CY lancer (08 lancer)

[Big Z]

1. Tyre brand without model is like saying you buying a Mitsubishi... which Mitsubishi ya buying?
2. Check m ramrattan for bridgestone.

[Xecutive]

Yeah SHO..really wanted the proxes but outta my budget. Plus I may not be keeping the stock rims much longer. Just waiting for the warranty period to end and then I might switch to enkei, rota or something lightweight. Saw that the t1 sport had good reviews.

@Big Z, I know but I asked a couple of the sales reps and was a bit of a run around to get the info. Just looking at durability in relation to the respective brands but I guess that's dependent on driving conditions

[dredman1]

Fellas, been looking for some new tyres for the GT lancer which carry the stock 18 inch rims. Called numerous places to obtain some good quality 215/45/18 tyres. The problem is that most places don't carry 215/45/18 and would only get slightly variations in profile and width.

Good info in Xecutive's post.

This was the same problem I had a couple months ago in my search for the OEM 215/45/18 size in any decent brand. I only found the size at one place - Wheels Plus (on the southbound lane of the highway near to Charlieville). But I believe it was a Nexen he said, which I wasn't interested in. Everywhere else had 225s or 235s, but no 215s.

Ended up bringing in a set on my own because of the limited availability of the OEM size in any decent brand locally

[NR8]

Would the 225/45/18 be too broad for the stock rims?

[A.W.O.L]

Why not jus go up to
225...
Thats wat I running wit no problem wat so ever.

[dredman1]

I know some of you advised me to do it, but then I saw a couple cars on the road with the 225s and I just found it looked a bit odd to me - just personal preference to not have a thinner sidewall for the possibility of bending the rim with our wonderful roads, and the opportunity to get some good tyres in the proper size popped up, so I went for it.

I might very well go the 225/40/18 route on my next upgrade after the OEM size I just got.

[JUS4SHO]

Ok will explain this again as I am seeing some off the guys not understanding tyre size. 215/45/18
215 is the width across the thread in mm. 45 is 45% of the width (in this case it's 45% of 215mm) this is the profile of the tyre. And well 18 is the wheel size.
By me using 235/40/18 I was able to retain the overall wheel circumference and profile hight. This will result in a negligible change in the odometer reading and profile hight (45% of 215 is a profile height of 96mm, where as 40% of 235 is 94mm. A 2 mm change in profile height is.negligible.
Hope this clear up some misconceptions.

[Xecutive]

^^^correct. A lot of people confuse the first number of the tyre 'code' as being the thickness of the wall when it's actually the width and the second digit is the ratio between width and height.

Ended up buying dunlops direzza dz101 225/45/18 for the car. Changed all four and they're pretty nice. Ride quality seems to be ok if not a little better because the other tyres were really worn. Not too much cabin noise either. Got them at a reasonable price as well. 860 each.

[dredman1]

Ok will explain this again as I am seeing some off the guys not understanding tyre size. 215/45/18
215 is the width across the thread in mm. 45 is 45% of the width (in this case it's 45% of 215mm) this is the profile of the tyre. And well 18 is the wheel size.
By me using 235/40/18 I was able to retain the overall wheel circumference and profile hight. This will result in a negligible change in the odometer reading and profile hight (45% of 215 is a profile height of 96mm, where as 40% of 235 is 94mm. A 2 mm change in profile height is.negligible.
Hope this clear up some misconceptions.

I understand the tyre measurements (not sure if your post was in response to mines).

I just find the 235s look too wide for the rim and give it a sort of off road/SUV look, and the 225s ,the ideal width IMHO, either too short with the 40 profile which will risk rim damage (although this size/aspect ratio looks damn good), or too tall with the 45 profile which will take away steering response and probably touch over bumps at highway speeds with a full car.

If I had to buy what's available locally, I'd go with the 225/40/18 as for me that size looks the best on the car, although it puts me at higher risk for rim damage.

To each his own though...

[tjaiscott]

Hey what modifications can i make to this vehicle and still keep my warranty.? Would they do anything over a k&n filter? I collecting car next week. Its a gls 1.6. Due to compression ratio and warranty i fear doing engine modifications.

[Albezel21]

k&n air filter (part no. 33-2392) will not void warranty. teknet in p.o.s. has it for a good price

[tjaiscott]

What are the improvments after installation?

[Albezel21]

higher CFM (Volume flow rate) 2 hp more (negligible IMHO) and for me most importantly.... never having to spend $600+ for a paper disposable airfilter ever 20k Km as the K&N Is washable and reusable. (assuming u already knew that) u'll probably never have to change ur filter for the life of the car.

[Xecutive]

This is just my experience with k&n drop in filters not sure if anyone had this same problem....
Purchased two filters to use in my Navara to interchange when the other was being cleaned. Would do the cleaning every 5000km just to make sure vehicle performance was maintained. The filter was cleaned according to instructions...let the degreaser/cleaner sit for awhile then rinse under a tap. Even held it up in the light to ensure that it was cleaned thoroughly. Allowed it to dry fully then replace the oil on it.

Unfortunately over a 2yr period while using them I found that the vehicle started to feel sluggish and produce some smoke. When I carried the vehicle to the firm for servicing I asked them to put in the original filter just to see if the k&n was the problem. Now the vehicle accelerates as it should and doesn't feel sluggish with no smoking issues. Just my opinion...

Would like to know if anyone is running the cold air typhoon intake on the gt lancers and their experience with it..

[tjaiscott]

Took the inone package so I dont have to pay for filters I believe.
Anyone took the inone package?

