WTK: Which is better oil

[damieG82]

Alpha_2nr agree with there... I dont know where ppl get all that nonsense from, based on OIL of all things. There is no miracle liquid, be it oil, gas treatments etc, that will give you a discernible difference in performance

GLXXXTACY you have a point. I would admit that I was guilty of oil changes between 10,000 and 15,000 kms, because that's the info I saw in a Mazda service manual. However, I think ppl need to take what is written in those manuals with a pinch of salt, becuz most of these publications are from (and for) locations with better quality fuels (which themselves have many helpful additives that are not found in our gas), and climates much different to ours. More often than not, the manuals you'll find online do not cater to our road conditions and climate.

Only this weekend gone I happened across a Mazda dealership spec maintenance manual for my car, and to my horror it says that cars driven under circumstances (there was a list of 7 situations and at least 4 applied to us locally), the oil change interval is reduced to 3000 miles/ 4800 kms/ or 3 months, as opposed to 9000 miles/ 15000 kms/ or 1 year.

Agreed a synthetic would last longer, but as Alpha rightly said, to pair any of these 'premium' oils with the ubiquitous cheapo brand oil filters makes no sense. At the very least, the filter should be changed at the 5000km/ 3 month interval

All in all, to the average joe running about in his econobox, the great oil debate is stupid. But like all other luxury goods, there'd be people who will buy premium oils just to say they have it. Check that car and one using a regular oil in 10 years, both with consistent routine maintenance, and I highly doubt you'll be able to tell which car used which oil.

[3stagevtec]

I used to use Castrol 20W50 and started getting a timing chain rattle during cold startup every morning. I eventually changed the oil driven tensioners and the noise went away for a short while, but came back..

After that I changed oil and went from the (manufacturer recommended) 20W50 (Castrol) to a 15W40 Royal Purple. Surprisingly, the RP completely stopped ALL the timing chain rattle.. No immediate difference in performance was felt but my engine is running quite well these days..

[~Vēġó~]

very very good discussions....keep them coming!

[GLXXXTACY]

^^^ diff brand, diff applications. so far the castrol neva give me any hiccups but i know there is better out there but it aint worth the extra $ all while having an everyday car. maybe when i get an evo, oil preferences will change.

[SiR8081]

amsoil

[GLXXXTACY]

^^^ ammm who was talkin to u pal! look find yuhself back in d honda forum eh bai. steupz.

castrol gtx 20w-50 synthetic i dus use eh. meano where u get that 25w-60 crap from.

[SiR8081]

^^^ ammm who was talkin to u pal! look find yuhself back in d honda forum eh bai. steupz.

castrol gtx 20w-50 synthetic i dus use eh. meano where u get that 25w-60 crap from.

read carefully, castrol high mileage, the green bottle
and like bp making castrol syntec 20w - 50 just for you i know they only have a 5W-50

and you calling me meano.....you sound like 12. do you even drive?

[Alpha_2nr]

All in all, to the average joe running about in his econobox, the great oil debate is stupid. But like all other luxury goods, there'd be people who will buy premium oils just to say they have it. Check that car and one using a regular oil in 10 years, both with consistent routine maintenance, and I highly doubt you'll be able to tell which car used which oil.

Dude....I couldn't have said it better. It's almost like some folks use an expensive oil just to feel better about the car they drive...as if it has some added performance or is somehow superior because of the racing oil they use.

I drive an econobox/grocerygetter, and I use GTX or Syntec Blend.

<shrug>

[EVA Unit-01]

so RP 10W40 4 it, den?!

[only the best]

ever hear a small economy four cylinder that use to crank on mornings go to bouncing instantly on mornings from just changing to schaeffer's? since 80% of engine wear happens at start up, that is an example of best oil performance.

stay in your chicken coup,

or

check meh when allyuh fed up with crap oil.

703-9647

and to the fella who boppin down sellers in here, understand that:
1. we pay to do this
2. it is healthy for end users since they get to compare views from other end users in one place

[Strugglerzinc]

ever hear a small economy four cylinder that use to crank on mornings go to bouncing instantly on mornings from just changing to schaeffer's? since 80% of engine wear happens at start up, that is an example of best oil performance.

stay in your chicken coup,

Anyone knows what this means?

I'd get better starting by changing my oil?

What's the reasoning behind this?

[EVA Unit-01]

^^^ dunno wot dat man meant, nah... but a thinner oil will flow (and thus protect) better during "cold" start-up, and Maybe give you a smoother tumble i guess... but seriously, Strugglerzinc, stay in yuh chicken coup!


as for the seller status, only the best:
1. u pay 2 ADVERTISE in the CLASSIFIED forums, not fill tech discussions with promos for ur product
2. a seller CANNOT be considered an unbiased end user; if u get people who use ur products 2 come i & post about the benefits of it in their specific applications, then THAT will be "healthy" for people trying 2 decide

[Alpha_2nr]

ever hear a small economy four cylinder that use to crank on mornings go to bouncing instantly on mornings from just changing to schaeffer's? since 80% of engine wear happens at start up, that is an example of best oil performance.

stay in your chicken coup,

Anyone knows what this means?

