I dropped on some 20" rims on my NZE without seeking advice. My front right side is touching on the stone shield.. I will like advice from anyone who has experience dealing with this problem.. I do not want to roll te fender lip or remove the stone shield. Help will be much appreciated. Thanks fellas

just my opinion, but using 20" wheels and having the same ride height as a donkey kart does very little for the 'coolness' you're trying to achieve. a set of nice 17's will do you more justice in terms of aesthetics, ride quality, stress and strain on suspension components and fitment issues.

the wheel doesn't have to be bigger to look better.

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FS: One (1) set FET Sports 16" staggered wheels [5*114.3; 16x8 front; 16x9 rear; three piece lightweights]

Thanks buddy, noted. I had 18's before.. The ride won't be as good with the 20's! I might as well revert if the problem persist.

Bling bling.

With 20" wheels, you have to sacrifice something. Why? Because they were not made for the car.
Not really adviseable but you may HAVE to roll your fenders and remove the stone shield. Either that or just use something smaller na man..

kthanksbai.

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yea man i went back to 18's better than ever

Alot of fellas have done it, including myself, but not with a NZE though. A Lancer. Had the same problems you encountered. I had to remove the stone shield and I had to issues thereafter. I like the bling but also had a set of 18" lightweight black wheels so I was able to swap to my liking. 20" chrome is very heavy and puts a strain on suspensions parts. You could just take your time and try to use polyurethane bushings.....but you are much better off with 18".

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I certainly appreciate the level of good sense demonstrated in this thread.

THIS

a guy with a new model lancer bawlin next door in d garage cuz he messed up his transmission. 20s chrome again. and the lancer was looking 100X times better with stock rims.

rel money d man have to spend

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My name is not Steve!!!!!!!!!1!one!!eleven

I have lectured to clients and in some cases even begged them to avoid going over the top with huge heavy wheels,but many did their own thing and the amount of money they have had to pour in is crazy.
My personal view is don't cross 17" cloaked in up to 225/45r17 tyres and only do this if your suspension and steering configuration is in very good condition.
I have done 18" on a 2009 nze141 but only after doing a proper suspension upgrade using TRD stuff but the ride became more aggressive and less refined.

17s are really good but im getting tired of it. always prefer a 15.

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My name is not Steve!!!!!!!!!1!one!!eleven

There are two things about wheel size that are to be understood in the good operation of your vehicle.

1. Correct wheel size.
The manufacturer of a vehicle calculates the diameter and width of a wheel for clearance in the wheel well, so that there is no touching as it goes up and down, and turns from left to right.
Then the circumference of the wheel is taken into account, as this would cover a certain distance in one revolution. The engine has to turn this wheel via the transmission, be it automatic or manual. To put wheels with greater circumference than original compromises your acceleration and responsiveness, requires more frequent gear shifting, sometimes even higher gas consumption.
Then the actual width of the tyre has to be taken into consideration. For instance we could look into a hypothetical situation starting with stock tyres. Lets say the stock tyre area resting on the road (footprint) is 20 square inches and the weight on that wheel is 800 pounds, it means that each square inch has 40 pounds exerted on it. (800 div. by 20) But now you put a wide tyre that has a footprint of 35 square inches. The weight exerted on each square inch is now 23 pounds. Makes it a lot easier to skid on wet road, don’t you think ? Too, the front wheels work as a parallelogram (of course with a little toe-in) to steer your car properly, and changing wheel width changes this to the point of your front wheel dragging instead of turning, accelerating tyre wear and stressing out your steering rack, arms, wheel bearings and camber/alignment.

2. Unsprung weight.
Unsprung weight is the ratio between the moving parts of a wheel, and the non moving car body. The lighter the wheel assembly compared to the weight of the body, the smoother the ride.
Lets look at another hypothetical situation.
Say that the stock front wheel assembly (tyre, rim, wheel nuts, bolts, caliper, pads, rotor, axle and bearing, lower shock barrel, track arm, steering rod) weighs 80 pounds and the non-moving part (the rest of the car excluding wheel assemblies) weighs 2280 pounds, the unsprung weight ratio will be (2280 div. by 80), 27.5: 1. Ok the car rides nice.
When you add a bigger rotor, bigger caliper, rim and tyre and increase the weight to 100 pounds, the unsprung weight ratio changes to 22.8 :1. That means that you car will ride less smooth.
This is why we feel that large American cars float. Their unsprung weight ratio is a lot greater than small cars that carry grossly oversize wheels !

Another illogical thing to do to your car is cutting springs to lower it…….to look cool. If a spring has 8 coils that travel half inch each, you will get 4 inches of travel as you hit the bumps, potholes etc. By cutting off 2 coils, you reduce travel to 3 inches. That is a lot in suspension terms. So the ride gets stiffer, and everyone behind you watches this jackass trying to avoid every pebble in the road, and trying all kind of semantics to negotiate a speed bump. They curse you under their breath, as you bump up and down in your boxcart-that-was-once-a-car. Then when you get flat road, you take off like a jet ! You are afraid to carry someone in your back seat. Lord help you to insert the jack when you get a flat !

The Tyre Specification sticker on the driver’s door post was put there for a reason, by your car manufacturer. If you feel that you are smarter than they are, go ahead and ignore it. Maybe afterward in your realm of smart, you can try making your own car as well !!
Regards,
RR.

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As you get older, you don't modify a car to make it fast, you simply BUY a stock fast car.

dai by billy oar?

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Good information fellas, duly noted.. I must say going to 20's was purely because of show. When in turn yes it looks good but the ride is awful. Thought about upgrading the bushings but that was another set of money to spend..Sorry but im not doing the stoneshield thinge. These 18s are great, very light weight and the ride is much better, fast pull of, gas consumption has improved. Not me and 20's on a car ever again, it isn't worth it.

I did it just for show as well. Looks damn good but not everyone is going to buy two set of wheels and swap them ever so often like if I own a damn tyre shop

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Interesting that the talk is about a bad ride quality and no one has asked how the car was "dropped" I would attribute poor ride quality firstly to the type of spring and shock used. If you dropped on the stock shock u are probably riding on your bump stop all day and that will make the car feel terrible. If you have cut the stock spring even worse.

The car was dropped using TEIN H tech springs.. ride is not as bad as you'll would think..