Anyone ever did or thought of using a boost controller on a diesel turbo charger? Is this recommended and safe?

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Wraithe

I have researched it and gone through all the pros and cons...

Let me tell you what i came up with on my pajero..
Stock boost is about 8 or 9 psi right... The internal wastegate releases boost at 14psi or so... I was thinking to install a high quality manual boost controller such as the model by TurboXS (about $60US)...
To go along with increased boost, you would have to increase the flow of diesel by adjusting your fuel pump... I would go extra rich then lean it out slowly until it stops smoking or runs like it did before (assuming your engine didnt smoke in the first place)..

Pros, some extra power

Cons... I currently get about 20mpg, really dont need less than that
Also, it would definitely put more stress on my 12 yr old turbo, extra oil temperature, coolant temperature etc..

Basically, I decided that it wasnt worth it... I could boost to 40psi and the pajero still going to slow so whats the point... Better and safer to leave it stock.....

That said, if you are going to raise boost make sure you buy a GOOD quality controller, you dont need a cheap one failing and you blow your head from overboosting..
Secondly, make sure all maintainance is TIP TOP condition, especially injectors and intake..

Hmmm thanks for the info

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Wraithe

i boosted my b2500...stock was around 9 lbs...now i runnin 19lbs...runnin like a bytch....no problems an i boosted it about 6 mths now

Woh, I was only thinking aobut boosting to twelve or thirteen pounds.That sounds kinda risky.

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Wraithe

Yea, personally if doing it I wouldnt go past 12 or 13....

I'm actually surprised that the b2500 let him boost to "19"... I would have expected the internal wastegate to be set MUCH lower than that..

Well he could use a controller to boost to 19 and once it reaches 19, it would open the wastegate, but still risky. Ive also heard that you should adjsut the fuel pump to deliver more gas but do not know much about that. Any Ideas?

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Wraithe

I have to admit im kinda confused bout that last post as well...

Didnt I mention the fuel pump adjustment in my original post? Just read what I said...

i have done this in my previous vehicle, mitsu l200.. you must increase the fuel flow on the pump before increasing boost.cuz air and fuel in any vehicle must be at a certain ratio to run stoich.. too much or too little fuel will mean either too rich or too lean.....even in diesel vehicles.. then i installed the controller. bad part was that i couldn't get more than 15 psi...4d56t intake manifold has a valve that opens at 15 psi and relieves excess boost....
make sure u DO NOT buy a cheap $300-400 no name boost controller please! they spike like mad! spend yuh money on reputable parts. and make sure yuh vehicle well maintained and checked....oil levels etc etc... and have a time!!

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fear and sanity hinders a driver's true capability.. psychosis renders mine limitless

yea madcoolie.. Solid advice given there... Basically same thing I was saying, but you can get excellent manual boost controllers in the states for that same $300-$400 tt price range but i guess price going to up drastic after that...

When you did it on your 4d56t, how much power gain would you say was felt vs how much worse did fuel economy get?
Did you tune with a wideband A/F ratio or did you just adjust fuel flow until it stopped smoking..

Nice info here on tuning diesels..

What is the fuel pressure like on a typical diesel engine? Can you simply install a fuel pressure gauge and use that in adjusting / the fuel pump?

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It's not leaking oil, it's sweating power!

how does one go about determining the air/fuel ratio on a diesel engine

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Side-B Keep on Truckin!!!
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I can't really see a wideband oxygen sensor lasting long in a diesel's exhaust.. especially considering the soot involved..

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It's not leaking oil, it's sweating power!

okay my apologies. Does anyone have any information on adjusting the fuel diesel pump if more "fuel" is needed?

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Wraithe

Well diesels tend to be more forgiving than gas engines in terms of stoich ratio, and as a rule its always safer to run them slightly rich, hence my suggestion that you just dial up the fuel flow until it runs rich and lean it out slowly..

Basically you can lean it out to a point where you feel like it smokes and acts like it did before, just with the extra boost... Its not really exact science but i dont see it being TOO risky if done right..

Would be interesting to try using a wideband though, wouldnt most modern disels come with O2 sesnors? If so, why not give it a try for tuning..

Okay, let me go abbut this differently. How do you adjsut the pump in a WLT engine to tune it? I see information on pump timing and leaning or richer.

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Wraithe

The pump is supposed to have some sort of adjustment screw or lever on it...

