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Tida alternator wiring

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Jeremy09
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Tida alternator wiring

Postby Jeremy09 » June 3rd, 2019, 3:09 pm

Hey guys, yes is a tida alternator, before you all start, is just a small upgrade for a small system.
So i have a toyota corolla, i build a small bracket and hooked up the 140amp alt. The car previously had a 90amp, was reading 14.4v and i did a big three upgrade and it started reading 14.5v to 14.6 sometimes...
I replaced it with the tida, the jack in was the same (3pins) and now its reading 14v sometimes 14.1v. I carried the car by an electrician and he cut 1 of the wire and now its reading 14.2v
Is there any way it can be wired to get the 14.4 or they cant?
Also if anyone knows what they put out at idle?
The system totals 2500rms,batteries are redtop optima in front with xs power xp3000 in back, xs power 0awg ofc silver tinned wired for big 3 and run from front to back.

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Ted_v2 » June 3rd, 2019, 9:35 pm

i cant see 14.2volts being a issue.

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby adnj » June 3rd, 2019, 10:54 pm

Amperage varies with shaft speed and that is a function of your idle speed and pulley ratio. You can test your alternator out put with a DC clamp on ammeter or a multimeter with a shunt.

Voltage is set by the regulator. If you want a higher output voltage, you will need a different regulator. Some external regulators are tunable for this reason.

Most automotive batteries do fine with a charge voltage of 13.8 to 14.7 volts but you need to get above 14.1 volts to prevent sulfation.

ARM batteries (like the Optima Red) need about 14.1 as a minimum charge voltage.

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Jeremy09 » June 4th, 2019, 7:11 am

adnj wrote:Amperage varies with shaft speed and that is a function of your idle speed and pulley ratio. You can test your alternator out put with a DC clamp on ammeter or a multimeter with a shunt.

Voltage is set by the regulator. If you want a higher output voltage, you will need a different regulator. Some external regulators are tunable for this reason.

Most automotive batteries do fine with a charge voltage of 13.8 to 14.7 volts but you need to get above 14.1 volts to prevent sulfation.

ARM batteries (like the Optima Red) need about 14.1 as a minimum charge voltage.
Thanks bro... you have any experience with the tiida alt? Could it be wired to do around the 14.5 range?

I pulled out the jack entirely and it read 15v

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby adnj » June 4th, 2019, 8:10 am

Jeremy09 wrote:
adnj wrote:Amperage varies with shaft speed and that is a function of your idle speed and pulley ratio. You can test your alternator out put with a DC clamp on ammeter or a multimeter with a shunt.

Voltage is set by the regulator. If you want a higher output voltage, you will need a different regulator. Some external regulators are tunable for this reason.

Most automotive batteries do fine with a charge voltage of 13.8 to 14.7 volts but you need to get above 14.1 volts to prevent sulfation.

ARM batteries (like the Optima Red) need about 14.1 as a minimum charge voltage.
Thanks bro... you have any experience with the tiida alt? Could it be wired to do around the 14.5 range?

I pulled out the jack entirely and it read 15v


No Tiida experience whatsoever but I have experience with the alternator that this was based on.

As I said earlier, the voltage regulator is integral to the alternator. You will see it bolted onto the inside of the rear housing. You would need to change the entire voltage regulator to adjust the voltage.

It seems to be operating within spec. What you can do is clean all of the terminals in the charge circuit, reseat them properly and see if that helps. You may also want to use a bit of dielectric grease at the each connection including the battery terminals and chassis ground. You can get away with Vaseline in a pinch.

On older vehicles, light corrosion builds up and voltage drops start to show. Most owners don't pay any attention until a warning light comes on.

It's curious to me that a wire was cut. I assume that it was the chassis ground wire. You may have some minor problems causing a small (less than 0.5 volt), floating voltage differential.
Last edited by adnj on June 4th, 2019, 8:10 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Jeremy09 » June 4th, 2019, 8:17 am

adnj wrote:
Jeremy09 wrote:
adnj wrote:Amperage varies with shaft speed and that is a function of your idle speed and pulley ratio. You can test your alternator out put with a DC clamp on ammeter or a multimeter with a shunt.

Voltage is set by the regulator. If you want a higher output voltage, you will need a different regulator. Some external regulators are tunable for this reason.

Most automotive batteries do fine with a charge voltage of 13.8 to 14.7 volts but you need to get above 14.1 volts to prevent sulfation.

ARM batteries (like the Optima Red) need about 14.1 as a minimum charge voltage.
Thanks bro... you have any experience with the tiida alt? Could it be wired to do around the 14.5 range?

I pulled out the jack entirely and it read 15v


As I said earlier, the voltage regulator is integral to the alternator. You will see it bolted onto the rear. You will need to change the entire voltage regulator to adjust the voltage.

