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Braded steel brake lines

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DIESELTRINI
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Postby DIESELTRINI » March 23rd, 2005, 4:03 pm

Spyrogyra wrote:Can you change the lines yourself if you have some mechanical skill


Yes, you will just need to bleed the brakes afterwards. Don't try to do it if you don't have line-wrenches, you will only ruin the line nuts using an open-end. Don't say I didn't warn you.

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Postby Spyrogyra » March 23rd, 2005, 5:30 pm

Jimbo wrote:Hmm thats strange, my Brake fluid reservoir says to use DOT 4...


it's DOT4

Yes, you will just need to bleed the brakes afterwards. Don't try to do it if you don't have line-wrenches, you will only ruin the line nuts using an open-end. Don't say I didn't warn you.


I hear ya

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Postby DIESELTRINI » March 23rd, 2005, 6:51 pm

You can also use DOT 5.1 which is fully synthetic and none-silicone.... aka the shiznit.

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Postby Duane 3NE 2NR » March 24th, 2005, 12:39 am

I was thinking about switching to SS braided lines

someone told me that there is a company here in T&T called Hi-Tech - I think that is the name - that take your rubber lines and refit the fittings on SS braided lines for much cheaper than buying performance branded parts. They are supposed to be located in POS - anyone have details oor experience with this?

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Postby mrboxman » March 24th, 2005, 1:20 am

read my post before i did them last week very good service cool fellas
$624.00 may vary a lil for the 4 depends on the lengths

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Postby TurboDrive » March 24th, 2005, 9:35 pm

Is the teflon braided lines better than the ss braided lines or just as good. Iwant to know because I am thinking of having them done.

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Postby DIESELTRINI » March 24th, 2005, 9:49 pm

THe actual line is teflon, and it is covered by a protective stainless steel braid.

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Postby flatline » March 24th, 2005, 10:37 pm

yes, the braided SS lines are done over teflon/hydraulic lines, so as to prevent expansion of the lines during braking, thus giving your pedal a less "mushy" braking feeling. Some SS lines like the Magnum brand have another outer layer of teflon to prtect the steel

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Postby TurboDrive » March 24th, 2005, 11:10 pm

Inshan wrote:THe actual line is teflon, and it is covered by a protective stainless steel braid.


Thanks for clearing that up for me. :P

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Postby DIESELTRINI » March 25th, 2005, 3:41 am

Yeah Flatline, I have also noticed that outer layer on some of them. Stoptech lines have it, pretty impressive looking stuff.

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Postby ~Vēġó~ » July 21st, 2005, 9:41 am

^bump^ a good thread!!! 8)

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Postby solo » July 21st, 2005, 11:51 am

For the east men, Hi Tech has an office on omera rd and I think there's one in Mayaro too (Vega) and yes they do a great job with the lines. I also bought a lenght of internally steel braided radiator hose from them, little costly but it's a radiator hose fuh life.

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~Vēġó~
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Postby ~Vēġó~ » July 21st, 2005, 3:10 pm

Hi Tech has an office on omera rd and I think there's one in Mayaro too (Vega)


nice man solo, much thanks.........I'll see to find whey.......unless yuh wah hit we a tel# fuh the Mayaro branch 8)

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solo
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Postby solo » July 21st, 2005, 3:39 pm

^^^^^^ yuh know ah will rather come down Rio with meh styro cooler full and we could take ah drive there buh say wha....
Galeota # is 630-2278

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~Vēġó~
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Postby ~Vēġó~ » July 21st, 2005, 9:40 pm

^^^now dat is a BESS plan!!!! call meh 8)

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Postby bleedingfreak » July 25th, 2005, 8:12 am

Nice Thread Fellas... :D

Thanks alot...

It have a Hi-Tech in Chaguaramas too! I going check them in a bit :)

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Postby G20 » July 28th, 2005, 9:46 am

ok...Hopes this makes it easier for everyone...

The name of the company is Hi Tech Fluid Power Limited...

2 Flament street..Port of Spain..tel# 624-7959

Mariner's Haven Compound, 1st Ave South..Chaguaramas..tel# 634-1991

Calmapas Village, Galeota Point..tel# 630-2278

13 Alice Street..La Romain..tel# 652-5802 / 5791

33 O'meara Road...Arima..tel# 667-6065 / 2612

8)

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live67
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Postby live67 » July 30th, 2009, 7:15 am

I think DOT5 can corrode your normal brake lines, not so?

You have to stick with DOT4 as manufacturer recommended.

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Postby DIESELTRINI » July 30th, 2009, 8:32 pm

DOT5 is silicone-based and not compatible with regular DOT3, 4 and 5.1 systems.

DOT 4 is more than you will ever need.

