What oil u using in ur diesel van?

[bleedingfreak]

yep yep.
Synthetic oils like Amsoil and Mobil 1 are designed to give you longer change intervals, between 10,000 - 20,000.

I wouldn't push it all the way to 20,000km though, esp. if you drive hard or spend a lot of time in traffic.

The only thing that would limit you in this case would be the change-interval on your oil filter.

Lots of people do not factor in traffic and the effects that traffic has on an engine... I do a mix of heavy traffic, and long runs, also factor in our extreme heat...

I doh play dat anymore...

[bleedingfreak]

Gentlemen we now have two other factors to add into the mix.

1. Air filter : OEM vs K&N. Dirt particles is one consideration in the breakdown of oils. More air = more dust particles.
2. Fuel : We've all agreed that we get 'piss' quality diesel.

It doesn't make sense using high quality synthetic oil with giving thought to the two factors above.

Epic words from the CEO there!

[bleedingfreak]

Using synthetic oils, your service intervals should be as follows:
Common rail 10 000 - 12 000km
Non common rail 7 500 - 10 000km

Might take the chance and run it to the 7.5 k mark.

it is the nature of oil in diesel vehicles to get black. the oil is designed to absorb the soot caused by the diesel combustion process. it is not a sign that the oil has broken down.

Actually the sign of a good oil is that is turns black a short while after changing... Also if it smells sooty and ashy and sulfury, your on the money...

[venum]

Fellas who using oil filters to extended intervals - like beyond 10,000km

one point to note is that you CANNOT tell teh condition of the filter from visual inspection
so how do you know that it is still good - you cannot

diesel oil is black as biggy said, but does not mean that it is worn and expended its service life

when you remove the filter eveything inside it looks black

the only way to know if the filter is still good is to pull a sample of the oil returning FROM the filter and analyse it for particulate matter

we do this on the plant with our big engines, Caterpillar and Solar etc, because it is not cheap to change oil and filters unnecessarily (thousands of US$)

when you all figure out how to do this on you automotive engine, please let me know

until then I advise that since you cannot determine if teh filter is still useable, change it every oil change

makes no sense to be spending ~TT600.00 on new oil to use a dirty filter

another crude way of inspecting the filter, is to cut open a used one to determine how dirty it gets on a usual basis. it won't be reuseable after, but you may get an idea of what to expect with future filters taht have served teh same time

on teh topic of diesel fuel filter, I would chnage this every oil change

on my previous model L200 (K74T direct injection) i used sakura oil filter and mineral oil which changed every 5000km give or take 500-600 km

i used to change the fuel filter every oil change as well

my reasoning - the diesel fuel filter is MORE important than the OIL filter and it has the potential to cause a lot of expensive damage. at $45.00 per fuel filter, it was TOO cheap NOT to change

I used to run my tank all the way down till teh needle was below E and never had a problem with the injection pump (but that takes some balls to do and a lot of confidence in your maintenance technique and schedule, which I do not recommend to anyone, since it is commonly advised not to let your fuel level drop below 1/4 tank). I put a disclaimer on this.

Now with a common rail injection engine that is soooo much more sensitive to bad diesel and water and a filter that cost upwards TT$600.00 I would still change the fuel filter every oil change, but i operating on a 10,000km change interval with Amsoil synth)

reason - while you can still very easily and relatively inexpensively service a direct injection pump, a common rail injection pump is an entirely different service case. they are not easily or readily serviced and the cost WILL NOT be cheap.

I am not throwing a spoke in anyone's wheel or bashing anyone's maintenance techniques, just giving my TT$0.02

[bleedingfreak]

Fellas who using oil filters to extended intervals - like beyond 10,000km

one point to note is that you CANNOT tell teh condition of the filter from visual inspection
so how do you know that it is still good - you cannot

diesel oil is black as biggy said, but does not mean that it is worn and expended its service life

when you remove the filter eveything inside it looks black

the only way to know if the filter is still good is to pull a sample of the oil returning FROM the filter and analyse it for particulate matter

we do this on the plant with our big engines, Caterpillar and Solar etc, because it is not cheap to change oil and filters unnecessarily (thousands of US$)

when you all figure out how to do this on you automotive engine, please let me know

until then I advise that since you cannot determine if teh filter is still useable, change it every oil change

makes no sense to be spending ~TT600.00 on new oil to use a dirty filter

another crude way of inspecting the filter, is to cut open a used one to determine how dirty it gets on a usual basis. it won't be reuseable after, but you may get an idea of what to expect with future filters taht have served teh same time

on teh topic of diesel fuel filter, I would chnage this every oil change

on my previous model L200 (K74T direct injection) i used sakura oil filter and mineral oil which changed every 5000km give or take 500-600 km

i used to change the fuel filter every oil change as well

my reasoning - the diesel fuel filter is MORE important than the OIL filter and it has the potential to cause a lot of expensive damage. at $45.00 per fuel filter, it was TOO cheap NOT to change

I used to run my tank all the way down till teh needle was below E and never had a problem with the injection pump (but that takes some balls to do and a lot of confidence in your maintenance technique and schedule, which I do not recommend to anyone, since it is commonly advised not to let your fuel level drop below 1/4 tank). I put a disclaimer on this.

