means the molecules have broken to smaller particles) so thicker oil means bigger particles this is why a multigrade engine oil is best to reduce drag such as 20w 50 engine oils the molecule expand with temperture meaning the viscosity is 20 when thin and 50 when hot

so what does that say........ well if you add treatments all it does is thicken the oil as you can see it's like glue and it's just defeating the reason for using multigrade oil so just imagine when the temperture gets hot the oil will get 75% thicker know how much stress that is on your engine ..... well better yuh put gear oil in yuh engine (understand my point)

and to go with it when you buy oil again look at the lable it says SAE on it which stands for ( Standard of Automotive Engineering ) which says that what the oil has in it as it is , is what they engineered for everyday cars and if treatments were required they would have added it to the oil before they approved it


so don't be fooled the next oil change

[Scoop]

good info

[Anil_Sooknanan]

a next thing is that never keep your foot on the gas when starting on mornings

[evokiller]

y??

[Anil_Sooknanan]

well all the oil is at the bottom of the slup an and the pump does not pass it trough the engine fast as you start so the bearings do not get oil in time and the bearing spins let it idle first but if your car needs to be started so take your foot off as soon as it starts this happen to my friend yesterday

[evokiller]

or okies thanx 4 the info...lol i wulda never though bout dat haha

[Anil_Sooknanan]

how about your radiator cover did you know it has a pressure level on it? if you buy the wrong cover you could be in a lil trouble

[Anil_Sooknanan]

and the normal charging rate of an alternator is 13.5 to 14.3

[JJ16]

hmm wha anil uz ah boss..all very true info with everyting u say i really must agree with u..and yea some ppl do believe its gud when u starting up your car that u rev it hard...well they wud learn the hard way.

[Anil_Sooknanan]

hey thanks but i'm no professional just like some people here.

[Anil_Sooknanan]

when buying a battery always buy a battery 500 cranking amps and above because the electrical system uses a lot of current and it also release some stress of your alternator
this is my theory .....
think of two men one small and one big & strong
tell both of them pull a 200kg load (this is battery starting car)
yes they both will pull it but the small man hs to put 3/4 of his energy
while the big man only use a 1/4 of his strength
get the point???

another thing is this "alternator" a small man will have to eat plenty to always have energy (charging) while the big man will eat once and he belly so big the food will stay long in he belly while the small man have to eat more often

meaning with a small battery your alternator has to always be working hard so it may need servicing or replacing more often

[Anil_Sooknanan]

how about wiring your alternator yourself anyone wanna know about this also starters

[Anil_Sooknanan]

wiring your alternator for yourself is easy nissan normaly use two diffent brand of alternators hitachi and mitsibu and they both use the same connection S,L,+B,G

S = the sense wire that tells the voltage regulator the voltage of the battery so it boost or cuts the feild. it is connected to a fuse then directly to the +ve post of the battery

L= we know it as the light wire , it tells you if the alternator is functioning is is necessary because it triggers the regulator on without it the generating process will not start ..this is connected to the lamp you see in you dash

+B = the output that goes directly to the +ve Post of the battery

G = ground that goes drectly to the chassis ground sometime it works without this wire since the alternator is grounded already

the other type of alternator is the nippon denso which comes in the toyota, honda, suz ect there is a 3 pin connector lamp, sense, and ignition

[NiSmO-R]

well all the oil is at the bottom of the slup an and the pump does not pass it trough the engine fast as you start so the bearings do not get oil in time and the bearing spins let it idle first but if your car needs to be started so take your foot off as soon as it starts this happen to my friend yesterday

In addition to not revving when cold starting you shouldn't shift close to the redline until the engine has reached optimal operating temperature on my engine its just below half. Some say this is overkill and some say it doesn't matter on a low output engine but I say anything that prolongs engine life is a good thing.
On the old BMW M5 the one before the current model on the tach there are red lights to tell you up to where you can shift because the engine hasn't warmed as yet how cool is that?????

[NiSmO-R]

A word on octane boosters tested on my old SR18DE motor

I have used the NOS and the Super Octane Boost +104 Black Bottle
Now before sellers start to attack me I'm just relaying my experience
I have used the NOS street formula (Blue bottle) and seen my quartermile drop from 18.3x and 18.4x to 18.192 - 18.220. The 104 in addtion to making no difference in quartermile time completely screwed up my fuel gauge and the 104's selling point is that it doesn't have MHT in it which is supposed to mess up your gauge. The NOS does have MHT in it and it did not affect my gauge whatsoever. I tried to be as scientific as possible in my tests i.e did runs at relatively same atmospheric, conditions did the comparison over a set of 4 runs each time as well as did the exact same tune up the day before drags and made no other mods to the car, and both time mixed with a half tank of premium gas from the same gas station.
I am in appreciation that a million and 1 factors could have played into the 104 not lowering my quartermile time other than it didn't do anything but as I said before this isn't an attack on a product I'm just stating my experience for other Nissan owners out there.

