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black start
PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 10:27 pm 
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X_Factor wrote:
what upgrades are there for the b13 with stock rear discs?
is it P11 rear rotors & calipers?
redrill rotors to 4x114?


b13 rare disc brakes real hard dan...not much compatibility at all....as far as i know who is best u invest in some good rotrs and some good pads.....i know the n14 setup works on the b13 rare, but i dont know if it counts as an upgrade and even if, its very hard to get....


is best as i say, to use some good brakes pads and get some aftermarket rotors. and while you're at it upgrade the front with some ad18v or ad22vf so everything will be gud....oh and well obviously the mc...

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yakuza
PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 10:46 pm 
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X_Factor wrote:
what upgrades are there for the b13 with stock rear discs?
is it P11 rear rotors & calipers?
redrill rotors to 4x114?

U13/P10 rear rotors (10") and calipers are an ideal upgrade for the B13, would have to re-drill rotors to 4X100 though.

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black start
PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 11:13 pm 
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^u13/p10 calipers are a direct bolt on to the b13 rear spindles?

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black start
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 2:48 pm 
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http://www.sr20-forum.com/information-l ... ead-2.html

lots and lots of great info on the thread above

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kriticalkase
PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 10:34 pm 
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i need some advice here.

I have a stock b15 and ever since I got the car, the brakes feel spongy. I owned a couple b15/almera before so I know how the brakes feel.

1) I polish the front rotors and installed wagner disc pads.
2) Installed new brake shoes and adjusted same.

After I did this I did not get the results I expected.
The car would stop but I think I have to press right down on the pedal.

I installed a f/used master cyclinder and bled the brakes.
Performance have inproved but still think that the pedal has to be pressed down too much to stop the car.

The only thing I am seeing is that the drums has some linings/markings on them. Could this be the reason???

Note, I am not losing any fluids, no leaks.

What next can I do?

dennis
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black start
PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 11:44 pm 
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^Ever thought of upgrading the front brakes and putting in a bigger master cylinder? The p11 te-v setup is a direct bolt up and is 11'' inches in diameter and you can use a 15/16'' master cylinder and that should work very good. Also, it wouldn't hurt to change the seals on your rear drum cylinders and replacing the drums themselves.

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X_Factor
PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 12:27 am 
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did u bleed properly?

"using a piece of tubing from the bleeder nippl into a bottle filled with a little fluid etc"

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kriticalkase
PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 9:47 pm 
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Thanks for the advice.
I actually bled the brakes twice in 2 weeks.

Out of curiousity I googled spongy brakes and they recommended that brakes be bled usind "using a piece of tubing from the bleeder nippl into a bottle filled with a little fluid etc" as stated by X Factor.

I know for sure that a piece of tubing was not used. does this mean that air can re enter the system?
My next option is to change the drums and see if this would help.

How would I know if my booster is defective?


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kriticalkase
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 11:10 pm 
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Guys,
upon further inspection it was discovered that the left side front ABS sensor is missing. Would this contribute to my braking problems? I also plan on changing the rear drums hoping to get an improvement in my brakes.


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stefan
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 9:59 pm 
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If i change the stock MC on my b11 to a B14 without changing anything else would it improve braking?


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kriticalkase
PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 11:00 pm 
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Finally!!!

The mech found a slight leak on the line that is attached to the master cyclinder & tightened same. I changed the drums & bleed as directed and I am finally satisfied with the brake performance.


thanks for all the advice.


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yakuza
PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 6:08 am 
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stefan wrote:
If i change the stock MC on my b11 to a B14 without changing anything else would it improve braking?

Probably not, and you may need an increased pedal effort because you now have a larger MC and same stock booster pushing more fluid to the same small caliper.

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Yusuf
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:05 pm 
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Any advice on upgrades for a C34 braking set-up???


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yakuza
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 7:06 pm 
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Yusuf wrote:
Any advice on upgrades for a C34 braking set-up???


Nissan GT-R 4 pot pistons calipers and rotors, rotors will have to be re-drilled.

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Ga15turbo
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:27 pm 
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hey did a brake upgrade but rite now seeing some problems. Problem was getting a 4 line non-abs master cylinder 15/16 bore for my b14. So did a conversion using a R33 non abs 3 line bm44 master cylinder an keep getting the same problem pedal going to d ground fed up blead the lines no sign of leak doh know what to do again ....here is the set up AD22VF in front and P11 rear disc at the back, R33 master cylinder with P11 booster.. What to do again


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turboconch2
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 6:34 am 
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Yakuza

I am gonna put a ga16 vtc in a b11, and looking to do some brake upgrades. so far i have stock brakes running with a ga15 carb and gearbox and it hold well. What some one told me from work is to get the b14 abs master cylinder and booster and swap with my stock one.
I'm wondering would it be an overkill if I install the b15 spindles with p11 rotors and calipers, this advice was given to me in another post in auto tech stuff. What challenges would i face with this concerning the ball joint, steering ends, shock and cv joint with this setup?

