sq Build advice needed

[Automotive Solutions]

Ok so i just got my other vehicle and i wanna do a sq system with some components i already have-

-Boston Acoustics Gta 1005 5 channel
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 50 watts x 4 chan. + 250 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan. + 400 watts x 1 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 160 watts x 2 chan. + 250 watts x 1 chan.

-Kicker front row crossover
-alpine cda 117 headunit
-image dynamics Id 10
THESE ARE WHAT I HAVE CURRENTLY GATHERING DUST LOL!


need some advice on what component speakers i should use-
morel tempo ultra 602
or
focal ps 165
(would be running the components active)

plus wanna go ported on the sub box so what frequency i should tune too
And
what slopes i should use not only on the sub but mids n highs as well

thanks for the help and feel free to make suggestions

[kavaninho]

Nice equipment there. Post some build pics while you at it too.
I would lose the kicker front row and use the HU alone just to keep it simple. (Whats the xover points on the 117 like? can it bandpass?)

[Soundstream_626]

Judging from the tweeter specs from both models, the tweeter on the morel can cross a bit lower (at abt 3k) than the focal. As for highpassing the mids' 80hz at 12db would be a safe starting point. Everyone`s listening habits are different, you may be able to go a little lower in frequency if you dont listen as loud as someone else.

As far as the sub, it`s personal preference. Iasca sq type bass is very minimal in output vs what we are accustomed to.

[ruffneck_12]

which sub you have?

the d2 or the d4?

http://media.wix.com/ugd/d53db0_5458adc ... 63eaf5.pdf

The normal sized ported box seems like a good bet

[Automotive Solutions]

so the crossover points i was looking at

sub- 75hz down
midbass to midrange - 70hz to 5khz
highs - 3khz up

now i like to listen to music abit loud but my glass always stay up in my car
would the power i have on mids and highs be ok?
what freq should i tune the sub at?

plus apart for the image sub i also have a pair of jbl gto 8 inch
i have heard both play before and i cant decide which to use.
Any recommendation here?

little advantage with the headunit is that i can time align individual speakers
Most of my music comes from itunes and original cds

thanks for the help so far guys!!!!

if using the jbl 8 wanna do individual enclosures like this

[Automotive Solutions]

which sub you have?

the d2 or the d4?

http://media.wix.com/ugd/d53db0_5458adc ... 63eaf5.pdf

The normal sized ported box seems like a good bet

d4

[X_Factor]

awesome sub
I had the ID12 in 1cube sealed bolted to the chassis--not loud by any means but awesome....transient...fast....pretty accurate
currently the RE is ported @28hz....and i think i would choose the ID over it for

put more attention to the install than equipment.....tweeter placement, proper dampening of doors, well constructed sub box

[Automotive Solutions]

another question is which side should i have the port facing? dont understand to much bout this on - off axis thing.

[SR]

What vehicle?

[nervewrecker]

awesome sub
I had the ID12 in 1cube sealed bolted to the chassis--not loud by any means but awesome....transient...fast....pretty accurate
currently the RE is ported @28hz....and i think i would choose the ID over it for

put more attention to the install than equipment.....tweeter placement, proper dampening of doors, well constructed sub box

Trying to make up my mind between these ID and the jbl right now.

[X_Factor]

a pair of ID 10's sealed will be amazing!!!

[nervewrecker]

a pair of ID 10's sealed will be amazing!!!

Thinking about it. Have about 800watts to play with.

Op, cross to suit your liking.

I like my midbass punchy but with the right sub, right enclosure and right install your sub can do the punch.

About 50 watts per midwoofer is acceptable and can get pretty loud in there. 75 to 100 you better have some serious dampening on the doors.
Usually a lot less is needed for the tweeters.
400 watts on a ported 12 can do some damage.

[Automotive Solutions]

What vehicle?

evo 9

[SR]

Pair of 6 1/2 comps in the fron oem locations and 6 1/2 coaxials in the back if rear fill is required Single 12" sub should be sufficient in a sealed encolsure if leaning towards sq. If you want a little more boom then a 10" ported. Depending on choice of amps and which front seats you have a single small footprint 5 channel amp can fit under the front passenger seat. If not a simple amp rack behind the back seat or you can look at other custom options. Rear spoiler on the trunk lid is going to rattle as well as the back dash itself depending on how many times it was removed before.

