venum wrote:what bushings you talking bout? cradle arm? sway bar bushings? shock mount?
Polyurethane bushings... sway bar first... then others like steering-rack bushings, engine mounts, rear suspension etc.
venum wrote:what I really want is an option to minimize body roll for dex and over\under steer during my hard corners
Some basic handling guidelines below... Might help?
PROBLEM AND CURE SHEET:
~Understeer on entry to a bend - Increase the 'rebound rate' of rear shocks.
Decrease the 'bump rate' of front shocks. Increase the rear brake bias or just brake earlier!
~Oversteer on entry to a bend - Decrease the 'rebound rate' of rear shocks.
Increase the 'bump rate' of front shocks. Decrease the rear brake bias, or brake later!
~Mid-bend Understeer (constant 'wash-out') - Stiffen rear spring and/or anti-roll bar.
Soften the front springs and/or anti-roll bar.
~Mid-bend Oversteer (constant 'tightening' without driver input) - Stiffen front spring and/or anti-roll bar. Soften the rear springs and/or anti-roll bar.
~Exit Understeer - Increase rebound of front shocks. Decrease bump of rear shocks.
Stiffen rear springs/anti-roll bar. Soften front springs/anti-roll bar.
~Exit Oversteer - Decrease rebound of front shocks. Increase bump of rear shocks.
Soften rear springs/anti-roll bar. Stiffen front springs/anti-roll bar.
~Car is slow to respond to driver's input - Stiffen the car by (in this order) springs,
then anti-rollbars, then shocks. Increase tyre pressure and
check heat spread (with tyre pyrometer.) (Competition use only.)
~Car hops over the bump - reverse of the above. venum wrote:...to mimimize the tyre side-wall flex i would have to go 15" rims with a 50 profile tyre cuz i don't think I ever saw 205\50\14 tyres...
or use some 195\50\14's - if I can find...
I do not want to go 16's though, although Rudman's ride on 205\45\16 felt no different than my 205\60\14 - i expect less side-wall flex there
Think twice about increasing wheel diameter for 'dex. It will reduce acceleration... not what you really want.
Hint: If you sacrifice acceleration, there should be other advantages... Keyword: Brembos! 
Maybe try a wider 14" diameter rim of the correct offset that allows you to fit a wider tyre on a smaller diameter rim. Also
with 14" rims on a CK Lancer, think about 1" wider rims in the front with same tyre sizes both front and rear.
See "BozzSpeed Evo 6" in the 
MadMen Forum. http://www.zorce.com/zforums/viewtopic.php?t=253It will reduce understeer and give more "flick-ability" in a corner IMHO.
Yup costs more... but works better.
Hint: Read the current 'regs' for 'dex... Almost anything goes!
You can run Evo rims and Brembos on 17x7.5" rims & 205/45x17" tyres if you are willing to give up some acceleration. BTW don't use "40" series... the ride is terrible and they rupture quickly! Been there... Done that! 
venum wrote:I indicated sway bars cuz it would be a bolt on upgrade, without affectinfg ride quality a lot
what do you expect with top mount front sway bars and rear under mount sway bar, also optional rear top mount sway bar?
Not sure what you mean by
"top mount front sway bars and rear under mount sway bar, also optional rear top mount sway bar"Sway bars... stabilizer bars... anti-roll bars... are all the same thing.
A high-tensile steel bar specially shaped for specific cars.
It connects two opposite suspension arms (either top or bottom, not both at the same time) to limit suspension movement and transfer force from the inner wheel to the outer wheel. The thicker the bar, the greater the force transferred to the outer wheel... the less the roll.
A stabilizer bar tries to keep the car's body flat by moving force from one side of the body to another. To picture how a stabilizer bar works, imagine a metal rod that is an inch or two (2 to 5 cm) in diameter. If your front tires are 5 feet (1.6 meters) apart, make the rod about 4 feet long. Attach the rod to the frame of the car in front of the front tires, but attach it with bushings in such a way that it can rotate. Now attach arms from the rod to the front suspension member on both sides.
When you go into a turn now, the front suspension member of the outside of the turn gets pushed upward. The arm of the sway bar gets pushed upward, and this applies torsion to the rod. The torsion them moves the arm at the other end of the rod, and this causes the suspension on the other side of the car to compress as well. The car's body tends to stay flat in the turn... http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question432.htmvenum wrote:bling and rice...
By "bling" I meant strut bars. They
do work by adding chassis stiffness but it's one of the last things needed, not the first. Unfortunately 2nrs use them for style instead of chassis tuning.
Hint: For stiffer chassis see "Roll Cage" article in MadMen Forum on Zorce.com. Keyword: "Foamseal"
Sooo... for CK Lancer:
1. Whiteline for your model year. Buy
everything available.
2. Brembos (front at least) with Evo master cylinder.
3. Evo 5-stud rims - 7.5 x 17" (need 17" with Brembos anyhow)
4. Tyres - 205/45 x 17" (may have to roll fenders for 215/45 x 17")
5. Lower rear tyre pressure as rims are same size front and rear
(or use 195/45x17" rear tyre?)
My $0.02c
:Whew: That was long Humm... I think I'll post a handling article on Zorce soon.
Alignment Settings here...