It seems to be operating within spec. What you can do is clean the all of the terminals in the charge circuit, reseat them properly and see if that helps. You can also use a bit of dielectric grease at the each connection. You can get away with Vaseline in a pinch.
Yes, i did all the terminal cleaning but the grease...i just dont want it to affect performance nor battery life as i now brought the red top and well the xp3000 is a few months old.

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby adnj » June 4th, 2019, 8:29 am

Also clean the terminations to the chassis.

Check the voltage at idle and at 2500 rpm. If the voltage goes up, you may have an underdriven alternator. You can change to a smaller alternator pulley to increase shaft speed at idle.

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Jeremy09 » June 4th, 2019, 1:59 pm

adnj wrote:Also clean the terminations to the chassis.

Check the voltage at idle and at 2500 rpm. If the voltage goes up, you may have an underdriven alternator. You can change to a smaller alternator pulley to increase shaft speed at idle.
I cleaned the chassis also. It doesn't go up from idle when i rev to 2500rpm, stays on 14.2. Also the pulley on the tiida alt smaller than the 1 that was on the stock toyata.

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby adnj » June 4th, 2019, 3:05 pm

Jeremy09 wrote:
adnj wrote:Also clean the terminations to the chassis.

Check the voltage at idle and at 2500 rpm. If the voltage goes up, you may have an underdriven alternator. You can change to a smaller alternator pulley to increase shaft speed at idle.
I cleaned the chassis also. It doesn't go up from idle when i rev to 2500rpm, stays on 14.2. Also the pulley on the tiida alt smaller than the 1 that was on the stock toyata.


I believe that you posted that you are reading voltage from a cigar lighter meter. You will want to read the voltage at the battery terminal positive terminal (B+) to chassis ground.

If your voltage at the B+ terminal is steady, then the alternator is within spec.

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Jeremy09 » June 4th, 2019, 3:09 pm

adnj wrote:
Jeremy09 wrote:
adnj wrote:Also clean the terminations to the chassis.

Check the voltage at idle and at 2500 rpm. If the voltage goes up, you may have an underdriven alternator. You can change to a smaller alternator pulley to increase shaft speed at idle.
I cleaned the chassis also. It doesn't go up from idle when i rev to 2500rpm, stays on 14.2. Also the pulley on the tiida alt smaller than the 1 that was on the stock toyata.


I believe that you posted that you are reading voltage from a cigar lighter meter. You will want to read the voltage at the battery terminals.
No, thats the other guy. I read my directly from my deafbounce amp on the bass knob. Is says 14.2v and i checked the battery terminal also with a multimeter and it says 14.26v

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Kasey » June 21st, 2019, 10:54 am

I don't believe you have a problem. Just that its slightly less than your stock voltage. When I had my original alt in my van, my voltage (battery terminal) was 14.6v and when I replaced it with a tiida alt, my voltage now reads 14.1v. Maybe its a common with tiida alts. But nevertheless, its fine, and has been working in my van for the past 4 months. I have stock battery, did the big 3 upgrade, and use a 2000watt total RMS sound system daily, with no issues.

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby adnj » June 22nd, 2019, 11:36 am

Kasey wrote:I don't believe you have a problem. Just that its slightly less than your stock voltage. When I had my original alt in my van, my voltage (battery terminal) was 14.6v and when I replaced it with a tiida alt, my voltage now reads 14.1v. Maybe its a common with tiida alts. But nevertheless, its fine, and has been working in my van for the past 4 months. I have stock battery, did the big 3 upgrade, and use a 2000watt total RMS sound system daily, with no issues.


The correct charge voltage for an automotive lead-acid battery is anywhere from 13.8v to 14.7v (2.3v to 2.45v per cell).

The charge voltage will drop to the lower side of the range when the battery is nearly changed. The charge current will drop to near zero, also.

It may be that your battery had less charge when using your original alternator.

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Jeremy09 » June 24th, 2019, 8:39 pm

adnj wrote:
Kasey wrote:I don't believe you have a problem. Just that its slightly less than your stock voltage. When I had my original alt in my van, my voltage (battery terminal) was 14.6v and when I replaced it with a tiida alt, my voltage now reads 14.1v. Maybe its a common with tiida alts. But nevertheless, its fine, and has been working in my van for the past 4 months. I have stock battery, did the big 3 upgrade, and use a 2000watt total RMS sound system daily, with no issues.


The correct charge voltage for an automotive lead-acid battery is anywhere from 13.8v to 14.7v (2.3v to 2.45v per cell).

The charge voltage will drop to the lower side of the range when the battery is nearly changed. The charge current will drop to near zero, also.

