i using amsoil 15w-50 rite now. it workin real gud but a mech told me to use mobil 1...he say dat u doh really hear abt amsoil in racing cars, u does more hear abt mobil and shell an ting.
banzai...hoss...y u sellin d car. ur car is 1 ah d sweetest vr4 i eva see... u shudda tell me abt dat before, i wuddnt have done d conversion, i wudda buy urs.
Fitment of RPW manafactured 3" exhaust system including high flow metallic cat converter, lukey resonators and canon style muffler Fitment of RPW manafactured 3" dump pipe package Fitment of Haltech Miniceptor unit for control over fuel / ignition and eletronic boost control Fitment of front mounted intercooler unit, core by PWR Fitment of Automatic transmission cooler Fitment of cold air induction kit / battery relocation utilising K&N Pod filter specific to MAF sensor RPW Thermo Block gasket kit Sard Fuel pressure regulator upgrade Fuel pump upgrade to Walbro Unit Lowering springs, shock absorbers, sway bars and strut braces
STAGE 1 - VEHICLE RECEIVED & HALTECH MINICEPTOR INSTALLED
The vehicle has been recieved and confirmed with the owner a rough outline of planned modifications. The first step was to get a baseline for future modifications. This involved placing the vehicle on RPW's Dyna Pack Hub 4wd Dyno for a baseline power run. This was successfully done producing some surprising results. The vehicle, as expected especially with the stock exhaust, was running very rich at high rpm. Surprisingly leanish at low rpms with typical boost at very low rpms. The factory boost control setup didn't allow a lot of boost till quite late. Torque and HP figures were surprsingly high at 162kw at all 4 wheels.
From there David at RPW proceeded to install the Haltech Miniceptor/Interceptor unit. Installation was very straight forward and the unit worked immedietly without resulting in any check engine lights or codes. The unit will provide 20% fuel adjustment, 20 degree ignition timing and control over boost via the Haltechs eletronic boost control options. Some mild tweaking was performed, which was done to test the unit. Fuel was taken out to the value of 2% from 4500 rpm where the vehicle was running rich. The boost control was ramped up a little at low rpm to lift the curve. Even on the factory vehicle, results were immediet with increased 30nm torque at low rpm and a much flatter boost curve. The potential of the vehicle is easy to see, and we very much look forward to playing with it further. Below are the dyno print outs showing all relevant information - Boost V Air/Fuel Ratio and another showing Power V Torque. All future dyno's will be done with the Haltech set to a Zero state, other than a flat boost curve reprogrammed to provide a stable front for future mods. This way we can show clearly all upgrades and there results.
STAGE 2- EXHAUST MODS INSTALLED AND TESTED
The next round of mods involved the first stage of exhaust, to simulate what the majority of owners would like to do next. The vehicles cat back system was removed, being a small diameter 2 1/4 - 2 1/2" system and replaced with a mandrel bent 3" systerm. A high flow metallic cat converter was fitted, followed by a Lukey chambered resonator and Lukey Ultra Flow cannon muffler with tip. The car sounded awesome, although a little loud. We would recomend for the majority of owners to consider using a oval shaped more packed muffler if noise is an issue because when utilising a 3" system, it is quite diffiicult to get that balance of sound and removal of droning.
The vehicle responded quite nicely on the dyno with a subsequent 227hp at all four wheels, up from the factory 215hp. The boost curve picked up earlier and held higher till around 4500 rpm where it flattened to match teh factory curve again. The air fuel ratio was again on par with the factory leaning out slightly in some area's, richening up in others. Obviously with tuning this along woudl result in some major improvements. All in all we were pleasently surprised with the gains, Nothing staggering, but considering the limited flow designs of the factory flex pipe / dump pipe configuration, gains were as expected. Below are dyno printouts of the exhaust mods over the baseline stock printout so people can see exactly what we are referring to.
Careful examination of the dyno graphs show how well the vehicle improves on its boost curve especally at low rpms with exhaust changes only. We expect the gains from the dump pipe to mirror this exactly but with greater results again in the low rpm range especially the torque. Sorry for those that we jumped around from HP to KW in some cases. I am sure that as long as people see the same values on the comparisons, they will get the point.