I'd get better starting by changing my oil?

What's the reasoning behind this?

I'm confused by that as well.

I will say this, I've used everything from RP, Redline, Syntec, Amsoil (Series 2000), GTX, hell....I even used Schaeffer's once back in mid '07 I believe, when Boodram&friends had advertised it here and used to sell it IIRC - way before the current powerseller ever started advertising on 'tuner(assuming it's not the same person).

I honestly found/felt/saw no major differences when using all of them:

- No differences in starting.
- no "OMG d cyar running rel smooth now eh" comments.
- no "OMG I b feelin teh horsepowers now" .
- no OMGIBRUNNINGRACINGOILSOMYCARSUPERCOOL sensations.
- no fanboyism comments about any particular brand of oil ever emerged during that either.

The only thing was that the Amsoil burned off a little while others didn't, and the Castrols (both GTX and Syntec) seemed to darken the fastest - may have something to do with sludge dispersion. Strangely enough, I've never gotten around to using Mobil 1.

Anywho, the long and short of it is that after all that, I just went with the most economical choice at the point in time, with a good oil filter, and the rest is history.

a seller CANNOT be considered an unbiased end user; if u get people who use ur products 2 come i & post about the benefits of it in their specific applications, then THAT will be "healthy" for people trying 2 decide

Well said EVA they should make you a mod.

Anyways lemmih buss outta dis ched an' go an' mind mih chicken and whatnot with mih "grocerygetter".

[Sanctifier]

guys which oil is better red line or royal purple for a lancer cedia?
car boutique says red line is better....

Why doesn't recommend either brand in their Owners' Handbook or Workshop Manual?

Do you expect any vendor (Car Boutique) to say that the competition's product is just as good?...
Who gets PAID () to recommend a particular brand?...It's the same question!

No Oil Co. has ever been able to scientifically prove (API) that their brand is superior to the competitions' equivalent grade.
Once the API Ratings and Grades are the same...then...Oil is Oil...is Oil, padna.

BTW, IMHO you don't need a synthetic oil in a N/A daily driver like a Lancer Cedia.
Stick to the "rating" and "grade" that recommends...but let your wallet dictate which "brand" to buy.

Link--> The Truth: ~ About Oil... and the BULLSH!T about it.

Their $0.02¢

[slow323]

why is there another thread like this in the first place wasn't this beaten to death in the older version

of TUNER

[Alpha_2nr]

Sanctifier

You obviously mind chickens.


Or live in a chicken "coup".










Carry on.

[Sanctifier]

^ ^ ^ ...From petroleum...to autos...to agriculture ...That's one hell of a jump, padna.

BTW my "chicken coup" (and office) is at the end of my signature...
Just make an appointment with my secretary (right foot) at the appropriate time...

[GLXXXTACY]

sactifier, my point bro.
A powerseller/company's main aim is to make PROFIT (business mgmt)! maybe the few aim to please customers but long and short, the owner manual recommends 10w-40/50, 15w-40/50, 20w-40/50. in trinidad, i believe 20w-50 is most suitable. so whatever brand you choose (due to marketing/advertisements/word of mouth), the oil may vary slightly but will do the same work for a 1600cc 4g18 everyday driver engine! (unless u 4g93t or 4g63t)

[EVA Unit-01]

firstly, the OP should have checked the CS Lancer thread in the Mitsu forum. i believe there's the chart from the manual posted, or someone will gladly supply!

secondly, DM recommended Shell Helix Ultra 5w40. the Mitsubishi manual states 5w40 is good up to 50 deg C, and demands API SG (or higher) specifications or ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4 OR A5/B5 specifications. this is recommended for my INVECS III 4G18 1600cc gasoline engine.

[Alpha_2nr]

^ ^ ^ ...From petroleum...to autos...to agriculture ...That's one hell of a jump, padna.

BTW my "chicken coup" (and office) is at the end of my signature...
Just make an appointment with my secretary (right foot) at the appropriate time...

Unkle Sanct.......the chicken coup blurb was in made in reference to an earlier post by a powerseller (scroll up)........and was thrown back as such. And if your review my earlier post, it mirrors yours almost exactly, right/left feet/lower boost in my car not withstanding.






Seriously tho, it's good that someone else said it besides me. I remember posting the same thing in another ched about a full synth not being really that necessary for a non-highlystrung N/A engine as found in the average daily beater, once PROPER OE oilchange intervals and a PROPER OIL FILTER was used.....yet I was flamed for not preaching the word of "XX" brand of oil.


Speaking of which.....ohhhh venum!!! Care to share your thoughts on this topic?

[Sanctifier]

Yup, it's all good, padna...No issues.

[only the best]

ever hear a small economy four cylinder that use to crank on mornings go to bouncing instantly on mornings from just changing to schaeffer's? since 80% of engine wear happens at start up, that is an example of best oil performance.

stay in your chicken coup,

Anyone knows what this means?

