So solodex events start this month... a driving school. For those of you competing or even participating this year, there will be driving schools. This is an opportunity for more experience drivers to pass on the knowledge of how to drive, how to handle your car and yourself.


Do you understand the fundamentals of getting a car around the course ?

Braking Zones
Apex(es)
Trail braking
Oversteer
Understeer

Do you understand the terms above ?

How can you go easier on my tires and still win ?

What do you want to learn ?

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I'm not a Guru... I just know more than you.

The easiest way to win an argument with a woman... is to stop talking.

I think I have an ok'ish ability of grip/slip with the wagon, and a few other FWD cars I've used.
I would like to be more adept and confident / comfortable at it, with the RWD car, and possibly AWD in time.

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if you were trying to be vague.... you hit the target.

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I'm not a Guru... I just know more than you.

The easiest way to win an argument with a woman... is to stop talking.

how to do scandinavian flicks like john powel

U want Pentti Airikkala's notes? I got some

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Peugeot 206SW for sale
viewtopic.php?f=55&t=479201

that was vague? *goes off to read some more so i can better explain myself to the drivers*

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I think wagonrunner was basically saying that while he has a very good skill level regarding making the most of a front wheel drive car, he is sure there is room for improvement, given the right instructor.
He is also keen on developing his skills with handling a RWD car, perhaps modifying / adapting his skills with Front drive, since he has already had experience with tail out driving with aforementioned front drive cars.......and perhaps as time goes on, he would also like to take the next step, and learn how to make the most of AWD

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Peugeot 206SW for sale
viewtopic.php?f=55&t=479201

well the term "grip / slip" as i've seen it used, is getting the car to rotate (slip), while still putting down the power to accelerate (grip).
My usual driving nuance with FWD is three wheels slipping (as in a skid), with the driving wheel (no-lsd) pulling through turns.
I'm not yet at that level with the RWD (cherokee, still not much time in the laurel), to feel fully comfortable to do that EVERY time.

It's different with the drving wheel pushing, while that's the point that's sliding to turn. As acceleration occurs, the rotation changes. Drift?

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That's what I meant runner. Of course I'm not the teacher so the intention is to get as many queries out in the open before the first event so that the instructors might have a heads up as to what people at varying skill levels will want to know about.

I personally want to get feedback on what are the better/faster lines in differing situations as oftentimes it seems that although my control of the car is there, my line seems to force me to overdrive to compensate... resulting in loss of precious seconds.

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I'm not a Guru... I just know more than you.

The easiest way to win an argument with a woman... is to stop talking.

Slip= too fast. Dais all.

If you really believe time spent travelling in the desired direction is slower than braking than accelerating to the previous method's exit speed................. ok.
It's not a long exaggerated slide. just about the duration of the corner's apex really.
so think chained tight corners. you really gonna brake / accelerate for each one? or proceed at the speed where you still have just enough manoeuvrability?

I'd say if you're not slipping, you're going too slow.

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How about a complex section of cones to navigate? Might help get people accustomed to the cone convention as well as tuning up their memory.

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Pete, do you mean like the staple slalom of cones or a slalom with varying cone distance ?

I'd also appreciate tutialage on how to approach and navigate both increasing and reducing radius turns.
Where do you make up the time ?
How to see a late or early apex ?

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I'm not a Guru... I just know more than you.

The easiest way to win an argument with a woman... is to stop talking.

How to keep the momentum of an under powered vehicle up whilst goingthrough the course , with maintaining as best as possible the lines into and out of the corner , accelerating points , transition points etc.

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All in or nothing at all , keep your foot in it ............

^^doh mash brakes LOL jk jk....that is a good question tho, i think it has a lot to do with your line and using the car's shortcomings to your advantage

Nice thread. I woulda rel like to learn to heel toe downshift without blowing my gearbox.

I have a question i hope cud be answered too. Does a single clutch rev-matched downshift put any more strain on the gearbox than a double clutch rev-matched downshift?

modern gearboxes have synchros in them, which tolerate the speed difference (strain as you put it) between gearshifts.
releasing the clutch while in neutral, allows all internal components of the gearbox to spin at the speed matching the input (engine speed), making the transition even more fluid.

