Moderator: 3ne2nr Mods
nervewrecker wrote:The tiida is 190A max.
Fuzz alternator is rated for 1500rpm or 2000rpm. Cant remember.
Only in trinidad we have peake ac units as well. Is peake a leading brand here? Do they work as they should?
No, advising him on a better charging system from a reputable person that has great customer service for pre sale and post sale.stark_007 wrote:nervewrecker wrote:The tiida is 190A max.
Fuzz alternator is rated for 1500rpm or 2000rpm. Cant remember.
Only in trinidad we have peake ac units as well. Is peake a leading brand here? Do they work as they should?
So you basically advising OP to spend $2400 to get 40/50 amps difference?
Ted_v2 wrote:the tiida doesnt put out anything close to that rated power on idle.
buy something else purpose built.
If it was, why people still buying alternator for music?stark_007 wrote:Ted_v2 wrote:the tiida doesnt put out anything close to that rated power on idle.
buy something else purpose built.
Did you clamp to verify this?
nervewrecker wrote:No, advising him on a better charging system from a reputable person that has great customer service for pre sale and post sale.stark_007 wrote:nervewrecker wrote:The tiida is 190A max.
Fuzz alternator is rated for 1500rpm or 2000rpm. Cant remember.
Only in trinidad we have peake ac units as well. Is peake a leading brand here? Do they work as they should?
So you basically advising OP to spend $2400 to get 40/50 amps difference?
Would actually revommend another battery as well for lower drawdown.
What kinda current the tiida alternator even puts out? Do you know?
I never implied that.stark_007 wrote:nervewrecker wrote:No, advising him on a better charging system from a reputable person that has great customer service for pre sale and post sale.stark_007 wrote:nervewrecker wrote:The tiida is 190A max.
Fuzz alternator is rated for 1500rpm or 2000rpm. Cant remember.
Only in trinidad we have peake ac units as well. Is peake a leading brand here? Do they work as they should?
So you basically advising OP to spend $2400 to get 40/50 amps difference?
Would actually revommend another battery as well for lower drawdown.
What kinda current the tiida alternator even puts out? Do you know?
So are you implying Rodney Audio & Steves Electronics don't have " great customer service for pre sale and post sale" or are you a sales person for 2lo2flo cause I find your opinions heavily based around that company.
As for the rated amps the Tiida alt outputs I need to figure out an accurate way to clamp it because there is too much gossip and i'd really like to see what the output current is.
Well OP you can start with the battery upfront, that's my 2 cents for now.
Xs power - Fuzz
Northstar - Rodney audio
Stinger - Steves Electronics
Optima - JdmMaster ( also has Xs power and other brands)
Thanks.. i checked the grounds, they were all sanded and the nvx wire was used for that. Could there be anything else?SR wrote:You shouldnt be having those issues on a 3000 rms system even with a 90amp alt and supplimentary battery.
Not sure on the accuracy of a tiida 140amp alt. Depends on which tiida it came out from. The models with the e drive should have the higher rated alt as opposed to the regular tiida. Check the plate on the alt first.
Suggest checking over all wiring connections especially grounding both aftermarket as well as upgrading the oem ground wires.
Thanks. Another strange thing i noticed is a friend of mine with literally the same amps i got, same wire,around 3000rms, same alternator we purchased at the same time, everything same including both of us tuning with the dd1, else i have an xp3000 which is 120ah and he got a single northstar which is 76ah and his voltage reads better. We play the same sound and the notes i go down to 10.9 he is on 12.4 and so on with the same notesadnj wrote:It may help to start looking at the alternator output curves. Different models within the same brand have different outputs based on the alternator shaft speed.
Shaft speed will be the FEAD drive ratio multiplied by engine RPM.
Low RPM/high output alternators may have a lower maximum output but provide more current across the usable range.
High output alternator are nearly always more expensive to manufacture.
All this was done, my vehicle actually smaller than the 1 am comparing it to so the cable is possibly shorter in mine. The two alternator in both vehicles are the same including pully size, what is strange is that he has a smaller battery and everything else same and his voltage is better when under a load, am hitting 10s and he is on 12s playing same sound. He even sound a bit louder than me.adnj wrote:The battery voltage drops while the battery provides power to the amplifier instead of the alternator.
