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ek4ever
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 2:15 pm 
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Looking for a place that sells quality equipment and does high quality installations....preferably in south...and want to install a new system this Saturday.

Any recommendations???

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Aaron 2NR
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 2:48 pm 
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to get something done at this late hr is kinda impossible lol...

check ravestarfx or even fen mohammed for equipment....

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ek4ever
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 8:21 pm 
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^^ok....missed this Saturday so my time is more flexible now....any more recommendations guys???

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Aaron 2NR
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:47 am 
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if ure located in north, check SR..make an appointment....

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jeffrie88
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 9:09 pm 
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I know this is an old post but it is a good read and so true. Where I live it is hard to find a good installer. I know this sounds generic but when they were in business, Circuit City had one of the best in the area. The youngster they had knew his stuff. You had to spend some cash to get him to do the work or they had the others work on your stuff. I had a lot of stuff put in my car and had him replace the wiring to the speakers as well. One smart alec kid said it doesn't matter what size the wire is from the head unit to the speakers that is just a waste? I said well that is ok, Josh (the wiz kid) knows what I want. He re-wired and installed the head unit 6 speakers run the wires for the amp and put in the subs in 4 hours. I thanked him and slid him a 50 and told him I really appreciated what he did.

After that, when ever I needed something done, he bent over backwards to get it done for me. The thing is, I don't know where he went!! CC closed shop and I know his talents are needed. If I could find him, I would do what I could to open a shop for him to work if he wanted. I know he could pick his wages because of his talent. There is but 2 here where I live and they think they know it all, but from what I have seen, they are bolt-on kids. No customs but maybe a box with a couple holes in. :) Which most of those are pre-fab

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the_guy_you_need_to_know
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 11:40 am 
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Ok peolpe, we all agree that getting good installers for our equiptment is critical. SOOOOO the question is , is there any certified installers in Trinidad(more so east Trinidad) anyone can refer me to for a small system hook up

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box boy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 3:04 pm 
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it s hard to find a good installer but when looking for one you consider a few people asking around . when installing music comunication goes both ways you must talk to the customer asking what they would like to see there budget .. things like that and to the customer don t be afraid to ask questions you are paying for it like do you have a photo album and it is true i have 1 and many people do ask to see it and you can even ask to speak to 1 of there customers and ask them questions like how did the installer treat you and if the istallation was what you wanted and overall the sound. some times its good to do your install if you have the right guidance and i hear some stories that make you say what .we had a customer who told us he was looking for a mono block . normal stuff he said he install the music himself and he has a power acoustic the grey 1 a 3000 watt and because of wrong ohmage the amp was overheating so i said all you have to do is change the ohmage because the amp is good it does make sence spending more money so he said sorry he had one of those so i was confused he said he left his car playing outside and his son about 4 years old came running to him and said "daddy daddy the amp hot ....so i take koolaid and kool it down " well i had nothing to say . when your installing music a great installer will allways give you a guarantee if there is not find another . sometimes you might find cheap installers and yes it s good but you must watch the work they have done although someone may be a slight more expensive the quality of work done may be better . and for the installer who couldn t give a daam about what you do in other people s cars i wonder how you sleep at night because it like you are robbing someone who has worked hard for there money and that make you a theif and to the installer who spends endless time and treat the customers car like if it s there own, good work and if you not breaking your back you not doing it right.


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Renaldo25
PostPosted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 10:24 pm 
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I installed a simple nice system by Sound crew in Arima, JVC head unit w usb connection 1500 watt amp and 1000w sub most ppl who hear it think its very clean and very loud and what problems i had were mostly novice mistakes on my part or having the connection lose on my battery. Great service as well i dont mind going back by them netime soon and of course got my warranty and everything.

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infinitesounds
PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 11:17 am 
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Location: chaguanas
love this thread i really hope ppl read and learn from this esp the"do it myself" type of ppl who are the majority of ppl to "bad tlk" GOOD equipment when they fail to make them work the right way


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TheVoid
PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 2:28 pm 
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very usefull information. thanks :)

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dg216
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 3:50 pm 
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Sr you located in North or South ? looking for installation work done .


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jessica-biel
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 8:51 am 
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This installation guide walks you through the process of installing a new car stereo. Read over these guidelines before beginning the installation in order to give yourself an idea of what to expect.