[SQBOY]

With the equipment you have I would go with the Morel Tempo Ultra 602 active and the ID 10 ported and ditch the kicker front row. The HU will have all the processing you will need.

[Automotive Solutions]

Pair of 6 1/2 comps in the fron oem locations and 6 1/2 coaxials in the back if rear fill is required Single 12" sub should be sufficient in a sealed encolsure if leaning towards sq. If you want a little more boom then a 10" ported. Depending on choice of amps and which front seats you have a single small footprint 5 channel amp can fit under the front passenger seat. If not a simple amp rack behind the back seat or you can look at other custom options. Rear spoiler on the trunk lid is going to rattle as well as the back dash itself depending on how many times it was removed before.

so apart from said equipment i also have which was by my in-laws house a alpine pdx 5 (75 rms x 4 @4 ohm or 2ohm & 300rms x 1 @4ohm or 2ohm as well) + a pdx 150.2 (150rms x 2 @4ohm or 2ohm)

had these years now and suppose to be use to do a 3 ways active system but never got a chance too

[nervewrecker]

I have a pdx 5.
Gets the job done.
A ported 12 gets loud on that 300watts

[Automotive Solutions]

I have a pdx 5.
Gets the job done.
A ported 12 gets loud on that 300watts

good plan or bad plan here?
morel woofers on the 2 channel
morel tweeters on the 5 channel (using channel 1 & 2)
id sub on the sub channel of the pdx 5

[kavaninho]

Use just the 5 channel, a single amp. Get a HU like any pioneer with the network mode or something that can do bandpassing (for the woofer) and cross the tweet where you want so you can ditch the Front row. The 117 is great but needs a to be assisted by an external crossover to run a fully 3 way active system.

[nervewrecker]

I have a pdx 5.
Gets the job done.
A ported 12 gets loud on that 300watts

good plan or bad plan here?
morel woofers on the 2 channel
morel tweeters on the 5 channel (using channel 1 & 2)
id sub on the sub channel of the pdx 5

Try everything on the pdx 5 alone. Gets stupid loud.
When you approaching 100watts on midbass doors need a lot of material to keep quiet.

[X_Factor]

yeah 5 channel...less stress

[Automotive Solutions]

Use just the 5 channel, a single amp. Get a HU like any pioneer with the network mode or something that can do bandpassing (for the woofer) and cross the tweet where you want so you can ditch the Front row. The 117 is great but needs a to be assisted by an external crossover to run a fully 3 way active system.

Kicker front row does bandpass from 10hz - 5khz

http://www.kicker.com/12ZXDSP1

[nervewrecker]

Get an 80prs lol

[Automotive Solutions]

Get an 80prs lol

what about a p99rs or processor?

[kavaninho]

Get an 80prs lol

what about a p99rs or processor?

Well if you have that kind of coin go right ahead

[SR]

Get an 80prs lol

I agree

[nervewrecker]

Get an 80prs lol

what about a p99rs or processor?

Overkill.

Im using the 80prs with my pdx5. Its all I need

[crazybalhead]

I have:

A PRS 80
PPI 5 channel circa 2001 (That's right)
10 year old RS6 DLS components and a pair of kenwood 6 1/2" from a component set in the rear.
Sub is a single 4ohm JL in a sealed bassworx box.

I've been doing some tinkering and recently after many years, decided to properly auto TA and EQ.

Man...it sounds amazing for sound Q. Very solid center, above dash height stage. Up front bass.

Now after the Auto EQ and TA I had to do some tweaks. Had to reverse the polarity on the sub as the deck had made the distance so far that the delay caused it to be out of phase with the fronts.

Had to bump the sub up 4 DB and take the fronts down 3-4DB as the bass was way too low. With an evo the constant drone at 50-60 hz, really impairs the bass.

Otherwise nicely balanced, if a little tame on the bass side. No boombastic sound, but a lot of the notes I had missing before have come to life. Vocals especially and string instruments, some mid upper bass (80-120HZ).

Not much rattles really, I guess not too much power, but with the car moving there is so much rattles and noises anyway it's hard to tell. There is no turn on noise, no hiss or hum, and with the car off and parked, the system is rattle free.

The auto set up crossed over the sub at 80 hz with a 18DB slope, and the mid at 50hz with a 12 db slope.

I don't have it in network mode, just normal front rear sub and using the speaker passive crossovers to deal with the tweeters and mid crossover points.

One day I'll try the network mode, but enjoying the music for now.