The Mazda 3 thread

[rockey]

Anybody know how to reset the car to talk in Japanese when turn on..the Japanese woman voice stop talking after pressing some nubs to the side :/.. Miss hearing she talk..it's the basic stock cd deck

[pimp]

bu,mmp

[rockey]

Mbump

[bt50]

Guys looking for the MC for the mazda 3 PCH series. Southern sales dont have any in stock. Any suggestions. Thanks

[pimp]

tuners...
my mazda 3 was givin some idling issues, so i went to a mechanic an he scrapped the IAC valve...
upon doin so, he found ELECTRICAL TAPE wrapped up inside it!!
so he removed it, serviced the throttle body an mounted back up...
car is workin fine now...
weird huh?

[xNeXuSx]

Guys looking for the MC for the mazda 3 PCH series. Southern sales dont have any in stock. Any suggestions. Thanks

I have a 2007 OEM brake master cylinder. If you're still looking for one PM me.

[rockey]

Mazda 3 (abs) and (power steering light) came on also the fan not spinning? Advice please

[Wildcard26]

Mazda 3 (abs) and (power steering light) came on also the fan not spinning? Advice please

Get it scanned.

[rockey]

Mazda 3 (abs) and (power steering light) came on also the fan not spinning? Advice please

Get it scanned.

Now all the lights coming on. As I turn the key ignition on the "ON" position without starting and when I actually start it disappears any one had this problem I'm guessing it could be a failing alternator?

[xNeXuSx]

Now all the lights coming on. As I turn the key ignition on the "ON" position without starting and when I actually start it disappears any one had this problem I'm guessing it could be a failing alternator?

This is normal.

As for the rest, you could probably get enough help here to solve the problem, but that would require a lot of questions being asked and answered. Take Wildcard26's advice and get it scanned.

Funny thing is I saw this happen to someone already, while I was by my mechanic. Dude put brake fluid in the power steering reservoir and vice versa. Same lights came on and then stress.

[bestbuytt]

I am having a problem with my Mazda 3 2007. When I start the engine will tumble but will not start on the first try. On the second tumble it will start but will idle very rough, that you could feel the engine vibrating a little. It would idle like it want to cut off. If left to rough idle it will smooth itself out soon. If you cut off and start for a third time it will start up normal. Also if the engine is cold or hot it will not start on the first try. Any one can tell me whats going on? Beside this problem, the car works fine. Already got the throttle body and idle sensor cleaned.

[bestbuytt]

PLEASE DELETE

[dredman1]

I am having a problem with my Mazda 3 2007. When I start the engine will tumble but will not start on the first try. On the second tumble it will start but will idle very rough, that you could feel the engine vibrating a little. It would idle like it want to cut off. If left to rough idle it will smooth itself out soon. If you cut off and start for a third time it will start up normal. Also if the engine is cold or hot it will not start on the first try. Any one can tell me whats going on? Beside this problem, the car works fine. Already got the throttle body and idle sensor cleaned.

A similar problem was discussed early on in the thread. Could read here viewtopic.php?f=35&t=167754&p=4930291&hilit=idle#p4915960 and try some of the suggestions made in the numerous posts on the page.

[rockey]

Now all the lights coming on. As I turn the key ignition on the "ON" position without starting and when I actually start it disappears any one had this problem I'm guessing it could be a failing alternator?

This is normal.

As for the rest, you could probably get enough help here to solve the problem, but that would require a lot of questions being asked and answered. Take Wildcard26's advice and get it scanned.

Funny thing is I saw this happen to someone already, while I was by my mechanic. Dude put brake fluid in the power steering reservoir and vice versa. Same lights came on and then stress.

Kindah strange to me
normally only 2 lights would show up before I start which was abs,brakes..now they all appear :/ but thanks a lot il look into this

[konartis]

two problems lately :
1)when i start my car, idles low, then picks up about 2 secs after that and runs normal....the car jerks alot also while starting
2) hearing a kinda hovering sound when driving, especially on the highway

any suggestions? tanx

[originalbling]

^^ u checked plugs, service throttle body, iac valve etc?

hovering sound... tyres? bearings? what about axle?

[konartis]

^^ u checked plugs, service throttle body, iac valve etc?

hovering sound... tyres? bearings? what about axle?

thinking about doing a service this weekend, mabe next week, mechanic told me today that the bearings might need changing also, didnt think about the axel, whats the price for the bearings tho?

[originalbling]

cant say. never had to change any yet.

anybody ever went tru the task of changing cabin AC filters? need to change mines but from the looks of the youtube vids it doesnt seem simple

[dredman1]

2) hearing a kinda hovering sound when driving, especially on the highway

any suggestions? tanx

Could be the tyres cupped as well.

I had that "wooing" sound at highway speeds and thought it was the wheel bearings.

