My EVO 7 4G64 Budget Build - Stock Frame dyno results

[.:PROZAC:..]

The xyz brand is gaining some traction up here also. But they look like decent budget setups like HSD and STD. They have some nice brake kits as well. Buddy using a set on a GTR front and rear and they've held up over a year.
The factories some of this stuff is coming out of is pretty close to the bigger brands in build quality.

[Sinister_Audio]

nice!
what EMS, and who's tuning it?

and i like everything there except the cometic gasket but the build looks good!

I've never had good luck with the cometic gaskets either.

yup, i've actually never heard 'good' reviews about cometic gaskets....

honestly, key part factors such as this (esp h. gasket & studs) i would never 'go cheap' on.... as a matter of fact, i'd like to place ALL my reliability on these parts.... and it's not a toyota who's known for having monster FACTORY gaskets. so if it were me, i would have gone with the power enterprise, or even cozworth.

[wana-B-racer]

Yeah i sourced a Power Enterprise Head gasket already.

Looking to upgrade my Ebay intercooler and came across these
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/pr ... ler++860HP

Now i know that ETS, BR, AMS and CBRD are known for quality using garrett cores and stuff.
But remember its a budget build. unless i get a used ETS.

[Sinister_Audio]

Yeah i sourced a Power Enterprise Head gasket already.

Looking to upgrade my Ebay intercooler and came across these
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/pr ... ler++860HP

Now i know that ETS, BR, AMS and CBRD are known for quality using garrett cores and stuff.
But remember its a budget build. unless i get a used ETS.

parts such as ICs really just increase EFFICIENCY across the board, and yes different brands use different materials that increase flow and heat dissipation, but i guess in cases such as a 'budget build' going with a less efficient IC isn't gonna blow ur sheit up....

but maybe later look for better cooling and flow by upgrading after the project is complete.
i guess in that way you can truly compare the benefits of 'upgrading' when you compare the intake temps: before/after

[Rooki3]

inside.for.this

[Dave]

Many high HP cars use the Mitsu HG which is already a metal gasket
Nice build

[W2J]

nice!
what EMS, and who's tuning it?

and i like everything there except the cometic gasket but the build looks good!

I've never had good luck with the cometic gaskets either.

yup, i've actually never heard 'good' reviews about cometic gaskets....

honestly, key part factors such as this (esp h. gasket & studs) i would never 'go cheap' on.... as a matter of fact, i'd like to place ALL my reliability on these parts.... and it's not a toyota who's known for having monster FACTORY gaskets. so if it were me, i would have gone with the power enterprise, or even cozworth.

OE Mitsubishi gasket is fine and stands up to 1000whp+ always remember a head gasket is a fuse if you detonate and it does not blow something will break. With regards to L19 you don't need unless you going to run some insane compression and even then they normally O-ring the block and head. BTW I hope you get a machined Water pump / adapter for that build that's one of the weak links also cam timing is normally 1-2* off you will need to dial it in before you install.

[16 cycles]

don't know if OP came across thread already..

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-engine ... 8-9-a.html

^might help

mentions issues wrt to water pump as outlined by W2J

[wana-B-racer]

AMS sells the modified OEM headgasket but not to the public,i know i should not have ordered the Cometic, although English Racing uses them without issues.

Yeah 16 cycles i've read that post and many many more. did research for about a year on this project. Read numerous builds on evom.

W2J My choices are SlowBoy racing water pump spacer, English racing modified water pump, I heard the evo 7 original water pump works. What I'll do is compare the existing 4g64 WP to the original evo 7 and then decide.

[wana-B-racer]

This weekend i will be scrapping the block and sending it to deck and line bore. My reason for line boring the block is simply because I'm using aftermarket ARP mains and these require greater torque and may distort the block and girdle a little.

Seeing that its a daily driver what are you're opinions on installing oil squirters?

[W2J]

AMS sells the modified OEM headgasket but not to the public,i know i should not have ordered the Cometic, although English Racing uses them without issues.

Yeah 16 cycles i've read that post and many many more. did research for about a year on this project. Read numerous builds on evom.

W2J My choices are SlowBoy racing water pump spacer, English racing modified water pump, I heard the evo 7 original water pump works. What I'll do is compare the existing 4g64 WP to the original evo 7 and then decide.

Evo4-9 is the same pump skip 8, it would not work has to be modified. My choice would be to talk to Lucas from English racing. The expensive "AMS modified gasket" is just Dremeled out version of the OEM to 88mm bore FYI. As I said higher up in the thread you will have a timing issue your will need to go 1-2* of retard timing.

[wana-B-racer]

AMS sells the modified OEM headgasket but not to the public,i know i should not have ordered the Cometic, although English Racing uses them without issues.