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Postby MG Man » July 30th, 2009, 11:14 pm

there are conflicting reviews on silicone
one thing for sure, you can't just bleed your conventional fluid out and bleed in silicone.......it can only be introduced into a completely clean / rebuilt / dry system :!:

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Postby ribs » August 30th, 2009, 10:27 pm

i want 4 lines 4 a skyline call me on 366-7372

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Re: Braded steel brake lines

Postby Tired Accord » August 31st, 2009, 1:43 am

Good to know about Hi-Tech Fluid doing this upgrade locally. Thanks to G20 for digging out the numbers for us.

cdx2k1 wrote:Hi all.Would using braded steel brake lines increase braking performance?If so,then, by how much?


^^^Back to the original question, I recently changed my brake lines (P11) to TechnaFit SS lines (these are available in the US for US$110-115). You only feel the difference when you brake hard (obviously). It feels alot firmer, and it does not feel like the pedal keeps wanting to go down further, and soft-ish. I wanted to do a before-and-after stopping distance braking test - But I just said "F*&k it" and went ahead and changed them out. If your car is >7 yrs old, this is definitely a good upgrade for older brake lines.

Currently using Nissan pads. May consider upgrading to Hawk / EBC / Axxis next time I am changing pads. Don't know who has what available for P11 though. :roll: :roll:

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Postby Morpheus23 » August 31st, 2009, 2:04 am

Good read and info

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Postby cacasplat3 » August 31st, 2009, 12:33 pm

live67 wrote:I think DOT5 can corrode your normal brake lines, not so?

You have to stick with DOT4 as manufacturer recommended.

where the DOT3 and DOT4 absorb some water in the system, the DOT5 does not absorb water, which means the water that would normally be absorbed in DOT3 or DOT 4 system can cause corrosion in the DOT5 system........the fluid itself does not corrode the lines.........

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Postby red bwoy » August 31st, 2009, 7:20 pm

cacasplat3 wrote:
live67 wrote:I think DOT5 can corrode your normal brake lines, not so?

You have to stick with DOT4 as manufacturer recommended.

where the DOT3 and DOT4 absorb some water in the system, the DOT5 does not absorb water, which means the water that would normally be absorbed in DOT3 or DOT 4 system can cause corrosion in the DOT5 system........the fluid itself does not corrode the lines.........

quite correct but the issue with the dot 5 or silicone based fluids is with the effect the silicone has on the rubber seals in the system it causes the seals to soften and fail over time

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Postby TrinbagoMan » February 3rd, 2010, 10:28 am

Good thread.

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Postby CD4Accord » February 4th, 2010, 1:08 am

Paid $100 US for the 4 line Goodridge G-Stop kit for the accord..

While doing this upgrade switched rotors to Brembo Sport Slotted, Hawk HPS pads and ATE Super Blue DOT 4 Racing..

All combined, the difference is significant but lines rank last on my priority list compared to all of the above..

Personally, as good as their work is, I wouldnt trust a local to manufacture lines for me.. Thats putting my life directly into the hands of someone who if they were fluid engineers, wouldnt be working in auto parts...
Personally, buy a reputable brand, your life may depend on it..

Re: Brake Fluid.. DOT 4 racing is my choice as the boiling points are higher than even DOT 5.1 but it is less compressible... Costs more of course but you can go 2 to 3 yrs without a flush without too much trouble..

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Postby X_Factor » February 4th, 2010, 10:04 pm

^ not all of them are eh, the boiling points vary between brands

castrol LMA is really good and not all that expensive

Wagner dot 4 is crap...

and remember racing brake fluid isnt to be used on normal vehicles

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Postby CD4Accord » February 5th, 2010, 2:13 am

I have to ask, why not use racing fluid on a normal vehicle? It is DOT4 spec, has higher boiling points, less compressibility (which is good) and best of all requires flushing less often...
What would you define as normal vehicles? Won't you say that at least half the vehicles that race also exist as "normal" vehicles? Thats like saying, dont use synthetic oil on a "normal" engine......
The only precaution with racing brake fluid I know is that some brands you have to be sure to flush the entire system first.. And Brembo LCF600 you shouldn't use with a brake system containing Magnesium parts, other than that....?!?!

RE: Castrol GT LMA, nice fluid in a sort of "normal" way.. I use it in the Pajero, but the only advantage it would offer over your standard cheapo yellow lockheed is that it has higher boiling points and would last longer.. Past that, its no less compressible as its just "normal" fluid.. In that sense it won't actually increase performance of your braking system, just give you more time before you boil it .. Mind you, I have boiled GT LMA before when I used it on the accord.. (Dry Boiling Point - 446°F
Wet Boiling Point - 329°F)
Compared to ATE super blue racing which I now use which is dry boiling point of 536F and a wet boiling point of 396F, big upgrade on the Castrol..
Don't even talk for the Motul RBF600 I use on the Volvo (dry boiling point of 593F and a wet boiling point of 420F.)

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Postby X_Factor » February 5th, 2010, 7:11 am

well, my research and readings at that time led me to believe that the "racing" fluids even though they have higher boiling points they were designed to be used in racing applications which usually has fresh fluid put into the system very often compared to a passenger type vehicle.

i'll try to find the links and post them..

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