You can also download a pdf of the Car Stereo Installation Guide. Note: To view this file, you will need the Adobe Acrobat PDF reader (free download).
Tools Needed (depending upon vehicle):
Tools Needed for In-dash Stereo Installation
Disconnect your battery Disconnect your battery before any installation job.

When installing a new stereo in your car, your first step will be to remove the old stereo. Pay close attention to the steps involved, for the process for installing your new stereo will be the same, but in reverse.

Removing the factory stereo
For detailed information on how to remove the factory stereo in a specific vehicle, refer to your Crutchfield MasterSheet™ instructions, if available. They will walk you through the process step-by-step. Otherwise, you may use the general guidelines below.

Before you begin, start by setting the parking brake and removing the negative cable from the car battery to prevent accidentally short circuiting something.

Your factory stereo will be mounted in one of two ways:

* secured in a metal mounting sleeve by spring clips
* bolted to the dash with brackets

DIN tools are used to remove the factory stereo from a 2000 Ford Expedition. DIN tools are used to remove the factory stereo from a 2000 Ford Expedition.

Spring clip mounting
If the stereo is held in by spring clips, you'll need a pair of DIN tools. Insert the DIN tools into the holes on eitter side of the unit until a click is heard. The tools serve to release the spring clips and also hook onto the sides of the stereo so that you can pull it out easily. Spread the tools apart slightly then pull the stereo out of the dash.

Bolted in place
Sometimes, accessing the stereo requires the removal of one or more trimpanels from the dash. You may have to (carefully) pry the plastic trim away from the dash (which is often secured by hidden pressure clips), or locate and remove bolts to disassemble other pieces of panel. Once you have gained access to the factory stereo, removal should be obvious. The stereo will almost always be secured by four screws, sometimes bolted directly to the front of the dash, other times secured to side brackets. Remove the screws and pull the stereo from the dash.
Four philips screws secure the factory stereo in a 1992-94 Geo Metro. Four philips screws secure the factory stereo in a 1992-94 Geo Metro. Four bolts and a pair of side brackets attach the stereo to the dasgh in a 1998 Toyota Sienna. Four bolts and a pair of side brackets attach the stereo to the dasgh in a 1998 Toyota Sienna.

American cars built before the early 1980s often came with a "shaft-style" stereo, which secured to the dash via nuts and washers to the right and left knobs. A shaft-style stereo must be installed from behind the dash. Getting it into position is the tricky part, since your vehicle's wiring, heater controls, and ductwork may be in the way.

Unplugging the factory stereo
Factory wiring harnesses. Factory wiring harnesses.
If your vehicle has (or once had) a factory stereo, or if it was pre-wired with a "stereo prep" package, there should be at least one plastic wiring harness behind the stereo opening. This plug(s) connects the stereo to your vehicle's electrical system, and also makes the speaker connections. You will need to unplug the factory stereo from the wiring harnesses, and unplug the antenna to complete the removal process.

If Crutchfield carries a custom wiring harness for your vehicle, you can use it to connect your new stereo to your vehicle's factory wiring harnesses. This will ensure that everything works seamlessly, just like the factory stereo did.
A custom wiring harness makes installing a new stereo much easier. A custom wiring harness makes installing a new stereo much easier.

If a harness is not available for your vehicle or if the factory stereo plug was cut off, you'll need to identify each of the stereo wires and connect them to the corresponding wires of your new stereo. If you purchased your new stereo from Crutchfield, our Tech Department may be able to tell you the colors and functions of your car's stereo wires.

Crimping and Soldering
Decide whether you want to crimp or solder the wires together. Crimping is faster and easier. If you crimp the wires together, be sure to use the correct size crimp connector — typical in-dash stereo wires are 18-gauge, but a few use heavier gauge power and ground wires. There are several types of crimp connectors, including bullet connectors, butt connectors, or crimp caps (pictured below).

Soldering creates a permanent, professional connection that ensures maximum current transfer. We strongly recommend that you use heat-shrink tubing and a heat gun to insulate the soldered connection. Avoid taping the wires together — the tape will dry out and fall off, exposing the wires and making it only a matter of time before something shorts out.
Crimp Method Solder Method

Power
Usually, it is best to make all of the new stereo's wiring connections via the wiring harness, but if you have to make a direct power connection, you'll need to know the difference between "switched" and "constant" power.

A switched power source is only on when the ignition is keyed — connect your new stereo's main (switched) power lead to a switched power source, so that the stereo will turn off when you turn off the car, and not drain your vehicle's battery.