It may be that your battery had less charge when using your original alternator.
Funny thing. The guy with the feilder with the same tidda alt reading 14.2v like me with a single northstar 76ah bat running more power than i and he is louder (his amps total 3000plus rms) and my 2700rms system with 2 batteries(redtop and xp3000). And when we play the same sound his voltage reads 13.5v and mine goes down to 12.6v and his alt belt slack lol
Ps we both tuned using the dd1 meter

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Rage Warrior » June 25th, 2019, 12:22 am

You have a battery isolator ?

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby adnj » June 25th, 2019, 1:05 am

Jeremy09 wrote:Funny thing. The guy with the feilder with the same tidda alt reading 14.2v like me with a single northstar 76ah bat running more power than i and he is louder (his amps total 3000plus rms) and my 2700rms system with 2 batteries(redtop and xp3000). And when we play the same sound his voltage reads 13.5v and mine goes down to 12.6v and his alt belt slack lol
Ps we both tuned using the dd1 meter


Dropping to 12.6v at the battery terminals is a definite issue.

If you haven't tested the current along the supply paths then you will only be able to guess at what is actually happening.

Assuming that the idle speeds are the same and the alternator pulley ratios are identical...

The voltage drop below charge threshold (13.5v) means that:
1. The alternator is defective and cannot provide sufficient current, or
2. The batteries have sulfated or corroded plates and cannot hold expected reserve capacity, or
3. Your system has a significantly larger driven load than the other vehicle.

Increased loads are due to poor connections, high resistance cables, mismatched speaker impedance, or less efficient amplifiers.

Sulfated or corroded battery plates are due to age, incorrect charging or deep-cycling of the battery.

Alternator failures are typically due to belt slip, bearing drag, bad windings, failed rectifier diodes, or failed voltage regulator circuitry.

Loss of amplification (loudness) can also be caused by impedance mismatch or excess total impedance.

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Jeremy09 » June 25th, 2019, 8:55 am

adnj wrote:
Jeremy09 wrote:Funny thing. The guy with the feilder with the same tidda alt reading 14.2v like me with a single northstar 76ah bat running more power than i and he is louder (his amps total 3000plus rms) and my 2700rms system with 2 batteries(redtop and xp3000). And when we play the same sound his voltage reads 13.5v and mine goes down to 12.6v and his alt belt slack lol
Ps we both tuned using the dd1 meter


Dropping to 12.6v at the battery terminals is a definite issue.

If you haven't tested the current along the supply paths then you will only be able to guess at what is actually happening.

Assuming that the idle speeds are the same and the alternator pulley ratios are identical...

The voltage drop below charge threshold (13.5v) means that:
1. The alternator is defective and cannot provide sufficient current, or
2. The batteries have sulfated or corroded plates and cannot hold expected reserve capacity, or
3. Your system has a significantly larger driven load than the other vehicle.

Increased loads are due to poor connections, high resistance cables, mismatched speaker impedance, or less efficient amplifiers.

Sulfated or corroded battery plates are due to age, incorrect charging or deep-cycling of the battery.

Alternator failures are typically due to belt slip, bearing drag, bad windings, failed rectifier diodes, or failed voltage regulator circuitry.

Loss of amplification (loudness) can also be caused by impedance mismatch or excess total impedance.
I dont use a battery isolator.
We both run a single 12" sub on a deafbounce 2k. My mids and highs is ran on a nvx 800.4 and his mids alone is on a 800.4 deafbounce and his heights is on 200.2.
We both used the nvx 0awg ofc silver tinned wiring kit to do our run from front to back and our big3. We both use the tiida alternator and we tested our grounds and did a voltage drop test using a fluke mulitimeter by playing a 40hz tone at mid vol and tested alone the runs(the test was good but on music is where i get the big drops). Only difference with our system is the car (he being a feilder and i being a toyota corrolla ae90) and the battery bank(he being northstar 76ah and i having an xp3000 120ah and optima 44ah) both our batteries are less than 6months old and was brought new.
Last edited by Jeremy09 on June 25th, 2019, 8:55 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby nicholasfabulous » June 25th, 2019, 11:09 am

Any wires get hot or anything like that? Find it funny how men run to these tiida alternator and get dissatisfied and then vex

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Jeremy09 » June 25th, 2019, 12:05 pm

nicholasfabulous wrote:Any wires get hot or anything like that? Find it funny how men run to these tiida alternator and get dissatisfied and then vex
Nope. I think that nvx wire was safe with 300plus amps...

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Rage Warrior » June 25th, 2019, 2:48 pm

Disconnect the XS power and start car,make sure voltage good,play music and check for voltage drop. Then switch off car and play music while testing voltage drop. Record results. Then repeat with with XS hooked up and record results. Test at alternator,batteries,amps,ground and fuse blocks and XS terminals. Post it when you done.

