audio men i need some advice and help...

system consists of pioneer head unit, 3xs,two amps( one carries 2 30amp fuses the other carries one) 8 six inch speakers.(4 2-way speakers and 4 eminence) no bass line. that's it!

my SR has a 90amp alternator. when idling and playing the volts drop to 11.1.11.2 etc. fluctuates between 11 and 12 volts. with a/c on off it makes little difference. when i turn the volume down the volts go straight up to 13.5 and around that!

why is it that the current drops so low when driving the speakers? i have no bass line,but it still drops. i have one battery(825 cranking amps) no power cap!

the current drops to low...help!

thanks in advance for ur replies..

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There is no such thing as cynicism, it is merely realism born out of experience.

Your alt playing de a**.. Get it checked..

Try turning music off and putting your high beams on, if you notice the same low voltage, it's definitely the alt.. If voltage stands strong, then you could have a slack wire some where..

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It's not leaking oil, it's sweating power!

its either d alt or d batt dying ...

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See my ads in the Car Audio Classifieds section : Subs ,Decks ,Speakers , Amps, Wiring etc ...

153 dbs with 1 15" Iasca Meter 11\4\2010

i changed the alternator one day after the synergy car show last year. when my bro checked the alternator it was fried! stator,rotor,etc.

i bought a 90amp as an upgrade to the 80amp my engine came with! my battery is exactly 2 yrs old this month. it is a normal water battery!

do i have to install a power cap for mids alone? i dont have intention on adding a bass line.

or do i have to change to a optima or something similar?

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There is no such thing as cynicism, it is merely realism born out of experience.

what brand of batt is it ?

it had a thread somewhere in d ole talk section where tuners said that it seems all d local batts have a bad habit of dying just after d warranty expires ...

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See my ads in the Car Audio Classifieds section : Subs ,Decks ,Speakers , Amps, Wiring etc ...

153 dbs with 1 15" Iasca Meter 11\4\2010

the battery is a turbo 825 cranking amps with 18mts full replacement! i know people say its cheap battery,but that is what i could have afforded then!

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There is no such thing as cynicism, it is merely realism born out of experience.

stupid question: how is the voltage with the engine switched off?

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Don't waste your money on that crap. Do a forum search, that has been covered before.

If your battery is good and the car starts normal, then it is possible you have a wiring fault somewhere. Get a 2nd voltage meter / multimeter to verify..

To reach 11.1V, it means you are seriously over powering both your alternator and battery (which I doubt) or you have an electrical fault.

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It's not leaking oil, it's sweating power!

slacks, the voltage off is 12.5!

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There is no such thing as cynicism, it is merely realism born out of experience.

second milti meter reads the same as my stinger volt meter! the volt meter is connected directly to the '0' gauge wire,which is connected to the alternator!

the car starts 'ok' i mean normal few tumbles and then start. battery before with the SR did the same! i checked all the connections over and everything seems fine!

the only thing i can think about is the battery not charging fast enough as the music system takes it away when playing it!

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There is no such thing as cynicism, it is merely realism born out of experience.

check t & tec

if the battery is good, alternator is not giving the current it is supposed

gas to 2000rpm and see if the voltage issue eases, if it does, its not enough rpm, if it doesnt, alternator is not giving rated power.

if u had the equipment to, you can tell how much current the alternator gives out

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N O Y Z T O Y Z
The HIGH quality audio shop

charge voltage differs according to vehicle, mine is 14.6 - 8 when the car now start & 14.2 with the headlights & fog lights on. By the time I done beat the highways its like 13.6v.
My pal has a mazda 3, charge voltage is less in his car.

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Put that on the battery positive instead of the alternator.

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It's not leaking oil, it's sweating power!

wtf! well that is the problem right there

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Misc stuff for sale and for free

3stagevtec,slacks for want of better words!

my battery is relocated to the trunk!
there is the normal wires that ran to the battery pole to the front of the car.i jus replaced the terminal with a distribution block and from there the '0' gauge ran to the battery!

then,jus by the kick panel on the passenger side is my fuse block and the entire system gets current from there!

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There is no such thing as cynicism, it is merely realism born out of experience.

noyztoyz,aks, will check it out!

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There is no such thing as cynicism, it is merely realism born out of experience.

you connect 8 awg from the alt to 0 awg that runs to the trunk mount batt? condemn or remove that 8awg frm the alt & run the 0 awg direct to it. connect your amps +tive to the +tive of the battery pole. Your batt is like a big buffer & the alt replenishes it as you take from it.

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^^given the situation i'm in right now,i can't connect the amps direct to the battery. the only way i can do that is to run another battery in front. but the dimensions have to be specific. about 7inches by 5inches by about 4inches in height.yes very small!

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There is no such thing as cynicism, it is merely realism born out of experience.

where are the amps & where is the battery? can you get to the cable?

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^^over haul in the process slacks...will update when completed!

*i didn't forget u with the terminal ok...jus time to go through the stuff*

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There is no such thing as cynicism, it is merely realism born out of experience.

no probs, I not really working on anything lately anyways, still waiting on my last few piece of equipment before I put them together.

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my alternator gave up at 6am this morning on my way to work. good thing i didn't hit the highway as yet. i tried to drive back home on battery alone,but i didn't make it.

i called my brother and he brought another battery for me to use to drive with.( i made that sr bark through one of the worst road in central.munroe road.well bad for me cause of my stiff suspension.) alternator was installed only 8months,and it gave out!

*slacks,i re-wired like u told me.it helped 80%. one of my amps gave out as well.i'm guessing due to the low voltage issue. it's an ORION. when i installed another amp in its place and bring back everything up to how it was,i will post the final result!*

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There is no such thing as cynicism, it is merely realism born out of experience.

no probs man.

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seeing it already have a ched for alt problems

i have a stock alt, 80amps i most believe

anytime the car accelerates the lights get brighter (a good bit imo because the headlights also gets brighter)

whats the easiest way to overcome this problem?

big3?

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