A constant power source is always on — connect your new stereo's memory lead to a constant power source, so that you don't lose your stereo preset, sound shaping, and clock settings every time you turn off the vehicle.

A rare few high-powered stereos require you to make a direct constant power connection at the positive terminal of your vehicle's battery. This requires a heavier gauge power wire, an in-line fuse (usually included), and a ring terminal to connect the power wire to the battery clamp. You will have to route the power wire through the vehicle firewall and into the engine compartment in order to make the connection at the battery.

Ground
A good ground connection is vital for proper stereo performance. If you are not using a custom wiring harness, look for a bolt, screw, or wire that contacts the bare metal of your vehicle's chassis. Loosen the bolt, slip the ground wire underneath (this is almost always a black wire), then tighten the bolt. If your ground wire doesn't contact bare metal, your stereo won't operate. A loose or weak ground connection can result in signal noise interfering with your music.

In-dash video wiring
If your new stereo has a video monitor built in, you will also need to connect a wire to your emergency brake wire. This wire acts as a switch to turn on the video monitor when the parking brake is engaged. Follow the instructions included with your in-dash monitor to locate the emergency brake ground wire.
car stereo installation guide
You might need to use a basckstrap to support the rear of your new stereo. You might need to use a backstrap to support the rear of your new stereo.

Installing the new stereo
If the original stereo was bolted into the dash, you might need to remove the mounting brackets from the sides of it and attach them to the sides of your new stereo. More likely, you will need a mounting kit (which may include a trim ring, a dash insert, brackets, a faceplate, and/or a metal mounting sleeve) to install the stereo (Figure 1).

If a mounting kit is required, install it first. Then slide the new stereo's metal mounting sleeve (if included) into the kit. Secure the metal sleeve by using a screwdriver to bend the sleeve's metal tabs into place (Figure 2).

Once the dash opening is ready for the new stereo, hold the stereo near the opening. Connect the stereo wiring adapter to the vehicle's wiring harness and plug in the antenna cable.

Slide the stereo into the dash opening, but don't fasten it down just yet. First, test the stereo to make sure everything is working properly. It's easier to fix a problem while everything is still exposed. Turn on the power and try each source (AM, FM, and CD). Then adjust the balance and fader settings to check that each speaker is working. Once you're sure the stereo is wired and working properly, finish securing it in the dash and reinstall any pieces of dash trimpanel that you removed.

Installing a backstrap
A mounting bracket — or backstrap — is often included with new stereos. For most installations, a backstrap usually is not a necessary part of the installation process. However, it can be useful to help support the stereo in your dash; it also helps reduce vibration. One end of the backtrap attaches (with a screw) to the rear of the stereo. The other end attaches to an existing bolt or screw behind the dash. Just bend and shape the backstrap as necessary to enable mounting.
This adapter allows you to install an aftermarket stereo in a 2003-up Honda Accord's dash panel, while maintaining all heating, ventilation, and air conditioning controls. This adapter allows you to install an aftermarket stereo in a 2003-up Honda Accord's dash panel, while maintaining all heating, ventilation, and air conditioning controls.

If your vehicle has a Premium sound system or an integrated stereo/climate control panel, you will probably need a special "OEM integration" adapter in order to install a new stereo. The appropriate adapter can be purchased from crutchfield.com. An adapter allows you to use a new stereo with your existing speaker system.

Evaluation
By now you should have some idea of what is involved in replacing your factory stereo with a new, better, aftermarket stereo. The next step is to see if Crutchfield has a MasterSheet™ for your vehicle. That's a set of installation instructions custom designed for your specific vehicle. It will describe every step of the process and tell you where to find every screw you need to remove for the installation. A MasterSheet™ takes all the guesswork out of the installation.

Even without a Crutchfield MasterSheet™, most people can install an in-dash stereo without much trouble, using just the tips in this article. This in turn leads to a savings in installation fees ($50 is common, and often it's more). But if you would rather not tackle the task, there are competent and highly trained professional stereo installers in every town where you'd find teenagers and cars.


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Captain
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 11:18 pm 
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Hi Guys i have a Bluebird Sylphy. Im looking for a Map CD to program a 2003 Mistsubishi DVD deck.
I think the number on the disk is DX-V7000R-5W JT. If anyone has one i just need to program the deck.


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