my car care tips and info

Anil_Sooknanan · Postby **Anil_Sooknanan** » September 13th, 2009, 4:02 pm

i think i sent you a Pm saying to bring the car i'll check it....

Anil_Sooknanan · Postby **Anil_Sooknanan** » November 3rd, 2009, 12:02 am

ole thread that needs a lot of correction as time went by and i learn new stuff.

V2NR 3.0 · Postby **V2NR 3.0** » November 3rd, 2009, 1:17 pm

Anil_Sooknanan wrote:Fellas i trying to upload wiring diagrams for the SR20DET and RB20DET & 25 , turbo timers and other stuff but i have the doc in microsoft office doc and it not loading onto tuner can any one tell me how to do it?

Open the document. While it is opened, hit ctrl&printscreen together. Open paint program and save it as a jpeg file and it becomes a picture. Follow normal procedures after that

:arrow:

monstas23 · Postby **monstas23** » November 6th, 2009, 12:52 am

cool info !!!

stone · Postby **stone** » January 20th, 2010, 1:51 am

i have a y10 wagon and when i start it sounds like i am grating iron i serviced the starter but i still get the same get problem

Anil_Sooknanan · Postby **Anil_Sooknanan** » January 21st, 2010, 12:29 am

the ring gear on the flex plate maybe damage.

Anil_Sooknanan · Postby **Anil_Sooknanan** » January 21st, 2010, 12:31 am

not mine but copies from nissanclub.com

Transmission troubleshooting
Move the selector lever to the "P" position, and warm up the engine to normal operating temperature. Turn the car off and wait at least five seconds. Turn the ignition switch on (with out starting the car.) Your O/D light should come on. If it does continue with the steps below. If it does not, you have a problem with the TCU power or ground circuits.

Be sure to follow these steps EXACTLY as listed below or you will have to start all over.

1) Turn ignition switch to acc position.
2) Move selector lever from "P" to "D"
3) Turn ignition switch to the on position (do not start car)
4) Depress and hold the overdrive control switch in the "off" position (O/D light will come on)

(If after this step your O/D light does not come on, you have a problem with your Park/Neutral Position (PNP), Overdrive Control, or Throttle Position Switch (TPS) circuit.)

5) Turn ignition switch to off position
6) Turn ignition switch to on position (do not start car)
7) Release the overdrive control switch (O/D light will be off)

Wait two seconds
9) Move selector lever to "2" position
10) Depress and release the overdrive control switch (O/D light will be on)
11) Depress and hold the overdrive control switch (O/D light will be off)
12) Move selector lever to the "1" position
13) Release overdrive control switch
14) Depress and release the overdrive control switch (O/D light will be on)
15) Depress and release the overdrive control switch again (O/D light will be off)
16) Depress and hold the overdrive control switch (O/D light will be on)
17) Depress accelerator pedal fully and release
18) Release the overdrive control switch (O/D light will begin to flash)

Now the light should flash ten times. Below is a list of trouble codes for the TCU.

Ten flashes of equal length=Everything OK

First flash longer than the others=Vehicle Speed Sensor(Revolution Sensor)

Second flash longer than the others=Vehicle Speed Sensor Meter

Third flash longer than the others=Throttle Position Sensor

Fourth flash longer than the others=Shift Solenoid Valve A

Fifth flash longer than the others=Shift Solenoid Valve B

Sixth flash longer than the others=Overrun Clutch Solenoid Valve

Seventh flash longer than the others=Torque Converter Clucth Solenoid Valve

Eight flash longer than the others=Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor And TCM Power Source

Ninth flash longer than the others=Engine Speed Signal

Tenth flash longer than the others=Line Pressure Solenoid Valve

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/f-q-19 ... codes.html

stone · Postby **stone** » January 21st, 2010, 9:38 am

at this the o/d light don't work

Anil_Sooknanan · Postby **Anil_Sooknanan** » January 21st, 2010, 11:06 pm

ivar · Postby **ivar** » February 2nd, 2010, 7:47 pm

extremely great info. anil i wanna do a clean up of injectors an trottle body. oh an also i gettin sum oil on one of the plug, i was told its the plug gasket, i wanna change dat to. i recently change oil, oil filter, plugs, air filter and fuel filter, MY QUESTION IS-- will i need to change the spark plugs again after you clean the injectors? if so, can i jus put in the old ones(which are still in good condition) for u to clean the injectors an den put back the current ones? cuz a partner told me anytime injectors are cleaned i will hav to change plugs? could u pm me your phone no. so i can call to set up an appointment.

