the front doors are cable operated, so if u can swap everything from the donor door (glass and brackets too) then great, cuz there's a track that runs vertical with two pulleys on either end that the winder cable runs on
the rear doors I believe are the same between powered and manual with the exception of the powered regulator from the donor door so I don't think u'll have a problem there...it's the same 4 10-bolts in the same line-up
wiring involves running power to the main switch in the driver's door (fused connections and everything eh..doh want no fires) which involves squeezing them through the little rubber gromet/sleeve (same for all doors)
if the manual doors have no rubber sleeve for wires then u can get at Sham's or u can McGuyver it with a drill, rubber gromets, split loom and black silicone (yuh hand hadda be steady)
then u need to make a harness for each other door and run them through (make them long enough to run along the corners like factory so u don't have unsightly bumps under your carpet
then if u getting whole powered doors, u gonna get power locks with it too, so u wanna incorporate that into your harness one time
so make arrangements for say 6-8 wires per door (different colours will help)..use very thin, like 18AWG-14AWG max (provided the insulation isn't outrageously thick like speaker wire) as many strands as possible for durability and ease of snake-ing(is that a word?) the harness along corners and through holes...split loom makes the harness look neat, but since it running under the carpet anyway, electrical tape will make it tighter
solder all connections (more durability than twisted ones) and for neatness and quickness, heat shrink tubing can be used to insulate soldered joints rather than electrical tape
it's a fair amount of work but nothing that can't be done in a weekend completely undisturbed with a little basic electrical knowledge, some tools and a multimeter