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby adnj » June 25th, 2019, 2:53 pm

Jeremy09 wrote:
nicholasfabulous wrote:Any wires get hot or anything like that? Find it funny how men run to these tiida alternator and get dissatisfied and then vex
Nope. I think that nvx wire was safe with 300plus amps...


Voltage drop across a high impedance load at low current can look the same as the voltage drop across a low impedance load at high current. The only difference is that one drains your battery faster than the other.

Do a current flow test of the system.

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Jeremy09 » June 25th, 2019, 3:09 pm

Rage Warrior wrote:Disconnect the XS power and start car,make sure voltage good,play music and check for voltage drop. Then switch off car and play music while testing voltage drop. Record results. Then repeat with with XS hooked up and record results. Test at alternator,batteries,amps,ground and fuse blocks and XS terminals. Post it when you done.
Last weekend we did tests on the grounds and resistance on the block and they read 0.02ohms with the leads on the fluke mulitmeter having a resistance of 0.01. I did my first load test on the xp3000 about 3weeks ago and fuzz said it reads great as i was using the xp3000 as a single primary battery in the rear to start the car. I brought the redtop optima in pricesmart a few days ago and its carded for its first test in 2weeks for the front. I brought down some knuconcepts distribution blocks and while i was waiting for it to reach trini i disconnected the xp3000 and used the redtop solely with no issues. Got the distribution blocks and hooked it up, did some voltage drop test at mid volume playing a 40hz tone, got 14.25v at battery post and 14.13v at the amp.
The only thing i didnt test and well dont know how to test it the tidda alt(reads 14.2 when started) i added in the corolla to replace my stock 90amp.
I have 1 of those in dash epi with the db meter and no matter what elecrical upgrades i do(upgrade alt,add a battery, better wires), i make the same numbers again and again...could there be anything the in car itself that is causing this?

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Rage Warrior » June 25th, 2019, 4:43 pm

So wait,when using 1 battery either XS or Optima did you have any problems like voltage drop that was bad? And did this voltage drop only start when using two batteries together?

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Rage Warrior » June 25th, 2019, 4:44 pm

If you turn on everything in the car except the music and tested you would know if it's the car.

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Jeremy09 » June 25th, 2019, 7:23 pm

Rage Warrior wrote:So wait,when using 1 battery either XS or Optima did you have any problems like voltage drop that was bad? And did this voltage drop only start when using two batteries together?
Both batteries work fine and are hooked up but its like no matter what upgrades i do to electrical the output is the same,even on a meter. When i play music and its under load (like 3 quaters of vol) it drops to 12.5v so on, i friemd of mine has vasically same set up with way less battery bank and his voltage reads 13.6v on the same sounds i read at 12.5v and he is louder,. Not sure if u took a read through the other posts. Ull get an idea of what am trying to fix, or understand

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Rage Warrior » June 25th, 2019, 7:54 pm


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Jeremy09
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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Jeremy09 » June 25th, 2019, 8:17 pm

Rage Warrior wrote:https://youtu.be/APLic9F7ZsA
Thanks. I saw that vid..did that test...

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Rage Warrior » June 25th, 2019, 8:34 pm

You show have played max unclipped volume . You already drop .12 volts at mid volume.
Screenshot_20190625-202616.jpeg

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Jeremy09
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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Jeremy09 » June 25th, 2019, 8:41 pm

Rage Warrior wrote:You show have played max unclipped volume . You already drop .12 volts at mid volume.
Screenshot_20190625-202616.jpeg
No no, at mid volume playing the 40hz i dont clip and i did the voltage drop test at that mid volume getting 14.2v at the battery pole and 14.1v at the amp so thats minimal and good...when i play at max vol where am about to clip i go to 13v and lower

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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Rage Warrior » June 25th, 2019, 9:25 pm

Sorry about all the questions but I have a tiida and not fully installed as yet so this problem could potentially happen to me. Will run about the same rms so I'm just curious. When you say no issues with red top solely, no voltage drop? and also where was your amps getting power from -starting battery(redtop) and now where? XS in the back?Or still starting battery(redtop). Or both running to one terminal block.
Screenshot_20190625-202116.jpeg

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Jeremy09
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Re: Tida alternator wiring

Postby Jeremy09 » June 25th, 2019, 10:02 pm

Rage Warrior wrote:Sorry about all the questions but I have a tiida and not fully installed as yet so this problem could potentially happen to me. Will run about the same rms so I'm just curious. When you say no issues with red top solely, no voltage drop? and also where was your amps getting power from -starting battery(redtop) and now where? XS in the back?Or still starting battery(redtop). Or both running to one terminal block.
Screenshot_20190625-202116.jpeg
I had the system on the xp3000 alone first, then the redtop alone. Now both, works fine, not sure if my tida alt is defected or if there is something with the car itself causing it nor to push out the amps

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