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the starter makes contact (meshes) with the flex plate in a tranny...yes in some cases the manual starter may have a different spline or maybe further/nearer travel to crank the engine, i'm not exactly sure tho...what wrong with your starter, didn't your engine come with a manual gearbox, if so then go back with a manual starter

got 1 from a manual and confirmed its the same as the auto/tiptronic tranny. my starter is making random clicks but no tumble/engine starts...until after a few tries. so rather than service it, i bought 1. will service n keep the other as spare. yes it came with a manual tranny but i switched it to auto.

yea in some cases with other manufacturers the manual and auto starters are different...where u got your starter from? When you changed the engine, which engine/tranny mount brackets had to be modified....in the future I wanna put a GSR 93T but with a 2WD gearbox...so long now u said u was documenting d conversion, let's see it...

nah well i didn't document anything cus i didn't get the time to run back and forth by my mech. n the build took way past 3 wks... (1mth 2 wks)...due to sourcing parts. didn't take no pics eitha .
but the left side engine mount was all that had to be modified. my mech jus welded a bracket and re-used the same mounts from my 4g18 engine.
axles were gotten from a galant vrg as the stock GSR were too long. axle sockets for the galant and gsr are the same because 1 of mine needed replacing when i mounted the galant's axles.
used a 4g92 tiptronic mivec tranny along with ecu (car has both engine and tranny ecu). the electrician rewired it using the gsr harness and a ck ip panel as he said the sockets behind the ck panel and gsr harness matched up as opposed to using my oem ip panel. used back my 4g18 compressor as well.
the front of the chassis (below the numberplate but to the sides of the lower grille by the fogs) had to be cut to accommodate my 2.5" i/c piping which was reduced to 2 1/4 when entering the engine bay from underneath by the battery due to the small space. that was the best route we cud allocate but i'm sure other ppl wud wanna relocate the battery to the trunk to bypass this obstacle.
everything remained stock except for the exhaust which was redone to 2.5" from manifold to rear and a 2.5 inlet - 4 inch outlet muffler was used with a resonator to quieten the sound. sounds deep n not farty like most hondas.
fuel pump replaced by walbro 255 intank.
i need a FPR as the car runs rich sometimes and cuts off when i lift my foot from the gas pedal on a hill. prolly my MAF sensor needs cleaning.
A NRG voltage stabilizer and grounding kit was employed but i stil feel unsatisfied using it as opposed to my original big 3 with 4 gauge wire. wud check up on that in the coming wks.
I/C is 28"x7"x2.5". Air filter- HKS Mushroom but i replaced it with an K&N big bore. no difference noted though.

pulls somewhat nice but my lifters needs replacing (haven't done so yet) and wanna upgrade the stock turbo to that of an evo 3 or similar.

was wondering if there is an auto LSD available for this tranny as to get power down to both wheels as opposed to going manual transmission.

anyhow, there's not much headache involved as you may think, jus the sourcing/replacing of the older ck gsr parts and price would be the only keep back as opposed to having the newer GDI 93t. stil haven't regretted going the GSR way as opposed to the GDI way altho the GDi 93T wud be bolt for bolt and straight4ward once u buying a frontcut. again, finding the parts in event of any problems/breakage wud be hard...if not Expensive...just as other GSR owners...

also, tuners that has the same GSR setup installed, can u say what mods can be safely done without having a management system installed?

RAYBIC...tell us how ur build went!!!

isn't that mivec tiptronic tranny supposed to be LSD?
finding the parts (new) won't be that hard...as u say it would jus be expensive becuz u shipping from japan...I want to locate a complete 4G18 gearbox conversion out of a CS so all the pedals and shifter would swap bolt for bolt and install a phantom grip LSD kit on it, then deal with putting in the GSR 93T...but I doing it good, meaning servicing everything possible and changing whatever parts so I wouldn't run into any major problems...would be rel down time but it would be worth it

so after a long three weeks I finally got back the CS from the painters. Will post pictures as soon as I finish the final touches

anyone here ever did a SR swap in their cs lancer? i have a few questions

no eh! chek nissan forums

Changed front, back and transmission mount and getting a vibration on drive at idle, anyone know what can cause this? Im wondering if not the engine mount close to the timing cover side, it could be a bad back mount i got? But someone also said its possible the engine mount is bad, which is teh onyl one i not change. Thats the one on the driveside of the engine.