STAGE 3- RPW DUMP PIPE PACKAGE TESTED- PART 1 UNTUNED
The next round of mods, and the ones most people were waiting on. Fitment of the dump pipe package. RPW manafactured two designs, both virtually identical other than one running the same setup as the Pro Ida system running a 2 3/4" diameter outlet pipe after the merging of the two individual dump pipes coming off the backs of the turbos. The other was the same system but utilising a flex pipe on the front pipe and upgrading to 3" diamater on the merge point up to the cat back system. For this test we only tested the smaller pipe package because of several reasons being
We quite honestly ran out of time between fitting and time on / off the dyno Our sample pipe 3" kit was made on the vehicle and would have needed some serious welding to be suitable for a proper test on a vehicle\ We know that the 3" kit can only be better than the smaller 2 3/4" kit. We are expecting back a completed reproduction of our 3" kit in the future which will be retested on the same vehicle to provide a back to back test. This is the kit we quite honestly beleive will be the one we produce regardless (The 3" kit) Once fitted, the results were exactly as expected. Gains in boost at low rpm, with a mild horsepower gain and a nice torque improvement. Also noted was the vehicle leaned out surprisingly at light loads on the air/fuel ratio, but richened up a lot under boost, mostly because the vehicles boost level increased significantly enough to go into richer area's of the factory mapping points. This ultra rich combination lost horsepower, resulting in an overal minor gain due to the increased richness. Torque was still improved and the boost level at low rpm was still higher than factory. The 3" kit would have produced slightly better results compared to factory stock. The torque gains at low rpm though, especially in the 2500 rpm range were massive compared to factory, although a lot of this was due to the higher base boost levels now being optained
At the same time a Walbro fuel pump was fitted to the vehicle and new NGK Platinum PF6J spark plugs fitted. These plugs are a slighly colder plug due to a more recessed nose compared to the units found in the vehicle or the suggested NGK BKR7EIX units. Neither of these items would have had any effect on horsepower or air/fuel ratio's, or if they did only maybe 1 - 2 hp at the most. Once the increased boost is started, then they will become crucial once we go beyond factory tolerances on the tuning.
Below are the dyno printouts firstly showing the before / after comparison from stock to the dump pipe kit without tuning.
After baseline runs without tuning, then spent a quick half an hour doing some fuel only tuning with the Haltech Interceptor kit. Results were very very pleasing, with the vehicle responding very well to the tuning. Some maps had as much as a 10% reduction in fuel between 4500 - 6000 rpm range. This mod should result with tuning, in a significant fuel economy improvement along with the better acceleration that comes with the boost curve kicking in a lot earler with much less effort. On the road the car's throttle response was great. The only side effect, the greater airflow definitly increased noise volume from the exhaust. I would now definitly recomend to most customers to not use a cannon muffler, and to instead go for the oval muffler to make the vehicle more pleasant to drive. More aggressive tuning could have been done, but was not due to future plans in the next two weeks including the cold air K&N rampod kit and intercooler fitment. Then we will increase boost and do some hardcore tuning on the vehicle.
As can be clearly seen, the car's power, torque and boost levels increased dramatically with the gains, lifting the car up to 252hp at all four wheels. Below are two sets of graphs, one showing a tuned V untuned comparison with the dump pipe and another showing the total gains after tuning compared to complete stock. The air/fuel ratio's definitly show the improvement. Interestingly as well, the more we leaned the car out, the more power it made, the more boost it begain producing clearly showing the vehicle was literally chocking itself by over fuelling on the factory ecu. This is where the dump pipe package really showed itself as to the gains it could produce. [img]http://www.rpw.com.au/Photos/Customer%20Vehicles/Galant%20VR4%20EC5W/Madhav%20Legnum%20Turbo/Dump%20Pipe%203inch%20Cat%20Back%20Tuned%20V%20Untuned%20MAP%20V%20Airfuel.jpg [/img]
STAGE 7- FRONT MOUNTED INTERCOOLER WITH K&N RAMPOD WITH COLD AIR INDUCTION
The vehicle has now been fitted with the RPW Recomended, PWR Aero 2 Model 300 X 210 X 76mm intercooler. This was chosen specifically as anything taller would simply be covered by the factory bumpers and not produce any additioanl benefits. This size is perfect as it is completely open to air and gets the full benefit of being cooled by incoming air. The vehicle was also fitted with the RPW recomended K&N Pod filter kit. Additionally, a auto transmission cooler was fitted, mounted behind the radiator. The work was done by a well known Western Australian Firm, Embleton Engineering and there work is to be comended. Below are photos of the kit, future plans on this include conversion of the Pod filter to a enclosed area with a cold air feed. This will not effect the tuning of the vehicle, but wil provide better performance on hot days.