I ended up needing to change tyres as well and after buying and installing (brand new, not FU) the noise went completely.

It started back a couple years later when the tyres got worn, and when I changed them the noise went again.

*shrugs

[rockey]

2) hearing a kinda hovering sound when driving, especially on the highway

any suggestions? tanx

Could be the tyres cupped as well.

I had that "wooing" sound at highway speeds and thought it was the wheel bearings.

I ended up needing to change tyres as well and after buying and installing (brand new, not FU) the noise went completely.

It started back a couple years later when the tyres got worn, and when I changed them the noise went again.

*shrugs

Has that same wooing noise ..but it's not the wheel bearing had it checked ..it cud be my TYRES got 17" low profile

Also chase village auto got substitute wheel bearing for mazda 3 @ 650 each and around $1400 for oem

[konartis]

well my tires have been looking a bit worn...bought from new, was going to change in december, wud try it and see first

[Wildcard26]

Yeah cupped tires. I got this issue. Mazda 3 has been typical for shitty wear along with the Mazda 5 and I think the 6.

[xtinguisher]

Hey guys im looking to buy a 2014 mazda 3 Foreign Used. Anyone could recommend a mechanic in the north west area who can service those vehicles. Would greatly appreciate a feedback. Thanks!

[NR8]

Hey guys, we've recently acquired a local 2007 Mazda 3 with the z6 1.6 engine and I'm planning to service it this weekend. Hoping you all can advise me accordingly;
Can anyone tell me where exactly on the block is the oil filter located? Is it accessible from above or only below? Which oil filter model do you guys use? I use the Purolator L14459 on my BJ so I assume this can work on the 3 as well?
What sizes are the engine oil and atf drain bolts? Where on the tranny sump pan is the drain bolt located?
Which NGK plugs does this engine use? BKR5E-11? Can regular copper plugs work or is platinum/irridium recommended?

[dredman1]

Can anyone tell me where exactly on the block is the oil filter located? Is it accessible from above or only below? Which oil filter model do you guys use? I use the Purolator L14459 on my BJ so I assume this can work on the 3 as well?
What sizes are the engine oil and atf drain bolts? Where on the tranny sump pan is the drain bolt located?
Which NGK plugs does this engine use? BKR5E-11? Can regular copper plugs work or is platinum/irridium recommended?

Oil filter only accessible from below the vehicle. The stone shield has an opening via which you can see and reach it, but it is a lot easier (and a lot less messier) to just remove the stone shield to change the filter and oil. I use the K&N HP1004 oil filter. Not sure about the L14459 Purolator as I've only ever used K&N on mines, but a cross reference search on K&N's website does show that they match.

Engine oil and trans drain bolts are 19mm. Trans drain bolt located on bottom rear of the sump pan, just in front the left lower cradle arm. If you're draining the trans fluid, wrap a plastic bag around the cradle arm to avoid getting trans fluid all over it.

Plugs are NGK Iridium BKR5EIX-II. Or if you're going Denso, the SK16PR-E11 or IK16 or VK16 or SK16PR-E11. The car comes with iridium plugs from the factory so I'd recommend going back the same route. Also for the peace of mind of not having to change them more frequently as the air filter/ECU box on top of the engine is a PITA to move, which you'll have to do to get access to the plugs.

[NR8]

Thanks a lot for the response! Can you advise on how to remove the air filter/ecu box on top of the engine?
Also, do you use oem or aftermarket air filters? If aftermarket, which brand and model?

[konartis]

Thanks a lot for the response! Can you advise on how to remove the air filter/ecu box on top of the engine?
Also, do you use oem or aftermarket air filters? If aftermarket, which brand and model?

there are clips holding the filter box down, remove and it opens, use the OEM filter, i wasnt getting the oem and used a aftermarket and was a bit bigger/thicker and the enclosure was a problem to close

[NR8]

I think I read this in the thread before but just to make sure, the tranny takes 4 quarts of atf when doing a drain and refill right?

[dredman1]

There's a difference between opening the air filter box and moving it. To open it to change the air filter just unclip as konartis said. I use the K&N drop in (part # 33-2924).

To actually move it to access the plugs there are 3 bolts holding the assembly down which you'll have to remove (10 or 12mm can't recall offhand) on the front, rear and and extreme left (driver's) side. Once these are removed, just move the whole thing aside and you'll see the coil assembly. Just to remove the coil and swap out the plugs. You may also have to loosen the clamp holding the intake tube on the throttle body to allow the airbox assembly to move further for more room to reach the last plugs (the PITA part).

The trans drain and refill takes just under 3 qts if I recall correctly. 4 qts should be more than enough. DO NOT OVERFILL!

[NR8]

dredman1, the space between the low and high marks on the 3 atf dipstick repesents one quart right? And engine has to be running to correctly check atf level? Using Amsoil Signature Series atf.

Planning to replace coolant with Zerex too.