My Pajero has one thats pretty visible under the hood, basically its like an adjustable fuel regulator but it came stock..

i think most modern Di engines have a timing control sensor and a boost compensator, which adjusts the fuel and timing to the boost delivered, that's why u don't be real rich out of boost and lean on boost............

correct me if im wrong please....

ftw, i wont be adjusting my boost, she is good to me as is....

we did adjust the boost on a 3C-T weekend gone tho, we disco the waste gate line and plugged it, boost went from 0.7 bar to 1.1 bar, with no adjustments to the pump, car pulls healthy with load, better take off, and no excess smoking, so i under the impression the BC is doing its job.....

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nice read guys...but me aint playing with my diesel engine

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The thrill of speed must overcome the fear of death.

im soooo tempted to investigate this im a diesel noob , came from a mitsubishi vr-4 so im missing the acceleration , great post i was gonna ask this

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with great horsey power comes great responsibility

fellas, good day. i have a frontier D22 2.5, i am lookin for the turbo (YD25) to purchase... if u can assist it would be greatly appreciated

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Regards,
Brentte

fellas good day, just lookin for some advice, i have a YD25 D22 4x2, but my turbo gone (cause unkown)... tried sourcin another but they few an far to find. a mechanic told me he can do a swap usin the RB20 turbo an just customisin the top an bottom flange to line up with my exhaust manifold... i want to find out how safe or wat views you all may have on this, im not tooo verse with turbos an stuff. thanks

I installed a manual boost controller on the 4d56 Turbo engine in my K14 L200.

and adjusted fuel pump so that its a bit rich. I leave it set there. So I smoke a bit if hitting the pedal hard. I turn up on the boost when I want to. then turn it back down..

initially i did notice a big difference in the power of the vehicle.
acceleration ie.

but recently i noticed that there is less power when i turn up boost.

Im due for a service (filters, oil) .. but im yet to determine if turbo is going. (fins being worn down)

the MPG drops considerably. cant give an actual figure.. but my only consolation is cost of diesel.

also the extra heat involved.. engine temp goes up.. so make sure everyting is tip top as mentioned above.

long and short of it... as accord man said... prob dont make much sense tinkering wit the diesel on an everday ride.

From what I've been reading about my particular diesel, the 300tdi, the approach is to add fuel via pump adjustments but NOT using 'rich' as a safe mode,
in fact it is the opposite, since in diesel combustion: more fuel = higher exhaust gas temperature. It is safer in fact to start lean and add fuel until the power increase is apparent, very little smoke is seen, and preferably if you can add an EGT probe to the ex manifold and keep temperatures in a safe zone for not melting any aluminum or overloading your cooling system.

why would one want more boost in a diesel engine?

im hitting 0.8 bar, stock setting, and dont even be at full boost 75% of the time, im crusing around the main roads and highways 60-80kms and boost on 0 bar most times....

anyway for me, my 1KZ 3.0 is very thirsty, i struggle to get 400ks out of a $85 tank. so anything i can do to better my mileage i will do.....so less boost, less fuel consumption....

now raising boost is very simple, add in a controller, crank 19psi and jam out....

but whats really going on inside the engine???

with this increase boost, and increase fuel delivery is called for, also a shift in timing, yes, a timing advance, with more boost and more fuel there will be higher EGTs, not to mention stock intercooler setup and stock exhaust...........ah go hear bout allyuh.......is only two places yuh going, for parts or for a ride in dass is class........i had my fair share with opening up the KZ, it cost me almost 20K, changing cylinder heads twice, all because of opening up, kicking down, flooring out to jus kick some next muffler bearing like my self behind........thank god was not the ride in dass is class i went for, and hope my friends none of you do because of your fast 4X4.....

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You can't just increase boost as you please. Most modern CRD engines have a boost limiter built in. Mine kicks in at about 20 psig, so while my stock boost is 14.7 psig, the max boost on the controller set so that it does not cross 18.5 psig.

I don't know if older engines have the boost limiter.

Anyway there are methods to bypass the boost limiter, but once you go beyond this limit, the turbo loses efficiency and you greatly increase the wear on the bearings etc.

val, what vehicle u running?

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fear and sanity hinders a driver's true capability.. psychosis renders mine limitless

When you are looking to increase power in any engine, be it gas or diesel. One should consider improving your exhaust. Remember the more you can squeeze the gases in the cylinder and fast you can get it out the more power you will make. Therefore, while increasing boost, you should see an increase in power. But with exhaust mods, the power is much greater.
In addition, with free flowing exhaust the heat build up is much less, therefore, allowing more boost.

3.2 Sportero.