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ok...so you want to make yuh VRG a "sports up" VR4.....i didnt do the conversion as i purchased an original VR4...but.....if you are doing or planning on doing the conversion, please note the folowing:
Gas tank. Make sure you get a VR4 gas tank as part of the deal. the VRG gas tank is not designed to allow for the driveshaft to pass thru to the rear diff.
Rear Suspension. Make sure you dont just get the shock setup, but the entire rear suspension...it'll cost you more, but if you dont, you'll end up paying a pound and a crown in machine work to get the rear setup properly.
Harness. Make sure they DO NOT cut the harness from behind the firewall. Depending on what kind of front cut you got, it will have AYC which would mean swapping out the intrument panel. The electricals for the panels are different for the VR4.
If you are really lucky to get a Manual front cut, Please take EVEYTHING. The manual conversion from Tiptronic is a lil technical and if you missing any part of the gear box linkage, you in for a ride.
I would suggest using the sub frame from the VR4 fonrt cut as (you will discover) the engine mounting points differ. instead of having new engine mounts built, just have the machinst drop out the VRG sub frame and isntall the VR4.
The Transfer case. Inspect it for any leaks. Trust me. Is better to just get a bearing replaced from SKF than having to hunt for a VR4 transfer case...they aint cheap. (5-7K for one). Same applies to the rear diff. You must know if its leaking uz when the oil heats up you will smell it, as wel las seeing drops on the garage floor.
TPS Switches (yes PLURAL)....be sure of what you bought. There are two types of VR4 6a13TTs. the Type V's and the Type S's. The manuals tho come with one TPS switch as opposed to the Tiptronic which has two. Be wary. Some ppl swap gearboxes for trannys and dont swap the intake manifold which is also different.
Check yor starter and alternator. Vr4's are notorious for these items failing on you. And suddenly as well.
Upgrade brakes. More than likely the front cut will come with the 5 hole hubs. Invest and get the rear brakes as well. the Stock VRG brakes will not help you.
Hydraulic lifters and engine rebuild kit. Check Prentice for the lifters. They're not that expensive. Invest in the gasket kit primarlily for the rear engine seal. THat seems to go early in the game. While you at it, Get new belts. Do not depend on what the engine came with.
You might find this ludicrous, but get a spare engine, gearbox/tranny and transfer case. VR4 parts are becoming popuar yes, but most dealer wont sell indiviual pieces. You have to buy fornt cuts to get what you want. Bite the bullet and do that. Reason being that the engine is fun and very torquey and its alot of fun when yu now convert. But bear in mind that the turbos are not big so they run out of puff on top. Which brings me to another point.
Boost levels. Dont push the boost levels beyond 18lbs. It dont m,ake sense cuz its only hot air you pushing at that point. Better you look for a pr of TD05 and swap out. Ther are other trick you can do to get the power, but then that would mean that you coming to beat me...and we cant have that now can we?....lol....
Nitrous. IF you want to use Prune juice, be very carefull of wher you drill on th manifold to insert the foggers. the engine is a V, so the cylinder further s from the fogger gets less treatment, and over time?....detonation (a la end of first engine....)
The VRG is lighter than the VR4 cuz the Cr4 was built to handle the extra power. That said, expect the VRG to do weird things...like the front suspension ends suddenly needs changing, or the the trunk/rear quarter starts to rattle. this is due to torsion stress of th new engine.
the above points may seem like alot, but its an investment that is high maintainence. Last but not least: the VR4 was not and will never be an EVO or a STi. Dont try to run the car as tho it is. I made modifications to my drive train to allow for high abuse and that kind of run. But the car is in the class with the Subaru Legacy and Forestors.
you may find this wierd...but if i had to convert a VRG to something else?..i'd drop in an Evo VII engine.
hope this helps those who have been PMing me about coversion issues.
xtech wrote:RUNNING THIS BEAST ON 2WD
(Formula for a VR2)
HMMMM.....Running this monster on 2 wheels?
2WD is not recommended since you will get so much "torque steer" (without front helical LSD)
that this car will be dangerous on the street. But yuh done know that is wat we like to see.
For successfully dropping a Galant/Legnum Vr4 6a13tt into a GDI/ Local Galant which did not leave factory as 4WD this is what you will need.
Required Parts:
1. 6A13tt motor from a Vr4 full harness and brain. Airflow.
2. FTO Front Wheel Drive transmission (if the 4WD conversion seems to be to much work) Yes the Mitsubishi MIVEC FTO (auto or manual box) with Axles. If your going manual you will need to get the required parts i.e linkage, shifter, clutch pedal?etc
3. 4G9x owners will need to purchase the V6 sub-frame from a junkyard if you can find one and have 2? spacers added to the undercarriage with longer bolts.
4. Take the accessory belts and timing belts to a local parts store and match them up. Its so much easier to do while the motor is on the ground.
Misconceptions:
This section is based on rumors from person?s that have no clue, have never seen a 6a13tt.
1. This motor will drop directly into any 8th gen Galant with no alignment worries.
2. There is no clearance issues with the firewall and the rear turbo (TD03-7T) upgrading to TD04-9bs is something to think about one time. I have not found out if the TD05 will fit.
3. Modifying the AWD transmission by removing the front transfer case will destroy the transmission. But if you must go ahead, when you hear a ?whurring? sound you know the transmission is dead.
Installation:
1. Remove the following: Engine/transmission, axles, sub-frame front bumper, both fenders. I4 owners will now want to replace the wiring harness at this junction too.
2. A 2.5? hole will have to be cut into the car to allow the inter-cooler piping to route down on the passenger side.
3. Install the 6a13TT with the FTO transmission, plug in all existing components of the wiring harness.
4. Lastly custom exhaust work, 3" is enough for most if 4" is needed..wow I'll be speechless.
xtech wrote:
What the 2WD undercarrage looks like installed…
1st start off by finding the rear undercarriage bolt that needs to be moved to the front
cut around this square that is hiding the bolt
some replacement bolts/washers that should be welded together and then to the frame.
Here’s an under shot of what needs to be cut/moved
Next you got to find the front hole and throw/weld this bolt in there
Now that left is to remove the FWD Gas tank hangers that are in the way for the AWD Rear end
A regular drill will be able to drill through the spot welds and just hammer it off..
Done! AWD Rear Subframe bolted and mocked up!
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