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Bluebird Club

Sunny to Skyline - SR20, CA18, RB20-26, VG30 etc.

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skylinechild
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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby skylinechild » October 14th, 2017, 2:56 pm

Back2Studio wrote:I wish I was like Skylinechild and have an epic bearded chin to stroke while reading the previous comments.... Kicks pebble in disappointment*


all da mamaguy eah necessary inno dan.. :lol: :lol:
yuh still goin to get the autech grill wen the car sold..... :lol: :lol:

no to bearded chin.... i find a razor... how long it stay sharp is another story....i goin to rock it like Rb photo nex week or so......if u hav a bearded chin yuh S.O will deal wit yuh....

i jus happen to be on tuner an say lemme browse thru..lo and behold meh U14 ignite ah man loins and peek he interests....

yuh know yuh doin something right wen a man appreciate yuh hard work and wanna copy the look.... 8-) 8-)

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby Back2Studio » October 14th, 2017, 3:59 pm

One day I will reach that level.... Sigh. Looks off into the horizon fortuitously*...

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skylinechild
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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby skylinechild » October 14th, 2017, 11:05 pm

Back2Studio wrote:One day I will reach that level.... Sigh. Looks off into the horizon fortuitously*...


:lol: :lol: :lol: you soooo full ah sheit eah up to here *(indicates measurement up to your head)
....if yuh look at yuh eye it brong brong...

mw eah kno wha u talkin bout...is me who hadda aspire to reach ur level....bess brakes ...bess suspension..bess interior....bess lights....bess stone shield... :lol: :lol:

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby Back2Studio » October 15th, 2017, 6:57 am

I am but a mere pleb in a vast ocean of petrol heads and great race car drivers....... Snickers*

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skylinechild
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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby skylinechild » October 16th, 2017, 3:57 pm

Back2Studio wrote:I am but a mere pleb in a vast ocean of petrol heads and great race car drivers....... Snickers*

:lol: :lol:

as promised SSSavage this is a feature list of stuff you can do to make it more reliable as a daily driver.

keep in mind reliability is kinda expensive and you better off takin front before front take you.

so i'm going to divide it into different sections. so you can choose what you wanna do first

1. ENGINE
regular oil changes with the correct viscosity of oil remember is a f used engine yuh hav so try not to run too thin of oil 10W40 is good enough and if yuh engine is ole and makin noise try 20W 50 different oils hav different additive packages in it so some oils keep the engine clean while others cause sludge (* cough castrol * cough)
some oil recondition the internal seals and try to stop leaks so brand of oil is up to u.

replace ALL belts - theres only 3 - power steering , ac and alternator and main belt

check tensioner - replace if necessary - yes you CAN replace the bearing in the tensioner itself if the bearing is bad - once the tensioner itself is good.

replace worn cracked hoses and hose clips. visually inspect and replace.

upgrade radiator to an all aluminum 3 core rad and zerex asian coolant
replace coolant every two yrs or 50,000kms. whichever comes first.

check and replace rad hose accordingly and replace thermostat with the OEM unit and OEM rad cover.

water pump - i try to go for OEM here but i guess once you get something that works it'll do fine.

power steering lines if you have leak just go down to Trinidad hose and get a new line made and done. full stainless steel with same OD and ID will do nicely - expensive AF but its lifetime. dont waste time buying a f used line for $450.

spark plugs - NGK iridium seems to be the weapon of choice -BKR5EIX

spark plug wires - i believe NGK are the OEM unit for nissans of this type. buy new ones.
if you want to buy f used pay close attention to the quality.
there should be no breaks cuts or nicks in the insulation - rubber should be soft and pliable
the lead wire should have less than or equal to .1 ohm (THATS POINT ONE OHM OR ONE TENTH OF AN OHM)
of resistance - multi meter use here - and wire should be bight and shiny copper on BOTH ends.

distributor - replace BOTH seals on the distributor ( internal and external) with OEM new seals dont buy generic they dont last long.

set the Idle properly - i think the idle is 750rpm without load << SUBJECT TO CORRECTION

injector seals - you can replace it theyre relatively cheap - paid like $300 for a set for my car

rocker cover / tappit cover - if youre leaking oil here changes are the bolts just need a slight tighten down. mine was leaking badly and they were all slack a Phillips screwdriver and 2 mins and hand tighten stopped the leak.
SR -you'll need a socket and ratchet to tighten those bolts dont over tighten otherwise you'l strip it.
still leaking but the rocker cover gasket. stay away from gasket maker.


