08 Toyota Fielder Idle Rpm / Charging "Issues"

image91 · Postby **image91** » February 19th, 2019, 3:47 pm

Good day all. For a while now i've been having some concerns with my idle rpm & alternator charging voltage. i'm not sure if it's the way the vehicle is designed or if it's something wrong. The vehicle idles at 625 rpm. The charging voltage at startup is 14.1v but after 5 mins or less, & what i have to assume is the engine reaching idle temp, the charge drops to 13.2v & stays there not matter what until the engine cools again.

Is anyone familiar enough with these vehicles to tell me if this is normal? If so, is there a way to up my idle to at least 800 rpm?

Thanks!

Postby SR » February 19th, 2019, 8:16 pm

Alternators drop charging capabilities when it gets hot

Ted_v2 · Postby **Ted_v2** » February 19th, 2019, 9:50 pm

thats normal IMO.

image91 · Postby **image91** » February 19th, 2019, 11:18 pm

Hm. So is it that the charging capability naturally drops? Or is it set up that way? i was told that the computer is regulating the alternator & is dropping the charge rate possibly after sensing that the vehicle has warmed up?

i am upgrading the alternator soon & am wondering if i will get any similar effects even though the new alternator has a built in regulator. Will the charge stay in the 14s or will it also drop into the 13s?

Currently, i'm more worried about the idle atm because the lowest rating for the new alternator is 140A @ 800 rpm.

Rovin · Postby **Rovin** » February 20th, 2019, 11:30 am

sounds sort of normal , cold start voltage is in 14s drops into mid 13s

when alt companies say rpm rating they mean rpm of d alt itself eh not d engine's rpm ...

image91 · Postby **image91** » February 20th, 2019, 12:30 pm

Appreciate the input thus far folks.

Yup, hoping i can get a smaller pulley to work to cater for the engine rpm due to the fact that it still seems low imo. Would that be all i'd need to hopefully solve that issue?

Any opnions on running a direct alternator body to battery - ?

Postby SR » February 20th, 2019, 12:32 pm

Most aftermarket alternators require a higher idling rpm to produce proper charging. Even with a smaller pulley.

image91 · Postby **image91** » February 20th, 2019, 12:34 pm

SR wrote:Most aftermarket alternators require a higher idling rpm to produce proper charging. Even with a smaller pulley.

That's my concern. But the smaller pulley will help somewhat?

Postby SR » February 20th, 2019, 12:43 pm

Yes but getting the right pulley for the engine is challenging for non american vehicles

image91 · Postby **image91** » February 20th, 2019, 9:53 pm

Was told that i should be able to get a smaller pulley to work with my vehicle with the alternator but want to make sure that's the case.

Any opinions on running a direct 0g alternator body to battery - ?

Postby SR » February 21st, 2019, 6:31 am

Everyone selling those alts tell you that but how many of them can supply you with the correct pulley.

Currently running a 200amp with an internal regulator on a 1nze engine with a smaller pulley but it still needs a higher engine rpm than normal at idle to charge properly.

Runnning zero gauge from the alt direct to the battery

image91 · Postby **image91** » February 21st, 2019, 9:08 am

Let's hope i really can get the right pulley. i understand it will probably not be enough but at least it might help. What other option do i have for my vehicle in terms of upping the rpm? (1nz-fe engine)

Not sure if part of your response is missing?
"Runnning zero gauge from the alt direct to the battery"

Just realized you meant in the other vehicle.
Is that just a positive run? Or ground as well?

Postby SR » February 23rd, 2019, 8:11 am

200 amp alt with internal regulator and underdrive pulley for the 1nze
For sale as i am downgrading the system in the vehicle and there is no need for it