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acesinghit
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Postby acesinghit » May 24th, 2008, 3:59 pm

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Postby acesinghit » May 24th, 2008, 4:06 pm

wanna try for a 2001 bj 1.5 zl-ve


yours tuned for more HP and its lighter.......u auto or manual? stock or modded? i only see the mazda3 superior to your vehicle on cornering (performance wise). Never saw zl-ve run but wouldn't dare run the fs-ze :wink:

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Postby Rainman » May 24th, 2008, 4:58 pm

what type of transmission fluid does the 1.6 mazda 3 carry?

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Postby acesinghit » May 25th, 2008, 9:49 am

This material applies to both the LF (2.0L) and the L3 (2.3L) engined-vehicles.

The American Petroleum Institute (API) Service rating of a transmission oil refers to the amount of extreme pressure (EP) additives it contains. An API Service GL-1 oil contains no EP additives and a GL-4 Service oil contains about 1/2 the additives of a GL-5 Service oil. EP additives are composed mostly of sulfur/phosphorus compounds that can harm yellow metals such as copper or brass that are contained in some synchros. Mazda3 synchros do not contain yellow metals and consequently, as clearly stated in the M/T section of the FSM, either GL-4 or GL-5 oils are completely safe to use. The API service rating is completely independent of the viscosity rating so, for example, an SAE 75W-90 oil could have a GL-4 or a GL-5 or even a GL-1 Service rating.

In point of fact, API categories GL-1, GL-2, GL-3, and GL-6 were declared inactive (obsolete) by an SAE Technical Committee in 1995, although oils may still be marketed with these designations. Concomitantly, ASTM International (American Society for Testing and Materials) does not plan to maintain the performance tests associated with these categories, as in a number of cases these tests can no longer be run because parts or test installations are not available.

On the assumption that most of you reading this want to upgrade from a mineral to a synthetic oil, in addition to listing the transmission oil specs, I'll provide a partial list of fully synthetic oil alternatives that I believe to be true synthetics. In order to qualify, the manufacturer must specify that it is derived from Group IV (PAO) or Group V (Polyol ester) base stocks. It is NOT enough simply to state that the oil is synthetic, fully synthetic or 100% synthetic. After all, Castrol Syntec claims to be fully synthetic, but we all know it to be a hydrocracked mineral oil. I'll focus mostly on Red Line oil because not only is it my brand of choice but, more importantly, they provide more comprehensive data than can be found on other oil company websites.

Manual Transmission (G35M-R)
The capacity is ~ 3.03 quarts (2.87L). The FSM specifies SAE 75W-90 (all season) or SAE 80W-90 if the temperature never falls below 50 deg F (10 deg C). Suitable synthetic replacement oils are as follows:

Amsoil Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube; SAE 75W-90, API GL-4. This is Amsoil's currently recommended oil for this application.
http://www.amsoil.com

Fuchs-Silkolene: Silkolene Silktran SYN 5; SAE 75W-90, API GL-4/5. A fully synthetic M/T oil that, according to the manufacturer, is ideal for road and competition limited-slip differentials. May be used where conventional SAE 90, 85W-90 or 80W-90 lubricants are recommended.
http://www.silkoleneoil.com
Fuchs-Silkolene is a British/German company. For a list of distributors in North America, go to:
http://www.fuchs-oil.com/worldwide.1.html?ziel=9&EN

Motul Gear 300 SAE 75W-90; API GL-5
http://www.motul.com
Motul is a French company with many distributors in North America as a Google search will indicate.

Red Line MT-90; SAE 75W-90, API GL-4. According to Red Line, it has the appropriate coefficient of friction for most manual transmission synchronizers. Red Line claims that many gear oils, engine oils and ATFs are too slippery for proper synchro engagement.
http://www.redlineoil.com

Torco RTF Racing Transmission Fluid: SAE 75W-90; SAE 80W-90; API GL-6. According to the manufacturer, this oil, derived from Group IV/V base stocks, is suitable for both racing and street use. As noted above, API GL-6 is an obsolete classification. It would provide a level of of EP additive protection far in excess of anything our M/Ts currently require.
http://torcooil.com

Automatic Transmissions
FN4A-EL (4-speed)
The capacity is 7.6 quarts (7.2L) after a complete fluid removal. The FSM specifies Type ATF M-V.

FS5A-EL (5-speed)
The capacity is 8.6 quarts (8.14L) after complete fluid removal. Again, the FSM specifies Type ATF M-V.

Suitable synthetic replacement fluids for both types of transmission are as follows:

Amsoil Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid; replaces Dexron II and III, Mercon and Mercon V (M-V).