2 TRANSMISSION
use good quality transmission oil. any transmission oil that exceeds the nissanmatic D J&K spec will work.

NOTE CVT trans you need to use the nissan CVT oil - NS2 or above will work.

EXTREMELY IMPORTANT >>>> add in an external oil cooler quality units like B&M or others - try to stay away from the generic ones or f used bamboo units out of other cars - some of them barely dissipate enough heat and others just have poor air flow.

if you have a stock cooler with CVT transmission you should change that cooler - reason is the car designed to work in japan where has a lower ambient temp than our hot tropical climate. so the same cooler works well in a colder climate but in our tropical area here....it cant cool effectively.

nothing kills CVT transmissions faster than excessive heat.



3. SUSPENSION
bolt on a front upper strut tower bar OEM or aftermarket - stay away from the generic ones - they made of out cheap aluminum and easily flex

bolt on front lower sway bar with oem end links - use poly bushing spacers energy suspension again

cradle and poly bushing - if youre going that route do ALL the bushings in poly bushings and remember you cud never have enough grease. use the supplied grease dont mix and match bushings.
energy suspension is good stuff

remember the strut tower bar and sway bar is key it ties all components together so adding in poly bushing brings without adding in the strut tower bar eah makin sense and vice vera

ball joint - 555 is ok.

if you cud afford new cradles then awesome.

TECH TIP >>> after installing the bushing just hand tighten everything set the car on level ground and then run down everything with your impact gun. reason is when you hand tighten and put the car on the level ground the bushing sets itself where it needs to be in relation to car weight.tighten it down to set it in place.

shocks - since you're going for daily driver you wont want coil overs or lowering spring
normal shock is KYB - works well.
our shock mount is actually rebuild able - both front and back.
theres NO bearing in our shock mount.

4.BRAKES
if you have drum brakes consider going up to rear wheel disc brakes..
if you're happy with the rear drum brakes then keep it.

replace ALL rubber flex hoses with stainless steel lines
Trinidad hose makes them remove your old lines carry it in .takes less than 15 mins to make it
pedal feel will be awesome and responsive

replace all brake fluid once a year - regardless if its good or not
brake fluid is hygroscopic - which means it absorbs water from the air.
brake fluid gets contaminated and loose viscosity and the ability to work will be compromised.
air and hydraulics dont play nice and will cause master cylinder failure.
simply put - replace it once a yr.

master cylinder.
if bad yes you can rebuild - OEM seals from japan if u can afford it.
if u want to change out the master cylinder for a new one by all means.
the OE size is either 5/8 or 7/8
if you wanna play hero 15/16 from the skyline cud work too.

brake booster - never had to replace mines so i cant say

brake calipers front
you can upgrade to the 11 inch rotor from the TEV primera and caliper- the caliper has two pistons in it if i remember correctly.

you cud also upgrade the front to use R32 rotor and caliper - this is a 4 piston caliper
to be honest the stainless steel brake hose is the most you'll ever have / need to do.

5.DRIVETRAIN
axles - you can buy f used axles but if you just need a CV joint check faiz in marabella he should hav replacements. glo is the brand of choice- works well dont forget new boots and grease.

axle seals - new OEM


anything else i missed out i'll add in later on.

feel free to comment / ask questions - agree / disagree with what was said....

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby Back2Studio » October 16th, 2017, 4:31 pm

TLDNR....

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby SSSavage » October 16th, 2017, 4:32 pm

Back2Studio wrote:TLDNR....

Lol!

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby Back2Studio » October 16th, 2017, 4:36 pm

In all seriousness though.... Some good advice there. If u want advice on autocrossing these cars let me know. Mar.... I mean..... Skylinechild.... basically has covered all bases.

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby SSSavage » October 16th, 2017, 4:37 pm

Seriously though. Thanks for the information.
Don't worry I'm not a complete novice I know when to change oil lol.
The car has new shocks in it already. We put them on then lest just say the car got abandoned afterwards with brand new shocks.
The replacement engine is in very good condition. So is the transmission. And all the belts and hoses are in tip top condition.
Already put new axles in it so that's good as well.

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby SSSavage » October 16th, 2017, 4:41 pm

It's not a cvt so I don't need to worry about that.
The 17 inch wheels however are a problem. They tend to rub against the wheel arch so I'll either have to get smaller wheels or mess around with the steering rack spacers (if this car has them I dont know) maybe wheel hub spacer might work? Or are they unsafe?

