Effect of upgrading oil cooler on CVT - installed with pics!

[venum]

The pics really do not do justice to the install and the dents are not that bad.

Venum you remember I told you that there is a tool to strighten the fins what I was thinking is that the fins are not that damaged and may be a medium teeth come could help. Just a thought!

Thanxs ronsin1

I straightened out the fins today.

I used 2 small (tiny, Jeweller's set) flat-head screwdrivers. Took ~ 1/2 hour

all are more or less perfect now.

I will post some better pics soon

the fins aren't straight, but corrugated, so teh comb, might not be able to work

teichou fluid was bought at Marud Distributors on Union Road, Marabella @$65.00 per quart.

krack korn Thank you for your comments. They can be used to better constructively evaluate teh install and its application. Sorry I didn't mention it before.

The the bumper only blocks ~ 1/3 of the cooler, the grill underneath and the part of the grill on the bonnet allows for great airflow on teh rest of teh cooler.

IMHO there is maximum airflow on the cooler in this application and orientation of teh cooler,

To put a cooler that would get no blockage [by the bumper] would have resulted in a small one directly in front of teh grill either below or above the bumper.

The cooler I have installed takes advantage of both areas of airflow AND allows for more fluid flow for cooling, by nature of it's size.

As for the foam inserts, there are none, at least that I can see.

the vertical edges of the cooler are thicker than teh horizontal sides, so it keeps the body of the cooler off the AC condenser

[3stagevtec]

I bought the Hayden Automotive Transaver Transmission Cooler today. Got it for $400 at Kaimraj in Debe.

At the back of the box, they wrote:

"With each 20degF drop in operating temp, your oil and equipment life doubles."

If that's true, then a tranny cooler is a pretty good investment...

Also they suggested two types of installation connections:

In Series - The recommended cooler connection is "in series" installation. It utilizes the existing cooling system and complies with most new car warranties. This method provides maximum cooling by returing the coolest oil directly to the transmission.

Replacement - This method should be used if the existing cooling system is damaged and repair costs are excessive. The replacement installation may void new car warranties and will provide less total cooling than the "in series" installation. This application requires an oil cooler one or two sizes larger.

Hey Venum, what you think??

[Marct]

Instal looks good neat, how the car operating after traffic,easy acceleration etc.....

[venum]

Instal looks good neat, how the car operating after traffic,easy acceleration etc.....

I am actively engaged in testing,

I have almost perfect test conditions

My CS3 with the upgraded oil-cooler and another identical CS3 with the stock oil-cooler.

both have the same kind of engine oil, filters etc

reports and pics are currently WIP (I already have some data) and will make it available soon.

Stay tuned

[3stagevtec]

^ looking forward...

[ronsin1]

just bought a PRO/GAUGE cooler @ Jurawans in Diego Martin it cost $375.00 with all the mounting brackets and connectors.

Will be doing my install over the weekend!

[3stagevtec]

ronsin1, what's the dimensions of your cooler?

I have a 15 7/8" x 5" x 3/4"...

[ronsin1]

^^^^^ I'll have to check but it similar to the one venum just installed but from the way it looks it abt. the same size you have but I'll check to verify when I get home ..The instructions said that it should be connected in series wth the stock cooler as you stated earlier

[3stagevtec]

i'll be connecting my aftermarket cooler in series with my stock cooler, but i'll need to find a way to quantify whether it is making a difference or not...

[Yeo]

This is what I did when I had Sebring

Trans Cooler Install
Transmission Cooler Install

Tools required:

10 and 12mm Socket and Driver
Screwdriver
Cutters


1. Remove Air Intake
2. Unbolt radiator supports from the top and push radiator towards the engine (lean it against the engine)
3. Take cooler- clamps and transmission line- out of box
4. Remove the RIGHT transmission cooler line from the transmission- and from the stock coolers metal connector – remove the line completely
5. Take cooler and place is in between the radiator and the condenser in this new space you have created.
6. Connect a line on the top and on the bottom of the cooler
7. The bottom line should connect to the transmission and the top line will feed into the stock coolers connector
8. Cut transmission lines to desired lengths and clamp them down
9. Place radiator in stock position and bolt it into place- thereby sandwiching the new cooler
10. Take plastic ties and stick them through the front bumper until they go through the frills of the condenser/cooler/radiator
11. Use plastic clips and tighten as such, and cut off excess plastic
12. Check all clamps again, and replace air intake
13. Add ¼ quart of transmission fluid
14. Run car and check for leaks

