trinituner.com

Posted: **July 29th, 2012, 1:15 pm**

Saleswoman*

Posted: **July 29th, 2012, 9:34 pm**

marlon333 wrote:I need to get Redline D4 ATF, where do you guys get them. I heard people say that they change their power steering fluid regularly. The manual says just to inspect the level. Should I change it? My M3 is doing about 29K.

U don't need to do it at 29k, if you want to however I did a walkthrough a couple pages back.

Posted: **August 2nd, 2012, 8:37 pm**

how much quarts of oil does it take to do a complete transmission oil drain and replace?and can anyone direct me to a place in south that does it? thanks!

Posted: **August 2nd, 2012, 8:52 pm**

ok...having a slight problem on my m3, well not sure its a problem..anyways...on flat surface, when i put my car in reverse and start to reverse, i feel a slight "buck" almost like a stutter, but very slight...then it goes away anyone getting this? or knws what is the cause?

Posted: **August 2nd, 2012, 10:19 pm**

konartis wrote:how much quarts of oil does it take to do a complete transmission oil drain and replace?and can anyone direct me to a place in south that does it? thanks!

Read page 32 bro.

You need to get the oil change done, then see if these problems persist.

Posted: **August 3rd, 2012, 5:16 am**

Anyone ever purchase a O2 sensor (upstream) from SS and what was the price? Very hard to get them on the phone.

Posted: **August 3rd, 2012, 9:25 am**

SS dont ever answer the phone. Na, never purchased one, I recommend going on NTK's website and finding the matching part number for your application and see if you can find it at check's on cipero street in sando, would save you couple hundred bucks.

Posted: **August 3rd, 2012, 11:51 am**

Mazda 3 headlights pair - 1500
Taillights Pair - 1500
Grill - 300
Combo Price - 3000.00

Or Trade for Samsung Galaxy s 2 or Iphone 4
PM or call to Negotiate.......must sell this week (3448813)

Posted: **August 3rd, 2012, 12:51 pm**

ghostbusters wrote:SS dont ever answer the phone. Na, never purchased one, I recommend going on NTK's website and finding the matching part number for your application and see if you can find it at check's on cipero street in sando, would save you couple hundred bucks.

That was a big help. Found the NTK part online for $133US. After I got the part#, I was able to find the OEM sensor, $300US. Might just order the OE.

Since it costs $300US (about $2000TT), I wonder how much SS have it for :shock:

Posted: **August 3rd, 2012, 4:51 pm**

Hey guys i don't know if anyone can help me with this but my Mazda 3 2004 RORO has an engine check light on which says replace the o2 sensor on bank one. I did replace the sensor but the check light is still on i heard someone say that you have to replace the two O2 sensors for the check light to come off the pre and post of the catalytic converter.

I am thinking about replacing them both but i don't want to purchase the parts from SS cause their prices are ridiculous. I saw the parts on an online Mazda store at a really good price, however the sensors come in standards : California and Federal can anyone tell me what standard sensor a RORO Mazda 3 would use is it a California or a Federal.

Also does anyone know where i can get these sensors in Trinidad at a really good price or does anyone have any to sell. Please let me know

Posted: **August 3rd, 2012, 6:30 pm**

Rainman wrote:
dredman1 wrote:
Rainman wrote:My rear o2 sensor went out I. September last. I bought the part and fixed it myself.
Did you get a CEL coming up because of this? P0420 or something like that?

How much was the sensor at SSSL?

Got the cel,used the scan tool, used a multimeter to confirm if it was the sensor....turns out that the heater circuit was shot. car was driving perfectly normal to be honest but I hate seeing warning lights. Sensor is 1390 at southern sales.

1) disconnect sensor harness from the back of the ecu in the engine bay.
2) unbolt metal cable holder (about half way on the cable length) 10mm spanner
3) use a 22 open end spanner to unbolt sensor....be veryyyy careful not to force it. Basically you don't want to break off the sensor in the bung.
4) repeat steps in reverse to install. I used a bit of loctite anti seize on it.
5) reset ecu (clear codes)

Make sure the car is cooled down before attempting. I rushed it and and got a nasty burn on my forearm.

@rainman I have a cel on which tells me problem with o2 sensor on bank 1. I did change the sensor but the light is still on with the same error. Someone told me i need to change both the front and rear sensor for the light to come off. You said u used a multimeter to test the sensor can you tell me about that how you did it and how the test was done or where i can get it done.

Posted: **August 3rd, 2012, 7:17 pm**

tech_darin wrote:I saw the parts on an online Mazda store at a really good price, however the sensors come in standards : California and Federal can anyone tell me what standard sensor a RORO Mazda 3 would use is it a California or a Federal.

