Post your engine oil / grade / price / location

[DSM_05]

^^Use whatever works for you.

[CD4Accord]

I just can't bring myself to pay more than $175 a galon for a blend, no matter how good a brand it is...
Legally to be considered blend, a manufacturer must have 25% synthetic... Obviously, all the manufacturers therefore use 25% synthetic and 75% mineral to maximise profits..

I personally would just buy some actual synthetic instead of the Schaffers 7000... Total 9000 is cheaper, but if you want to stick with "boutique" synthetics, I'm sure you can have amsoil or royal purple for just a bit more...

[DSM_05]

^^LOL @ AMSOIL and RP being "boutique" oils. Those are quite mainstream nowadays.

Boutique oils are like Brad Penn, Wurth, Schaeffers, Motul, Idemitsu etc.

At the end of the day, the fellow can use whatever he likes..once he maintains a proper OCI. Keep in mind some turbocharged cars can be picky. Some of them eat up certain brands of oils, while other brands stay with no issues .....and that's on the same visco.

In some instances, people have had burn off issues with RP, others with Redline, others with AMSOIL etc etc. Just find what works for your car. Most people concur that Supreme 7000 tends to act more like a full synth, than some other actual synths out there. I suspect mainly cuz it's using a mineral which is near group 3 status, with a group 5 synthetic PAO base.

Oh yeah, I'm using Chevron Delo 400LE from Pmart in mih Tiida.

Paid like what...130-something a gallon was it?

[A172]

who in Central have Amsoil 10 40 the cheapest?

[ek4ever]

Ok ... decided to update thread with my experience with RP.

First off I'm not one of those who expect massive hp gains just by changing oil brand or spark plug or plug wires or using additives etc. I changed to RP just to see how it stacked up against the synthetics I used before.

I'm now into the second oil cycle so the engine has just about 12000kms on RP. What I've noticed .... well I have to admit that I've never felt the engine feel as strong as it does now. Looking back I haven't changed anything else except brand of oil. Still using same plugs, wires, gas, air filter, tyres, inflation pressures. No ECU upgrades or tuneups other than oil change. I've owned this car for 8 years and it has never driven this good. I honestly don't want to say RP is magic but really I just can't think of anything else that would contribute to how the car drives now.

Maybe a dyno would show no big power increase but I'm being surprised more often now at just how quickly this car gets up to speed, how it accelerates without needing a downshift ..... it will go from 140kmh to 180kmh with ease .... I've hit 170kmh in 3rd without realising it....

There are only two differences in my maintenance .... (1) switched from 15W50 to 10W30 and (2) swithced to RP. The engine didn't feel this way with RedLine 10W30 though so it's not just the weight.

I wished I had dynoed the car before switching to RP but it appears that this is the only thing that's contributing to the difference I feel with the car.

Oh yeah ... when I started my review on RP I was getting about 26mpg, I'm now averaging 29-30 mpg.

Don't know what else can be said

[DSM_05]

If I remember your FS post, your car had a fair degree of mileage on it.

Why switch from 50W back to 30W?

[ek4ever]

^^ True the car was high mileage when I switched weight. Did this after doing alot of research on motor oil and getting a far better understanding of oil weights. My owners manual also specifies 10W30 regardless of engine mileage ... I just used 15W50 before because I did not have the understanding of the relevance of oil weights and thinking that thicker was better. Fact is my engine works best with a 10W30 ... most Honda engines, according to Temple of VTEC, especially the B, high spec K, H and C series should use 10W30 or 5W30 oil.

[Back2Studio]

Under the guidance of one of the most experienced SR tuners I switched from Mobil1 15W-50($90 per qt) to Amsoil 10W-30 ($75 per qt) today. Working out well so far, opened out a little bit and doing the same thing as with Mobil1, which is good....will report back 12000km later.

[ek4ever]

Under the guidance of one of the most experienced SR tuners I switched from Mobil1 15W-50($90 per qt) to Amsoil 10W-30 ($75 per qt) today. Working out well so far, opened out a little bit and doing the same thing as with Mobil1, which is good....will report back 12000km later.

If possible try to monitor your fuel consumption and let us know what kind of improvements ur seeing if any. You should get some improvement just on the weight change alone.

[Dave]

^^I know people who moved from 10w-40 to 10w-30 in amsoil and saw a big difference in fuel comsumption including myself

[NR8]

Oh yeah, I'm using Chevron Delo 400LE from Pmart in mih Tiida.

Paid like what...130-something a gallon was it?

How come you using it in the Tiida though? On the label it says Heavy Duty Diesel Oil. Doh flame meh up nah, I'm just new to this. My dad bought it today, $135 a gallon.