[MagikDragon]

oil treatment does not really make you engine lubrication better so tell all them foolish mechanics out their do do this thing by guest and play crack shot because oil treatment only makes the oil thicker if thats the case just use thicker oil lets all they does tell yuh is that it does make the engine more quiet but they are fools what you have to do is look at from a molecule perspective smaller molecules mean thinner oil ( when your oil gets thin means the molecules have broken to smaller particles) so thicker oil means bigger particles this is why a multigrade engine oil is best to reduce drag such as 20w 50 engine oils the molecule expand with temperture meaning the viscosity is 20 when thin and 50 when hot

so what does that say........ well if you add treatments all it does is thicken the oil as you can see it's like glue and it's just defeating the reason for using multigrade oil so just imagine when the temperture gets hot the oil will get 75% thicker know how much stress that is on your engine ..... well better yuh put gear oil in yuh engine (understand my point)

and to go with it when you buy oil again look at the lable it says SAE on it which stands for ( Standard of Automotive Engineering ) which says that what the oil has in it as it is , is what they engineered for everyday cars and if treatments were required they would have added it to the oil before they approved it


so don't be fooled the next oil change

i find it hard to agree totally with this statement....not all oil treatment just thicken the oil.....i personally have ran tests using a friction machine on many oils with oil treatment some years ago and found that the higher quality oil treatments really do create less friction in the engine and hence less wear and tear , better performance ..etc.
the machine was two spinning bearings locked together by a torque wrench...the bearings were lubricated with the test oil or oil treatment then...as more torque was applied, the bearings squeezed together, friction inceased and caused the bearings to stop spinning and lock up..we looked at amount of torque required to lock the bearings..these tests were conducted to test some products as we were lookin to become a dealer for one of the oil treatments....i can't remember which ones failed...but Prolong and Zmax were the best at the time...oh an regular engine oil by itself isnt so great it locks up really fast......i think is because the producers of engine oils look to keep costs down....but i never got a chance to test those expensive engine oils only regular stuff like castrol,np,shell,quaker state.etc...,

[Anil_Sooknanan]

thank you for the input but as i said not all these things i've done by experiment it's all about research and i agree that gas treatment works by changing the octane level and the oil tratment thing not all of them works like you said magikdragon but i'm not saying your wrong what i'm trying to do is make people aware what research said about "most" oil tratment do ok but thanks bro's for the input keep it comming

[MagikDragon]

no scene i understand your point....men should do a little research b4 buying in...

[Anil_Sooknanan]

using silicone on the manifold before the O2 senser is a no no

[Anil_Sooknanan]

this is because the O2 sensor is the nose of the ECU and the chemical in the silicon damages the sensor so when buying silicon ask for the non RTV type silicon or O2 sensor safe silicon also raw oil and gas damages the sensor

[Anil_Sooknanan]

never take off your battery terminal while the car is running

[wagonrunner]

never take off your battery terminal while the car is running

elaborate please.
i've seen persons not jump-start cars, but swap battery, start, disconnect battery, reconnect old "dead?" battery, and drive off.

[Anil_Sooknanan]

yea but what they don't know is the risk they just took ...
damage to the alternator , ecu, and othe electronic circuit in the car
what happens is that the alternator senses how much voltage is present in the battery and the moment yuh take off the pole the alternater senses a voltage drop sending the voltage pass 14 v

[Anil_Sooknanan]

causing a high voltage surge which can blow the alternator regulator, fry the diodes, and f**k up your ECU and other electronics that work with 12 +/- 2v this happens so quick you don't even know if your ah costom doing this you might realize your changing or repairing your alternator more than normal the trick is to use use a jumper and 3 batterys hook the jumper to a load battery and to the terminals ( the battery is in the car ) then take it out and replace it with the other so the alternator always senses a load ............... any way doing the way everyone does it does work but my info is just the correct way to do it

[wagonrunner]

^^
wasnt' disagreeing with you, just discussing common 280c practice.
next question, in a carbuerratted car........................apart from alternator. what other electronics are at risk?

[Anil_Sooknanan]

well bro i forgot to say that this is mailly for internal regulator alternators but in cab modles the deck is the only thing i can think of right now you see those cars hardly use electronics compare to the EFI cars today most of the things here can be proven by doing research online

[DJ Nexxus]

bump

[Anil_Sooknanan]

an alternator thats over charging also under charging could cause a lot of trouble

overcharging - mainly happens if the regulator malfunction or one of the feild coil shorts .. with a high voltage your Ecu is at risk also all electronic parts in the car and engine also transmission