Power dissipation differences could be due to ancillary loads, power cable length, speaker wire size and length, termination resistance, speaker impedance, pulley ratio differences, battery efficiency, and voltage regulator differences.
The easiest way to increase low engine RPM alternator output is to use a smaller alternator pulley to increase to drive ratio and alternator shaft speed. The down side is decreased belt and alternator life for cars driven at high RPMs.
Also, turn off everything that you possibly can while operating the amp at high power output levels.
Jeremy09 wrote:All this was done, my vehicle actually smaller than the 1 am comparing it to so the cable is possibly shorter in mine. The two alternator in both vehicles are the same including pully size, what is strange is that he has a smaller battery and everything else same and his voltage is better when under a load, am hitting 10s and he is on 12s playing same sound. He even sound a bit louder than me.adnj wrote:The battery voltage drops while the battery provides power to the amplifier instead of the alternator.
Power dissipation differences could be due to ancillary loads, power cable length, speaker wire size and length, termination resistance, speaker impedance, pulley ratio differences, battery efficiency, and voltage regulator differences.
The easiest way to increase low engine RPM alternator output is to use a smaller alternator pulley to increase to drive ratio and alternator shaft speed. The down side is decreased belt and alternator life for cars driven at high RPMs.
Also, turn off everything that you possibly can while operating the amp at high power output levels.
It rests at 12.7v but when i go full tilt on really bass sounds it hits 10.9..that was the lowest i saw it hit...he has a toyota fielder and mine is the toyota hatchback but the engine was changed to the 4e engine, not sure if it could be a wiring or regulator issue with the car?adnj wrote:Jeremy09 wrote:All this was done, my vehicle actually smaller than the 1 am comparing it to so the cable is possibly shorter in mine. The two alternator in both vehicles are the same including pully size, what is strange is that he has a smaller battery and everything else same and his voltage is better when under a load, am hitting 10s and he is on 12s playing same sound. He even sound a bit louder than me.adnj wrote:The battery voltage drops while the battery provides power to the amplifier instead of the alternator.
Power dissipation differences could be due to ancillary loads, power cable length, speaker wire size and length, termination resistance, speaker impedance, pulley ratio differences, battery efficiency, and voltage regulator differences.
The easiest way to increase low engine RPM alternator output is to use a smaller alternator pulley to increase to drive ratio and alternator shaft speed. The down side is decreased belt and alternator life for cars driven at high RPMs.
Also, turn off everything that you possibly can while operating the amp at high power output levels.
You are comparing two different vehicles (you stated that they are of different sizes).
You will want to find these for both to compare:
The engine idle speed
The engine pulley size
The quiescent or resting voltages of the battery
The load voltage of each battery
The idle and running load current with the audio system fuse pulled
The load current with audio on.
One of you may have a lower vehicle load, more efficient speakers, better terminations or ground points, lower internal resistance battery, etc.
Thebfact that your battery is dropping below 11 volts points to possible cell damage of your battery also.
We did a clamp... both off us used a 40hz tone at -10db...he got roughly 1100watts and i got around 900watts...adnj wrote:I would suggest using a shunt tester or an AC/DC clamp meter to check the actual outputs and loads and work your back from there before you are forced to buy another battery.
He has a single northstar 76ah battery. I got a single xp3000 120ah battery..both bats rest at 12.8v88sins wrote:this sounding more and more like a regulator problem, or possibly a battery condition issue.
You may want to look at the current flow at the B+ terminal and the alternator output with no audio, when the audio is switched on with no tone and then with tone.Jeremy09 wrote:We did a clamp... both off us used a 40hz tone at -10db...he got roughly 1100watts and i got around 900watts...adnj wrote:I would suggest using a shunt tester or an AC/DC clamp meter to check the actual outputs and loads and work your back from there before you are forced to buy another battery.
Jeremy09 wrote:He has a single northstar 76ah battery. I got a single xp3000 120ah battery..both bats rest at 12.8v88sins wrote:this sounding more and more like a regulator problem, or possibly a battery condition issue.
Return to “I.C.E. / Car Audio Tech”
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 21 guests