HELP..20 VALVE SILVERTOP IDLE AND REV PROBLEMS

joelleena · Postby **joelleena** » June 14th, 2012, 7:55 pm

HI PEOPLE... TODAY I INSTALLED A ST ENGINE ..TRIED TO START AND IT STARTING, REVVING TO 2000RPM THEN IDLE DROP SLOWLY OVER A 5 SECONGD PERIOD AND IT CUTS OFF....ALSO IF YOU TRY TO REV, IT STUTTERS AND CUTS OFF...PLEASE HELP ME..

Postby **Hook** » June 15th, 2012, 11:11 am

I'll reply to your PM here instead

joelleena wrote:GETTING SOME PROBLEMS WITH MY ST 20 V.....CHECK TOYOTA FORUM AND PLEASE GIVE ME SOME SUGGESTIONS....I REALISE YOU VERY GOOD WITH TOYOTAS....[spoiler].I INSTALLED TODAY ..TRIED TO START AND IT STARTING, REVVING TO 2000RPM THEN IDLE DROP SLOWLY OVER A 5 SECONGD PERIOD AND IT CUTS OFF....ALSO IF YOU TRY TO REV, IT STUTTERS AND CUTS OFF...PLEASE HELP ME..

sounds like either a fueling problem, bad ISCV or a bad air flow meter...the easiest thing is to clean the ISCV first and see if it makes a difference

with the silvertop, the fuel pump relay (if u installed it just like factory) switches on via two contacts inside the AFM...to go with this, there's a fuse in the engine bay labelled EFI-S(? I think) that govern's the pump...the fuse holder tends to get hot and melty and not make proper contact...if this happens, it'll still come on to prime the injectors when you switch on the ignition while tumbling, but it won't run the car.

barring that, most electricians tend to wire it directly to ignition, if you're hearing it whine/whir below the back seat even with the cutting off, likely the pump wiring is fine and it's the AFM then

do the usual...inspect for vacuum leaks, proper plug connections and check here to see if there are any stored error codes:

Hook wrote:Q: Did you disconnect the battery to erase the stored error code?
A: Try disconnecting the battery for abt 5mins then reconnecting it. This resets the ECU and erases any stored error codes. If the old error code is still stored, the ECU will remain in "limp mode" and the problem may appear to have not been fixed.

Q: Are you certain your mechanic really changed it?
A: A good habit to have it to mark your new parts and ask for the old ones back. That way, you can confirm your parts have been changed if your mark is still there. If it's a part that you replace periodically, you can confirm the old one came out and the new one went in.

Q: Is the new sensor plugged in?
A: This is where the sensor is located (the one shown below with the red ring around it). Check that it's plugged in.

Also, if there's a break in the conductor on the inside, you could change a bajillion sensors and reset it 'til Kingdom come and you'll still get the same problem.

You can confirm for yourself what the error code is without the scan tool. This helps to check that you've cleared the error code.
With the engine off, open the diagnostic port and jump terminals TE1 and E1 with a small piece of wire.

Now sit in the car with a pen and paper, turn on the ignition (don't start the car) and look at the flashing Check Engine Light. See here on how to read it.

When you've written down your codes, see here for the translation.
http://www.club4ag.com/faq_and_tech_pag ... 0Codes.htm