trinituner.com

so....
wifey start back using the swift and she tell me everytime she leave home the handbrake light duz come on, after a few mins of driving, for about 4 seconds. very randomly

all the time in between i use the car i never saw this problem!

is there something i should be worried about??.....

i know my brake pads will be due for changing soon as i was told @ LSM at my last service that the pads will have to be changed at my upcoming service.

please shed some light!

Due to your pads getting low, your brake fluid level will also drop hence the light coming on sometimes.

I saw it on move off, hard cornering and hard braking.

Basically the fluid moves in the reservoir below the fluid sensor causing the light.

Don't top up the fluid, when new pads a put it they will sort it out.

i suspected this as the fluid level was a lil above the low mark...

i also know the pads will be due for change by next month (its on the agenda)

question tho: how come the light only comes on when she is driving??

*KRONIK* wrote:i suspected this as the fluid level was a lil above the low mark...

i also know the pads will be due for change by next month (its on the agenda)

question tho: how come the light only comes on when she is driving??

Tires first,second, third lol

lol

auto bro....
but i am beginning to believe that old age is getting to me...
losing my ability to accelerate and brake aggressively

oh well ....
i'll update when i change the pads, sometime in the next 2 weeks....

i had this same problem with flickering of the hand brake light due to the pads needing to change.she possibly has a more aggressive driving style because especially on hard cornering the light would come on in my sx4.definitely dont top up the brake fluid but verify that it is borderline low.once the pads are changed all should be well.the light would come on so momentarily it might be that your wife is much more observant than you

Kenjo wrote:once the pads are changed all should be well.

BLUE_CP9A wrote:Don't top up the fluid, when new pads a put it they will sort it out.

If you have a mechanic who pushes the brake fluid from the caliper piston back into the brake lines, ABS pump and master cylinder reservoir, get a new mechanic.

The proper procedure for pad replacement is to open the bleed valve, remove the pad and use a spread tool to push the piston in. All the fluid displaced will new be lost via the bleed valve. Replace the brake pads, top up the brake fluid with fresh fluid from a sealed container, pump up the brakes and then bleed the system.

well my problem was corrected but i dont know what procedure lifestyle motors used.but the general consensus is that the OP should not top up the brake fluid but verify according to your advice how will the mechanic change the pads and replace/push back up the fluid .

guys i have a question......kinda off topic but....

when changing disc pads....would the brake line need bleeding?...Its is a must to bleed the line when changing disc pads....?

what about brake shoes....?

Brakes should be bled after a brake pad/shoe change to ensure that there is no air in the brake fluid system.

A complete brake fluid flush should be done annually, where every drop of old fluid is removed from the system.

Kenjo wrote:i had this same problem with flickering of the hand brake light due to the pads needing to change.she possibly has a more aggressive driving style because especially on hard cornering the light would come on in my sx4.definitely dont top up the brake fluid but verify that it is borderline low.once the pads are changed all should be well.the light would come on so momentarily it might be that your wife is much more observant than you

yes she does drive a more aggressive than me...(so ppl duz tell me)

Big Z wrote:

Kenjo wrote:once the pads are changed all should be well.

BLUE_CP9A wrote:Don't top up the fluid, when new pads a put it they will sort it out.

If you have a mechanic who pushes the brake fluid from the caliper piston back into the brake lines, ABS pump and master cylinder reservoir, get a new mechanic.

The proper procedure for pad replacement is to open the bleed valve, remove the pad and use a spread tool to push the piston in. All the fluid displaced will new be lost via the bleed valve. Replace the brake pads, top up the brake fluid with fresh fluid from a sealed container, pump up the brakes and then bleed the system.

i know not to top up the fluid...... replacing the pads will bring the level back up....

what wrong with pushing the piston back into the caliper?
my mech uses a special tool which screws in the caliper so as not to damage the rotor...

if a braking system is a closed/sealed hydraulic system (fluid is not used but displaced)
how is pushing the fluid back a bad thing??

i asking cuz i really dont know eh....not being sarcastic....

Kenjo wrote:well my problem was corrected but i dont know what procedure lifestyle motors used.but the general consensus is that the OP should not top up the brake fluid but verify according to your advice how will the mechanic change the pads and replace/push back up the fluid .

i not sure what they do @ LSM either.....

Big Z wrote:Brakes should be bled after a brake pad/shoe change to ensure that there is no air in the brake fluid system.

A complete brake fluid flush should be done annually, where every drop of old fluid is removed from the system.

how will the air get in if all the seals are good??

u duz do brake fluid flush @ ur biz??

Nothing is wrong with pushing the piston back. This must be done to insert the new pads.
What is very wrong, as I clearly indicated in my first post above, is the practice of pushing the caliper piston fluid back into the master cylinder. (In poorly maintained vehicles, you may actually see solids in the caliper piston. Don't think you want those remaining in your brake system.)
When pushing back the piston, ensure that the bleed valve is open. That's all.
This is where air can be introduced to the brake system.

A flush is the same as a bleed, just that you are replacing all the brake fluid.
At the end of the flush, there will be no old brake fluid in the system.

^^^
This is my first brake pad and shoe change,
Shouldnt the fluid be free of debris?

Only in a perfect world....

Like all other fluids in your car, brake fluid is subject to high heat and subsequent breakdown, resulting in lots of stuff, including solids. This breakdown is concentrated in the... you guessed it... the brake caliper.

i am beginning to understand!

*grasshopper exits*

so update:
i went to speed balance my wheels and rotate them....
had a look at the caliper... there is about 1/3 life left in the brake pads (both sides, with very even wear!)....
is it normal to change them out with so much pad left??
of did the ppl @ LSM did not put enough brake fluid in the reservoir??

advice??

....KRONKI.....whats the diff between brake pads and shoes.......? why do u need to change both?

^^^

CAILIPER/ ROTOR/ PADS




DRUM/SHOES

LSM will want to change it, as they rather not pay for new brake discs when you exceed the friction material

Makes sense!
Ill monitor it and update accorcingly

Who selling brakes for the swift (2010 models) other than LSM . Do you guys have a part number and a good brand, need to change my wifes brakes and LSM calling $900 for the brakes alone....

i paid almost 800 for mine..... ($78X.00)

them on a rell "dig out eye" scene inside dey.....

I can assure you that the difference in quality between the OEM pads & the cereal box-grade material pads that you can pick up at your friendly neighbourhood car parts parlour is quite substantial ...think of how dumb you will feel after you have deposited your lovely Suzuki squarely into the back of a garbage truck when you realize that cereal box material brake pads don't stop as well as the OEM material ...which will make the difference in cost of the 2 brake pads minuscule in comparison to what you now have to pay to straighten back the front of your car.

^^^
trust me, i know this.....

dats why I will always make the sacrifice to buy OEM parts....