JDM Guy's Car Blog (02/10/2017. Engine upgraded)

[COROLLA KID]

sorry i didn't "pop" you back on the hiway bro...horn not working..lol.

[Gx7]

Low temp isn't always better and stock clusters aren't the most accurate means of measurement.

well my stock cluster works well due the when it reaches half the fan comes orn so that normal working temp ........

Low temp isn't always better

explain why

[r3iXmann]

Low temp isn't always better and stock clusters aren't the most accurate means of measurement.

well my stock cluster works well due the when it reaches half the fan comes orn so that normal working temp ........

Low temp isn't always better

explain why

if the car isn't running at optimal operating temperature and running too cold all the time, then it will run rich

you can mitigate this on a race car but for a daily driver..well..

[Gx7]

but for a daily driver..well..

well that's d point i needed someone to make these b16a , b18c , d15b are not so muc or full race engines that's y lots of people go extreme in buying expensive BRAND NAME PARTS and get the same results as stock parts ...... had a long talk about this temp issue and other issues orn spending $$ orn parts with paul and it turns out if u follow d crowd and buy , u will spend more but if u think smart and buy smart u will make the same HP gains as the man with the big well known parts and be smiling with extra $$$ in ya pocket and u mite even make more hp than him

think about

[red_dragon]

To add Reix it is also important for race engine to reach work temp....
else is wear on cylinder etc ... everything need to reach temp hence a thermostat or restrictor plate is important in an engine

[Conrad]

but for a daily driver..well..

well that's d point i needed someone to make these b16a , b18c , d15b are not so muc or full race engines that's y lots of people go extreme in buying expensive BRAND NAME PARTS and get the same results as stock parts ...... had a long talk about this temp issue and other issues orn spending $$ orn parts with paul and it turns out if u follow d crowd and buy , u will spend more but if u think smart and buy smart u will make the same HP gains as the man with the big well known parts and be smiling with extra $$$ in ya pocket and u mite even make more hp than him

think about

So you're saying brand name parts dont tend to last longer (better quality)?

[r3iXmann]

but for a daily driver..well..

well that's d point i needed someone to make these b16a , b18c , d15b are not so muc or full race engines that's y lots of people go extreme in buying expensive BRAND NAME PARTS and get the same results as stock parts ...... had a long talk about this temp issue and other issues orn spending $$ orn parts with paul and it turns out if u follow d crowd and buy , u will spend more but if u think smart and buy smart u will make the same HP gains as the man with the big well known parts and be smiling with extra $$$ in ya pocket and u mite even make more hp than him

think about

So you're saying brand name parts dont tend to last longer (better quality)?

not necessarily so. maybe on other marques it might be different but with honda, generally 'big name' does not necessarily mean big performance or increased longevity

remember when DC headers were king?

well that's d point i needed someone to make these b16a , b18c , d15b are not so muc or full race engines that's y lots of people go extreme in buying expensive BRAND NAME PARTS and get the same results as stock parts

yup..and that's why people (except parts salesmen) laugh at Honda men

[red_dragon]

concerning aftermarket rad on stock engines.... over kill but people switch because the plastic one fail after a while.

I have see make $$$ spent on Honda NA and Boosted engine and from the times they were build. There were alot more build with less parts and with higher gains.
If a man wants to spend $30k on an engine and fight for 200 that is his fault

With respect to spending or not spending and getting gains.
In the past few years I have followed some local build with people tryin one of the following or combination

1. OEM
2. Cheap parts ( poor R&D or quality)
3. Claimed Good low price aftermarket
4. Claimed Good High Price aftermarket.
5. Claimed bad low price aftermarket parts
6. Claimed bad high price aftermarket parts

results have always been
Poor quality parts = engine failure ( not low price) cheap quality
Builds with ever part from X catalog for small gains
Builds where all parts were bought to work together = best gains ( whether low price or high)


I have also seen where one companies stage 1 camshaft does not class with another.
both high price. ( one designed for drag,circuit , DD...)

Main thing people need to buy parts designed for their race class.

Do not expect a part designed for circuit or time attack to apply for drag racing and vice versa

[red_dragon]

but for a daily driver..well..

well that's d point i needed someone to make these b16a , b18c , d15b are not so muc or full race engines that's y lots of people go extreme in buying expensive BRAND NAME PARTS and get the same results as stock parts ...... had a long talk about this temp issue and other issues orn spending $$ orn parts with paul and it turns out if u follow d crowd and buy , u will spend more but if u think smart and buy smart u will make the same HP gains as the man with the big well known parts and be smiling with extra $$$ in ya pocket and u mite even make more hp than him

think about

So you're saying brand name parts dont tend to last longer (better quality)?

It does not matter.. it all boils down to how parts are treated.

[Conrad]

So wait, men does fork out money for brand name parts without research? Damn, Im in the wrong field of work.

[Conrad]

Btw as you mention radiator, OEM > Mishimoto, especially if dealer/seller not willing to support their no questions asked warranty replacement policy.

[red_dragon]

Mishimoto rad only dies after I used prestone in it.....
Went to get it repaired only to find out prestone kills Aluminum... well 2 rads mine and a Fluidyne(repair shop owner).
The cores became porous.