On another note, I bought the Castrol Magnatec 20W-50. It says Synthetic Technology on the front so I was wondering, is this a full synthetic or semi? It's API SM rated. What's the change interval? I know mineral is up to 7500km. I used to do 5000km with my old engine but I just put in a QG15DE and changing oil for the first time so I would like to know. Paid $175/ gallon at La Romaine Pricesmart. Good price for this oil you think?

[CD4Accord]

Okish price for the Magnatec... It is a synthetic blend so it is probably only 25% syn...
I mean, its a decent price, but for $15 more I would definitely buy a full syntec Total 9000....

[NR8]

Thanks CD4Accord. I didn't really know anything about the Total until I searched the forums last night for info on the Castrol. I always used to think for some reason that it might have been as expensive as Amsoil and Royal Purple. My mech told me that the Shell synthetic blend in the blue bottle is good, but I heard it's over $200/ gallon. 10W 40 I believe it was, can't remember the name though.
Where is the Total 9000 available for $190? Different grades for same price?

[CD4Accord]

Total Quartz 9000 5w-40 is available for around ~$190 at autonation..
Will likely cost more elsewhere..

The Shell Helix semi-syn (blue bottle) is good but just isn't worth what they are charging for it now..

[ek4ever]

I'm thinking of trying Royal Purple HPS. It says it has higher levels of zinc/phosphorous anti-wear. I know it does not meet API SM classification because of this but it is not of concern to me since (1) my vehicle is not under warranty and (2) my vehicle does not have a catalytic converter.

Anyone have experience with this oil???

[Big Z]

higher levels of zinc/phosphorous anti-wear.

Only useful for a split second after you drain out all of the oil and decide to still run the engine without oil.
Ergo... not very useful and not usually worth the price.

[ek4ever]

higher levels of zinc/phosphorous anti-wear.

Only useful for a split second after you drain out all of the oil and decide to still run the engine without oil.
Ergo... not very useful and not usually worth the price.

Why would I want to run my engine without oil????

[Big Z]

Say, you get a huge oil leak.
As I alluded to, the higher levels of zinc/phosphorous is almost totally useless.

[Nasrallah]

Shell Helix Ultra (grey bottle), SS charged $65/quart.

Went private garage as warranty up...did not know how much it was until after they put it and got I the bill.... $95/quart

[Mendoza]

I beat u back
SHELL HELIX ULTRA(grey bottle) $98qt dindials auto chaguanas
Mobil 1 $85qt dindials auto chaguanas
NP ultra tec $225gal dindials auto chaguanas
NP ultra tec $67qt dindials auto chaguanas

[X_Factor]

amsoil xl, 55$ a quart, fully synthetic, 10,000 miles
cant find a better replacement than that!

[CD4Accord]

10,000 miles of course is just marketing hype and does not apply to any and everyone...
That should come with an extensive proviso list including..

1. Brand of filter used
2. Condition of engine in question
3. Driving habits
4. How long it takes to run up 10,000 miles

But hey, what do I know......

[X_Factor]

^ a filter change at 5000K's and an oil change at 8-9000k

[ek4ever]

Say, you get a huge oil leak.
As I alluded to, the higher levels of zinc/phosphorous is almost totally useless.

Why do you keep thinking that I had those conditions in mind when considering the RP HPS oil?

[Big Z]

I am pointing out the uselessness of the extra zinc/phoshphorous additive as well as the cost factor.
Whatever you make of it after that is pretty much up to you.

[Rory Phoulorie]

How come you using it in the Tiida though? On the label it says Heavy Duty Diesel Oil. Doh flame meh up nah, I'm just new to this. My dad bought it today, $135 a gallon...

That oil has API ratings for both diesel (CJ-4) and gasoline (SM) engines. Hence, it can be used in both types of engines.

[NR8]

Thanks Rory. Swear I didn't see the SM rating on the bottle. Only noticed the CJ -4.

[Rory Phoulorie]

Kendall 5W-40 and 10W-30 full synthetic oil for $38/quart, yes $38/quart, at the new fuel station in Piarco. If they are still there at that price tomorrow, I will purchase all the bottles that they have.

Walk with some paper towels though, it looks like a bottle on the shelf has a crack and is leaking cause the bottoms of all the other bottle are covered in oil.

[Rory Phoulorie]

Okay, an update on my post above. While the price tag says $38.00 (per quart), the correct price for the Kendall GT-1 5W-40 full synthetic is $66.00/quart. Not a bad price for a full synthetic.

But what irked me was the cashier did not even offer an apology for having the incorrect price tag on the oil. All she could say was "Yuh still wah de oyle?" Customer service in T&T is sorely lacking.

[X_Factor]

Amsoil XL = 55$ a quart from Dave on the forum.....doesnt get better than that imo....