STAGE 8- HARD CORE TUNING
The vehicle now has everything ready to do some hard core tuning. The haltech was hooked up fully and the vehicle fitted to our Dyna Pack Hub Dyno. For a Youtube copy of the vehicle doing a power run, check the following link.
You Tube Link
The tuning proceeded nicely with the vehicle responding as we expected. Our first lot of tuning was done on the factory boost curve without intervention in an effort to provide a clear indication of what the vehicle can do on the same level of boost with all the upgraded mods provided and good tuning. Needless to say the results were impressive. From there we then took control of the boost solenoid with the Haltech Interceptor Unit. Reaching a peak of 14 psi we eventually flattend out the boost curve to an average of 13.5 psi. The results were explosive with the vehicle producing extremely strong torque and horsepower figures below 5000 rpm, flattening out on the top end. With these vehicles running a factory built boost restrictor pill, see photo below , the limit was reached with this restrictor still fitted. With removal of this restrictor, increased boost would be available, but with the vehicle now running out of fuel in the petrol tank (1/2 tank disapeared in the space of 2 hours), and the boost limit getting close to the turbo's capabilities, and being an auto, we agreed to leave the vehicle at that level of boost. Tuning was done on both fuel and ignition, with a total of 4 degrees ignition timing provided on the stock boost curve. On the higher boost levels, boost was reduced to only 2 degrees in some area's to avoid pinging.
On the road, the best word we can say is simply, explosive. As can be seen from the dyno curves, the torque curve is phenominal with nearly a virtual doubling of torque at 2500 rpm compared to stock. On the road it literally throws you in the seat and I can saftely say many an EVO driver would be envious of the acceleration of the vehicle. The transmission cooler kept the trans in good condition, but I would love to do all this on a manuel model which would be even better without the torque sucking effect of an Automatic Transmission.
There will be some other mods planned for this test car with a turbo upgrade to some TD04 units, little more boost and fuel upgrades like a FPR unit for the extra higher boost levels. A comparison of the stock vehicle dyno results and the finished results are also linked there. as most people can see the results are very impressive We have also shown the tuned figures with and without boost increase.
1) What plugs to use with the 6a13tt? I want to eventually raise boost.... think its bkr6 platinum at the moment but low down in boost the car sputters slightly... Any advice guys?
2) Also, where can i get the original new timing belt?
The age old question of whether or not a spark plug can really increase the performance and economy of a vehicle has raged on for years. While in general the basic consensus is no, to be quite honest there is definitely sufficient evidence out there today that not all spark plugs are created equal.
There are spark plugs that do seem to increase the efficiency of a vehicles engine on occasion, and there are certainly spark plugs that last a lot longer than others, which besides saving you additional tune-up costs, leaves just a few less old spark plugs in the landfill somewhere.
To really understand spark plugs efficiency, you first have to understand the basic principle behind them. The spark plug is the middle man between your ignition system and the power stroke of your standard gasoline engine.
The spark plug consists of a center electrode and a separate ground electrode placed just above the center electrode, both attaching to the body of the spark plug. In between the two electrodes is what is called as air gap, which is where a high voltage spark (40,000 to 100,000 volts) must travel to ignite the air/fuel mixture.
Once the mixture ignites, an explosion is created that drives the pistons down, cranking the cam shaft, which subsequently turns the driveline and powers your vehicle either forward or backward. Here is where we come to one of the biggest problems when it comes to the efficiency of your spark plugs, quenching.
Quenching can be described best as when the potential of a spark plug is drown out by being smothered by the electrodes below and above the air gap. This smothering action causes one electrode to zap the heat out of the sparks explosion, which is what is necessary to create a complete and efficient burn to offer the most fuel efficiency possible.