Conrad... no people like to go by hear say... and like a puzzle u have to make the correct piece fit

Oh that man running a stage 2 cam from X .. he car fast. I go try a stage 3 .. I go beat that.....

[Conrad]

True, true...

[Gx7]

Conrad... no people like to go by hear say... and like a puzzle u have to make the correct piece fit

Oh that man running a stage 2 cam from X .. he car fast. I go try a stage 3 .. I go beat that.....

so true

Mishimoto rad only dies after I used prestone in it.....
Went to get it repaired only to find out prestone kills Aluminum... well 2 rads mine and a Fluidyne(repair shop owner).
The cores became porous.

i running HONDA OEM coolant hope my mitsumoto holds out

[Gx7]

but for a daily driver..well..

well that's d point i needed someone to make these b16a , b18c , d15b are not so muc or full race engines that's y lots of people go extreme in buying expensive BRAND NAME PARTS and get the same results as stock parts ...... had a long talk about this temp issue and other issues orn spending $$ orn parts with paul and it turns out if u follow d crowd and buy , u will spend more but if u think smart and buy smart u will make the same HP gains as the man with the big well known parts and be smiling with extra $$$ in ya pocket and u mite even make more hp than him

think about

So you're saying brand name parts dont tend to last longer (better quality)?

not necessarily so. maybe on other marques it might be different but with honda, generally 'big name' does not necessarily mean big performance or increased longevity

remember when DC headers were king?

i runing a no name header and paid less than those brand names and when i compared the header
pipe size bends etc same thing jud dont have the fancy big name stamp

[CD4Accord]

Well I am not defending DC etc, but part of the reason that a DC header costs so much more than a no-name or why an AEM/injen/k+n intake costs more than some ebay pipe is that it is C.A.R.B. certified in the states. That certification process presumably is not cheap so a bit of it factors into the price. Obviously part of it is paying for a "name" as well.

Concerning the Mishimoto rad, I don't own one, but on all my Aluminium radiators I usually use Castrol coolant.
I trust Prestone, but only in my copper rads...

[Gx7]

^^^ so what about OEM in the mitsumoto ? u think it well hold up ?

[CD4Accord]

Most people claim Honda is fine for Al rads so I say you should be fine...

[RDK]

Been using OEM honda coolant in a mishimoto radiator for the past 4yrs with OEM thermostat on a b16a engine...no problem so far...

[Gx7]

Been using OEM honda coolant in a mishimoto radiator for the past 4yrs with OEM thermostat on a b16a engine...no problem so far...

Great !!!!

[COROLLA KID]

Just a noob question here, Whats the recommended Coolant to water ratio?

[JJ16]

^^ coolant to water?

if you using Honda Coolant, use honda coolant ONLY..not so?!

and IF you hadda mix, only IF, then you use bottle water, or your sh!t gets rusty and brown looking

[CD4Accord]

No you don't use bottled water.. You use de-ionised water.. Aka battery water

All the bottled water that you drink still has a lot of dissolved particles in it in varying ratios based on brand. It says it right on the side of the bottle.

Concentrate coolant is 1:1 with water (says it on the bottle)
Premixed is just that.. premixed

[JJ16]

^^ you can use Blue Waters bottle water.. its the worst water to actually DRINK, but it would serve the purpose in coolant.

Truth in what you saying, because it is prediluted with (de-ironized) water.
I've seen persons use battery water, i personally wont, i rather buy more coolant and just use that.

The water used in coolant contains (1 M at 20 oC, clear), *obviously colourless* but its used in embryo manipulation..

IMO drinking blue waters water is worst than drinking drain water yes

According to what you said, based on brand, but blue waters and coolant ftw if u wanna use water yes
(but thats just me, other people will use different methods or solutions)

correct me if im wrong, thats just my opinion/view

I think the only right way is just use coolant and more coolant yes.

[Gx7]

Just a noob question here, Whats the recommended Coolant to water ratio?

its labelled at the back of the coolant bottle ...different coolants carry different water Ratios

its better to use HONDA OEM 1 gallon does the job (D15b)

or castrol

[X2]

There are two big reasons to use coolant...

1) Reduce/Eliminate corrossion in the coolant system
2) Prevent the coolant from freezing in sub zero temps

The glycol coupled with the pressure in the cooling system allows the coolant mixtures to not only avoid freezing but cope with higher than standard water boiling point... but technically, in warmer climates, you can dilute with more water than normal and still maintain the properties you need as it will never freeze.

I use OEM Honda coolant because it seems to work perfect.... but then again... not running an aluminium radiator.

[Gx7]

i heard OEM coolant keeps the water pump seals moist , free from getting hard and cracking or losing its ability to seal

i could be wrong can any1 confirm this heard it from a mechanic from classic

[CD4Accord]

The idea is that OEM Honda (and other good quality coolants) are silicate-free. Hence they don't damage the water pump seals.

That is the idea anyway

[X2]

Many manufacturers use silicates for corrosion resistance... even Toyota.. The silicates don't damage the seals as far as I know.

[JDM_GUY]

New parts for autocross.