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Hook
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Postby Hook » December 3rd, 2009, 11:16 am

ek4ever wrote:
Hook wrote:lol @ the "experience guy" who brings "facts" to the table against an oil he has never actually tried (ie. has no experience with said oil) but loves to have the last word.

This place really great inno!


You retarded or slow? I said using Mobil 1 than Castrol GTX....meant I switched from one to the other so I did notice a difference .... and to make it even clearer...on the same engine


No need to go emo, numbnuts, I wasn't speaking to you.
While your halfwit arse was watering whatever fell in your garden, the person I was referring to already responded.
But it's nice to know you see something wrong with that you're doing tho.

Have a good day sir.

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Postby nes123 » December 3rd, 2009, 2:33 pm

ek4ever wrote:
nes123 wrote:
x2floor wrote:despite a distasteful disposition shown by 1 member, some people including myself like to change oil once every 3 months/4,800kms as opposed to once every year/20,000kms. Ofcourse, some of us love to talk about evidence in here so for the benefit of those of us who don't know, please someone show me an engine using Amsoil synthetic motor oil that lasted longer than an engine using Castrol GTX being serviced as scheduled once every 4,800kms.

btw nes......$63./qt you say? Where you got that price from? I saw this from GEAR HEAD , he has them from $76.-$90./ qt.



what was distasteful about additonal information sharing? :|


by al means if your pocket is swollen enough to afford oil changes every 3 mths go right ahead..the 20k km interval is based on if you are running strickly highway and no traffic like I do....I doing 12k km in 1 yr no traffic...so for me it is a savings.....


additionally take your time an read the link I posted prior to your ranting before your ask rhetorical and redundant questions....we on tuner to share information and learn from each other...so please do not be offended in any way...as knowledeable as you may seem at times, you are not always right about everything....these guys make it their business to study oil compositions..this is what pays their bills..who are we to doubt when the proof is their....my example between the CS3 and NZE were just 2 measily self tests...how many of you in here can say you have tested both oils in 2 or more different cars?????....haven't seen anyone in this thread indicate they did..instead we have haters

I have nothing to gain from promoting oil sales...but you all have something to gain from experience...so try the two in your cars then see if your notice a difference


Don't take him on....x feel he is the fcuking encyclopedia when it comes to cars and everything automotive....who gives a sh1t on changing oil every 3 months or 4000kms....as if that is some great rule to live by....do you think you would do that with a BMW? No...you change the oil when the oil change light comes on and even on conventional oil you can reach between 6-8000kms.....using Mobil 1 you can go up to 15000kms (my moms 3 series regularly does 15000kms on Mobil 1 Extended) before the light comes on and the service manual recommends that you change oil when so indicated.

So with a good air filter, oil filter and quality synthetic a modern day Japanese engine can easily go 10000km between oil changes and not jeopardize reliability nor longevity


I never made any claim to be an encyclopedia..dumbarse...but apparently you claim to be by backing up his one-tracked opinion by an oil he has never apparently tried...he didn't indicate that he used it before to draw a comparo....I knw it also wouldn't matter to u whether ppl change oil at 4k km etc cuz your moms must be the one paying for it in ur car... :? ..but for us working men we try to save ever dollar we can

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ek4ever
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Postby ek4ever » December 3rd, 2009, 2:45 pm

^^LOL....not referring to you....x as in x2floor....I was agreeing with you

Second guess Thursday fuh real

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Postby acesinghit » December 3rd, 2009, 2:47 pm

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Last edited by acesinghit on January 24th, 2011, 6:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby minipresident » December 3rd, 2009, 3:11 pm

NP FTW without question!

NP 15 W40 fleet oil by the drum, bought at NP @ just about $3100.00

Works out to like $15.00 a quart.

used in diesel engines that remain on all day (includes turbo as well)

used on our gas engines as well (turbo included) all everyday drivers; with great results and without issue...

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Postby nes123 » December 3rd, 2009, 3:12 pm

Hook wrote:lol @ the "experience guy" who brings "facts" to the table against an oil he has never actually tried (ie. has no experience with said oil) but loves to have the last word.

This place really great inno!

You can be very disappointing at times eh HOOK :?
If you had read what was iterated PROPERLY, you wouldn't have made that remark.. I used both types...but I kind of hoping this wasn't directed at me



nes123
I have nothing to gain from promoting oil sales...but you all have something to gain from experience...so try the two in your cars then see if your notice a difference


*translation*

experience as in using various oils to know which works best for various applications....never said my experience... :|

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Postby nes123 » December 3rd, 2009, 3:15 pm

ek4ever wrote:^^LOL....not referring to you....x as in x2floor....I was agreeing with you

Second guess Thursday fuh real


oh firetruck.....hard luck now reading what ya say...long day :lol:

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Postby gt4tified » December 3rd, 2009, 9:45 pm

The following post is made in no way to boast but merely to give what I think is an accurate account of my experience with oils.