Red Line D4 ATF. Interestingly, this is a GL-4 rated oil, one of the two ATFs I know of that are so rated. According to Red Line, D4 ATF is suitable for use where Dexron III, or Mercon fluids are recommended. It is also designed to satisfy the improved low temperature requirements which will be in the new Dexron IV specification and the improved shear-stability requirements which will be part of the new Mercon specifications.

Red Line D6 ATF. It's designed to be a replacement for Dexron VI, Ford Mercon SP, Toyota WS and M-B NAG-2 fluids. According to Red Line, it provides the best low-temperature shiftability in both A/Ts and M/Ts which require, or can use, ATFs. It is also a GL-4 rated oil which satisfies SAE 70W-75 gear requirements.

Torco HiVis Automatic Transmission Fluid. The manufacturer states that this oil, derived from Group IV/V base stocks, is suitable for both racing and street use. Meets all current Dexron and Mercon requirements as well as that of other types.

Finally, there are other transmission oils marketed as synthetic but I have only listed here those that I believe are true synthetic oils (i.e. those that specify they are derived from either Group IV (PAO) or Group V (Polyol ester) base stocks.

Deletions:
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-90; API GL-5 and Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF have been removed from our list of M/T and ATF lubes believed to be fully synthetic. Discussions on the various oil forums and revised information on Mobil 1's website indicate that the oil is no longer derived solely from Group IV (PAO) base stocks but rather from hydrocracked Group III petroleum stocks with some PAO stock added as a finishing component to enhance overall performance. Thus Mobil 1 is no longer considered a true synthetic by the standards we're applying here.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

the FN4A-EL 4-speed activematic is the same technology found in the 1.6, 1.5 and 1.4 versions based on the trannies from the 2.0 and 2.3 versions.

Read from the automatic transmission heading especially and compare what Southern Sales telling you or a tranny specialist.

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Postby acesinghit » May 25th, 2008, 9:57 am

rainman check Winston Mahabir owner of Winston Transmission Service & Supplies Tel: 697-AUTO(2886). He's located @ Sunset Avenue off Dumfries Road, Rambert Village, San Fernando. He's ah boss in trannies.........Jenton want nothing wit he.

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Postby ek4ever » May 26th, 2008, 2:51 pm

x2floor wrote:
x2floor.......yuh full of shite


take ur time hoss.....things change fast in here long b4 yuh vtec look 2 kickeen........got nothing 2 contribute? :out: or go fcuk yuhself


I contribute on the blacktop....but then again yuh done say yuh not runnin B16A..... :vamp:

That list of cars that you say couldn't beat yuh shows that yuh full ah sheit. Anytime yuh want mih padna will bring his Bora and rinse yuh out. He might even give yuh a couple car lengths start

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Postby red bwoy » May 26th, 2008, 6:16 pm

ek4ever wrote:
x2floor wrote:
x2floor.......yuh full of shite


take ur time hoss.....things change fast in here long b4 yuh vtec look 2 kickeen........got nothing 2 contribute? :out: or go fcuk yuhself


I contribute on the blacktop....but then again yuh done say yuh not runnin B16A..... :vamp:

That list of cars that you say couldn't beat yuh shows that yuh full ah sheit. Anytime yuh want mih padna will bring his Bora and rinse yuh out. He might even give yuh a couple car lengths start

take yuh time hoss leh de man deal wid ah lil semi stock 1.5 mazda first nah den yuh go get your share :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:

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Postby Rainman » May 27th, 2008, 6:25 am

does anyone have an owner's manual for a 2004 mazda 3 1.6? willing to buy!

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Postby Nali » May 27th, 2008, 7:24 am

Rainman, you can download a copy of this website - //www.analogstereo.com/mazda_3_owners_manual.htm :wink:

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Postby Rainman » May 27th, 2008, 7:47 am

yeh i checked that, it's for the USDM Mazda 3

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Postby acesinghit » May 27th, 2008, 9:37 am

I contribute on the blacktop....but then again yuh done say yuh not runnin B16A.....

That list of cars that you say couldn't beat yuh shows that yuh full ah sheit. Anytime yuh want mih padna will bring his Bora and rinse yuh out. He might even give yuh a couple car lengths start


ent the blacktop in GT4 too? so ur got something to brag about wrt your B16A?? oh well.....the 1.7 SOHC VTEC VTi-S and the new model 1.6 SOHC i-VTEC EXi Civics still want nothing with the B16A4/A5 SiR.

Wrt the Bora........ur pimp has the 2.0 or 1.6? Would I get the opportunity first (if its the 1.6 version) to allow a QG15DE or obtain agent fofo's GA15DE Wingroad and send that problematic sorry arse excuse for a german car POS back to well.....uhmm...GERMANY? Yuh sure he not modded? How much transmissions he blow already 6 going on 7? I prefer yuh ek this and ek that talk but when a honda boy start with a vw is bess I hold my comments for my superdupa Kia Rio to rinse his arse.

