And as GBTBT said, definitely invest in good brake pads.

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They say "Speed" kills... but IMHO dotishness does a much better job. My $0.02¢

how can it be trouble? explain.

and you SHOULD upgrade your MBC and PV.

you'll have longer brake pedal travel; poor braking response if system is mismatched.

More trouble as in it takes more time... if I had more time I'd like to upgrade my brake lines and get my rotors cross drilled and all of that. But the time it takes to get all of that done, compared to just going to the bamboo, buying larger brakes and installing them all in one morning.

That's all I meant by it's more trouble.

Besides why tell the guy not to bother getting bigger disks too when he already has to get new calipers? There's no disadvantage and it's not really much extra work.

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They say "Speed" kills... but IMHO dotishness does a much better job. My $0.02¢

brake lines should not take you more than a morning.

you need ZERO power tools. a 10mm and 12mm spanner/flare nut and your wheel spanner and jack to remove all your tyres.

- gravity bleed calipers

and if he's putting on calipers, where's the difficulty in changing pads one time.

Hey... not everyone has the time OR the money to perform large braking system upgrades on their car... I found that with a few hours work and $600 in parts, I improved the braking performance of my car substantially. I'm not talking theoretically here. Stock CK master cylinder and booster.... with CS disk and calipers in the front = real world improvement. That's all I'm saying.

If you think there's a better way to do it, heck there probably is. But from trial and error and not a lot of money I have a setup that works a lot better than before. That's all I needed.

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They say "Speed" kills... but IMHO dotishness does a much better job. My $0.02¢

Brake pads are always essential.

I'm not fighting you down man.

In fact do you know how much steel braided lines cost? Because yeah that does sound like a fairly easy upgrade, once the right ones are easily available.

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They say "Speed" kills... but IMHO dotishness does a much better job. My $0.02¢

i wouldn't recommend them if they weren't readily affordable. i just don't see the sense in short term fixes. especially if they are not 100% safe.

Do you have any idea of a ball park figure? Cuz I actually have no idea how much they cost but I've been thinking about it.

In respect to the fix being safe... I don't think that's an issue... replacing stock parts with stock parts. The CS parts are simply larger... it's the same design and bolt pattern. The same thing can be done with Mivec brake parts. Just nobody thinks of the CS brakes as 'performance' so they don't kill you in price.

I did not notice any increase in pedal travel before the brakes started to kick in... so I assume there is little or no difference in the size of the piston within the brake caliper. The real difference is in the size of the disks (both diameter and thickness), and therefore in the size of the caliper body to fit around the thicker disks. I think that's the reason the stock master cylinder works.

Are there any other safety concerns you have? Because I'm genuinely interested to hear... I drive around in my car everyday... I want to make sure it's safe.

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They say "Speed" kills... but IMHO dotishness does a much better job. My $0.02¢

And by the way... what's short term about upgrading to larger disks? That is a normal upgrade that many people think of.

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They say "Speed" kills... but IMHO dotishness does a much better job. My $0.02¢

a 13" spare will still work in front right?

I know a 14" will... never tried 13.

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They say "Speed" kills... but IMHO dotishness does a much better job. My $0.02¢

bumping this..how is it holding out and did anyone else did it?

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can't buy gas with this budget... WTB vehicle working on prayers

Still works perfectly... been running mintex pads, only changed pads once since the upgrade. No problems what so ever.

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They say "Speed" kills... but IMHO dotishness does a much better job. My $0.02¢

Just wondering, if the rear drums were switched to disks, what else besides the proportioning valve should be changed? Ever since I did the swap my pedal goes down half way before i get resistance and all I did was change the drums.

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can't buy gas with this budget... WTB vehicle working on prayers

Did some checking online and it seems that low pedal is caused by using disk/drum master cylinder instead of disk/disk. If this is true then which master cylinder is a straight bolt on?

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can't buy gas with this budget... WTB vehicle working on prayers

* Noted*

rly nice info here

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