Haha Aaron 2NR I knew the engine had parts, and needed work but it is coming together nicely, first problem today, dropped the last bolt from the oil pickup into the engine, borrowed a trusty wire and magnet, cleaned it thoroughly first and then went in and removed the bolt. The condition of the block is good, crank is stock, piston are forged or at least N1 forged pistons, but thinking if they used carillos then it had to be uprated, checked the oil pump and definitely an HKS as confirmed from RHDjapan at a price tag of $1300USD, the carillos are set at a whopping $2000USD. As for the intake throttle plate I may take a chance and try to match port the other I have off the engine and see if I can do a better job at matching them as said before they may hinder flow a little.
I removed the rear seal and have it soaking right now and need to get an OEM replacement ASAP along with an OEM Oil Pump gasket replacement, hoping Massy has these that I can pickup individually or maybe I am lucky and they have a complete gasket kit for the RB26. Will find out tomorrow. I need the oil pump gasket, rear seal and oil pickup seal to be able to reseal the sump and call it a day for the bottom engine refresh. I have covered the bottom end with clean t-shirts that are lint free for now until I get the seals. Gonna tackle the oil pump in a bit and clean that up and have it waiting and then scrape adn clean the front and rear areas and prep them for when I get the seals and gaskets.
Oil pickup and baffle plates and windage trays have been cleaned and already bolted on the windage trays. Left all the bolts soaking in kerosene and picked up some thinners to clean things before I re-install them. Right now looking for some grey silicone gasket as I don't like the new red one that they sell with gasket kits, the colour looks horrid on a clean engine.
Turbohead, yeah the oil pump is confirmed an HKS unit and I checked the wear on the inner gear already and it is very slight, no cracks either, I am gonna open it up nevertheless and clean it and loctite the screws for the backing plate up nice so they don't come out as they notoriously do. I am also gonna check the diameter on the oit return holes to the rear on the head to see if they were widened from the standard 10mm, they usually widen them to 11mm to aid quicker oil return, I am gonna get the sump tapped for this very reason to allow the crankcase to breathe better and not keep a pressure building on the rear oil return galleries and keeping the oil in the head and starving the crank. We'll see how that goes. Some pics,
Cleaned Extended Sump Baffling,
Windage Trays Cleaned and Refitted,
Forged Goodness,
Rear Crankshaft Seal, will be replaced,
Rear Crankshaft looking proper,
The Suspect, last bolt to be scrapped and he takes a dive,
Before Windage Trays go in,
OEM N1 Crankshaft,
Cleaned and Modded Oil Pickup / Strainer,
Cleaned and Modded Windage Trays,
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