Now with a common rail injection engine that is soooo much more sensitive to bad diesel and water and a filter that cost upwards TT$600.00 I would still change the fuel filter every oil change, but i operating on a 10,000km change interval with Amsoil synth)

reason - while you can still very easily and relatively inexpensively service a direct injection pump, a common rail injection pump is an entirely different service case. they are not easily or readily serviced and the cost WILL NOT be cheap.

I am not throwing a spoke in anyone's wheel or bashing anyone's maintenance techniques, just giving my TT$0.02

Well said uncle!!!

[Dj_Bee]

my reasoning - the diesel fuel filter is MORE important than the OIL filter and it has the potential to cause a lot of expensive damage. at $45.00 per fuel filter, it was TOO cheap NOT to change

This, i don't believe...
I change my fuel filter every 2 oil changes, and bleed the water trap every now and then.

I believe that the Oil filter is the most important filter, thats why i always use originals.
Imagine if an oil filter colapsed, and the engine starves for oil...what would be the outcome?

And if a fuel filter colapses? most should happen is that the vehicle would cut off.

Correct me if im wrong eh fellas,.

[venum]

DJ_Bee

a bad fuel filter can severly mess up your injection system which is sooo much more expensive than an engine that starved for oil

oil starvation can result in overheating engines, piston and cylinder wear, seized engine

failed fuel filter from collapse would cause particulate matter and water to get into your pump and cylinders

with a common rail injection pump and the incrediblly narrow clearance and tolerance= nothing working

damange from oil starvation is expensive, but IMHO easier to repair than a faulty injection pump as any good mechanic can overhaul your engine, machine back some pf teh components and change some components

but when your common rail injection pump fails - who repairing that

to be fair saying taht the diesel filter is more important is an exaggeration on my part, they each have their roles and should be changed on a maintenance plan

diesel fuel filter would get dirty depending on the quality of the diesel that you buy (dependant on service station) and the condition of your own fuel system

my maintenance technique is to change the fuel filter every oil change as I have always done

every other oil change is not bad either

but is a personal preference\maintenance style

[Jeremy Mohd]

Agreed,

With the common rail, I am not willing to chance NOT changing the fuel filter.
It's changing with every oil change, along with the diesel filter.
Which right now, using the Amsoil, is 10K.

The pressure of the diesel in the 'rail' is literally in the thousands of PSI.. you dont want to take the chance of anything foreign making it this far, and then through your injectors with that force.

[biggy82]

you do not want to screw with your high pressure CR injection system. water in the diesel alone cost me $2500 in removal / cleaning of the CR. the FPS is another $3000 and lets not talk about the pump

both filters are equally important. OEM ftmfw

[lighthammer]

Agreed,

With the common rail, I am not willing to chance NOT changing the fuel filter.
It's changing with every oil change, along with the diesel filter.
Which right now, using the Amsoil, is 10K.

The pressure of the diesel in the 'rail' is literally in the thousands of PSI.. you dont want to take the chance of anything foreign making it this far, and then through your injectors with that force.

This makes the most sense.
I'll be changing the fuel filters along with the oil filters every 10,000km.
With the sheit diesel we have in trinidad - it just makes better sense.

The pressure in the fuel rail can range from 1800PSI (that's the pressure of the 2.5WLC TDCi in the Ranger) all the way up to 2800PSI (in the new 2011 Navara 3.0 V6 in the UK/Austr.


As an example of how sensitive the common rail diesel engine is to bad fuel, the Navara has 2, not one, but 2 fuel filters in the engine bay plus the one in the fuel tank. My sales rep in N&M pointed them out when I was first looking at the Navara.


Hence the importance of changing your filters regularly (the Nav's manual says to do it every 20K km, but I'll do it sooner) plus using additives like the Amsoil Diesel Concentrate. Other filtration systems like Algae X - which Biggy has in his Navara, are helpful too.

So, because of where we live and the supplies we get, one should do two things:
1. regular oil changes + oil filter changes
2. regular fuel filter changes

All this, leads to a happy common rail diesel engine.


