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nervewrecker wrote:Heat shrink kit purchased from allied industrial, my next home
I put a little silicone on it prior to heat shrinking it. Helps with an air tight seal
nervewrecker wrote:And now I have a cold solder on the amp. One channel not playing
Anyhow, did some work today, primed the metal
gave the baffles a second coat of resin and sprayed it with some underbody coating.
test fitted them before.
Trimmed the upholstery but I am weary about these. For some odd reason I feel they will hit the upholstery.
added a bit of foam insulation tape that HVAC techs use as a seal.
Woofers mounted
Thanks, will do them over.adopson wrote:nervewrecker wrote:Heat shrink kit purchased from allied industrial, my next home
I put a little silicone on it prior to heat shrinking it. Helps with an air tight seal
Silicone is salt based and area will end up rusting due to moisture build up! You should have used white lithium grease
adopson wrote:nervewrecker wrote:
I put a little silicone on it prior to heat shrinking it. Helps with an air tight seal
Silicone is salt based and area will end up rusting due to moisture build up! You should have used white lithium grease
You might find it an electrical supply store.kavaninho wrote:There's a heat shrink tubing that we use with glue on the inside which melts and oozes out when the heat is applied. Have to order online though, kinda pricey.
Dual-wall is used in any application where you want to slow fluid ingress or have a thicker wall for protection like on a sonically spliced cable. It is also required by code when splicing direct-bury electrical cable.X_Factor wrote:I know self adhesive heat shrink is used mainly for marine applications where they have to deal with moisture and salt
isnt it a bit overkill for basic speaker termination?
once a decent quality wire was used and crimp/ solder done well the regular heat shrink wont work?
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