search of this forum reveals very little info when it comes to d fielder so i decided to make a "official thread" so ask anything u want here & hopefully we can share some info with each other


1st question :

2007 new model fielder 1500cc engine , what type of gas to use : super or premium ?

havent looked at d engine as yet to see what model no it is ...

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153 dbs with 1 15" Iasca Meter 11\4\2010

if its a 1.5 then is probabli a 3zz-fe...which designed to work on 91 ron fuel...so super would work just fine....

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the newer model 1.5 fielders I have seen under the hood have 1nz-fe engines
which work fine with super

I wanna know why they are so expensive now,
I paid $80k for 1.5 fielder in 2006
now they calling $128k for 1.5 and $135 for 1.8

thank goodness 2 ppl posted - was beginning to think like not much fielder owners r on tuner


thanks for d info guys ....

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153 dbs with 1 15" Iasca Meter 11\4\2010

i dont recommend that u put super in that 1nz-fe.....neither does the manufacturer....this gona cause the ecu to retard the timing and cause ah set ah stupid problems....and also as set ah injector issues as well...so even though it may look as though it working fine now and u think that its working fine......well lets just say candle cost more than funeral....

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i thought all gas now is unleaded and will not cause specific injector issues unlike running leaded vs unleaded ? The only issue supposed to be the octane rating requirements per the engine.
Correct me if I am wrong.

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^all this was covered in previous threads...onli if someone would take the time and compile all of it...lol...

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where is d engine model number located ? ...

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See my ads in the Car Audio Classifieds section : Subs ,Decks ,Speakers , Amps, Wiring etc ...

153 dbs with 1 15" Iasca Meter 11\4\2010

I get 26-28mpg so and I used to get the same before when I used premium. I stopped using premium after the price went up.
So something does not add up here.
nze is a low compression economy engine......

What is the number for the fan belt?

cr on the 3zz-fe is 10:1 and for the 1nz-fe is 10.5:1.....10.5:1 is not is not really low....and the compression of the 1nz-fe is stil more than the 3zz-fe.....




should be on stamp on firewall....corolla sedans have it there atleast....if not check the cert copy (not sure of this one though)....

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The 1.5L engine that the Corolla from 2000 got, as well as the Fielder, Allex, Runx, Probox, Platz, Vitz, Vios, Scion Xb and a host of other Toyota cars was the 1NZ-FE. The current Corolla & Fielder still carries it, though it may be with a drive-by-wire throttle. (No accelerator cable)

The engine type & number can be found on the cylinder head under the plastic intake manifold between nos. 3 & 4 intake. A flashlight may be necessary. Check the photo.

For 4 years we have been running our 1NZ-FE on super, very hard at times. No problems yet, even at 170KMH.

All this and other 1NZ-FE info were discussed before.

Regards,
RR.

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As you get older, you don't modify a car to make it fast, you simply BUY a stock fast car.

^can always count on u for great info - thanks ! ...

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See my ads in the Car Audio Classifieds section : Subs ,Decks ,Speakers , Amps, Wiring etc ...

153 dbs with 1 15" Iasca Meter 11\4\2010

well it would appear we have conflicting opinions on gas type usage for nze engines
btw the cars I saw today had the engine model type on a little plate/sticker on the bonnet right underside, above where the battery would be

does anyone know if the fielder rear shoe hubs can be easily switched out to disc hubs from a corolla ?

^yup dats works...once u get the same generation it bolts up like original....there is a place in the bamboo that does sell the nze rear end for 2500....its in siwala street on the left hand side almost to the end....they also have the different generations as well.....ie different model ones...

but your best bet with these conversions is still to take out your own and compare before buying....

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so its just bolt on, hook up brake lines and handbrake cable ?

Don't forget ABS sensors.
It is possible that the handbrake cable/s may be different on the wheel end. Make sure you get them when buying a rear set-up.

The 2ZZGE equipped Fielder, Runx and Allex RS180 came with rear disc brakes.
Regards,
RR.

_________________
As you get older, you don't modify a car to make it fast, you simply BUY a stock fast car.

how or who does program d mitsubishi navigation\dvd\cd deck that that come with d new shape roro fielders ?

i hear if u take out d batt all d deck settings r lost & u have to get some special cd to unlock it so any info wud be appreciated ....

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153 dbs with 1 15" Iasca Meter 11\4\2010

anyone...???

check toyolink in the forums.... he has the transmission fluid recommended for the new fielders and also is linked with a mechanic who can change it for u

given that soon the majority of cars are coming with cvt i would guess that the price of changing txn cvt oil should be common

nobody ? .....

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153 dbs with 1 15" Iasca Meter 11\4\2010

Fielder loud nosie when starting.
I have a 2005 Fielder and I always noticed a loud noise when starting but the mechanic said that is the timining chain is grating on metal when staring but once the oil flows the nosie is gone if you switch off and then restart.
I noticed a lady in work with one as well and her own makes the same noise. Same 2005 model, the one with the electronic throttle.... Anybody else experiencing this?

The cam chain tensioner works with hydraulic pressure of the lubrication system. It means that only when the oil pump turns (by the engine turning) then the pressure will build to operate the tensioner to keep the chain taut, preventing noise.
The oil comes to the tensioner via an orifice.
Noise problems could be one of these issues or others:
1. Stretched, worn chain.
2. Tensioner and/or chain guide(ladder) defective.
3. Worn oil pump.
4. Wrong oil viscosity.

A high mileage engine will obviously develop wear. Tolerances will increase, and in the case of the oil system, will result in a drop in oil pressure, especially at low engine speeds. This drop in pressure will result in the tensioner taking longer to react, hence the obvious timing chain noise.
If you use a heavy mineral oil, it will be more viscous when cold, and will take longer to flow, longer to go through the orifice, to activate the tensioner. For a temporary relief, use a lighter oil, synthetic if you can afford it the next oil change.
However, nothing beats renewing worn, fatigued engine parts.
Regards,
RR.

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As you get older, you don't modify a car to make it fast, you simply BUY a stock fast car.

what's recommended viscosity ?

Q.I have a local fielde wagon 1.8 1zzfe ,engnine parts hard to find or what?

I will try to use a synthetic blend. Castrol 10w 30 will do?
If this stops or reduces my noise should I still change the tenshioner?
Is there anyway tio check to see if the tenshioner was damaged?

Another thing, When I bought the car about one year ago, I went to cahnge oil and noticed that the engine had sludge in it. I dont know it it was severe but when we drained the oil not much sludge came out?

I was advised not to do an engine flush in the event that any lines becomes clogged and the engine could get damaged seriously. I just tried to change my oil pretty often. The car works really well, in ter,s of performance, and I service it regularly.....
I just need to get rid of the noise so that my resale value would not decrease !!!

Can anyone recommed a mech to check it for me and really get the noise resolved?