4G93T GDi

When i come to a slow down or stop at lights and have it on D while holding brakes its vibrating but on neutral or park, its not doing it. While driving the car it does not vibrate.

Computerz & Parts Guy wrote:Changed front, back and transmission mount and getting a vibration on drive at idle, anyone know what can cause this? Im wondering if not the engine mount close to the timing cover side, it could be a bad back mount i got? But someone also said its possible the engine mount is bad, which is teh onyl one i not change. Thats the one on the driveside of the engine.

4G93T GDi

When i come to a slow down or stop at lights and have it on D while holding brakes its vibrating but on neutral or park, its not doing it. While driving the car it does not vibrate.

Definitely is the engine mount. Change the other one and you should be good. Everything you said here was happening to me. When I changed the engine mount, it all stopped.

sound boy 64 wrote:anyone here ever did a SR swap in their cs lancer? i have a few questions

na bai, no crossbreeding here

i change rear transmission and cross member no vibration since check you rear engine mount again

fellas have a set of front and back disc brakes for cs2\cs3 the front is the same size is the evo 3 ones, its 4 x 100 its bigger than the normal stock ones. selling the set for 2500 only thing is i have them on for bout 1 year when i did my swap. once u buying it ill take them out, want to upgrade to something bigger.

sound boy 64 wrote:anyone here ever did a SR swap in their cs lancer? i have a few questions

I have a padna who did it? what you want to know?

Ok guys here goes:

Got back the car Friday night and everything seems to be in order. My rough idle at start up is no more and I guess it was associated with my blown head gasket. Mech showed me the old one where it was blown. He said that one cylinder was leaking into the other and hence the loss of compression. So far every thing seems ok, but I gonna monitor all week and keep you guys posted.

On another note, I have attached the pics for the grounding I did in my car. I'm not Peter Parker, so please excuse my pics..

I hope my pics and description are enough for you guys. I don't think I could be any more clear than this.

It's a cheap mod and worth it. What you should do is take note of the electrical functioning of your car before you do it and measure the improvement afterwards. That's what I did.

Also, all grounding points should be properly cleaned, sand paper and a bit of elbow grease will do just fine.

and alt to batt? i used 4ga n it worked sweet!

Biggs3ne wrote:

sound boy 64 wrote:anyone here ever did a SR swap in their cs lancer? i have a few questions

I have a padna who did it? what you want to know?

would the fuel pump work back?
which mounts would need major mods?
would the shifter work back?
axels i could figure that out

looking for a left side mirror? anybody has?

geometron wrote:and alt to batt? i used 4ga n it worked sweet!

The Last pic has the alt charge wire upgrade to the 4ga, and yes it does work sweet as you stated.

I had to buy a coil pack on Saturday because the stem broke off the old one and got stuck in the hole. All I need is the coil stem and the old one would be as good as new. Does any one have a coil stem jut lying around by chance.

Biggs3ne wrote:

geometron wrote:and alt to batt? i used 4ga n it worked sweet!

The Last pic has the alt charge wire upgrade to the 4ga, and yes it does work sweet as you stated.

please explain how it "works sweet"

well u see upgrading existing grounds/charging wires with proper brand wires (stinger/shok industries), leads to an overall grounding/power supply to all your cars accessories. think of having a 1" hose and 2" hose and the results of water flowing through it . capacity,speed of transmitting wud be increased yah? same goes for the big 3. when i did mine with 0ga stinger, i noticed my lights never dimmed when i played music and the elimination of hissing/engine noise on the receiver. ppl reports that it improves throttle, fuel consumption and whole bunch of odda things just by this simple procedure. if u haven't done it yet, i suggest u do! its worth it!

anyone knows by chance if the seats from a cs can work in a ck lancer by chance?