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Postby red bwoy » May 27th, 2008, 3:23 pm

rainman wrote:yeh i checked that, it's for the USDM Mazda 3

you can still use it for reference the only real differences wld be engine size cruise control and maybe some minor electrical suspension an stuff basically de same

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Postby Rainman » May 27th, 2008, 4:02 pm

well the reason i wanted it is for the recommended service materials section for the local engine and tranny. motor oil tranny oil etc.....

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Postby Rainman » May 27th, 2008, 4:03 pm

soooo. does anyone have it?

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Postby red bwoy » May 27th, 2008, 5:55 pm

even dat would be the same except for the grade of oil we use i typically use full synthetic multi grade 10w30mobil 1 for my bj and for de tranny which is de same as de activ matic on de 3 i use redline high heat tranny oil maztune has a good link with dat regarding de oil my engine tuned for power de 3 vvt engine tuned for economy so you could prolly use de 20w 50 its a matter of driving habit i guess cause i find 20w50 too heavy my engine does feel lazy wid dat

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Postby ek4ever » May 28th, 2008, 7:31 am

x2floor wrote:
I contribute on the blacktop....but then again yuh done say yuh not runnin B16A.....

That list of cars that you say couldn't beat yuh shows that yuh full ah sheit. Anytime yuh want mih padna will bring his Bora and rinse yuh out. He might even give yuh a couple car lengths start


ent the blacktop in GT4 too? so ur got something to brag about wrt your B16A?? oh well.....the 1.7 SOHC VTEC VTi-S and the new model 1.6 SOHC i-VTEC EXi Civics still want nothing with the B16A4/A5 SiR.

Wrt the Bora........ur pimp has the 2.0 or 1.6? Would I get the opportunity first (if its the 1.6 version) to allow a QG15DE or obtain agent fofo's GA15DE Wingroad and send that problematic sorry arse excuse for a german car POS back to well.....uhmm...GERMANY? Yuh sure he not modded? How much transmissions he blow already 6 going on 7? I prefer yuh ek this and ek that talk but when a honda boy start with a vw is bess I hold my comments for my superdupa Kia Rio to rinse his arse.


It's a 1.6 5fwd and it does run very well...stock.....BTW I ran with a 116i up to 210kmh already....the 3 will ketch it's arse to reach that speed. Yuh want to post up yuh beat this and that....how many of those drivers were actually taking you on? The 3 is a good car but the 1.6 auto is a slug...every review will say that. I drive one on a daily basis for work and I can attest it slow....most of the Europeans will easily hand it a good cut arse.

Oh and btw you said you not gonna run a B16A .....never said I had one...but if u interested....it's an EK4 with B16B..... :lol:

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Postby acesinghit » May 28th, 2008, 9:58 am

^^^^so u talking top end eh? well, the mazda 3 speedo runs past 220 and it have room for 230kmph but i doubt it'll pass 180kmph due to speed limiter. 1.6 auto Bora on stock wheels vs 1.6 auto 3 on stock wheels the 3 WILL accelerate faster and same if equipped with manual trannies. Speed limiter talk was spoken about in another thread of mine where I doubt any mazda 3 achieved those 'colossal' speeds.

nevertheless........how about a Hyundai Elantra XD model? I gotta admit the Bora (it was a green PBK) got some speed where it passed 200 but the underdog Elantra did reach such a speed and clipped a Bora which had a huge head start. For some strange reason however I feel those korean vehicles have no speed limiter because as I mentioned Rio in my previous post, we did over 200....about 205 to be exact and the thing could have gone a few more in a Rental Rio with 1.6 VVT engine and auto tranny. Imagine yuh in a speed limited Nissan running some pretty good acceleration numbers yet a lil while later on a clear stretch of road, yuh see ah Rio just inching ahead. :shock:

Oh and btw you said you not gonna run a B16A .....never said I had one...but if u interested....it's an EK4 with B16B.....


yeah I interested in getting 25 car lengths.......BUT i can borrow a 4G92 MIVEC equipped CK4 with 5FWD and give u a run for your moonay! Lastly, never heard of a Bora with 5FWD tranny locally stock from Best Motors Ltd. educate please.

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Postby ek4ever » May 28th, 2008, 6:50 pm

x2floor.....very few 5fwd Boras were sold in Trinidad....but I'll tell you those things have serious pace....but even my other padner auto used to see 200kmh easy....for a 1.6 that VW have some serious pace....like most europeans...lot's of pace even with a not so impressive sounding engine....BMW famous for that.

And it's not just top end i'm talking about....from 160 when u mash down in the 3 it doesn't accelerate anywhere like a Bora and nowhere close to a 116i....that 1.6 runs out of steam when it around 160kmh

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Postby acesinghit » May 29th, 2008, 8:56 am

like most europeans...lot's of pace even with a not so impressive sounding engine....BMW famous for that.


u mean dem 4-cylinder BMW engines right? Because almost every single automobile magazine praise BMW for the best sounding 6 and 8 cylinder engines in the world!