I have owned vehicle ranging from Honda Civics, Suzuki Jimny's with 120Y engines to Suzuki Swifts and Toyotas with high performance engines.

I used nothing but Shell Helix on all my Hondas....they worked well and didn't lose oil (yellow bottle stuff).

I used Castrol GTX on the Jimny with the nissan engine, and never had problems...this vehicle used to stand up to a lot of abuse, towing vehicles twice its weight, running off-road on weekends, sitting in traffic during the week.....and again, never any problems.

On the swift which is an older engine, I have done two oil changes...Castrol GTX when first bought with 77,XXXkm on the odo. At 82050km I changed and put in NP Ultra 20W50. I have since done over 6000km on this oil and it shows little signs of wear...but the engine now feels a little more less powerful than when it was changed so its time for a change. I however noticed no real difference between the GTX and the Ultra fwiw and this car I also have used with very little maintainence otherwise.

For the Toyota I have used Redline 5W15, Mobil 10W30 and Castrol Syntec 5W30. The redline was a bit too thin for that engine (3sgte) which naturally generates a lot of heat combined with our ambient temp of 30+ degrees...the engine was literally beating the beegeezes out of that oil and I was losing quite a bit due to this.

The Mobil to me never really felt right in the engine....its strange to describe. Plus I found that the Mobil was deteriorating in colour and texture much more rapidly than the redline. I also never liked how it sounded whether on idle or running.

Since using the Castrol Syntec, I have noticed a notable difference in power and wear and tear on the oil....the engine has run very healthy, albeit losing some oil but after dropping the engine to re-build it seems that this was due more to an engine seal issue than anything else.

The engine is now re-built to produce 150% more power than from the factory, and I am currently deciding what oil to use. I have been advised to use 10w30 semi-synthetic or even mineral, if available to break-in and then a full synthetic of same grade or no heavier than 10w40 after break in.

I am currently considering three options for the running oil after break-in:

1. Castrol Syntec
2. Amsoil
3. Royal Purple

I'll let you guys know how it goes, in time to come. :wink:

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Hook
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Postby Hook » December 3rd, 2009, 9:59 pm

^^^^ dawg, they have u apologizing before you post? doh humble..dem is ass!


nes123 wrote:
Hook wrote:lol @ the "experience guy" who brings "facts" to the table against an oil he has never actually tried (ie. has no experience with said oil) but loves to have the last word.

This place really great inno!

You can be very disappointing at times eh HOOK :?
If you had read what was iterated PROPERLY, you wouldn't have made that remark.. I used both types...but I kind of hoping this wasn't directed at me



HA! I never disappoint, bitch!

Since it apparently fell into many gardens, lemme repeat it for you too.

Hook wrote:
No need to go emo, numbnuts, I wasn't speaking to you.
While your halfwit arse was watering whatever fell in your garden, the person I was referring to already responded.
But it's nice to know you see something wrong with that you're doing tho.

Have a good day sir.

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ek4ever
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Postby ek4ever » December 4th, 2009, 9:52 am

gt4tified....some good background and firsthand info....I myself have noted some of those same findings when trying different types of oils....some of the explanations for example heavy discoloration can be attributable to the increased levels of detergents in the particular oil.....shear stability of oil, resistance to oxidation, range of oil grade, burnoff ----> volatility rating, etc.

You mentioned wear and tear on the oil but I think like many of the other persons posting here it would be nice to have oil analysis details to explain what you mean....can anyone recommend a place to do this in Trinidad?

Also would you be willing to try a heavier grade Red line oil in the Toyota and let us know how it runs? Interesting to know based on your indication that this engine stresses the oil especially w.r.t high temps and Red Line is a grade V oil using a poly-ester base stock

Will look forward to any of your further findings

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Postby TechArt » December 23rd, 2009, 9:17 pm

A little heads up for the Mobil 1 users, Mobil has stopped the 15W50 Extended Performance oil.