[venum]

i'll be connecting my aftermarket cooler in series with my stock cooler, but i'll need to find a way to quantify whether it is making a difference or not...

a lot of my research indicated that to maximize teh effect of teh cooler, you should condemn the stock

one reason is that it will cause a bottleneck in the fluid flow, since most after-market one have a bigger bore on the tubing

my mech also advised to condemn the stock.

car is responding nicely guys

[ronsin1]

ok installed my cooler last night at shannons auto garage on leotard street down stairs mings cost $200.00 it seems to be running better but I did a complete tune up. I cannot say for sure how the response time is until I give her a proper run


3stagevtec


The cooler is the same demensions as yours.

It could not be installed the same way venum one was installed (I also have a CS)cuz it was bigger what I did was install it on the bumber next to the grill and had to raise the number plate a couple of inches to get the maximum air flow.

[3stagevtec]

i'll be connecting my aftermarket cooler in series with my stock cooler, but i'll need to find a way to quantify whether it is making a difference or not...

a lot of my research indicated that to maximize teh effect of teh cooler, you should condemn the stock

one reason is that it will cause a bottleneck in the fluid flow, since most after-market one have a bigger bore on the tubing

my mech also advised to condemn the stock.

car is responding nicely guys

looks like i gotta do more research... (if i'm gonna install the cooler by itself, i'll get my cooler exchanged for a slightly larger one, just to make sure..)

thanks

[ronsin1]

actually you might not a stated before my cooler is the same size and actually slightly bigger than venum's and could not fit in the same place so I had to mount it on the bumper.

I was looking at a partner's civic (EK3 not sure if it applies to you) last night and it would seem that you may have to take down the bumber to install the cooler did you take that into consideration cuz I see no where that you can easily mount it on the condenser!

[3stagevtec]

On my EK3, there's alot of free space to play with between the radiator (and condenser) and the front bumper. so mounting room shouldn't be much of a problem...

but it seems like i might have to remove the bumper to get to do the install properly.. i hope my mech can work around that..

I'll be installing my cooler on Sunday 6th next month.. plenty research time!

[Spyrogyra]

I had to put one on my car when I put in a Koyo rad. it's a good reliability mod.

[3stagevtec]

Spyrogyra, did you place yours in-line with your stock cooler or as a stand alone unit?

[3stagevtec]

So i went today to talk to my mech about how to install the tranny cooler and he said the best way is to install it by itself. He said the same thing that Dave said earlier about the heat from the rad....

Then i continued my research on the net and everything i found said that the best way to install a tranny cooler is to plumb it on the return line from the stock cooler.. :roll:

http://www.bulkpart.com/transmission-cooler.html

The most often asked question is should I bypass the radiator cooler when I install a auxillary cooler.
Most cooler manufactures and automobile manufactures information we have read, recommends installing the coolers In-Series with the factory radiator cooler for maxium cooling efficiency.
So unless the manufactures who have spent 1000's of hours testing different installations are wrong, the suggested cooler installation is in-series......
Transmission > Radiator cooler > Auxillary cooler > then Back to the transmission.
If you must bypass the radiator because the cooler tube is leaking or for other reasons, be sure to increase the size cooler you install by 1 to 2 sizes.

http://www.grandprix.net/upgrades/cooler.html

It is normally preferable to have the external cooler plumbed in series with the return line. This provides the most efficient cooling by about 5%.

http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=40&Itemid=1



http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runner/tech/trancooler/

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/tcool.html

http://www.perma-cool.com/faq/coolers.html

http://www.iroczone.com/projtranscooler.htm

a lot of my research indicated that to maximize teh effect of teh cooler, you should condemn the stock

one reason is that it will cause a bottleneck in the fluid flow, since most after-market one have a bigger bore on the tubing

my mech also advised to condemn the stock.

where did you find your information?

and wouldn't having a bigger bore on the aftermarket tubing reduce the bottleneck effect??