I'd get better starting by changing my oil?

What's the reasoning behind this?

dan for the last 3 months or so i have an ad running with a link to schaeffer website so people could educate themselves about the oil. instead of reading what information is available most people opinion on schaeffer's is based on what they know about other oils.

in a nutshell schaeffer products come with a patented moly called Micron Moly. it is a compound that bonds to all exposed metal within your engine-rings, bearings, lifters, whatever.
it is 500,000 psi strong. it is basically indestructible. it prevents metal to metal contact even at start up after most of your oil has drained down to the sump, so need to babble about how anyone need light weight oil for the morning. schaeffer's will prevent any wear of moving parts in the engine under the harshest driving conditions, like idling in stop and go traffic for eons, pelting down the road x to board, in the event of an overheat, or in the event that your oil pressure run low or stop ( sump buss,turbo oil line leak, oil pump failure, etc.)- your engine will still be good when the stock oil light comes on. if you have any engine that you cannot afford to be destroyed from lubrication failure schaeffer's is your insurance.

other consequences of preventing metal to metal contact is a dramatic reduction in friction as well as elimination of any noises in lifters, timing chains, tappets, etc.

by the laws of physics as friction is reduced starting capability, efficiency, acceleration and peak power must increase, engine operating temperature will decrease.

it is not whether your oil full synthetic, blended synthetic, mineral based, ester based...
the protective magic is the Micron Moly.

furthermore, because the oil is still good at 15,000 km it works out cheaper than castrol to use.

no burn off either, so it prevents varnish from building up on parts in the engine. soot and sludge control for excellent engine cleanliness and hence no piston/bore scuffing. excellent anti-foaming capabilities... IT IS THE BEST. EXPRESS YOUR VIEWS ALL YOU WANT, YOU CAN'T CHANGE THAT.

if you want to know who sellin oil purely for business, check who sellin more than one brand. worst yet if they know notting about oil.

when allyuh ready for the best call me @ 703-9647.

[EVA Unit-01]

^^^ see, the problem with ads is that they're usually unconfirmable by the layman. no matter how much Micron Moly they put in the oil, i don't have a Micron Moly concentration reader (or any other tool) to verify the claims they make!

as such, verification is left up to either independent testers (3rd party) or end user testimonies (1st-hand experience), neither of which can be 100% trusted if gotten from the internet (unless detailed information is presented)

as such, people would prefer to hear from local end-users who can give 1st-hand experience for their specific car!

u if ne of ur clients use ur Supreme 9000 in a CS3A Lancer's 4G18 INVECS III engine, tell dem holla @ mih!

[Sanctifier]

^^^ see, the problem...verification is left up to either independent testers (3rd party) or end user testimonies (1st-hand experience), neither of which can be 100% trusted...

IMHO if the testing and reporting capabilities of the American Petroleum Institute (API) is good enough for the world's oil companies, then that should be good enough for me.

Two questions, please...
What does API testing say about Schaeffer oils?...Rating & Grade of premium product?
And is Micron Moly similar to the original Moly Slip?

[EVA Unit-01]

^^^problem with that is that most companies say their products exceeds these standards, so it's not really an exact measure for comparison.

also, oils with similar ratings may perform differently for different engines, so i'd prefer a reference from a similar "end-user" (if available)

[Sanctifier]

...it's not really an exact measure for comparison.
also, oils with similar ratings may perform differently for different engines, so i'd prefer a reference from a similar "end-user" (if available)

...it's not really an exact measure for comparison... It isn't? Who says so?
Why do all the world's oil companies use their services before they label their own products then?

Unfortunately ALL so-called expert "end users" have absolutely NO SCIENTIFIC TEST EQUIPMENT at their disposal.
No 2nr can test the used oil...or the level of engine wear that MUST occur over time (in spite of the advertisments.)
So as far as these "opinions" are concerned, they are (by defination) all equally inconsistent...and therefore unreliable.

I'll stick to API ratings as a yardstick, since AFAIK nothing else is available that is as accurate or consistent.

My $0.02¢

[jockey-shorts]

HAPPI Soyabean Oil with 0% Cholesterol.

[only the best]

www.schaefferoil.com

there you can find all technical data sheets for any product schaeffer makes.

you will find out that their products exceeds API standards and all others applicable including military, industrial.....

[Sanctifier]

^ ^ ^ Okay...but your product...& my $$$. I don't have time to browse yet another product site.
So again...Two questions, please...
1) What does API testing say about Schaeffer oils?...What is the "Rating" & "Grade" of their premium product?

2) Is Micron Moly similar to the original Moly Slip?

BTW I know it's early days yet...but how many outlets in North Trinidad stock your brand so far?
Need to know where to buy it for maintenance...or in an emergency?

[W2J]

www.schaefferoil.com

there you can find all technical data sheets for any product schaeffer makes.

you will find out that their products exceeds API standards and all others applicable including military, industrial.....

it's strange how AMSOIL has not been slapped with libel lawsuit based on there Published results