[dredman1]

This is just my experience with k&n drop in filters not sure if anyone had this same problem....
Purchased two filters to use in my Navara to interchange when the other was being cleaned. Would do the cleaning every 5000km just to make sure vehicle performance was maintained. The filter was cleaned according to instructions...let the degreaser/cleaner sit for awhile then rinse under a tap. Even held it up in the light to ensure that it was cleaned thoroughly. Allowed it to dry fully then replace the oil on it.

Unfortunately over a 2yr period while using them I found that the vehicle started to feel sluggish and produce some smoke. When I carried the vehicle to the firm for servicing I asked them to put in the original filter just to see if the k&n was the problem. Now the vehicle accelerates as it should and doesn't feel sluggish with no smoking issues. Just my opinion...

Would like to know if anyone is running the cold air typhoon intake on the gt lancers and their experience with it..

Could be light fumes from the filter oil covering the air flow sensor over time causing sluggishness. A simple cleaning of the sensor solves that.

Could also be that you over saturating the filter with the oil when applying it, limiting airflow.

I've had K&N filters in 4 different cars and never had problems with them (including the CY). It made no notable performance difference to me (either power or fuel economy) in any of my N/A cars. The turbo car though you definitely heard and felt a difference.

But I always go back to K&Ns with each new car because as Albezel21 said, I never have to buy another filter for the car.

[Xecutive]

Could be light fumes from the filter oil covering the air flow sensor over time causing sluggishness. A simple cleaning of the sensor solves that.

Could also be that you over saturating the filter with the oil when applying it, limiting airflow.

I've had K&N filters in 4 different cars and never had problems with them (including the CY). It made no notable performance difference to me (either power or fuel economy) in any of my N/A cars. The turbo car though you definitely heard and felt a difference.

But I always go back to K&Ns with each new car because as Albezel21 said, I never have to buy another filter for the car.

Good suggestions there. Never thought about that especially the over saturation of the oil.

[dredman1]

Guys I need to change my front rotors as it seems they're warped (getting vibration when braking).

I'm looking to upgrade from OEM with some sport rotors, but can anyone say if replacement rotors for the US spec 2008 Lancer GTS would work?

My car is a 2008 CY4A (4 wheel disc brakes with the 18" rims), and that GTS model seems to be the closest equivalent US model.

Just for anyone else's information, I can confirm that the brake rotors and pads for the US spec 2008 Lancer GTS model worked on my car (Galant Fortis Sport Navigation).

The brake rotor sizes are 11.57" x 1.02" (Front), and 11.89" x 0.39" (Rear).

[dredman1]

I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this...

My mechanic recommended that both the large and small cradle arm bushings on my car be changed.

I'm assuming the large one is the one labelled "10" in the pic below, and the small one is identified by the red circle (correct me if I'm wrong please).

I know the large one is available separately, but is the small one sold separately as well, or do I need to change the whole cradle arm for that one?

[star23]

Good day tuners does anyone have a set of the oem 16" hubcaps you all are willing to sell? I switched back to the steel rims for a while until my street is finished paved but one cap is missing and looks a bit awkward. Any help would be appreciated thanks.

[A.W.O.L]

I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this...

My mechanic recommended that both the large and small cradle arm bushings on my car be changed.

I'm assuming the large one is the one labelled "10" in the pic below, and the small one is identified by the red circle (correct me if I'm wrong please).

I know the large one is available separately, but is the small one sold separately as well, or do I need to change the whole cradle arm for that one?

U dont hav to change the whole arm cuz it should be a case of pressing out an press in a new 1
Get a second opinion jus in case

[Ted_v2]

Could press out and in easily as most vehicles.

[dredman1]

Thanks. I guess that means the smaller bushing is available to purchase separately (OEM Mitsubishi brand)?

I haven't found anywhere online yet that sells it though (only found the large ones so far).

Will give McEnearny parts dept a call to see if they sell it, although the couple times I called for info they never willing to give any unless I give them my vehicle number, which they won't have as it's RORO.

[Albezel21]

have u considered polyurethane?

[A.W.O.L]

Thanks. I guess that means the smaller bushing is available to purchase separately (OEM Mitsubishi brand)?

I haven't found anywhere online yet that sells it though (only found the large ones so far).

Will give McEnearny parts dept a call to see if they sell it, although the couple times I called for info they never willing to give any unless I give them my vehicle number, which they won't have as it's RORO.

Do wat I used to do wen I had my FU cs
Once u know the part number and they asking for number plate use 1 from a fren or a random 1 on the road...

[Ted_v2]

Basically yea.
Poly makes no sense unless it's whiteline or super pro

[dredman1]

have u considered polyurethane?

Yes, but I didn't want to risk the ride getting any firmer than stock. If the OEM bushings need replacing again too soon after I change them though, then I may look at polyurethane ones.

Thanks AWOL - will try that suggestion.

[NR8]

In my experiences with polyurethane bushings they rode the same as the oem ones. No noise, vibration, harshness. Both SuperPro and Energy Suspension on two different vehicle applications.

[Albezel21]

have u considered polyurethane?

Yes, but I didn't want to risk the ride getting any firmer than stock. If the OEM bushings need replacing again too soon after I change them though, then I may look at polyurethane ones.

Thanks AWOL - will try that suggestion.

Ok cool. I suppose ur on 18's.

[dredman1]

Ok cool. I suppose ur on 18's.

Correct

On a related note, I just got a reply to an earlier enquiry I sent to an online Mitsubishi parts dealer:

"Unfortunately that bushing is not supplied separately from the control arm itself."