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3stagevtec
 Post subject: Brass / Teflon Bushings?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 1:58 am 
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I heard someone mention them a while back and now I am wondering exactly how practical are they?

For heavy vibration dampening bushings, such as engine / transmission, rubber will be best.. but what about for certain suspension bushings? I keep busting a certain polyurethane bushing in my front control arms (the pivot point where the control arms mount to the chassis) and now I am getting abit curious if a brass bushing could substitute. Anyone have experience with this?

Road noise and vibration is not an issue for me.


Last edited by 3stagevtec on Thu Apr 26, 2012 1:39 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Big Z
PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 7:29 am 
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You can have it re-made from polyurethane by Rodney's Machine Shop, Garth Road, closer to Williamsville side.
Rodney - 366-3489

You need to be mindful of the design of the bushing. Some bushings need to flex, like the 2000 Mazda 323 below. You will not be able to use solid stiff bushings (brass/teflon)with this design.
Image

This one, from a 2003 US spec Sentra, does not need to flex as the pivot points are on the same axis.
Image

Teflon bushings (available at many machine shops, Apex in Gasparillo comes to mind) have a very harsh ride. You will also need to change your cradle arms instead of changing bushings, so know what you are possibly getting into wrt maintenance.


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3stagevtec
PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 1:48 pm 
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I have pivot bushings on my control arm..

Image

Looking at the design, I doubt the ride comfort with significantly degrade to the point of me damaging other stuff, plus I have upgraded ball joints on the arm, so they can take a beating.

I've never dealt with Teflon, so I have no clue what that material is like, will look into it..


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Big Z
PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 1:59 pm 
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From the angle, I cannot tell accurately if those two pivot points are on the same axis.
It appears to me that they are not...but have a look and verify with a line and a level.
If and only if they are on the same axis, you will be able to use solid bushings (brass or teflon).

If the pivots are on different axes, and you use solid bushings, that arm is not going to move anymore...


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3stagevtec
PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 2:36 pm 
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They are on the same axis with each other.


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DIS1
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:00 am 
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Do you install the bushings yourself? Or is a shop doing it for you?
P/U bushings fail for a very few reasons, the primary one being a lack of proper lubrication. Secondly,if the suspension is tightened up unloaded, the weight of the vehicle when placed on the ground will preload the bushing setting it up for failure. Thirdly poor quality bushings: there are many manufacturers and not many quality ones. If they were cheap to buy then they may just be that, cheap.
From what you said I think one of these issues may be what you are dealing with. I have seen it many times.
Whatever you do DO NOT put Brass (Sintered Bronze) on your daily driver suspension it will destroy the weld joints of the car over a period of time. You will begin to hear squeaks and rattles which you will never be able to find.

DIS


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X_Factor
PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2012 4:58 pm 
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what about teflon?


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3stagevtec
PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 1:38 am 
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X_Factor wrote:
what about teflon?


I got a look at a Teflon bushings for the 1st time yesterday and it is exactly what i need. The Teflon bushings appears similar to polyurethane but are much harder. Most good machine shops can take a piece of solid Teflon (expensive) and machine that down into whatever shape you require..

For pivot point bushings, Teflon would be ok.. Bushings where small flex is required, Teflox would be a bad idea..


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cinco
PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 9:58 am 
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be mindful with use teflon actually begins to wear the metal so it slides out of the hole it is in


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ruffnek
PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 10:25 am 
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Teflon are real agressive for everyday driving....

as cinco said you will get wear where you don't want


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