On another note, check out the cool stickers that I got

[lighthammer]

On another note - spoke with the Amsoil sales rep yesterday, who confirmed that the change interval for the Amsoil 15w40 synthetic diesel oil is 10,000 KM. In fact, he said that you CAN go up to 20,000 KM, that's what the Amsoil is rated for esp. for big-rigs like in the US who do long cross-country hauls.

However, I still think this would be limited by your oil-filter - what's the good of having a long-distance oil if your oil filter is only rated between 5000 - 10,000 km?

So 10,000 km it shall be.


I was at N&M yesterday getting the 5,000 km servicing done on the Navara. Spoke with the service manager there about using the Amsoil and doing change intervals at 10,000km instead of 5,000km.

She said it's perfectly fine, it doesn't affect the warranty. The only loss would be the free-labour that comes with every minor servicing between the major ones (5,000km, 15,000km, 25,000 km... etc).

[bleedingfreak]

my reasoning - the diesel fuel filter is MORE important than the OIL filter and it has the potential to cause a lot of expensive damage. at $45.00 per fuel filter, it was TOO cheap NOT to change

This, i don't believe...
I change my fuel filter every 2 oil changes, and bleed the water trap every now and then.

I believe that the Oil filter is the most important filter, thats why i always use originals.
Imagine if an oil filter colapsed, and the engine starves for oil...what would be the outcome?

And if a fuel filter colapses? most should happen is that the vehicle would cut off.

Correct me if im wrong eh fellas,.

Boss, just use original filters for both nah... If you get a GOOD filter, fuel or oil, they are made to higher specifications than the over the counter variety. The only OEM replacements you should consider are brands like Denso, which are OEM for alot of the manufacturers.

Your point also lacks some merit: The diesel oil and oil filter work in tandem to collect and remove pollutants and foreign matter from your diesel engine. Whereas only the fuel filter is working to remove particles, water, impurities, etc.

The Professor has done some experimentation wrt the condition of our diesel by placing a clear plastic (gasoline) pre-filter before his fuel filter. Results showed that the clear fuel filter was filled with gunk and impurities alot faster than was anticipated! (look for the thread if you dont believe me). Team Loco had also done some investigation as to the qualtiy of the diesel coming from his bond.

This is not heresy and ole talk pardna... This is experience talking.

Ok I done now...

[venum]

the service manual for the L200 Sportero identifies for the 3.2L non-common rail engine oil & filter should be changed every 15,000km using original filters with an API rated "CD and higher" for normal usage and 7,500 km for severe usage

for the all common rail (3.2L &2.5L) engine oil & filter should be changed every 10,000km using original filters with an API rated "CD and higher" for normal usage and 5,000 km for severe usage

This is the OEM filter for teh 3.2L



Fuel filter every 20,000km for either engine model

EGR - inspection every 20,000km

Fear not my diamond brothers, I will post these schedules (and more) in the L200 Tech thread

With the added contaminants in our diesel, I will stick to my technique - every oil change - 10,000km

[MrCuddles]

instead of hvin to change ur oil jus because ur filter cant exceed 10,000km is a waste dont u tink??

not sure hw allyuh trucks made up but i change my filter alone every 4,000km......but daz jus caus i use da crappy Sakura filters wit RP oil (which is changed every 12,000km)

[CD4Accord]

That brings up a point.. How good or bad are the Sakura filters? I know that AM Marketing just blitzed the entire parts market with them, just as they did with nexen/roadstone so the fact that everyone stocks it is not really supporting evidence..

Anyway, having trouble finding other branded filters for the 4D54T in the pajero so I always end up getting stuck with the Sakura.. I have no intention of stretching OCI, I normally do it around 6000km using Castrol Hypuron 15w-40 Semi-Syn

[Dj_Bee]

instead of hvin to change ur oil jus because ur filter cant exceed 10,000km is a waste dont u tink??

not sure hw allyuh trucks made up but i change my filter alone every 4,000km......but daz jus caus i use da crappy Sakura filters wit RP oil (which is changed every 12,000km)

Think im gonna do this now that I've switched to amsoil, oil change every 10 000km and filters at the 5000km point.

[lighthammer]

instead of hvin to change ur oil jus because ur filter cant exceed 10,000km is a waste dont u tink??

not sure hw allyuh trucks made up but i change my filter alone every 4,000km......but daz jus caus i use da crappy Sakura filters wit RP oil (which is changed every 12,000km)

Think im gonna do this now that I've switched to amsoil, oil change every 10 000km and filters at the 5000km point.

Yeah but to change the filters, don't you have to drain the oil too?
Why not just buy the OEM filters?

We spend $200+ K on a truck yet use cheap replacements for it....
But that's just IMO anyway.

[Dj_Bee]

nope, the frontier is a top mounted filter (at least i think thats's what it's called)
It can be removed without draining the oil...you would just have to top up the oil after changing the filter.