With so much at stake for every revolution of the engine, it is easy to see why the spark plug has been the brunt of a lot of improved formulations. One of these being the basic composition that a plug is made of.
Which Spark Plug Composition Should You choose?
Copper The basic spark plug is made of copper, which is actually a pretty good conductor of voltage. The problem with copper is that it is not as hard as some metals and it therefore wears down with the high pressure and heat inside the engine. This wear eventually causes the plugs to foul and work less efficiently over time.
The wear also can cause the air gap in the plug to increase, which can cause a loss in vehicle fuel efficiency and even misfiring in extreme cases. This is because it takes more and more voltage to jump between the electrodes the greater the air gaps widens. One way around this is to use a harder metal, like platinum.
Platinum Platinum is a much harder metal than copper and has a much higher melting point. This gives platinum the advantage of lasting longer than conventional coper plugs. Besides longevity, platinum plugs in themselves do not make the spark better, or more efficient than copper in any way.
The main advantage of platinum over copper is its ability to heat better, which subsequently burns off deposits better, and its ability to handle high heat, also enables the plug to hold up better and reduce the amount of air gap change over time.
The only way that a platinum plug could be considered any better at creating fuel efficiency for an engine, is if it can reduce the size of the center electrode to the size of a fine wire tip. This reduces the chance of quenching, because it leaves less area for the heat to be reabsorbed by the plug.
His design also gives the added benefit of needing less voltage to jump the gap in order to create a complete burn. This can be an particularly nice benefit for older engines with less efficient ignition systems. Both benefits give the combustion process the potential to create a more complete burn and therefore greater fuel efficiency.
Iridium Iridium is said to be six times harder and eight times stronger than platinum. This means that spark plugs can have even finer electrodes than ever before and still have excellent wear characteristics. Platinum is precious enough, but iridium is even more precious, which is why it is hard to find a single platinum plug for much under $6-$8 and an iridium plug for under $12-$14.
Is it worth the extra cost for platinum and iridium? Yes and no.
If you are willing to change your plugs once every year or two depending on your driving habits (and it is actually quite easy to change your spark plugs), copper plugs can offer good performance and efficiency. It is also worth mentioning, that with platinum and iridium plugs you generally get what you pay for.
The more expensive the plug, the more platinum (double/triple coated) or iridium is usually used in the plug. A thin coating of these precious metals will not fair as well as a thicker, so in general, you won't want to go the cheap route, as it would be better to just use good old copper for your maximum value.
However, in general, the standard copper plug does not reduce quenching like many of the platinum and iridium plugs can. With this said, technology has opened copper type plugs to the similar benefits of the fine electrode using various configurations and shapes. This is where the specialty plug comes in, such as the U-groove or Splitfire.
So in closing if you enjoy changing the hard to reach spark plugs regularly on this V6 go Copper.
I can hear yuh V6 sputter from a mile away ...... lol
hey fellas...i wanna do over my intake system, where can i go to get my intake done neatly and properly(with stainless steel). wud d greddy ssqv be better than d hks ssqv...i heard some ppl say dat d hks does damage fast and it does leak.
Hi guys, kind of new here but just to add to the pot, a couple years ago when I did my conversion the engine came lightly tuned pushing 18 pounds of boost not the usual 7-8 pounds and the spark plugs that they were using was NGK Platinum (PFR6J-11 also known as 2743), the car was pulling really strong but as the months past and they started to break down at that time I could not find them anywhere so I was advised to try the Denso IK22, the car started with a click but there was a noticeable drop in performance.
I also tried NGK BKR7EIX which I have in at the moment, also with a noticeable drop in performance, Now I found out that I can get the PFR6J Down South for $100.00 each. I ended up buying mine at www.summitracing.com for $9.99 us each, it cost me cheaper and it came to my door, I have not put them in as yet so we'll see what happens when I do.
After using the 6J's for a while as soon as we replaced them with the IK22's the car just felt a little lazy to me, especially in 4th and 5th gear, but as you rightly pointed out, it could simply be as simple as the mechanic not adjusting the gap of the plugs.
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