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skylinechild wrote:its not a "conversion " per say the proper way ideally is a little laborious but worth it.
you need to vent the R12 gas safely -
flush the entire system to get rid of any acids that may have been formed
change the high and low pressure line fittings to the R134a standard fittings - the high and low pressure fittings i referring to are the ones you connect your gauges to
replace your drier bottle -
you may elect to change the condenser for a more efficient type as the R134a gas and the R12 gas absorb heat abit differently.
replace any seals you may need to - draw a vacuum on the entire system for about an hr or so.
once you able to hold pressure add PAG oil ( compressor oil) dye of your choice and your R134a gas.
you needed to change the fittings as the R12 gas gauges are different than those of the r134a gauges.
yes there are those who will argue - " 120 PSI is 120 PSI on any gauge you use"
....and i agree with them however 120 psi reading on a R12 gauge set may read as "over charged" as compared to a R134 gauge set and such
not taking environment factors into consideration as yet - when charging up a R134a system
so safest thing get the correct fittings...
I'd say just do over the entire system because there isnt anywhere that might do a flush here in Trinidad. cost to do it might be more than replacing the entire system.
Also take into consideration line sizes may differ.
It's POE oil you are using.
120 PSI is 120PSI, does not matter the gauge. People who trying a thing need gauges that are "refrigerant specific", true techs can read a pressure temp chart so they can use any gauge to do anything.
Fact R134A pressures can climb as far as 300 PSI on the discharge side depending on conditions.
You vacuume with a micron gauge, not for an hour or so. Pumps differ in CFM rating, a 10cfm pump will do the same job a 3 cfm will in about 1/3 the time. A micron gauge gives you a true reading of when the system is perfectly dry inside and will tell you if there are leaks if the system wasn't pressure tested with nitrogen.
It will be wise to put the oil prior to vacuuming btw.
Dye is not a necissity.
Environmental factors must always be taken into consideration and let them hook up unto the discharge side too because its something men dont like to do or know what it is for. There is no specific pressure to charge to, you have to take environmental factors into consideration or you are doing it wrong.
Sounds like you been conversing with the mango tree auto ac club.
nervewrecker wrote:You need to find out what a micron gauge is and then understand what I saying. I have a 10 cfm vaccume pump, average joe has a 3 cfm. I do not need to vaccume anywhere as long as the guy with the 3 cfm. My gauge has a built-in micron gauge. Auto ac is expensive, a few jobs can buy one of that easy.
When you pressure test, you pressure test within operating pressures or what the system rated for. How can nitrogen blow out seals if its withing operating pressures? Then the seals will blow out when the system starts working....no?
Nitrogen is a non reactive gas, safe to introduce into the system. Its not wise to let air into those worst yet pressure test with it. But not everything I intend to spoon feed google techs that reading here.
I pass right by you today.
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