[venum]

^^^ yes having a bigger bore on the aftermarket will reduce teh bottleneck IF you install it by itself.

if you install it together with the stock, then the bottleneck will still be there as fluid will only flow as fast as the bore on teh stock allows

I got info all over the net

[3stagevtec]

^ ok understand that..

but i'll say that there wouldn't be much of a bottleneck anyway, because the fluid will still be flowing at the rate (or close to that) of the stock system..

anyways, my research continues...

[ronsin1]

Ok had the chance to run the car on the hiway today I find it give better performance it's responding nicely the gears are changing faster thus less gas consumption no more slugish take off (but that may be because of the oil change)!

All in All I think it was a good investment!!!

[venum]

^^^ yes, that can be attributed to the new oil though

and in your case, new mounts

[ronsin1]

^^^ that is also true!

But remember the new mounts were installed more than a week before the oil was changed there was a diffrence but it as enhanced when the oil and cooler was installed

[3stagevtec]

hey ronsin1, how long do you drive for before you feel a difference? and under what conditions does that difference occur? e.g. highway runs, heavy traffic??

[ronsin1]

^^^ don't really be in traffic my car is not normally used for daily running but more so over the weekends but the conditions I ran the car was on the highway on last saturday and normal round the town travelling this is where I felt the diffrence.

I cannot say for traffic conditions for I did not have a heavy traffic presence when I use the car!

[venum]

^^^ watch the temp gauge when next u on the hiway

[ronsin1]

^^^ actually I did I have a habit of watching my temp gauge, so I did notice the diffrence!

[venum]

REPAIRED DENTS:

here are some of the pics of the repaired dents:

pretty simple repair process really - just used two small flat-head screwdrivers and some patience and TLC







almost like they were never dented, if I do say so myself

was a lil tricky getting the dents lower down, inside the bumper but wasn't too hard

CAPPED-OFF OEM COOLER

Here is a pic of the capped-off OEM cooler tubes, using ronsin1's suggestion of a single piece of hose:



I used ~ 7" of 3/8" water hose. You can see that each piece has a hose clamp on it. These really weren't necessary as the hose fit pretty tightly over teh tubing, but I still put them in for good measure and completeness

This cost like $13.00 (1 ft hose + 2 clamps)

[3stagevtec]

you have a bigger cooler than me...

[venum]

TESTING RESULTS:

This is the result of my testing to date:

CONDITIONS:

1. The test was done on the SSH highway from the Tarouba turn-off to the Chaguanas (Montrose) turn-off and back for the night test and from the Tarouba turn-off to the Forress Park turn-off for the day testing

2. 1 bone stock CS3 was used (stock oil cooler) and my CS3 (aftermarket oil cooler)

3. Both CS3's were using the same engine oil (Shell Helix plus 15W-50), ASCO oil filters, Sakura air filters

4. Same driver during testing - Me (Driving style was maintained constant as far as possible)

5. The test was basically conducted while cruising on the highway and observing the engine temperature

6. Since this is not a laboratory test, I will not post further conditions

STOCK CS3

start crusing (100 km\h):



start acceleration, picked up the speed (140 - 160 km\h):



resumed normal speed ~120



the engine temp remained pretty much constant



CS3 WITH AFTER-MARKET OIL COOLER

start crusing (100 km\h):



start acceleration:











The engine temperature dropped significantly

resumed cruising speed



Back to normal driving ~ 100 km\h




Day test with aftermarket oil cooler:

normal driving\cruising:



acceleration:



Again, it can be seen that the engine temperature has dropped

Some other night shots on the same route:









sorry bout the quality of the pics

cellphone (Nokia 6131) camera and it's kinda difficult to get clean shots while driving


questions and comments welcome