"single clutch reved matched downshift" matches only the current engine speed to the new gears rpm.

beneficial? yes. required? only in extreme circumstances.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission4.htm

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I always heel and toe into 1st when I downshift in dex. Really helps to keep the car settled.

hmm...........that's really to match revs on a downshift.....the technique was originally a tool for cars with gearboxes that lacked synchros....when u say 'keeps the car settled', what exactly do you mean?

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Peugeot 206SW for sale
viewtopic.php?f=55&t=479201

imo you need to release the clutch in neutral ie double-declutch downshift. Releasing the clutch in neutral reconnects the engine and drivetrain, and alows them to match speeds when you blip the throttle

sequence is brake > clutch in > neutral > release clutch > blip throttle while still on brakes > clutch in > select lower gear > clutch out > fyahz

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Peugeot 206SW for sale
viewtopic.php?f=55&t=479201

Actually heel-toe is just as relevant today as it was years ago. The method used for cars without synchros was double clutching.




Double clutching does not help a modern gear box when rev matching on a downshift UNLESS your synchros are going bad. single clutch rev matched or single clutch heel toe shift is perfectly effective with a standard modern day synchro equipped transmission.

By settling the car I believe he means suspension wise. WHenver you brake, accelerate or change direction/transition, it will unsettle the suspension. Rev matching with a heel toe will minimize the effect of the application of power during a shift, thereby reducing the weight transition during cornering... keeping the car 'settled' while negotiating the turn... at the least the way I've experienced it.

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I'm not a Guru... I just know more than you.

The easiest way to win an argument with a woman... is to stop talking.

Solodex...What do you want to learn ?

How to drive? PERIOD!

Or this: How can you go easier on my tires and still win ?

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Crossing the line of bravery to insanity.
>>Trinbago Subaru Owners Club<<

I can't help you on the "still win" part. However It helps to learn how to choose lines.

With that said............ to save tires:
Brake in as straight a line as possible, without locking-up the tires.
Never cause wheel spin.

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Exactly X2, makes a nice smooth transition unto power out of a tight corner instead of


1) Staying in second and getting lag lag lag lag laaaaaaaaggggg BOOOST!!!!
2) Jamming it into first, letting go the clutch and having the transmission take strain and engine load.

With respect to tyres, you have to have an idea of understeer especially. Too much power, or too tight a line into a corner will cause most front wheel drives to understeer. You are pointing towards the corner, but your car seems to be moving away from the corner. When tyres start to slip, they wear faster. AND you are going slower. BUT you can't baby and not know the limit. So my advice is to corner as hard as you can, keeping the momentum into, during and out of the corner. With the caveat that when you start to hear your tyres, back down a little, you will go faster and save tyres a lot!

To go back to 1st gear while in motion with the ignis you must learn to do this. If you come to the driving school I will explain it more to you, but the key with that is practice.....and not on the roads you will need an empty car park or something. But yes you do need to understand what you are doing before you attempt else you probably may damage the box.

Kevin this way probably is smoother but I find that hard to do in dex when I am running up to a corner and braking as late as possible....that is my driving style. That's why I heel and toe downshift at dex because the point where the wheels don't have load from the engine on it i.e when you go to neutral.....the car speeds ups when you trying to slow down more hence putting more stress on ur brakes and risk of overshooting the corner.

^^^the car won't speed up if you on the brake

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Peugeot 206SW for sale
viewtopic.php?f=55&t=479201

Agreed speed up was probably wrong to say, but when you go to neutral even if you on the brakes you put more stress on the brakes and its even harder to slow down meaning I would have to brake a little earlier to compensate......i prefer running up as late as possible give one firm stamp on the brake to get the car to the speed i want for the corner.

u overthinking that..............brakes are meant to be used.........what stress u taking about? And u won't have to brake earlier, u just have to modulate better

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Peugeot 206SW for sale
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he had me wondering if he goes into the corner with both brake and clutch depressed..
if the racing adage of "you're either accelerating or braking" is used.
From the time you go on the brake, you should have already dropped the gear, and come off the clutch before you come off the brake to go back on the gas.
so what extra brake stress? even more engine braking would have been applied by the downshift.

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