HELLPP PROBLEM WITH CLUTCH!!!

[§ephiroth]

Oh btw it wasn't burnouts i did..............it was launches

[§ephiroth]

Also Moderators you can feel free to move this thread to tech stuff etc etc. Thank you for allowing me to have this post in the ole talk forum

[wagonrunner]

Oh btw it wasn't burnouts i did..............it was launches

difference?

[§ephiroth]

Burnout

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pp6HU1E81JI



Launch


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SxuYCXgr ... 1&index=60

[wagonrunner]

Burnout
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pp6HU1E81JI

Launch
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SxuYCXgr ... 1&index=60

great............i probably phrased the question badly.

what's the difference to the clutch?

[saltydog]

clutch lining fubar. remove the box and start there.

[§ephiroth]

what's the difference to the clutch?

well i could be wrong but i assume that after launching and running out the gears and then changing quickly...would have more wear on the clutch as opposed to a burnout where the gear is already engaged and it stays in one gear

Correct me if i am wrong

[Polydor]

well I too suffered this problem with the SR20 gearbox I had in my car years ago.

1. Check to see if any fluid is being lost.....I changed seals over and over in the master cylinder and it always got black, I eventually changed the entire piston with new seals bought it be roach...sikkens entire assembly and well it worked up to this day....it's the same as the owner now has the car told me it's just the pressure plate he changed as he could dot drive it with an extreme pp as a daily driver.

2. I additionally had an issue with not enough movement on the slave cylinder to the fork, solved this by removing the aluminum spacer that's on the gearbox by the slave cylinder itself.

Hope all goes well as I do know what it's like.

[§ephiroth]

Problem solved guys. The Clutch system was not building enough pressure. Due to the fork in the wrong position. Now when putting back the bolt i pressed the pedal to meet the fork which was why the gear was engaged so much. The reason why i was thinking the fork was set to max was while adjusting it under the steering wheel the fork started to get hard to turn.........My assumption was it had reach the nut which was on the last few threads......After takin back out everything I realized i had a alot of threading to bring the fork down still. Problem is to make it efficiently reach the clutch pedal i had to remove the nut so now there is not "safety nut".



New problem the entire stem(Or rod that the fork is attached to) can turn therefore it may be possible for it to loosen itself when pressing the pedal(this is just what we think have not tested yet) But either way we are going to take back out the entire thing and do some adjustments. There are many simple options in solving the problem So it is just to choose one.

Notes on experience: Apparently from day one, the clutch pedal was set up to just "Work alright" it wasn't set up like how it is now and all the things we are goin to do to make sure that it is done correctly(Like get bigger fork or bigger stem etc etc) . The previous owner said when he fixed the problem when he had it with the bolt an nut set up it was a fix....at the time and worked great.

Mind you the first set up before bolt and nut(The one with the pin) lasted a year, The second one prolly 8 months. Thing i realised is that it was gradual wear and tear with the play in the pedal and threadin eating away at material on fork and pedal that caused this......ALSO the entire master and slave cylinders needed new parts inside rubbers piston etc etc.(One of the few things never changed on the car in the 2 years the engine is inside).

[§ephiroth]

I would like to thank everyone for their advice and the mods for allowing me to have this thread here. All help and advice was greatly appreciated


Oh Also a mechanic was charging me $150.00 to check the entire set up that is without parts if any needed changing


Total cost of everything doin it ourself a little over $110.00(That is; Master and Slave Cylinder new parts, piston spring rubbers etc etc. One tin of Prestone Brake parts Cleaner. One bottle of wagner dot 3 brake fluid. 3 Bolts and nuts.)

So it might have cost close to $500.00 if i had gone by a mech between labour and parts. Oh missing figures are dependent on which option i go in relation to securing the fork. And Phone card