I still maintain that the 3 will accelerate faster than the BMW 116i and VW Bora 1.6 but up on the rev band I am not aware of what the 3 will do compared to the Bora and 116i but in theory I believe they're heavier. Perhaps the gearing on the 2 Euro cars are better than this Jap. Strange enough though is that the 3 does have SV-T, why does it run out of steam so early and struggle past 160? Is it that the ECU was programmed to do that sheit until the fuel cut-off kicks in?

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Postby acesinghit » May 29th, 2008, 9:35 am

Volkswagen Bora 1.6 manual:

99HP (141Nm of torque), curb weight 1237kg

Mazda 3 1.6 manual

103-106HP (145-146Nm of torque), curb weight 1173kg

the auto Mazda 3 1.6 is 1197kg in curb weight still lighter than the Bora with manual tranny and the Bora will be even heavier with the 4-speed auto tranny. The Mazda is superior hands down and lets not talk about suspension, braking and steering response yet :mrgreen:

even so those specs for 2008 is not impressive but they were back in 2003 when this Mazda engine came out. The VW was still not all that impressive for model year 1998/1999 when that Bora body-style came out.

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Postby ek4ever » May 30th, 2008, 11:09 pm

Bora 1.6 SR engine is 109hp....but aside from that you can't just look at figures....gearing plays an important part as well as torque, hp peaks transmission efficiency and power loss to driveline.

And yes I was talking about the BMW 4s...very impressive performance for a 115hp motor but again this is where gearing plays a part since the 116i is a 5 speed auto plus all those other variables i mentioned before

My take on this is that european sedans are tuned regardless of model to be able to get up to and maintain fairly high speeds for safety reasons when entering and driving on high speed european roadways.

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Postby GANESH » June 1st, 2008, 1:06 am

fellas a friend of mine from school buy a 3 and thinking of converting to a rx-7 engine (he watchin too much tv!!) but he want's to build an ultimate sleeper, a clean black 3
with a kick a@@ engine i kinda new to the car scene too ( and ah drivin a honda.... doh beat meh!) but as a car guy i'm interested in how plausable this thing is..
In my uneducated position it soundin real dread.. but what's the general consensus. :)

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Postby Rainman » June 1st, 2008, 1:46 pm

if your friend wanted fast car that's exactly what he should have bought! not to mention that one engine is for a rwd application (rx7) and the other is fwd(M3), and finding a used rotary engine that will not need rebuilding is not unheard of but is pretty damn hard to find wankels are also very high maintenance. your friend should consider a turbo install on the 3 there are a few turbo kits availble from ADM online for the 1.6, only issue may be his transmission type (manual vs. automatic) as automatic trannys are very susceptible to heat.

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Postby GANESH » June 1st, 2008, 9:34 pm

thanks for the info i'll let him know.He's just bouncing ideas till he gets some money :lol:

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Postby acesinghit » June 3rd, 2008, 8:45 am

rainman got the point sent home i hope.......why doesn't he simply import the Mazda Atenza MPS aka MazdaSpeed 3? Its a 2.3 turbo for crying out loud and it'll smoke a stock RX-8 and run with the EVO9 and certainly neck on neck (depending on driver) a WRX STi? With a ton load of mods available for that car it should be a breeze to increase performance and hit 3rd gen RX-7 territory.

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Postby Rainman » June 5th, 2008, 9:46 am

hey guys, at the top of my tranny's dipstick it says "ATF MV" does this mean that i can use only mercon v fluid in the transmission? does anyone else have this on top of their dipstick?

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Postby FullStop » June 7th, 2008, 3:38 pm

rain man, i pretty sure i not allowed to do this, so i hoping the mods dont hit meh a digital kick in meh arse, u know d drill, replace the xx wit a tt anu orne like boil corn, an u need hjsplit to rejoin the two pieces, good luck

Code: Select all

m3 manual, i lookin to set up sum more, but ah fraid i get kick dong, i figure i go juss open a new site for dat...for verification, only rainman is allowed the download of this file, as its contents are considered private and confidential, anyone else deciding to view the files are doing so against the owners rules etc...
Last edited by FullStop on June 10th, 2008, 3:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby Rainman » June 9th, 2008, 11:13 am

does anyone have the part numbers for the front and rear brake pads on the mazda 3?

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Postby Computerman » June 9th, 2008, 2:19 pm

ghostbusters, you shoulda just PM de man da link!

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Postby FullStop » June 10th, 2008, 3:11 pm

sorry day, i goin an try an move it... it gone, anybody want it well, ...whatever

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