I have a fear of having too big terminal holes..



Also fear of alternator failure(them thing na cheap).


SSC i was just asking if you ever did any cars big 3 with 0awg..

alt won't fail because the 'current pipe' from it is larger.... it will if you demand too much of it. With even 4AWG you can demand too much from a stock alt.


Anyway, I gonna do over mine with 0 or 2 b4 month's end since the 4AWG that's there came with the car and is old looking and getting stiff. Bigger alt too is the main reason.

just read the bold part, ignore everything else.. you misread what they are talking about..

with ANY size wire, if there is an improper connection / slack connection / inadequately sized connector etc, that will cause an area of higher resistance, that section of high resistance will become heated when there is large current flow through the wire..

larger diameter wire has less resistance overall, which means more current transfer and less heat in the wire..

^^ Got a solution gonna try it and pass by bicks to see if they have rav4 alts just in case..

obviously you won't have a slack connection in ur big 3.... yuh mad owat

if you need any help in soldering up the connections, lemme know..

i would recommend in using a copper or brass washer when connecting the terminal to your alternator, it would increase the contact area, thus preventing any chance of melting..

Dude that is the plan self...what you doing this weekend? Gimme a call.

or you can head to any eltrical store and buy copper ring terminals

blank terminals?

but wait

that what u sad there



wont that come like putting a 20amp fuse and another 60amp fuse b4 it?

i don;t think that will solve the problem, because the the original ring terminal remains the same,and the washer will just become an extension of the alternator's contact

also,the more anything you put between there, you increase resistance right?

in the design of the alternators is it even possible that the studs are of adequate conductivity for its size and not be a restriction causing melt down?

And more over... for a stock alt he eh hadda worry bout nutting

Is this upgrade necessary with a diesel vehicle( Frontier)
because i see that they already come sith sum thick wires

get a digital multimeter, set it to DC Voltage, place the positive lead on your alternator output terminal and place the negative lead on the positive battery terminal..

the meter will now read the voltage drop across the alternator output wire..

turn on as much electrical load in your vehicle as possible (e.g. high beams, AC, crank up the music etc) and note the voltage drop you see.. anything over 0.3 - 0.5V of drop means you gotta upgrade the wire.. if it reads very close to zero, your wires are of adequate size..

the wire terminal will be touching both the alternator output stud and the nut to hold it down.. increase the contact area between either two and the ring terminal and the overall resistance will drop..

longer wire = more resistance
thicker wire = less resistance

in this case we are trying to make the wire 'thicker' in a sense..


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and by the way, this should only be of concern when using those ultra high output alternators.. you wouldn't have any issues with most factory alternators..

kool, ill check it when the rain eases up

I'm about to do this myself next weekend. I just have one question for those who've already done so:

Where exactly is the Engine block ground located on the QG15DE. I've looked at a few instructional videos and in some cases the connection was run to location that already had a stock ground connection.

If there isn't one on the QG, where would you guys recommend as a safe place to secure it.

there MUST be an engine block to chassis ground connection.. run the thicker wires in the stock location, if you can't find it, use the safest point on your engine to connect to your chassis..

make sure you run your wires away from sources of high heat / fans / belts / pulleys etc.. leave a little slack on the wire as well to allow for engine movement..

In those engines, the grounding spot is on the transmission casing, just under the battery tray.

Thanks 3stagevtec and silent_riot . I'll look for the connection later and do the upgrade over the weekend.

After that i'll look at changing my alternator. I hear the Tiida has 140A ? That should be enough for my system cause I don't think my current 80A Alt can keep up.

me_ngod4eva, hey so ur back in town & u putting back in d music ...

Hey (...Rovin...), Yeah man I'm back in town for a while, so the Project continues...Headlights Dimming when I crank up the bass so I'm trying to rectify that fast.

Oh and the Box survive the Flood boy.(phew)... Baptized the Comps in a bucket of water, washed them off and they playing like nothing happen

I'll check you when i'm done so you can hear it.

Has anyone really notice a difference with the big 3 upgrade ???

Yes

yes saw a instant difference - used to normally be 13.8-9 & when i did it it went up to 14.2 ...


me_ngod4eva,

cool man - i want to make a even better box so that when d lows hit u cant breathe ....

SWEET

It already have people jumping out the car when it hits...Last week my pardna tell me it clear his Sinuses...lol

1st time i hear that 1 .....

actually no I didnt..

^^^ i saw a difference when i did the big 3, the stock wires in the honda accord were 8 gauge and i upgraded them 2 4 gauge, except the battery to chassis which i did in zero gauge.

i noticed a difference with dimming lights when playing music. also i not sure if this is to attribute to the big 3 but bass is also slightly deeper, and amps run a little less hot, in terms of voltage i really cannot say as yet, but will check later.

also what i wanna do next is change the battery to chassis ground to the shock tower apparently this is a better place than stock.

Is this the Connection you're talking about? It's just under the Battery tray as u described but the Battery Negative runs to it.
Can I also use this point for the Engine Block to Chassis Connection?




Or is this location better to use?

^ either will do.. actually, any free bolt on your engine block will work..

but pick the safest of the two locations! connect your engine to a cleaned point on your chassis, and connect that same point to the negative terminal on your battery.. that is the best possible connection setup for grounding..

another thing, don't remove your factory wires.. if in case the new wires you run have a fault, you can fall back on the factory wiring..