Nice work there Biggs. Did you use 4ga throughout?

geometron wrote:well u see upgrading existing grounds/charging wires with proper brand wires (stinger/shok industries), leads to an overall grounding/power supply to all your cars accessories. think of having a 1" hose and 2" hose and the results of water flowing through it . capacity,speed of transmitting wud be increased yah? same goes for the big 3. when i did mine with 0ga stinger, i noticed my lights never dimmed when i played music and the elimination of hissing/engine noise on the receiver. ppl reports that it improves throttle, fuel consumption and whole bunch of odda things just by this simple procedure. if u haven't done it yet, i suggest u do! its worth it!

throw up an engine bay pic na???

BrotherHood wrote:Nice work there Biggs. Did you use 4ga throughout?

4ga throughout indeed. I believe the stock grounding wire is 16ga or something so and it's very thin wire. Like Geo said, bigger thicker wire = improved grounding and electrical functioning of your ride. Like Geo, my lights are brighter than they were before, the grounding will take away that annoying engine sound from your tweeters, my idle use to drop off ridiculously when I put on headlights and now it just drops a tad,just a tad, throttle response has improved as well. I am yet to measure any improvement in fuel consumption, not too sure if there is any correlation between fuel consumption and grounding.

All I would say is that it won't hurt to upgrade the ground wires in your vehicle and it's a simple DIY. Also, keep in mind that our cars are heavily dependent on the electrical system as well, and good grounding is vital for the healthy functioning of any electrical system.

geometron wrote:well u see upgrading existing grounds/charging wires with proper brand wires (stinger/shok industries), leads to an overall grounding/power supply to all your cars accessories. think of having a 1" hose and 2" hose and the results of water flowing through it . capacity,speed of transmitting wud be increased yah? same goes for the big 3. when i did mine with 0ga stinger, i noticed my lights never dimmed when i played music and the elimination of hissing/engine noise on the receiver. ppl reports that it improves throttle, fuel consumption and whole bunch of odda things just by this simple procedure. if u haven't done it yet, i suggest u do! its worth it!

well I was supposed to do the Big 3 when I installed music but never did it yet, installer was rel stickin, it was discussed with him and I bought wire (Stinger) and ring terminals for it but after d install he come and say oh u hadda do that by d electrician, I wasnt goin to fight up. All he did was run a new ground with 4 ga from battery to chassis...all I hadda do now is run an additional wire from alternator to positive on battery and from engine ground on block to chassis...don't you think 0 ga for the alternator is too big?

yea 0ga is overdoing it but u get more strands within the 0ga that the 4ga, so more is better right? ...
my zero used to werk noice... til the transplant n that stoopid 8 ga nrg rubbish kit

aye whammmin fellas i sayy lemme holla at allyuh i have for sale a k&n drop in air filter for the cs/ck lancers i had it in my car for about 3 months i did a engine swap and the set up different so i calling 200 for it ....paid 500 for teknet so give meh a buzz 682-8871 or 385-7555 ...btw the big 3 woking bess

For those who are still in doubt about grounding their ride:

Grounding your car - DIY ground kit
[url]http://forums.trinituner.com/forums/vie ... hp?t=29945[url]

sound boy 64 wrote:

Biggs3ne wrote:

sound boy 64 wrote:anyone here ever did a SR swap in their cs lancer? i have a few questions

I have a padna who did it? what you want to know?

would the fuel pump work back?
which mounts would need major mods?
would the shifter work back?
axels i could figure that out

1. The fuel pump will work.
2. Your Mech will have to build a bracket for the Left and right Mount. Engine and Tranny mount I guess. Not sure what he meant by left and right.
3.The shifter would work.
4. B14 SR20 axles would do just fine.

I once considered this and thanks to the tuners on this forum I did not follow through. Best thing to do is save and buy a car with a bigger engine and more power if speed is what you looking for.

Good luck if you decide to go ahead. The choice is yours.