This is what you shall get now
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-20
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10W-30

The 15W50 wasn't amsoil but still better than their 5W50 which magically seems to disappear. And as for the topic its like tires for a trini, if you drive slowly n don't run your engine to the limits then 20W50 Castrol GTX is for you. You just have to change that oil 4.5k to 5k if your N/A n your kool, if your running turbo on mineral I am guessing you do it often. I can only talk for a 4cyl N/A manual tranny, I use Mobil 1 in the box and the engine. Its on 129,000miles driven hard everyday, the mobil stands up to the abuse up to 6000miles after that I get concerned and just change it. The oil level drops slightly from full 4 quarts to oil change, engine has no problems what so ever. 5yrs of Mobil 1 from 5W50 to 15W50, I have used from Castrol GTX, Shell Helix, Royal Purple, Quaker state, Chevron, Amsoil & Mobil 1 in the years before that. Out of all those Mobil 1 & Amsoil are my personal favourites, for person whom query quality of oils I will offer my 2cents.

Put castrol GTX 20W50 in your car and run it hard from port of spain to Sando n Back, (this is for manual ppl eh) on the corners engine brake a bit. then try the same with either amsoil 20W50 or Mobil 1 15W50. You will be in for a surprise cuz with those oils when you engine break your car ent gonna slow down as fast as you would think. And BTW AMSOIL will not die :shock: , you will change the oil cuz your scared not because its bad. Change your oil ppl not your engine. 0X


As for the price etc......... I bought my stash of 15W50 in bulk in 2008 n I have enough for 2010. Before that depletes I am gonna look for sum Amsoil or this schaffers oil yesh :mrgreen:

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Postby haydn28 » December 23rd, 2009, 10:03 pm

any one ever use valvolene VR1 oil? im considering using this oil

from what i see , this oil has a very high zinc content for wear protection
and which is for off road use only ....but we r in trinidad sooo...

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Postby Alpha_2nr » December 24th, 2009, 6:47 pm

So at the end of the day, and all the emo-ness,

How does one actually "quantify" whether a certain oil is "better" for their engine versus another oil?

Butt dyno calibrations?
"Ah hear" comments?
"Ah fine dee oil did still look clear when ah did drain it? it real wukking!"
Smell Test?

Or did anyone do a proper Oil analysis (which can be done locally) on their spent oils (of different brands) to determine which produced less wear metal content?



((Crickets chirp))





((Realises there's a better chance of Santa delivering an M3 rather than have a logical answer to this post))

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Postby X_Factor » December 24th, 2009, 7:24 pm

i used the castrol synthetic blend 10w30 and had burn off
top ups adding up to 1/2quart -3/4 quart would be needed during the 5000k's

presently using shell 10w30 synthetic blend, no top up needed till next change

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Hook
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Postby Hook » December 24th, 2009, 8:36 pm

Knight1 wrote:So at the end of the day, and all the emo-ness,

How does one actually "quantify" whether a certain oil is "better" for their engine versus another oil?

Butt dyno calibrations?
"Ah hear" comments?
"Ah fine dee oil did still look clear when ah did drain it? it real wukking!"
Smell Test?

Or did anyone do a proper Oil analysis (which can be done locally) on their spent oils (of different brands) to determine which produced less wear metal content?



((Crickets chirp))





((Realises there's a better chance of Santa delivering an M3 rather than have a logical answer to this post))


The emoness is because every discussion on this site has to turn into a pissing match. For example, if I decided for whatever reason, to post a statement like "all dem wagons heavy and slow", the number of piggies THAT statement will tickle will make even Aveena Lee blush.
*NOTE: Hook has no interest in running anyone.*

Few if any 2nrs are going to do an analysis on their used oil to check anything. In my short time here and my involvement in tech discussions, I can safely say that the vast majority of 2nrs actually drive bone stock vehicles and are not particularly tech savy, so to assume anyone here's actually into research and modification and tuning is a huge undertaking.

Most 2nrs simply want an oil that has all the marketing hype that a good oil should have at a good price. I say "most" because I've seen posts from some that use super expensive race grade oil in their foreign used grocery-getters and swear they're better than the turbo charged weekend warrior that running GTX). It boils down to hype and brand loyalty here basically, and since there are oil comparison charts littered all over the interwebz, it's fairly easy to make an educated decision on which brand and weight you use, but in the end it's all taken on faith, since you'll never actually know what it's doing in your engine.

So, what colour M3 u gonna get? Pass fuh mih nuh?

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Postby belalegosi » December 24th, 2009, 8:52 pm

Hook wrote:Few if any 2nrs are going to do an analysis on their used oil to check anything. In my short time here and my involvement in tech discussions, I can safely say that the vast majority of 2nrs actually drive bone stock vehicles and are not particularly tech savy, so to assume anyone here's actually into research and modification and tuning is a huge undertaking.

