got my hands on a FC3S Silicon Radiator hose kit for $495.00 but because the rad is too thick, it needed cutting to fit properly. Next step rearend bushings, I find i putting it off too long, also stepping up to the thicker Series 5 rear sway bar.

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ok so finally decided to work on my rear end. The goal was to poly fill some of the existing bushings and also install what we had remaining from the Protane Bushing kit which was the rear C-Arm bushing.

First thing was to drop the entire rearend, so that's remove the exhaust, driveshaft, rear shocks and the main bolts





We did not want to drain any brake fluid so just tied the rear caliper to the shock. So first, we replaced the front diff mount which was busted clean (guess tooo much burnouts ) . What we realized is that once the two main diff mounts are weak, the front diff mount will tear. So we got our hands on liquid urethane (thanks to miggy ) and filled these mounts also the mounts holding the rear end.



Next we changed out the rear C-Arm Bushing to one from my Protane poly kit.

[img]http:550:413]http://forums.trinituner.com/upload/20100414143037_DSC00201.JPG[/img]

(Oh I sell these Protane FC3S RX-7 bushing kits - $1300.00 so if anybody want)

When we were done, left the liquid urethane to dry for a day and put the rear end back up with the new Series 5 rear sway bar. Will take pics of that later.

NEXT : Time to make the girl kinda sexy.........

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You started today?

You have front and rear sway bars?

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Really interested in this specific part of your build.

Should help me understand a weird issue that's been hard to pinpoint

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when is our next run

the next run is the 25th of April boy.

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I have front Series 5 and rear Series 4.

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meh car gettin cob web!!!!!

Check sumn, you ever changed your lateral link bars?

I changed back bushings and still hearing some squeaking, put it on a ramp and checked and seems like the lateral link joints is the issue

You have?

The links come complete or separated?

Not trying to spam the thread just that the rear end work really relevant right now

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haha no boy you would never spam my thread LOL. I always happy to help. You would not hear the squeaking from link bars, you sure the rear shock heads are good???

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Can't guarantee they are good

All of the suspension being addressed is next priority in the list

I wondered about the link bar rubbers but hadn't completely ruled out the shocks

It's a weird squeaking...very annoying

Will jack it up soon and verify

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We all have a story to tell.
This is mine.
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http://autotechworld.wordpress.com/
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hmm that is definitely sounding like shock heads gone bad they squeak just like that!! recently changed the rubbers in the head and all noises stopped. wait i should have added that in the build too LOL

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thanks man...will let you know

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hmm now i looking for a good front bumper before i paint...

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nice, wish i had the space, tools and mechanic skills to do meh own madness, kool stuff!

u got the bumper yet?

got my hands on an aftermarket front sway bar, looks like 45mm with upgraded metal links.

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handling and precise cornering greatly improved...the front planting hmm now to look for a rear....

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good goin man...great car u building there....

bess project

ok ppl by surprise, and I was not even looking for it I got the legendary Knight Sports RF320 Turbo. Now if you remember I have the Knight Sports 4-beat ECU that works at .9 bar (12.7psi). This turbo is MADE for this ECU and set at .9!! i even removed my boost controller, don't need it anymore. the car is crazy and i think i good with the power output. NOW
I ready to do body work, I only putting it off yes!

The turbo was a direct bolt in with just the turbo intake piping had to do over to 2.75" from 2" because of the larger compressor wheel and housing.

Looks like the car going to be a T&T knight sports car lol

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sweet...

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Power like WOW!

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what kinda power we looking at here
do a dyno b4 the body shop nah

boy when i get time yes...according to knight sports that setup supposed to be 260WHP+ but i will confirm that when i reach.

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Update?

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well looking at body work, not realy concerned with the dyno, it's not a top thing to do on my list lol. Trying to get in some carbon parts, will update as soon as things start happening...

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absolutely stunning....loving the KS turbo and matching ecu combo!


what rear struts and springs are you using? my sa22c has fc turboII ir suspension grafted on and the front is converted as well to fc. fronts have tein adjustable coils and rear has fixed height, damper adjustable ohlins shock+springs. i want to upgrade as well and your direction seems to be as good as i'd aim for. need to make the suspension faster than the car!

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FS: One (1) set FET Sports 16" staggered wheels [5*114.3; 16x8 front; 16x9 rear; three piece lightweights]

Well it's Tokico Illuminas and Intrax lowering springs. The problem with putting FC suspension on a SA is the weight of the car is too light for the shocks you bounce around a lot plus even with the coilovers you don get good camber adjustment.

If I had to do a FB/SA I would use first gen Tokico HP or Illumina with a good lowering spring (racing beat etc.) with the RE-SPEED hub adaptors to use FC brakes. They have for the front and rear. They used to have for only GSL-SE but now I believe you can get for GSL as well.

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ok so got my hand on some new gauges, Autometer ES line. They lightup red, I wanted something close to the stock lighting which is amber. Bought boost,water temp in C and oil pressure. Using a Glowshift pod that fits directly in a DIN (deck space) i fit the 3 where the AC vents were facing slightly right towards me.

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