Small everyday system

[casper]

Amps - JL audio





Subwoofer - 8" b2 audio cc8







Mids - soundstream 6.5" coaxial (built in compression driver)



Head unit - alpine cde149bt

[casper]

Simple tagging of the RCAs for easy identification for later on in the install

[casper]

Next up.....some serious sound deadening...20 sheets of 18x32 db link buzzmat

[casper]

Big 3 upgrade


Cable making time...used pure copper 0g welding cable and 100% copper closed end lugs















^^^ground to engine block



^^^^positive from alt to battery



^^^ from negative battery to chassis



Completed and cabling loom applied to maintain OEM look at the battery itself

[casper]

Door skins removed





Measured





Perfect fits



Closer Pic of inside the door shell





Traced the shape of the door and also any important areas that needed cutting too with a black sharpie



Used a utility blade and cut out the door shape and the holes that I sketched



Nice neat piece of mat with cut outs



Completed back door



Completed front door

[casper]

Prepped speaker wires with wire ferrules applied for better connection to amps

[Ted_v2]

whoaa

[casper]

not sure if to use a dsp or not

[VexXx Dogg]

Big 3 upgrade looks incredible

[blacks]

Nice work

[casper]

Thanks for the feedback...pics added with the sound deadining

[nervewrecker]

Ah yes, tuner feeling like tuner again!

Things taking place and things being done proper!

ICE meet soon come..

[nervewrecker]

4 build thread in a row yes

[X_Factor]

u used a hydraulic crimping tool for those 0 g lugs?

also refreshing to see PET expandable braiding and heat shrink

[nervewrecker]

Yup, he bought one iirc..

I have a coworker with one. Checking him to do mines if I am doing them over.

[casper]

u used a hydraulic crimping tool for those 0 g lugs?

also refreshing to see PET expandable braiding and heat shrink

Yes @ hydraulic crimped used.

I real OCD so heatshrink, techflex, and tessa tapes are my bestest friends lol....taking my time and do this as I just working piece by piece on it whenever I get free time

Uploaded more pics of speaker wires prepped with wire ferrules btw

Check it out

[nervewrecker]

Loving it.

[X_Factor]

I didnt have access to ferrules so I improvised with this
I used the male ends

received_1840888122633167.jpeg (20.88 KiB) Viewed 6855 times

[casper]

I didnt have access to ferrules so I improvised with this
I used the male ends

received_1840888122633167.jpeg

Lovely! Anything to improve on connection or conductivity and u on the right path...where u got those btw?

[X_Factor]

wire ferrules are the sheit
say goodbye to frayed wire ends

u use ferrules on the 4/0g as well?
wanna see pics of that

[casper]

wire ferrules are the sheit
say goodbye to frayed wire ends

u use ferrules on the 4/0g as well?
wanna see pics of that

Sure do!!...Here ya go

[casper]

Oh damn now seeing you said 4/0 and not 4g...Shux lol

[adnj]

u used a hydraulic crimping tool for those 0 g lugs?

also refreshing to see PET expandable braiding and heat shrink

Yes @ hydraulic crimped used.

I real OCD so heatshrink, techflex, and tessa tapes are my bestest friends lol....taking my time and do this as I just working piece by piece on it whenever I get free time

Uploaded more pics of speaker wires prepped with wire ferrules btw

Check it out

Very neat installation.

You may never see a failure but your engine compartment power cable terminal should be gastight to prevent liquid intrusion.

Moisture can wick under the heat shrink and corrode the wiring of the cable.

Typically, engine compartment terminations use crimp-then-solder or just solder. Only use rosin core solder. Use dual-wall heat shrink instead of plain heat shrink and put it on just as you did. The dual-wall has an adhesive that seals the lug to the casing of the cable.

I'm curious to know why you aren't building your own audio harnesses (assuming that the ones that you posted were manufactured).

[Morpheus]

Nice!

[VexXx Dogg]

Local wire porn yes.

[casper]

u used a hydraulic crimping tool for those 0 g lugs?

also refreshing to see PET expandable braiding and heat shrink

Yes @ hydraulic crimped used.

I real OCD so heatshrink, techflex, and tessa tapes are my bestest friends lol....taking my time and do this as I just working piece by piece on it whenever I get free time

Uploaded more pics of speaker wires prepped with wire ferrules btw

Check it out

Very neat installation.

You may never see a failure but your engine compartment power cable terminal should be gastight to prevent liquid intrusion.

Moisture can wick under the heat shrink and corrode the wiring of the cable.

Typically, engine compartment terminations use crimp-then-solder or just solder. Only use rosin core solder. Use dual-wall heat shrink instead of plain heat shrink and put it on just as you did. The dual-wall has an adhesive that seals the lug to the casing of the cable.

I'm curious to know why you aren't building your own audio harnesses (assuming that the ones that you posted were manufactured).

Thanks for the information...really appreciate ur knowledgeable feedback as I may have missed or overlooked a few things that u pointed out...I tend to only crimp as I believe adding crappy solder to pure copper cable messes with its conductive properties...but I'd look into that solder u mentioned...also not sure where to get dual wall heatshrink.

if u know where has them locally it'd be much appreciated...most audio places don't even carry heat shrink so I usually go to anands in aranguez for mine but they only have black...it's very thick and is 3:1 shrinking ratio but lack of colors get annoying especially if u looking for a customized look...but they have the thickest and toughest heatshrink I've found locally

To answer your question as to why I'm not making my own rcas etc is because once local vendors has good options available, I like to support them. It's nice to be able to have tried what different companies have to offer as well as being able to recommend a product that is readily available for friends and customers to buy

[adnj]

Thanks for the information...really appreciate ur knowledgeable feedback as I may have missed or overlooked a few things that u pointed out...I tend to only crimp as I believe adding crappy solder to pure copper cable messes with its conductive properties...but I'd look into that solder u mentioned...also not sure where to get dual wall heatshrink.

if u know where has them locally it'd be much appreciated...most audio places don't even carry heat shrink so I usually go to anands in aranguez for mine but they only have black...it's very thick and is 3:1 shrinking ratio but lack of colors get annoying especially if u looking for a customized look...but they have the thickest and toughest heatshrink I've found locally

To answer your question as to why I'm not making my own rcas etc is because once local vendors has good options available, I like to support them. It's nice to be able to have tried what different companies have to offer as well as being able to recommend a product that is readily available for friends and customers to buy

If you decide to add solder, use a microtorch and heat the joint until the solder flows. It takes practice but it isn't difficult to get the hang of it.

Dual-wall heat shrink should be available at Anands, Modern, etc. It's required for wet locations so they usually carry it.

If you use colored heat shrink instead of tape for marking your wires, just put the colored heat shrink on top of the protective heat shrink. I prefer using two layers of heat shrink than to try to work with a really thick single layer.

You can also mark or stencil your heat shrink with a paint pen before you put it on.

[nick639v2]

Subbd here too!!! Loving ittt

[ruffneck_12]

Making ICE great again

Some epic work here man

[nervewrecker]

Where you got those ring terminals btw?