Anil_Sooknanan · Postby **Anil_Sooknanan** » February 2nd, 2010, 10:20 pm

What type of engine it have? if it's the QG the seals cannot change. yes the plugs can be swapped to do the clean. the correct procedure is to change the oil too. my price is $350 to do a full service = oil/filter change, injector cleaning, MAF, Throttle body cleaning, fuel pump strainer cleaning ,plugs

ivar · Postby **ivar** » February 3rd, 2010, 8:46 pm

its an sr20de. oh an i find i does get a low idle wen it on drive. can u sought dat out to? wen is a good time for u? i hav a day off dis saturday if dats good.

Anil_Sooknanan · Postby **Anil_Sooknanan** » February 3rd, 2010, 10:28 pm

yea saturday :lol:

call first for an appointment

ivar · Postby **ivar** » February 4th, 2010, 9:53 am

ok cool,

ivar · Postby **ivar** » February 4th, 2010, 12:36 pm

oh, anil maybe u can help me find this part. u kno the bulb holder for the low beam in the p11 dual headlights? i lookin all over for one. if yuh kno anywhere i cud get dat it wud be highly appreciated..........thanks.

Anil_Sooknanan · Postby **Anil_Sooknanan** » February 9th, 2010, 11:36 pm

i have that man! i changed out my head lights and installed the OEM HID's

ivar · Postby **ivar** » February 10th, 2010, 3:45 pm

anil wen can i get the bulb holder? oh an can u install my lights an u will nedd to wire dem up?

Anil_Sooknanan · Postby **Anil_Sooknanan** » February 10th, 2010, 6:06 pm

if you have the H4 set up no problem, i'll install and wire

ivar · Postby **ivar** » February 10th, 2010, 6:28 pm

idk wat kinda set up it is. rite now de car hav e de original frosted headlights, i bought the crystal dual headlights used from on tuner. i believe the low beam on th crystal is h3.

Anil_Sooknanan · Postby **Anil_Sooknanan** » February 13th, 2010, 8:53 pm

yup the frosted ones are H4.

Damien · Postby **Damien** » February 13th, 2010, 9:23 pm

good info

Anil_Sooknanan · Postby **Anil_Sooknanan** » February 14th, 2010, 12:16 pm

Damien, Thanks man! how the van woking :?:

Anil_Sooknanan · Postby **Anil_Sooknanan** » April 24th, 2010, 8:33 pm

We it seems everyone seems to be afraid of giving or receiving a "jump start". My theory is that's it totally safe once it's done this way.( i could be wrong but it works every time) It goes like this:
1. Connect the jumper cables as usual positive to positive and negative to negative in both cars ( i know some will say negative to ground but note negative is connected to ground)
2. Start the good working car and let it run for about 5 min @ 3000+ RPM. In doing this you are recharging the battery of the other car therefore very little stress is place on the running car.

3. Rev the car to 5000+ RPM while the other person tries to start the other car :wink:

Works for me

Licensed to Walk! · Postby **Licensed to Walk!** » April 25th, 2010, 3:27 pm

Anil_Sooknanan wrote:We it seems everyone seems to be afraid of giving or receiving a "jump start". My theory is that's it totally safe once it's done this way.( i could be wrong but it works every time) It goes like this:
1. Connect the jumper cables as usual positive to positive and negative to negative in both cars ( i know some will say negative to ground but note negative is connected to ground)
2. Start the good working car and let it run for about 5 min @ 3000+ RPM. In doing this you are recharging the battery of the other car therefore very little stress is place on the running car.

3. Rev the car to 5000+ RPM while the other person tries to start the other car

Works for me

Same method i use.

Keep the info coming.

xeon · Postby **xeon** » April 29th, 2010, 2:04 pm

Anil_Sooknanan wrote:We it seems everyone seems to be afraid of giving or receiving a "jump start". My theory is that's it totally safe once it's done this way.( i could be wrong but it works every time) It goes like this:
1. Connect the jumper cables as usual positive to positive and negative to negative in both cars ( i know some will say negative to ground but note negative is connected to ground)
2. Start the good working car and let it run for about 5 min @ 3000+ RPM. In doing this you are recharging the battery of the other car therefore very little stress is place on the running car.

3. Rev the car to 5000+ RPM while the other person tries to start the other car

Works for me

i hear some ppl say this damages the ECU, is this tru? i saw a fella who was afraid of doing this he end up removing his batt & lend the other driver to start and then swap back.