Please advise.

Quote:
I'm not sure if the B14 ABS MC will work on the B11, the ABS MC has only 2 outlets, how many does the B11 have?

P11 11" rotors and calipers will be fine.


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NR8
PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 8:54 am 
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What bolt for bolt rotor disc and caliper upgrades can done to a B12 so that I can reuse my 15" rims?
I did a qg conversion and there is now some more speed than the original carb engine. Not comfortable with the reduced braking power at all.
I've already installed the B13 brake booster and master cylinder.

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NR8
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 1:15 am 
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NR8 wrote:
What bolt for bolt rotor disc and caliper upgrades can done to a B12 so that I can reuse my 15" rims?
I did a qg conversion and there is now some more speed than the original carb engine. Not comfortable with the reduced braking power at all.
I've already installed the B13 brake booster and master cylinder.

any advice guys :?:

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black start
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 1:27 am 
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^you can use the b13 beast ad18v front setup. Its a direct bolt on upgrade for the b12,b13,b14,y10 etc. The rotors are vented 9.75''x18mm and decent sized single piston calipers. The rotors are the same thickness as the b14 but are about 1/4'' bigger in diameter.

If you can't find this setup just used the b14 22v setup or if you wish you can spaw to complete y11 ad (not wingroad eh) front spindles. The spindles are a direct bolt on and have decent size brakes on front.

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NR8
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 1:52 am 
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how can one tell the difference between the regular and the beast ad18v rotors and calipers though?

i'm guessing the y11 ad rotors and calipers by themselves would work too (without complete spindle)?

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X_Factor
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 2:05 am 
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^im not sure of ur question
but the beast model has the "ad18V" stamped on the top of the caliper
very easy to identify

there are two different types of AD18's as well and they carry different disc pads

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black start
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 2:06 am 
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^The y11 ad calipers will not work on the b12/13/14 etc spindles as the caliper bolting spacing are different. The y11 setup carries the same caliper bolting spacing as the b15/p11/u13/u14 etc (Don't mistake caliper bolting distance for wheel bolt pattern) but is 4x100 bolt pattern (same as b12/13/14 etc). The b15/p11/u13/u14 etc are all 4x114.3 bp and so the rotors won't work.

If you wish to get any of the b15/p11/u13/u14 setup to work on the y11 ad spindles you must redrilled the rotors to the 4x200 pcd.


So basically, to use the y11 ad setup you must swap the entire spindle onto your car but it works bolt for bolt.

For pics of the ad18v setup please follow the link below.

Image

Image

Image

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NR8
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 2:19 am 
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Thanks. I was asking how to tell the difference between the normal B13 and beast B13 setup.

Another question.. Do all the B14s use the same b14 22v setup, or are there different types of these as well like X_Factor mentioned about the different types of ad18? If there are different types, can all work on the B12

I just want to get all the correct details now so I'll know exactly what to look for when I go to buy. In case I can't find the ad18v, I would probably buy the B14 setup as that should be easy to get.

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black start
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 11:38 am 
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I supposed to have a set of ad18v somewhere. Pm me when you ready to get a set.

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NR8
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 2:49 pm 
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^^^ cool scene. I might go price the different setups this saturday. my brake pads need changing soon so i thinking about doing the swap now, instead of buying new pads and then have to buy again for the upgrade.

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yakuza
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 5:25 pm 
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AD22VF and done d talk.

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NR8
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 8:21 pm 
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^^^ about how much for AD22VF rotors and calipers?

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black start
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 11:31 pm 
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viewtopic.php?f=6&t=395244&hilit=ad18v

NR8, that guy has a set of ad22vf if you want to go that way. The ad22vf works really really good as well (much better than the other options) and is also a direct bolt on in your spindles. It is also a bit more difficult to find in he bamboo so your could probably check around and then give the guy a call and weigh your option.

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D'Boss
PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 9:43 pm 
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B15 4 wheel drive handbrakes cable ,code anyone source that ,Mine burst


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k.c.151
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 12:05 am 
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good stuff... keep up d good info...

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