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Mercenary
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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby Mercenary » October 16th, 2017, 4:52 pm

Skyline man i agree 100% on them coil over crap. Sadly thats one of the first ting men does wana do...for a crappy ride.

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby skylinechild » October 16th, 2017, 11:53 pm

SSSavage wrote:Seriously though. Thanks for the information.
Don't worry I'm not a complete novice I know when to change oil lol.
The car has new shocks in it already. We put them on then lest just say the car got abandoned afterwards with brand new shocks.
The replacement engine is in very good condition. So is the transmission. And all the belts and hoses are in tip top condition.
Already put new axles in it so that's good as well.

It's not a cvt so I don't need to worry about that.
The 17 inch wheels however are a problem. They tend to rub against the wheel arch so I'll either have to get smaller wheels or mess around with the steering rack spacers (if this car has them I dont know) maybe wheel hub spacer might work? Or are they unsafe


if you had new shocks in it and it got "abandoned"
dont drive the car jus so - the internal shock seals will get brittle and hard - depending on how long the car was left standing.
id advise you to remove the shock from the car- visually inspect - apply liberal shock oil and move the rod manually to get the shock oil lubricate the internals - reinspect and then reinstall.

17 inch is overkill to me....but i think once you get the correct offset rims it shouldn't touch the fender shield.
try to go for rims that are normal width - and yes you can use wheel hub spacers to get around that problem. :lol:

then based on what you said above - my advice to you for upgrades at this time

1 upper front strut tower bar & front lower sway bar
2. stainless steel brake hoses.
3. 3 core radiator and the coolant
4. external transmission oil cooler.
5. replace brake fluid accordingly.



Mercenary wrote:Skyline man i agree 100% on them coil over crap. Sadly thats one of the first ting men does wana do...for a crappy ride.


cant bash coil overs - i tend to disagree with you here. the problem is the avg trini have a "monkey see monkey do" attitude without fully knowing what is involved.

coil overs are designed for the car in question - fully universal types work like garbage. just cause it "bolts up and wukkin"doesnt mean it designed for the car.

most trini ppl like to buy cheap and cheap doesnt equate better. try to stick with reputable brands the no name chinese brands are junk.

reputable brands command the high prices and sadly most trini ppl cyah afford - reputable brands - K sport Tein megan racing Ohlins ( if you cud find it ) B&C racing

theres other things to consider like spring rates and shock absorber and such.

also coil overs need to be properly installed and corner balanced
remember coil overs allow you to set the ride height independently of the ride feel.
so in other words you cud have it at the OEM height but have the car ride as hard or soft as you want.

most ppl do not know how to set the hardness or softness of the shock absorber nor the ride height properly.

heck most trini mechs do not even know what the hell is copper anti sieze compound nor the purpose of the shock boot nor how to secure it. nor when to apply shock oil nor how to apply it.

on my U14 i have my stuff setup how i like it
i did EXTENSIVE research - ask back2studio - he will tell yuh.... cross referencing part numbers countless google searches and product brand searches

i did the necessary research and got the facts to remove all guess work when it was time to install.

the result is my car rides really nice i get the aggressive look and sporty stance and best part is - i DO NOT TOUCH ANYWHERE not even when going over humps.


as back2 studio said if you wanna autocross the car do racing then he cud help you there.

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby skylinechild » October 17th, 2017, 9:31 am

Back2Studio wrote:TLDNR....


doh say da.. you KNOW better so u dont need to read

Back2Studio wrote:In all seriousness though.... Some good advice there. If u want advice on autocrossing these cars let me know. Mar.... I mean..... Skylinechild.... basically has covered all bases.



how dare you try to call me by my real name mr ethan hunt. :x :x

jus now u go want every body to kno meh full name on tuner....mariposa esposito furnandez....

allyuh men brutal oui....

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby Back2Studio » October 18th, 2017, 10:17 am

Happy Divali guys.

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby SSSavage » October 18th, 2017, 11:28 am

Happy diwali!

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby skylinechild » October 20th, 2017, 12:52 pm

^^^^^^ how goes your engine Swap on the u14 bruh

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby Back2Studio » October 21st, 2017, 8:49 am

skylinechild wrote:^^^^^^ how goes your engine Swap on the u14 bruh

Yehh...ched update time. Dunno if things lock off because of the weather though.