MZ3 vehicles that have to comply with California emission law will have 3 oxygen sensors (front, center, rear). Since yours has 2, they will be Federal. That's the easiest way to tell.

I think the front sensor part # is LFL7-18-8G1C

Posted: **August 3rd, 2012, 7:38 pm**

xNeXuSx wrote:I think the front sensor part # is LFL7-18-8G1C

@xNeXuSx Thanks man

Posted: **August 3rd, 2012, 11:28 pm**

tech_darin wrote:
Rainman wrote:
dredman1 wrote:
Rainman wrote:My rear o2 sensor went out I. September last. I bought the part and fixed it myself.
Did you get a CEL coming up because of this? P0420 or something like that?

How much was the sensor at SSSL?

Got the cel,used the scan tool, used a multimeter to confirm if it was the sensor....turns out that the heater circuit was shot. car was driving perfectly normal to be honest but I hate seeing warning lights. Sensor is 1390 at southern sales.

1) disconnect sensor harness from the back of the ecu in the engine bay.
2) unbolt metal cable holder (about half way on the cable length) 10mm spanner
3) use a 22 open end spanner to unbolt sensor....be veryyyy careful not to force it. Basically you don't want to break off the sensor in the bung.
4) repeat steps in reverse to install. I used a bit of loctite anti seize on it.
5) reset ecu (clear codes)

Make sure the car is cooled down before attempting. I rushed it and and got a nasty burn on my forearm.

@rainman I have a cel on which tells me problem with o2 sensor on bank 1. I did change the sensor but the light is still on with the same error. Someone told me i need to change both the front and rear sensor for the light to come off. You said u used a multimeter to test the sensor can you tell me about that how you did it and how the test was done or where i can get it done.

There are 2 sensors on bank 1, precat and postcat. A proper scan tool should tell you which one failed. No you do not have to change both for the light to come off. Think about it; why would you change a perfectly good sensor? Chances are that you changed the wrong sensor.

Our cars carry 4-wire heated oxy sensors, 2 wires control a heating element -ve and +ve) which brings the sensor up to temperature when the car is cold. The other 2 are ground and ecu signal. The fault with my sensor was the heater circuit because when I measured the resistance across the working sensor, continuity was there. However on the secondary sensor there was no continuity across the heater circuit.

Posted: **August 3rd, 2012, 11:58 pm**

@rainman I did replace the O2 sensor on bank 1 as the cel threw. I got an DENSO o2 sensor but not from SS. Would i need to probably inspect the heat sensor since i did this replacement and it didn't work? I am getting a ODB11 scan tool soon so i would run some test on the o2 sensors to see what happens from there. Any suggestions on this ? Can you tell me whats the best way to inspect these sensors either using the multimeter or the scan tool or do you know of anywhere that does the inspection for you cause i know these sensors will carry certain readings and for a person who doesn't know anything about sensors it can be tough for me to trust my opinion

Posted: **August 4th, 2012, 9:55 am**

@rainman would also like to know if i have to test the sensor harness what would i need to test that and what would i be looking for, would i just need to check if there is electricity in it or will i need to check for voltages on the pins?

Posted: **August 4th, 2012, 10:17 am**

xNeXuSx wrote:
konartis wrote:how much quarts of oil does it take to do a complete transmission oil drain and replace?and can anyone direct me to a place in south that does it? thanks!

Read page 32 bro.

You need to get the oil change done, then see if these problems persist.

thanks i was looking tru for it, cause i knw someone had done it..thanks...

Posted: **August 4th, 2012, 11:41 am**

tech_darin wrote:@rainman would also like to know if i have to test the sensor harness what would i need to test that and what would i be looking for, would i just need to check if there is electricity in it or will i need to check for voltages on the pins?

if you installed an OE replacement O2 sensor you have to make sure that when you're doing the splice that you match the wires correctly. Most times the two matching colors would be for the heater circuit and the other two would be ground and ECU signal. I always suggest going for the original mazda sensor cause it takes the guesswork out of the repair.

Mazda part numbers are as follows:
Sensor 1 Bank 1: Z601-18-861A

Sensor 2 Bank 2: Z602-18-861A

Troubleshooting using the meter is only useful if the sensor is up to temperature, you wont get a mV output signal from the sensor if the car is cold and the heater is blown, this means running the car with the sensor in-bung while testing. You also have to test for continuity between the sensor harness and ecu, then continuity between the heater wires.

Posted: **August 4th, 2012, 3:29 pm**

So, serviced the better half Mazda3 today. Oil/Filter, Transmission fluid change, front left bearing, torque entire suspension and found a loose shock mount bolt in the same front left.