Most 2nrs simply want an oil that has all the marketing hype that a good oil should have at a good price. I say "most" because I've seen posts from some that use super expensive race grade oil in their foreign used grocery-getters and swear they're better than the turbo charged weekend warrior that running GTX). It boils down to hype and brand loyalty here basically, and since there are oil comparison charts littered all over the interwebz, it's fairly easy to make an educated decision on which brand and weight you use, but in the end it's all taken on faith, since you'll never actually know what it's doing in your engine.

So, what colour M3 u gonna get? Pass fuh mih nuh?


:2gunfire: :2gunfire: :2gunfire:

soooo true.
Oil analysis?
Pshhhh... ask them to use a ratchet and see what happens :?

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Postby Strugglerzinc » December 24th, 2009, 9:21 pm

Fus time i crack the cover in 2 years and it look like this...gonna keep using what i using...Royal Purple 10W-30 in the grocery getter :mrgreen:

Image

Image

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Damien
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Postby Damien » December 24th, 2009, 10:16 pm

^that could mean that royal purple have good cleaning additives :|

whats the mileage of the vehicle?

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Postby belalegosi » December 24th, 2009, 10:29 pm

Strugglerzinc wrote:Fus time i crack the cover in 2 years and it look like this...gonna keep using what i using...Royal Purple 10W-30 in the grocery getter :mrgreen:

Image

Image



that doesnt say much...

Image

supertech synthetic oil 5w30 and filter .. 260,000 miles
beats on it all year around... even in -30C winters 8-)
and it still holds good compression in all the cylinders :lol:

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Postby equipped2ripp » December 25th, 2009, 12:38 am

walmart oil FTW :lol: :lol:

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Postby belalegosi » December 25th, 2009, 12:43 am

equipped2ripp wrote:walmart oil FTW :lol: :lol:


:oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:

recession :?

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Postby Alpha_2nr » December 25th, 2009, 7:48 am

Most 2nrs simply want an oil that has all the marketing hype that a good oil should have at a good price. I say "most" because I've seen posts from some that use super expensive race grade oil in their foreign used grocery-getters and swear they're better than the turbo charged weekend warrior that running GTX). It boils down to hype and brand loyalty here basically, and since there are oil comparison charts littered all over the interwebz, it's fairly easy to make an educated decision on which brand and weight you use, but in the end it's all taken on faith, since you'll never actually know what it's doing in your engine.

So, what colour M3 u gonna get? Pass fuh mih nuh?



Damn straight.......well said d00d.


As for the M3......it looking like discount city was all out of 1:24 scale versions yesterday. :oops:








:lol:

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Postby sweeks » December 26th, 2009, 1:20 am

Good info to know

Mobil Delvac1 Full Diesel Synthetic 15w40 - $245 gallon at Teach in Couva (by the traffic light)

Toyota OEM filter 90915-30002 (1kz-te)

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Postby Rx » December 26th, 2009, 3:39 pm

Mobil 1 synthetic, 15w50
$75 / litre

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Postby gt4tified » December 27th, 2009, 10:53 pm

X_Factor wrote:i used the castrol synthetic blend 10w30 and had burn off
top ups adding up to 1/2quart -3/4 quart would be needed during the 5000k's

presently using shell 10w30 synthetic blend, no top up needed till next change


Interesting....what engine, what kind of driving was this oil subjected to? I've heard from a lot of fellow 3sgte owners that 0.5 to 1 quart of oil top up is rather normal with these engines.

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Postby azoturbo » December 27th, 2009, 11:01 pm

CASTROL GTX 10W 30( when i broken) AND RED LINE 10W 30
$130 A GALLON 70 per quart

were ever i can get it

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Postby Jonathan » April 10th, 2010, 11:40 am

Jonathan wrote:Castrol GTX 20W-50
$133.00

Auto Village - Diego Martin


UPDATE: Castrol GTX 20W-50 at that location is now increased to $146.00!!

d' phorq... :evil:

Anyone else seeing price increases around?

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Postby azoturbo » April 10th, 2010, 12:30 pm

Jonathan wrote:
Jonathan wrote:Castrol GTX 20W-50
$133.00

Auto Village - Diego Martin


UPDATE: Castrol GTX 20W-50 at that location is now increased to $146.00!!

d' phorq... :evil:

Anyone else seeing price increases around?

yup castrol has risen

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Postby Alpha_2nr » April 10th, 2010, 8:34 pm

^^Yep saw an increase in price as well.

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Postby rottedv » April 11th, 2010, 7:59 am

I'm due for an oil change today but don't know what oil to put...I have an altis 3zz-fe engine doing 28000k...I got to stop measuring the 3 months thing and star measuring the 4000k thing but I will be making alot of highway runs soon and looking to change oil....Currently running NP 20w50 from the roro dealer but I think its time for a change....Any Advice?

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