Yeah 16 cycles i've read that post and many many more. did research for about a year on this project. Read numerous builds on evom.

W2J My choices are SlowBoy racing water pump spacer, English racing modified water pump, I heard the evo 7 original water pump works. What I'll do is compare the existing 4g64 WP to the original evo 7 and then decide.

Evo4-9 is the same pump skip 8, it would not work has to be modified. My choice would be to talk to Lucas from English racing. The expensive "AMS modified gasket" is just Dremeled out version of the OEM to 88mm bore FYI. As I said higher up in the thread you will have a timing issue your will need to go 1-2* of retard timing.

Yeah will do. I know of the timing issue when using the 6mm higher block. I think AMS says around 3.5 deg

[W2J]

This weekend i will be scrapping the block and sending it to deck and line bore. My reason for line boring the block is simply because I'm using aftermarket ARP mains and these require greater torque and may distort the block and girdle a little.

Seeing that its a daily driver what are you're opinions on installing oil squirters?

not needed and even if you do you will have to bend the squirter to clear the stroke. There is no reason for line boring.

[Sanctifier]

Very nice project...

16)ARP Head and Main Bolts

Have to carry the block to be Line Bored and decked.

Which Machine Shop did you choose?... and what did they charge?

In spite of opinions to the contrary, when using Head Studs (instead of OEM Head bolts**) you will get more reliability when you align-bore/hone... and if you want "longer engine life"... and more power/torque you MUST use a Torque Plate for ALL machining work.

This is a link to a Car Craft mag article on "Engine Blueprinting"...

Link--> ~ From The Archives ~ A Guide To Engine Blueprinting.

... and a UK Aeronautical engineer's (and widely respected Evo 6 builder/2nr's) opinion (MLR's Clive W) on the subject...

Link--> Torque plate.

Their $0.02¢

** BTW for the record... Cylinder head Bolts are "Torque-to-yield" design... and are ONE USE ONLY! Check the Workshop Manual.

's $0.02¢

[wana-B-racer]

I used D.Rampersad already under my supervision.

I'm not cylinder boring over the block, using the stock bore. I read alot of places saying to line bore the block when using aftermarket studs.Even the very popular How to Build Max-Performance Mitsubishi 4G63t Engines say it.

[Miatabrah]

I wanted to hone the cylinder on my 4G63 myself, so I must have a torque plate made?

[Sanctifier]

^ ^ ^ Since CliveW and others actually measured the cylinder bores (before & after) and found such large variances
(up to 0.0015"+)... I would follow their advice.

To save bucks I'll make a torque plate from the 4G63 block (in the link) when the time (& $$$) comes for a rebuild...
... and I'll try to follow their advice to the letter (including torqueing down all brackets) to "load" (stress) the block before getting any machine work done.

My $0.02¢

[black start]

I anticipate an epic build.....inside

[legoRB]

Subbbed.

[khandman]

Nice project. Always see this car every weekend. The vic that's usually parked next to it looks pretty sweet too. Good luck.

[wana-B-racer]

Thanks, Have it looking a bit different from all the other civics around.
Parts trickling slowly
Carbon Fiber Side Spats


Also for everyone asking about the turbo upgrade it was done by Turbo Labs Of America

Website
http://turbolabofamerica.com/turbo-upgr ... 4sDb9.dpbs

[W2J]

Thanks, Have it looking a bit different from all the other civics around.
Parts trickling slowly
Carbon Fiber Side Spats


Also for everyone asking about the turbo upgrade it was done by Turbo Labs Of America

Website
http://turbolabofamerica.com/turbo-upgr ... 4sDb9.dpbs

http://www.rexpeed.net/2012/en/dealer.php

http://www.rexpeed.net/2012/en/product_detail.php?serial=21

always in stock

[wana-B-racer]

Finally got the block scrapped.Some pics of the water pump.
The issue was if the water pump will fit up, this is the gasket i got from the rebuild kit and it lines up with the water pump. (I think?)





The Block and Crank







Another issue i had was if to install oil squirters on the block, it being an Daily Driver
Then i saw these



Another thing is the oil pump
4G64 vs Evo 4

[wana-B-racer]

Update
Head checked and crank polished.
Things coming in slowly, block has to go by machine shop next week, block has to drill for dip stick.
WTB/LF: Evolution oil pan (USED)

[.:PROZAC:..]

thx for the update.
looking good.

[Porn Star]

Nice. Looking forward to the finished product.

[wana-B-racer]

Upgrade some music

[coltspeed]

5 channel?

[wana-B-racer]

Yep, Did not want 2 amps, this should be sufficient.

[NXTREME]