Fuse holder burning

[GameOver]

2nd time. Returned to installer the first time. He changed the holder. That was maybe a year ago.. fuse remained unbroken

Jbl gto amp - sub channel rated 500 rms @ 2ohms

https://www.crutchfield.com/ISEO-rgbtcs ... O-5EZ.html

Sub - JL audio 13TW5v2-2 recommended 250-600rms

https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/Image ... 3TW524.PDF

4 gauge wire
90amp fuse

Mid range - jbl gto speakers rated 75 and 100 rms

Gains set to prevent clipping using JBL recommend settings with included output cd - feature of amp

Vehicle- Nissan d40

Any suggestions of what may be causing this?

[X_Factor]

when u say burning, black ?
or melting?

anl type or agu type?
if its those agu type, depending on where in the engine bay the fuse holder is placed, they would melt easily
also they brand of holder would depend on quality etc

once the fuse itself isnt blown, you could consider using a better quality holder and moving its current location

[GameOver]

when u say burning, black ?
or melting?

anl type or agu type?
if its those agu type, depending on where in the engine bay the fuse holder is placed, they would melt easily
also they brand of holder would depend on quality etc

once the fuse itself isnt blown, you could consider using a better quality holder and moving its current location

Fuse holder attached to vehicle fuse bank. Not close to any significant heat I would think

[GameOver]

Fuse holder was originally of greater quality. But used an Audiopipe replacement after it burnt the first time.

[L'Audi]

one of a few things is happening:

your current draw exceeds what your actual power wire/fuse combo can handle.
your connections suck and its arcing.
your wire is corroded in the jacket and its arcing.

[Brian Steele]

Looks like the connection of the power cable to the fuse holder went "ohmic". Basically resistance increase to the point that there was a noticeable voltage drop (and corresponding power dissipation) across the connection. This tends to escalate until it reaches the point shown in the image.

I moved from using fuses to using circuit breakers a long time ago, partly for this reason (the circuit breakers tend to have screw-down terminals, which in turn tend to require a proper crimped/.soldered ring connector on the power cable = less possibility of going ohmic). I also switched to using class D amps for bass, as the current draw is less (they are more efficient).

You can minimize the risk of one of those fuse holders going ohmic by ensuring that the cable is properly secured where it enters the fuse holder (no free-hanging cable to wag around every time you turn a corner or go over a bump), and that the joint is airtight (minimizing oxidation). But sometimes it's just best to go with a solution that involves the use of a more secure and sturdy connection.

[Rovin]

fairly common with AGU\glass type fuses & holders

this is why i always try to sell my customers mini ANL types which fastens way more securely

its advisable to properly strap\secure ur fuse holders & not have them loose where they can be shaken when ur vehicle is moving about

also a good idea to occasionally check up on ur fuse holders too .....

[Zetski]

Get a stinger mini anl fuseholder or any other quality anl fuseholder.. i been using the same one for years excellent quality.. no corrosion or anything.. looks the same as the day I bought it.

[fatboy slim]

^^stinger fuse holders are awesome and affordable^^

http://steveselectronics.biz/1new/produ ... 0&dics=117

[GameOver]

^^stinger fuse holders are awesome and affordable^^

http://steveselectronics.biz/1new/produ ... 0&dics=117

This is the fuse holder I initially had tho...

[GameOver]

Thanks for the responses ppl. That “ohmic” term is new to me. Going to research this and other diagnoses

[ruffneck_12]

What kind of wire you using?
cheap wire ent? It tends to corrode and increase in resistance (become ohmic).

power = current squared multiplied by the resistance.
http://www.sengpielaudio.com/FormulaWhe ... ronics.gif

So if the resistance increases, the amount of power that small piece of wire has to dissipate increases and is given off as heat. (and sometimes light if it's glowing red).


Change out those power wires before the whole length of wire corrodes and burns up. Skimp on RCAs if you have to, never skimp on power wire (or speaker wire if it's a large system)

[GameOver]

What kind of wire you using?
cheap wire ent? It tends to corrode and increase in resistance (become ohmic).

power = current squared multiplied by the resistance.
http://www.sengpielaudio.com/FormulaWhe ... ronics.gif

So if the resistance increases, the amount of power that small piece of wire has to dissipate increases and is given off as heat. (and sometimes light if it's glowing red).


Change out those power wires before the whole length of wire corrodes and burns up. Skimp on RCAs if you have to, never skimp on power wire (or speaker wire if it's a large system)

Thanks for the feedback but cheap wire was not used. Wire was also checked for corrosion and oxidization but there were no indications of either.

[adnj]

At 90 amps, you may want to consider using a fusible link instead of a circuit breaker or glass fuse.

For a 4 ga go down 2 sizes to an 8 ga link. The link holder is soldered into the wire on the supply side and covered with heat shrink.

I would not rely on a high current connection that lacks solder.

If you don't believe that service will be needed, you can go old school and skip the holder and just use a wire of the same type (alloy, stranding and insulation) directly soldered onto the wire that requires protection.

[ruffneck_12]

damn

And you said you used a stinger fuse holder previously which had the same issue. Which is a pretty good quality product

So the only other variable is maybe a chemical cleaner you're using that's corroding the exposed metal contact surfaces maybe. Or Corrosion due to dissimilar metals touching each other (galvanic corrosion).

Do you visit beaches often? Could be corrosion due to sea blast too maybe.


OR
Could be the installer is stripping out too much of the wire leaving just a tiny bit to transfer all the power at the point of termination