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby skylinechild » October 21st, 2017, 8:58 am

Back2Studio wrote:
skylinechild wrote:^^^^^^ how goes your engine Swap on the u14 bruh

Yehh...ched update time. Dunno if things lock off because of the weather though.


i jus here ..work las nite tryin not to sleep now..killin time on tuna...

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby Back2Studio » October 21st, 2017, 9:15 am

Oho. Right side axle have to change. Inner and outer. Car driving real dead too...sigh. #depressed.

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby skylinechild » October 21st, 2017, 2:31 pm

Back2Studio wrote:Oho. Right side axle have to change. Inner and outer. Car driving real dead too...sigh. #depressed.


the 4wd axle different from the 2WD version iirc. to be honest if u not gettin the joints locally to swap out you have to buy the entire axle from japan.

buyin f used may be an option to look at if u in need of the joint ASAP. but consider a new RHS axle.

you may need to readjust the height the car is at . if the car is too low the inner and outer CV may be operating at some jaunty angle which may have caused the joints to wear out prematurely.

why car drivin dead...need ah tune up the mech in debe too busy oar??
oar u hadda take ur time an drive for fear of the joint wringing and fallin out ??

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby Back2Studio » October 21st, 2017, 2:33 pm

skylinechild wrote:
Back2Studio wrote:Oho. Right side axle have to change. Inner and outer. Car driving real dead too...sigh. #depressed.


the 4wd axle different from the 2WD version iirc. to be honest if u not gettin the joints locally to swap out you have to buy the entire axle from japan.

buyin f used may be an option to look at if u in need of the joint ASAP. but consider a new RHS axle.

you may need to readjust the height the car is at . if the car is too low the inner and outer CV may be operating at some jaunty angle which may have caused the joints to wear out prematurely.

why car drivin dead...need ah tune up the mech in debe too busy oar??
oar u hadda take ur time an drive for fear of the joint wringing and fallin out ??

...long story short ....I eh ha no money.

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby skylinechild » October 21st, 2017, 2:42 pm

Back2Studio wrote:...long story short ....I eh ha no money.


the entire axle complete with both joints is only $1088 USD inno..... :lol: :lol:

what u doin with ur paycheck so...??? :lol: :lol:

but seriously try an see if u cud get the joint new by faiz or something and jus replace it.

i seein a part number for the joint but it not showin me the 4WD RHS axle. it only showin me the 2WD RHS axle.

(so it is possible to get both joints and replace it.)

it is however showin me the 4WD LHS axle and the 2WD LHS axle and showin the differences..

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby Back2Studio » October 21st, 2017, 2:43 pm

23 spline

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skylinechild
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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby skylinechild » October 21st, 2017, 2:55 pm

Back2Studio wrote:23 spline


dat not helpin dan...i cant count splines on a 2 dimensional drawing which leaves out most fine detail.
plus the drawing is angled away from the viewer and its poorly drawn .

Image

its only there to show you a graphical representation of the part.


in contrast the LHS 4WD ATTESA axle
Image



anything more you need the service manual for dat.
this is the parts manual.
Last edited by skylinechild on October 21st, 2017, 3:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby Back2Studio » October 21st, 2017, 2:56 pm

I have a spare. Gonna rebuild it.

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby skylinechild » October 21st, 2017, 3:03 pm

Back2Studio wrote:I have a spare. Gonna rebuild it.


so you pullin stones then.... :lol: :lol: all u hadda do is check faiz for the joint. once he have it yuh debe mech go handle u up rel rel quick.

i find meh letter "Q" on the keyboard stickin.....i too lazy tuh fix it yes... :lol:

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby Ted_v2 » October 24th, 2017, 7:27 am

Swap in a turbo on the DE. That's a good option.

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby skylinechild » October 24th, 2017, 7:36 am

Ted_v2 wrote:Swap in a turbo on the DE. That's a good option.


good option for who ..?back2studio or savage......or me..???

back to studio has rel plans for that car and DE turbo may not be enuf power for his liking.
savage just wants a daily driver for now

my laptop has turbo boost on it.. doh need a DE turbo .... :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby skylinechild » October 24th, 2017, 9:51 am

Back2Studio wrote:I have a spare. Gonna rebuild it.


OMFG... :shock: :shock: you sold the upper strut tower bar from the wing road.... how could you ..... :cry:

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Re: Bluebird Club

Postby Ted_v2 » October 24th, 2017, 11:36 am

Savage.

I know yuh ent want all that speed

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