[MrCuddles]

instead of hvin to change ur oil jus because ur filter cant exceed 10,000km is a waste dont u tink??

not sure hw allyuh trucks made up but i change my filter alone every 4,000km......but daz jus caus i use da crappy Sakura filters wit RP oil (which is changed every 12,000km)

Think im gonna do this now that I've switched to amsoil, oil change every 10 000km and filters at the 5000km point.

Yeah but to change the filters, don't you have to drain the oil too?
Why not just buy the OEM filters?

We spend $200+ K on a truck yet use cheap replacements for it....
But that's just IMO anyway.

i do agree wit u LH, to a pt.....a Sakura filter is $45, whereas an OEM filter for my truck is $150!!

last time i went to purchase a filter i asked to see both filters, an believe it or not the Sakura actually seemed sturdier an jus of a higher quality in general (evenly spaced pleats, plastic ends instead of cardboard an as the salesclerk told me, most ppl use da Sakura wit no complaints)

evn on som Aussie forums som ppl swear never to use Nissan filters, they do however use a brand called Ryco(wish dey made an oil filter for my ZD30:( )

[MrCuddles]

nope, the frontier is a top mounted filter (at least i think thats's what it's called)
It can be removed without draining the oil...you would just have to top up the oil after changing the filter.

not relly top mount, more off to da side
after jus add bout haff quart (or less) an ur good2go

[venum]

I have had nutten but good experiences with Sakura filters

I used Sakura only in my CK2 Lancer (5000km change interval), CS3 Lancer (5000km change interval), Wifey CS3 Lancer (10,000km change interval) my previous L200 (5000km change interval)

I used Sakura fuel and oil filters

Sakura is good stuff

not necessarily for racing applications where oil pressures would exceed stock conditions, but definately for normal and severe service stock applications

I highly recommend

those engines were all well maintained and performed remarkably

[MrCuddles]

I have had nutten but good experiences with Sakura filters

I used Sakura only in my CK2 Lancer (5000km change interval), CS3 Lancer (5000km change interval), Wifey CS3 Lancer (10,000km change interval) my previous L200 (5000km change interval)

I used Sakura fuel and oil filters

Sakura is good stuff

not necessarily for racing applications where oil pressures would exceed stock conditions, but definately for normal and severe service stock applications

I highly recommend

those engines were all well maintained and performed remarkably

x2
coodnt agree wit u mor

[venum]

btw CD$Accord - there are others than Sakura for your 4D56T - Purolator and BlackClubs. Boshi and Bosch even Denso

[lighthammer]

the zd30T has the oil-filter off to the left hand side of the engine, just underneath the intake feed to the turbo.

It's not a screw-on filter like in other trucks, it's a cartridge type filter that fits into the Nissan housing, which then screws into the engine port. You also need a specific wrench to remove the filter housing, can't remember the type or name.


Problem with changing the oil filter is that once you crack it open, you introduce contaminants into the engine and thus increase your wear and tear, unless you change the oil too.

[CD4Accord]

Venum, I know that other brands make the filter its just a bit hard to find it in the parts stores.. I am a loyal purolator man on all the pther cars but where would I get it for the 4D56T?

Back to oil, I'm on the end of my Castrol Hypuron stash, so depending how pricing works out, I may go back to the Shell Rimula Super , aka Rimula R4

[Dj_Bee]

the zd30T has the oil-filter off to the left hand side of the engine, just underneath the intake feed to the turbo.

It's not a screw-on filter like in other trucks, it's a cartridge type filter that fits into the Nissan housing, which then screws into the engine port. You also need a specific wrench to remove the filter housing, can't remember the type or name.


Problem with changing the oil filter is that once you crack it open, you introduce contaminants into the engine and thus increase your wear and tear, unless you change the oil too.

yep yep thats the same thing like mine, just din know how to explain it, i use a size 24 six point socket to slacken mine.

About introducing contaminants into the oil, ill have to look into that more...

[Rotated]

No more Delvac guys...Went to purchase 2 gallons today only to be told that the agent not briniging it anymore....So I went with the castrol hypuron....

[lighthammer]

Lange Trinidad was the authorized distributor for Mobil 1 Delvac.
They discontinued it, and now they bringing in Gulf Oil products.


Dunno why though.
Sorry dudes .

BTW... Amsoil is still available, as is Shell Rimula R6 , both fully synthetic.

[CD4Accord]

As a loyal user of Total Quartz in all my petrol vehicles, I waiting til they start bringing at least semi or full syn diesel oil.. I guess they afraid to over-diversify their products at the moment..

[venum]

^^^ doesn't Total ahve a diesel engine oil on the market

Diamond Motors was\is using Total oils in their service bay when the changed from Chevron