Car running like almost new now, just wind noise in the cabin with windows up as opposed to the loud tire humming sound (bearing) we had to shout over, transmission shifting smoothly where as before it almost seemed delayed and harsh. Overall handling feels tighter as well.

Up next, I want to tackle the headlights. They have the usual weathered haze appearing at the top.

Recommendations on kits and locations of same?

Posted: **August 4th, 2012, 4:55 pm**

i need someone in sanfernando who i get get a trans oil flush and replace

Posted: **August 4th, 2012, 11:33 pm**

noshownogo wrote:So, serviced the better half Mazda3 today. Oil/Filter, Transmission fluid change, front left bearing, torque entire suspension and found a loose shock mount bolt in the same front left.

Car running like almost new now, just wind noise in the cabin with windows up as opposed to the loud tire humming sound (bearing) we had to shout over, transmission shifting smoothly where as before it almost seemed delayed and harsh. Overall handling feels tighter as well.

Up next, I want to tackle the headlights. They have the usual weathered haze appearing at the top.

Recommendations on kits and locations of same?

You have a cordless drill? If you do the 3M headlight restoration kit is the best bang for the buck, but remember the headlight will get cloudy again if you dont seal it. Use any protective wax that you have lying around.

Posted: **August 5th, 2012, 11:23 am**

Rainman wrote:
tech_darin wrote:@rainman would also like to know if i have to test the sensor harness what would i need to test that and what would i be looking for, would i just need to check if there is electricity in it or will i need to check for voltages on the pins?

if you installed an OE replacement O2 sensor you have to make sure that when you're doing the splice that you match the wires correctly. Most times the two matching colors would be for the heater circuit and the other two would be ground and ECU signal. I always suggest going for the original mazda sensor cause it takes the guesswork out of the repair.

Mazda part numbers are as follows:
Sensor 1 Bank 1: Z601-18-861A

Sensor 2 Bank 2: Z602-18-861A

Troubleshooting using the meter is only useful if the sensor is up to temperature, you wont get a mV output signal from the sensor if the car is cold and the heater is blown, this means running the car with the sensor in-bung while testing. You also have to test for continuity between the sensor harness and ecu, then continuity between the heater wires.

Thanks a million i appreciate your help a lot, will try get the OEM sensor and thanks for the pt numbers

Posted: **August 5th, 2012, 2:28 pm**

Rainman wrote:You have a cordless drill? If you do the 3M headlight restoration kit is the best bang for the buck, but remember the headlight will get cloudy again if you dont seal it. Use any protective wax that you have lying around.

You know where I can get that 3M kit?

Posted: **August 5th, 2012, 9:50 pm**

noshownogo wrote:
Rainman wrote:You have a cordless drill? If you do the 3M headlight restoration kit is the best bang for the buck, but remember the headlight will get cloudy again if you dont seal it. Use any protective wax that you have lying around.

You know where I can get that 3M kit?

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=426579&hilit=3m+headlight#p6053827

Posted: **August 5th, 2012, 10:29 pm**

konartis wrote:ok...having a slight problem on my m3, well not sure its a problem..anyways...on flat surface, when i put my car in reverse and start to reverse, i feel a slight "buck" almost like a stutter, but very slight...then it goes away anyone getting this? or knws what is the cause?

U should check your engine/tranny mounts while changing the tranny oil.

Posted: **August 5th, 2012, 10:40 pm**

Groovemaster wrote:
konartis wrote:ok...having a slight problem on my m3, well not sure its a problem..anyways...on flat surface, when i put my car in reverse and start to reverse, i feel a slight "buck" almost like a stutter, but very slight...then it goes away anyone getting this? or knws what is the cause?

U should check your engine/tranny mounts while changing the tranny oil.

noticing a slight vibration when on idle also, but very slight...

Posted: **August 6th, 2012, 8:37 am**

check your engine mounts or have them checked.

Posted: **August 6th, 2012, 8:00 pm**

anyone here have the DVD player for mzd 3? was looking at it online, looks good...
http://tinyurl.com/c3b3h3w

Posted: **August 6th, 2012, 10:07 pm**

saw sum guys in the US with them, looks pretty nice.

Posted: **August 7th, 2012, 2:51 pm**

been checking these out as well... I like how this keeps the original look of the dash. There is also:

http://www.eonon.com/Car-GPS/Specific-C ... D5102.html

Seems as though they run on Window CE OS. some people say the interface isnt all that. There is a lot of reviews online especially of the Eonon unit. I am not sure how the output of these would be compared to say a Pioneer double din unit.

Also with regards to the GPS map, the local updated map is designed for Garmin units. If anyone knows how to get the garmin map to work with these units it would be great or an alternative updated trini map.

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